Quantcast
Channel: S T R A V A G A N Z A
Viewing all 3442 articles
Browse latest View live

VICTORIAN KITCHEN - THE RURAL REVOLUTION, FEAST AND FAMINE

$
0
0

"Oats: A grain, which in England is generally given to horses, but in Scotland supports the people."
(Samuel Johnson, A Dictionary of the English Language, 1755)

When Queen Victoria came to the throne in 1837, Britain was in the midst of one of the many transitional periods that were to take place during her reign. Working the land remained one of the most common ways for Britons to earn a living, yet with compulsory education still far off on the horizon, a quarter of the population was living in poverty, with 40 per cent of the country’s wealth owned by 5 per cent of the population. Britain was still feeling the effects of a war that had ended 20 years previously. The Napoleonic Wars had made it impossible to import corn from Europe, resulting in the expansion of British wheat farming and, for the landowner and farmer, an era of advancing progress and affluence.

Corn cultivation was on the increase. There had been huge improvements in machinery and farming implements: fields had been divided into a convenient workable size; drainage had been innovated; roads had been constructed and farm buildings erected. Investments were free-flowing and profits were rising, but for labourers and farm servants rents were rising and bread prices were soaring.

When the Napoleonic conflicts finally ended in 1815, it had been feared that foreign corn imports would lower grain prices, so British landowners appealed to the House of Commons to protect the profits of their farmers. The first of the Corn Laws was introduced stating that no foreign corn would be allowed into Britain until domestic corn reached a price of 80 shillings per quarter. Although landowners benefited from this decree, among the working classes this move was devastating. Artificially high corn prices meant that the bulk of their wages would be spent on bread. With little money left for workers to spend on other goods, manufacturing suffered, workers were laid off and slowly the economy began to decline.

Not to be beaten, the manufacturers and industrialists continued their campaign to extend the right to vote and be better represented in Parliament, gaining a say in the running of the country. A victory of sorts came with the Reform Act of 1832, which extended the right to vote to a large proportion of the industrial merchant classes. The legislation enabled their opinions and grievances to be officially recognised, yet little improvements were seen by the working classes until Prime Minister Robert Peel took up the challenge. Despite strong opposition, Peel considered the objections of the Anti-Corn Law League, the series of poor harvests and outbreaks of social unrest, as well as the Potato Famine then decimating the population of Ireland. Peel agreed that the restrictions on foreign corn imports were causing an unnecessary tax on food and a hindrance to British exports.

Eventually, in June 1846, the Corn Laws were abolished for good. There was initial uncertainty when landowners and agriculturalists believed they would no longer be able to command decent prices for their produce, yet their worries were short-lived and the farming economy continued to thrive. The repeal of the Corn Laws was a watershed moment in British history. After a long period of lucrative farming, the balance of power had gradually begun to shift from the landed gentry to the industrialists. The beginning of the nineteenth century was still dominated by agriculture and manpower, but within 40 years industry would begin to overshadow it.

By the 1870s, Britain was once more undergoing a period of agricultural adversity. There was very little expenditure on land improvement, as interest in farming ventures declined. Rapid growth of factories and industry in the preceding decades meant there were fewer areas available for arable cultivation. The Tithe Commutation Survey estimated that wheat made up 26.8 per cent of the crops grown in England and Wales in 1836. By 1871, the Annual Agricultural Returns saw this figure drop to 23 per cent, with a steady decline to 16 per cent by 1911.

Previously, Britain had depended upon home-grown produce but soon the country was no longer as reliant on its rural economy. The arrival of the railways brought faster transportation, while steam power and new innovations allowed larger scale production. Wheat prices fell rapidly from 55 shillings to 28 shillings a quarter between 1870 and 1890.

The effects of these mammoth changes were felt by everyone – from the lowest paid labourer in a two-room cottage to the wealthiest aristocrat in a stately mansion.

Living off the Land

During the nineteenth century, the Poor Law Commissioners divided parishes into two types. ‘Open’ parishes consisted of villages where houses were owned by small-scale landlords and occupied by many agricultural labourers, while within ‘Close’ parishes, villages were dominated by landlords and ratepayers and tended to exclude the poor, who were viewed as a drain on the local resources. A perfect example of this division is captured in Flora Thompson’s Lark Rise to Candleford, where the labourers living in the small hamlet of Lark Rise take the long daily walk to Candleford, the nearest town, to find work.

The second official census, taken in March 1851, provided a picture of the economic status of mid-Victorian England and Wales. It showed that over 1.4 million people – approximately 23 per cent of working men – were employed on the land as farmers, agricultural labourers, or farm servants. Alongside them were female relatives of the farmers and children under the age of 15, who also had their roles to play. Although their work was not always recorded on the census, they too laboured in the fields, helping with the harvest by following the reapers and binding the sheaves of corn.

The Hon Edward Stanhope investigated the employment of women and children in agriculture in the late 1860s. His observations, submitted to the Royal Commissioners, help us to understand the feelings of labouring country men, who found it difficult to tolerate their wives and daughters working the land, seeing it as a humiliation.

"The woman takes her part in the coarseness of the fields. Her presence is no restraint on language. She becomes in all but sex a man among the men. Those husbands and brothers who have the finest instincts among the labourers, feel it a deep degradation, even when they must submit to it, that their wives and sisters have to work in the fields."

There was a strict hierarchy between the farmer and his workforce, although the distinction between labourer and farm servant was not always well defined. Farm servants were often young boys in their mid-teens or unmarried men, hired at a local fair on a yearly basis, or employed privately through word-of-mouth recommendations. Agricultural labourers and skilled workers, such as shepherds, ploughmen, herdsmen and hedge cutters, were usually married and employed either on a casual basis or as regular workers. When hired, their abilities, previous employment and family circumstances would be taken into account before a wage was offered.

Landowning farmers often found it beneficial to provide rented cottages for their workers. Known as ‘tied housing’, the accommodation was tied to the job and when an employee left, or was no longer required, he and his family had to move out. For the labourer this could be quite a precarious position. Having a roof over their heads deterred them from complaining about poor conditions, ill-treatment or low wages, in case their objections led to their eviction. It was essential for the worker to prove themselves hard-working and indispensable, as there was no guarantee of employment and little security as labourers grew old and infirm. The worker was at the mercy of the good nature and charity of their employer.

Labourers who remained on the same farm or estate for a long period, raised their families and, in turn, a new generation of farm workers, with the tied cottage often passing down to the eldest son upon the death of the labourer. Imbued with the knowledge of farming life from an early age, they became highly-skilled workers who knew the lay of the land and the challenges of nature. Daughters started on the employment ladder as bird scarers and ‘gleaners’, collecting leftover corn and vegetables in the fields after a harvest, before taking on a labouring role or a more skilled position in the dairy as a milkmaid or domestic servant in their employer’s house.

The milk maid would usually milk the cows twice a day. In the morning she would sieve and cool the milk ready to sell, whilst the milk collected during the evening would be used to make butter and cheese. Specific days would be set aside for the long, laborious processes involved in butter and cheese-making, but throughout her working week she would be expected to monitor the welfare of the animals, keep the dairy clean and the milking pails scrubbed and scalded with boiling water ready for the next milking.

A busy farm would often require a domestic known as a ‘maid of all work’. Her day would start at dawn when she prepared the range for cooking. Any other fires within the home were lit, water heated and taken upstairs to enable the family to wash – all before she began the task of organising breakfast. In the morning, soups and stews were prepared for later in the day, whilst her additional list of chores might include scrubbing the kitchen floor, washing the laundry, making beds and mending garments. These women worked as hard as their male counterparts on the farm; their days were long with a constant stream of tasks to be completed before they could contemplate going to bed.

Case Study: The Life of a Victorian Farm Labourer

Warwickshire-born Joseph Arch was the son of a farm labourer. At the age of nine he started work as a bird-scarer on a local smallholding, the first step towards developing his agricultural skills. When he later became a Methodist lay preacher, Joseph acquired a reputation for championing the concerns of the farm labourer. Joseph’s biography vividly recalls how his family was affected by the Corn Laws and the difficulties they faced just to get a simple meal on the table:

It was 1835, the winter of the Repeal of the Corn Laws. I was about nine years old. I well remember eating barley bread, and seeing the tears in my poor mother’s eyes as she cut slices off a loaf … It was a terrible winter ...

There was corn enough for everybody, that was the hard, cruel part of it but those who owned it would not sell it out when it was sorely needed. They kept it back, they locked it up; and all the time the folk were crying out in their extremity for bread … To make as much money as they could, by letting corn rise to famine prices, was all the owners of it cared about. “Make money at any price” was their motto.

Meat was rarely, if ever, to be seen on the labourer’s table; the price was too high for his pocket … In many a household even a morsel of bacon was considered a luxury. Flour was so dear that the cottage loaf was mostly of barley."

The Victorian Vegetable Patch

The nineteenth century domestic cook was constrained by the seasons and the availability of produce grown locally. As a rule, approximately one eighth of an acre (or 20 rods, as the measurement was then known) was expected to feed a family of five. This would provide enough space to grow vegetables – potatoes, cabbages, onions, leeks, carrots, beans and parsnips – with an area set aside to keep a pig, chickens or ducks. Some householders had the luxury of keeping a cow, providing them with milk to make their own butter and cheese.

The extra food grown in the vegetable garden often ensured a family’s survival, so every last inch of space was utilised, with fruit trees trained against the walls of the cottage and small bushes planted on spare patches of land to provide berries.

In the countryside, many families had access to a patch of land surrounding their cottage upon which they could grow food, but plenty of others who lacked this facility, were known as ‘landless labourers’. Parliament was keen to promote allotments among the working classes to solve this problem and the creation of an Allotment Movement was outlined in parliamentary papers and the reports of the Board of Agriculture. The Society for Bettering the Conditions and Increasing the Comforts of the Poor was founded in the late eighteenth century, but the project was slow to gain support. However, after a series of harvest failures and the growth in the number of landless labourers, the early plots provided a model for a larger venture and between 1829 and 1873 England saw one allotment created for every three male agricultural labourers. At the end of this period, over 240,000 allotments had been established, giving these workers the opportunity to feed their families without having to rely on poor relief.

Labourers worked their allotments in the same way any cottager planted his kitchen garden. The principles were also the same used by any farmer, but applied on a much smaller scale, with allotments ranging in size from half a rod to a quarter of an acre. A great deal of thought was given to the type of produce grown, whether planting mainstay vegetables such as potatoes, onions, carrots, cabbages and kale or training climbers like broad beans up against a wall or bordering hedgerow.

With the main part of an allotment devoted to a system of regularly rotated kitchen crops, much emphasis was put upon the preparation and the type of manure used to ensure a successful harvest. The Victorians were keen recyclers. An article in Mrs Beeton’s All About Gardening (1871) advised: ‘The droppings of cattle, sheep, pigs, and all house sewage, should be collected and saved, and mixed with rather more than the same quantity of garden soil: the application of a little quicklime will remove any offensive smell’.

Many local varieties of vegetables were grown in allotments and cottage gardens. Types of peas, for instance, included Emperor, Bishop’s Long Pod and Blue Imperials – although not everyone chose to grow peas, as the harvest was small for the amount of room required to grow them. Silver Globe onions, Kirk’s Kidney potatoes, early Dutch turnips, Ragged Jack Kale and Colewort cabbages were also highly rated. Herbs – considered essential to add to stocks, stews and soups as well as providing medicinal relief – could be grown in any small corner. Rhubarb was easy to cultivate and provided a plentiful harvest, whilst those with sufficient room might decide to plant fruit trees or bushes. The choice of apples at this time was endless, from the Blenheim Orange to the Kerry Pippin. Greengage and Victoria plums were popular along with Kentish cherries, Lancashire Hero gooseberries and Falstaff raspberries.

Where possible, crops were rotated on a yearly cycle to ensure high yields, and planning was needed to decide where specific varieties would flourish; some crops required shelter from frost, whilst others benefited from being planted in a sunny position. Just like the farmer, the country cottager and allotment-holder was at the mercy of the seasons and needed to ensure that the best use was made of their land to enable a wide selection of produce to be harvested throughout the year.

Whilst crops such as radishes and lettuce could be grown in a matter of weeks, others took months to reach maturity. No sooner had the onions been grown, dried, and taken into the kitchen ready to be used, than the patch of land in which they had been raised would be dug over and replaced with a different crop. Certain flowers, such as marigolds and lavender, were planted in-between each variety, not only to look pretty, but also to act as natural pesticides and deter the bugs from eating the crops.

Weather conditions, planting times, harvesting and the benefits of eating certain produce were often dictated by folklore and traditional rhymes passed down within families. Some warned to, ‘Eat leeks in March and wild garlic in May, and all year after physicians may play’, while others forecast, ‘Mist in May, heat in June, makes a harvest come right soon’, or ‘A cold May is kindly, and fills the barn finely’.

In a classic prophesy for the end of the year, all apparently depended upon the direction of the wind:

"If on New Year’s Eve night the wind blow south,
It betokeneth warmth and growth;
If west, much milk, and fishes in the sea;
If north, much cold and storms there will be;
If east, the trees will bear much fruit;
If north-east, flee it, man and brute!"

When harvests were good, the Victorian cottager had an extremely healthy diet, but poor seasons and lack of money could change their fortunes virtually overnight. Even within working class communities there were varying states of existence, and bad harvests could have a devastating effect on individual families. At such times, the humble potato provided a reliable source of sustenance. It was relatively easy to grow, bulked out a meal when there was little or no meat available, and was perfect for baking in the grate, ready to carry out to workers in the fields at lunch time.

The importance of the potato in the diet of working people can be seen in the example of the Irish Potato famine during the 1840s. It is said that Sir Walter Raleigh planted the first potatoes in Ireland on his 40,000 acre estate near Cork, attempting to debunk the myth that they were poisonous. Whatever the truth of this, during the seventeenth century Irish peasants realised the numerous benefits of cultivating the vegetable, from its ability to grow in poor soil to the ease with which it could be stored. It was wholesome and sustaining and soon became an essential part of the Irish diet. Poor families enhanced meals consisting of this staple crop with cabbage, salt or fish.

As growing potato crops in poor soil freed space for more profitable wheat, landowners encouraged their tenants to produce the crop. Potato planting would begin in the spring, usually around St Patrick’s Day, and harvests were reaped in September. July and August were often the lean months when the previous year’s harvest was beginning to run out and workers had to turn to highly priced oats and barley to form the basis of their meals.

Sadly, the Irish dependency on the potato had disastrous results. In September 1845, a major outbreak of potato blight swept through Europe. The plants turned black and curly and soon began to rot. It was later discovered that an airborne fungus, transported from the hulks of ships travelling from North America to England, had swept across the fields of Ireland causing devastation. The fungal spores thrived in the moist conditions, settling on the plants and multiplying to infect thousands of others within days. With their food source literally eliminated overnight, people quickly began to starve.

The famine led to over one million deaths, causing those who could afford to pay for their passage to flee the country in search of a better life in England, Australia, New Zealand, Canada or America. Known as the Irish Diaspora, this mass movement of people meant that the population of Ireland decreased by two million between 1847 and 1851. Today, it is hard to believe that the potato completely changed the face of a nation, but this vegetable once caused a disaster that touched all Victorian Britons.

By Karen Foy in "Life in the Victorian Kitchen", Pen & Sword History, Barnsley, South Yorkshire, UK, 2014, excerpts chapter one. Adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.

LE SAUMON, À CONSOMMER AVEC MODÉRATION

$
0
0

S’il demeure une excellente source d’oméga 3, ce poisson accumule aussi des métaux lourds et des polluants. Des labels de qualité permettent d’identifier les spécimens les plus sains.

Frais, fumé, en sushis ou en filet, le saumon est le poisson préféré des Français, juste devant le cabillaud. Son nom désigne plusieurs espèces, du genre Oncorhyncus, saumons sauvages de l’océan Pacifique ainsi que Salmo salar, le saumon atlantique, variété la plus consommée en Europe. Mais avec la surpêche, les saumons sauvages, qui remontaient les fleuves pour se reproduire en eau douce et dont les plus jeunes migraient vers l’océan pour grandir, se font rares. D’où le recours à l’élevage intensif, la salmoniculture.

En France, au moins 80 % des saumons consommés proviennent de Norvège, d’Écosse et d’Irlande. En 2013, après la diffusion d’un documentaire dénonçant les conditions d’élevage en Norvège, les Français avaient boudé ce poisson. Avant que les ventes de saumon frais ne repartent à la hausse (+ 7 % en mars 2016) selon France Agri-Mer. La consommation française de saumon fumé reste également une des plus importantes d’Europe.

De quoi rassurer les nutritionnistes car ce poisson demeure une excellente source d’oméga 3. Mais tout n’est pas rose dans le saumon. Prédateur situé en haut de la chaîne alimentaire, il est susceptible d’accumuler dans sa graisse des métaux lourds et des polluants organiques persistants (PCB, dioxines) et des pesticides.

Il est riche en oméga 3...

Le saumon est très riche en deux types d’oméga 3 : l'eïcosapentaénoïque (EPA) et le docosahexaénoïque (DHA) dont le précurseur est l’acide alpha-linolénique (ALA). Différentes études soulignent l’intérêt de ces acides gras polyinsaturés à longue chaîne dans la prévention des maladies cardio-vasculaires et la réduction de la mortalité par infarctus du myocarde (1). Ils permettent de fluidifier le sang, prévenir la formation de plaques d’athérome dans les artères, diminuer la pression artérielle et le taux de triglycérides... Ils pourraient également réduire le risque de démences, principalement sous l’action de la DHA qui joue un rôle essentiel dans le fonctionnement du cerveau (2). En stimulant la microcirculation de l’oreille interne, ils prémuniraient même des troubles de l’audition liés à l’âge comme le suggère une étude sur 65 215 femmes, suivies pendant dix-huit ans (3).

... mais les teneurs sont en baisse

Selon la Société Internationale pour l’Étude des Acides Gras et Lipides (Issfal), la consommation hebdomadaire de 3,5 g d’EPA et de DHA protégerait des maladies cardio-vasculaires : 100 g de saumon cuit à la vapeur en apportent 1,21 g. Globalement, les poissons d’élevage sont plus gras que les sauvages qui se dépensent davantage mais leur teneur en oméga 3 tend à diminuer. Autrefois nourris avec des protéines et huiles de poissons, ils mangent désormais 70 % d’aliments d’origine végétale.

Résultat : le taux d’oméga 3 des saumons d’élevage écossais est passé de 2,7 g à 1,4 g pour 100 g de chair entre 2006 et 2015 (4). « Ce taux reste cependant sensiblement supérieur à celui du saumon sauvage », souligne Marc Vandeputte, coordinateur des recherches piscicoles à l’Inra.

Sauvage ou d’élevage, pas plus d’une fois par semaine

« On peut manger du saumon sauvage comme du saumon d’élevage car si on trouve plus de mercure dans le premier, il y a plus d’intrants et d’antibiotiques dans le second, affirme Charlotte Crastilleur, directrice adjointe à la direction de l’évaluation des risques à l’Agence Nationale de Sécurité Alimentaire (Anses). Mais dans les deux cas, les taux de contamination sont inférieurs aux doses maximales autorisées et les bénéfices apportés par les oméga 3 restent supérieurs aux risques. » Néanmoins, afin de maintenir un bon apport en acides gras essentiels tout en limitant l’exposition à des toxiques, l’Anses recommande de ne consommer du poisson que deux fois par semaine en alternant un poisson gras comme le saumon (ou le maquereau) avec un poisson maigre (5).

Se fier à certains labels

Le Label Rouge, attribué par le Ministère de l’Agriculture, garantit que le saumon est de qualité supérieure. Le saumon écossais a été le premier a en bénéficier. Les consommateurs, qui veulent s’assurer d’un impact environnemental réduit des élevages, peuvent se référer au nouveau label français Pêche Durable.

Attention : le label bio n’est pas exempt de polluants. Dans une enquête de décembre 2016, le mensuel 60 Millions de consommateurs a retrouvé quatre résidus de pesticides, interdits depuis longtemps, dans des pavés de saumon bio frais de Norvège et d’Irlande, en quantité plus importantes que dans les saumons conventionnels (6). En cause, leur alimentation davantage à base de farines et huiles provenant de poissons sauvages. En revanche, il y a moins de toxiques dans les saumons fumés dont les tissus graisseux ont été retirés.

Varier les préparations pour éviter les calories.

La chair du saumon fournit de bonnes quantités de protéines, de vitamines D, A, B parmi laquelle la vitamine B12, indispensable au bon développement du système nerveux, des minéraux et des oligoéléments (phosphore, potassium, sélénium, iode, cuivre, fer, zinc...). Mais, en fonction des préparations, le saumon peut être plus calorique qu’il n’y paraît : si 100 g de saumon cru d’élevage fournissent 181 kcal, compter 231 kcal pour la même quantité de rillettes de saumon, 237 kcal pour le carpaccio, et 265 kcal pour 100 g de sandwich au saumon fumé avec du beurre, plus qu’une brochette de boeuf du même poids (7).

Attention au surplus de sel

Les teneurs en sodium du saumon fumé peuvent parfois atteindre 1,9 g pour 100 g, soit près de 5 g de sel, dose journalière maximale recommandée par l’Organisation Mondiale de la Santé pour prévenir l’hypertension artérielle et les maladies cardio-vasculaires. Modération aussi avec les sushis, surtout en cas de diabète : le riz blanc cuit qui accompagne le saumon cru a un indice glycémique élevé, et augmente le taux de glucose dans le sang.

Notes

1) A quantitive analysis of fish consumption and coronary heart disease mortality, Konig A. et al, American Journal of Preventive Medecine, 2005.

(2) The pleiotropic effects of omega-3 docosahexaenoic acid and the allsmarks of alzheimer’s disease, Belkouch M. et al, Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, 2016.

(3) Fish and fatty acid consumption and the risk of hearing loss in women, Curhan G. et al, American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 2014.

(4) Impact of sustainable feeds on omega-3 long-chain fatty acid levels in farmed Atlantic salmon, 2006–2015, Sprague et al, Scientific Reports, 2015.

(5) Poissons et produits de la pêche, synthèse des recommandations Anses, 2013.

(6) Saumon : carton rouge pour le bio, n° 521, 2016.

(7) Tables Ciqual (Anses).

Par Brigitte Bègue dans "Sciences et Avenir", Paris,France,n. 839, janvier 2017, pp.66-67. Adapté et illustré pour être posté par Leopoldo Costa



A VERDADEIRA VIRGEM MARIA

$
0
0

Filha de colonos e membro da classe média, e vivia numa cultura que valorizava as mulheres de pulso firme. Conheça a figura humana por trás da Mãe de Deus.

Contar a vida de Maria de Nazaré usando apenas dados históricos, sem usar os olhos da te, não é uma tarefa trivial. Os primeiros textos cristãos não mostram grande interesse na figura da mãe do Nazareno, limitando-se a falar do papel dela na infância do Messias- e dão a entender, inclusive, que ela não aprovava a transformação do jovem carpinteiro em pregador itinerante.

Mesmo assim, a arqueologia e a análise cuidadosa das narrativas do início da Era Cristã nos ajudam a entender como era ser Maria. Ou seja: conhecer o dia a dia de uma camponesa judia de 2 mil anos atrás. O rosto que podemos esboçar com base nesses dados mostra quem ela pode ter sido antes de virar "Nossa Senhora". quando era apenas uma moça chamada Mariam.

Eu disse "Mariam"? Acontece que essa é a forma mais comum do nome da mãe de Cristo nos textos originais dos Evangelhos (escritos em grego), e provavelmente reflete como ela era conhecida em aramaico, a língua materna dos judeus daquela época. Em hebraico, idioma do Velho Testamento e que não era mais falado no século I , seu nome seria Miriam - como o da irmã do profeta Moisés. Essa é a moça que nós vamos conhecer: a mãe do Yeshua ("Jesus", nas línguas contemporâneas) e mulher do seu Yosef.

O primeiro passo para encontrar Mariam é deixar para trás a grande Jerusalém, o centro religioso, político e econômico da nação judaica quando ela nasceu, e tomar o rumo do Norte. Atravessamos as montanhas da Samaria e chegamos à verdejante Galileia, região onde Maria e sua família passaram a maior parte da vida, segundo os Evangelhos.

O primeiro fato importante a ter em mente em relação à Galileia daquele tempo é que, do ponto de vista dos judeus, provavelmente era uma terra de imigrantes. Ela tinha feito parte do velho Reino de Israel, que vivera seu auge praticamente mil anos antes de Jesus nascer. sob Davi e Salomão. Depois dessa fase gloriosa, o reino rachou por conta de uma guerra civil, e virou pó de vez no século VIII a.C., quando uma série de impérios, a começar pela temida Assíria, ocupou a Galileia, matando um monte de gente, escravizando alguns infelizes e deportando tantos outros.

O resultado é que a Galileia acabou ocupada por grupos pagãos ao longo de séculos. E assim ficou, pelo que sabemos, até o finzinho do século II a.C., quando os judeus recuperaram sua independência política graças aos reis-sacerdotes da família dos Hasmoneus.

Esses sujeitos decidiram que o antigo Reino de Israel precisava ser reconstruído na marra e começaram a invadir - com sucesso - as regiões em volta de Jerusalém que não eram mais judaicas. Uma delas foi justamente a Galileia, que acabou conquistada pelos Hasmoneus um século antes do nascimento de Jesus.

• Alguns pagãos da área foram convertidos à força ao judaísmo, enquanto dezenas de novos assentamentos, agora ocupados por famílias vindas dos arredores de Jerusalém, surgiram na zona rural da Galileia". diz Morten Jensen, da Escola Norueguesa de Teologia.

Os avós ou bisavós de Maria muito provavelmente estavam entre esses colonos. Segundo Jensen, os dados arqueológicos mostram que os novos galileus destruíram os resquícios de paganismo da região - quebrando imagens de deuses. por exemplo - e se puseram a explorar o rico potencial agrícola da Galileia, mais chuvosa e fértil que as áreas próximas de Jerusalém.

Na prática, isso significou o aparecimento de diversas vilas - entre elas, a obscura Nazaré, com uma população entre 500 e 2 mil pessoas, dependendo da estimativa. Nesses assentamentos, a maioria dos colonos judeus tinha de se contentar com casas de paredes de pedra não trabalhada, montadas com pouca ou nenhuma argamassa, de um ou dois cômodos. O teto, plano, era feito com galhos de árvores. argila e, às vezes, folhas secas.

Era comum construir vários desses casebres em torno de um pátio central sem cobertura, relativamente grande. É que, como as casas eram pequenas e escuras, as pessoas passavam a maior parte do tempo ao ar livre nesse pátio as mulheres assando pão (semelhante ao atual pão sírio), cuidando das crianças ou fiando lã, os homens entretidos em seus oficios ou usando traquitanas manuais para produzir vinho e azeite. Isso quando a família não possuía ou arrendava um lote de terra no qual plantava trigo e cevada e cuidava de cabras e ovelhas - porcos não havia, por causa das restrições alimentares da lei judaica. De noite, os bichos domésticos eram abrigados num cômodo ao lado dos moradores humanos, no térreo (quando a casa era um sobrado) ou até no mesmo espaço.

A Galileia recém-conquistada pelos judeus parece ter passado por uma fase de relativo dinamismo econômico. Além dos novos assentamentos, temos sinais de um bom comércio de vinho e azeite, muitas oficinas de oleiros, fabricantes de artigos de vidro, tecelões que trabalhavam com lã e com linho, fabricantes de esteiras e pesca comercial no mar da Galileia - que não é bem um mar, mas um grande lago, com 60 quilômetros de circunferência. Nazaré, porém, talvez tenha ficado meio à margem desse processo: por enquanto, os arqueólogos só acharam sinais de atividade agrícola na vila, além de um sistema para produzir vinho.

É difícil dizer quando exatamente Maria e José nasceram, mas dá para fazer algumas contas com base nos relatos sobre o nascimento de Jesus no Novo Testamento. Curiosamente, Jesus veio ao mundo "antes de Cristo" (houve um erro de cálculo quando nosso calendário foi criado), pouco tempo antes da morte de Herodes, o Grande, rei judeu falecido em 4 a.C. Por outro lado, era comum que as jovens de então se casassem logo depois da puberdade (em torno dos 13 ou 14 anos). Arredondando, portanto, Maria teria nascido por volta de 20 a.C. A tradição cristã diz que seus pais se chamavam Joaquim e Ana, mas esses nomes vêm do Protoevangelho de Tiago, um texto que não consta da Bíblia e é considerado pouco confiável do ponto de vista histórico.

A arte religiosa costuma retratar José, por sua vez, como um senhor já grisalho na época do nascimento de Jesus. Embora homens mais velhos de fato se casassem com adolescentes, as uniões entre dois jovens também eram comuns.

O casamento, muito provavelmente decidido num acordo entre as famílias dos dois, costumava acontecer em duas etapas. Segundo o historiador americano John P. Meier, da Universidade de Notre Dame e especialista no assunto. havia inicialmente uma espécie de noivado. Passados alguns meses (mais raramente, anos), o noivo levava a noiva para viver com ele.

Antes de casar, Maria não deve ter recebido nenhum tipo de instrução formal. A educação judaica, centrada no estudo das Escrituras, era só para meninos. Por outro lado, o ideal judaico louvava as mulheres de espírito prático, inteligentes e de pulso firme. É o que diz o livro bíblico dos Provérbios: em vez de ficar apenas tricotando roupinhas para os filhos, esperava-se que a mulher aprendesse a negociar (vendendo a lã e o linho que fiava para mercadores) e ajudasse a administrar os bens da família.

Nas sinagogas de então, não havia separação entre homens e mulheres, ao contrário do que muitas vezes ocorre hoje, e as moças provavelmente podiam discutir as leituras bíblicas e debater seu significado entre si e com os homens.

Além de viver num ecossistema amigável às mulheres, Maria provavelmente teve sorte no casamento. José, afinal, até que era um bom partido. O termo grego 'tékton', que designa nos Evangelhos a profissão dele, não significa exatamente "carpinteiro". Está mais próximo de "construtor", um sujeito que podia trabalhar tanto com madeira quanto com pedra e ferro. Isso significa que, se alguém precisava de ajuda especializada para construir sua casinha em Nazaré, provavelmente contratava José e sua equipe. Alguns antigos relatos cristãos dizem ainda que a oficina dele tinha se especializado em fazer peças para carroças e arados. Faz mais sentido, então, pensar em nosso 'tékton' como um membro da classe média, não como um camponês miserável.

Esse era o ambiente em que Maria cresceu e se casou. Mas a história que transformaria essa menina da Galileia em Nossa Senhora provavelmente começou antes de ela ter nascido. Sete séculos antes.

A história da moça que engravida ainda virgem, por obra divina, começa lá pelo ano 740 a.C., e pode ter nascido de um erro de tradução.

Foi nessa época que o profeta !saias de Jerusalém teria previsto o nascimento de um menino especial, num oráculo registrado no livro bíblico que leva o nome do profeta. "Eis que a jovem está grávida", declarou Isaías, "e dará à luz um filho, e dar-lhe-á o nome de Emanuel" - que significa "Deus entre nós", em hebraico.

Vale prestar atenção em dois detalhes. !saias usa o termo hebraico 'almah', "que se refere simplesmente a uma mulher jovem em idade de casar", diz John Meier. Uma 'almah' pode ser virgem' Pode. Mas também pode não ser. O segundo ponto-chave é que, no contexto do livro de Isaías, a profecia sobre o bebê Emanuel é feita para o rei Acaz de Judá, um descendente de David, que está sendo pressionado por seus inimigos. Segundo lsaias, Deus promete que, quando Emanuel ainda for pequeno, os inimigos do rei serão destroçados. Em resumo, a profecia parece falar sobre o presente de Acaz, não de um futuro distante.

Passaram-se os séculos e o livro de Isaías foi traduzido para o grego, o inglês da época. Como correspondente de 'almah', os tradutores escolheram a palavra 'parthenos', cujo significado mais corrente é "virgem". E foi assim que o termo acabou registrado no Evangelho de Mateus, que relembra a profecia do Velho Testamento. Ao relatar que o próprio Espírito Santo engendrou a gestação de Maria, Mateus diz: "Tudo isso aconteceu para que se cumprisse o que o Senhor havia dito pelo profeta: "Eis que a 'parthenos' conceberá". "parthenos"é a forma original, em alfabeto grego, traduzida como "virgem". Começava ai a tradição da Maria Imaculada.

Seja como for, a comparação cuidadosa dos quatro Evangelhos sugere que o nascimento do filho famoso de Maria não foi cheio de viagens perigosas e reviravoltas cinematográficas. como acabaria registrado no imaginário popular. Primeiro, só os textos de Mateus e Lucas narram a concepção e a infância de Jesus (os outros dois evangelistas, Marcos, o mais antigo, e João, o último a escrever, não tocam no assunto). Em segundo lugar, a maioria dos detalhes dos chamados "evangelhos da infância" de Mateus e Lucas não bate.

Mateus é o único texto que menciona os Magos (não "Reis Magos", veja bem- esse termo é uma tradição posterior) vindos do Oriente seguindo a estrela do Messias, a tentativa do rei Herodes de assassinar Jesus mandando matar todos os bebês do sexo masculino em Belém e a fuga da família para o Egito. Lucas, por outro lado, é o único evangelista que fala da vinda do anjo Gabriel à casa de Maria para anunciar o nascimento de Cristo, da viagem de Maria e José da Galileia para Belém para se registrar num recenseamento romano, da manjedoura em que o bebê Jesus é colocado e dos pastores que chegam para adorá-lo. Em Lucas, a família não precisa fugir em momento algum, voltando tranquilamente para a Galileia. Mais: Mateus dá a entender que o casal morava originalmente em Belém e só vai para Nazaré depois de voltar do Egito, enquanto Lucas os retrata como nazarenos desde o começo. Resumindo: uma bagunça.

Maria pode ter dado à luz em Belém? Pode, mas Belém era a cidade natal de David, o que dava aos evangelistas um motivo teológico para retratar o nascimento do herdeiro de David lá. Além disso, outros detalhes dos relatos que são exclusivos de cada um deles fazem mais sentido quando são vistos como elementos simbólicos, importantes para a imagem de Jesus que os evangelistas desejavam pintar. Para Mateus, um autor judeu, Jesus é o novo Moisés -e por isso Herodes vira um assassino de bebês, assim como o faraó que tentou matar o maior profeta do judaísmo (o que explica também a importância do Egito na narrativa). Já Lucas vê Jesus como um Messias de toda a humanidade, e próximo dos mais humildes- como os pastores e as mulheres. Talvez seja por isso que ele adota o ponto de vista de Maria em seu "evangelho da infância", enquanto Mateus usa José como protagonista.

O certo é que Maria real, a mulher por trás do mito, criou Jesus em Nazaré (um lugarejo tão insignificante que jamais seria inventado como lugar de origem do Salvador). A questão é saber se o menino é mesmo o único da família, como afirma o dogma católico.

Uma interpretação literal de uma passagem do Evangelho de Marcos dá a entender que Maria teve ao menos sete crianças. Nesse trecho do livro, Jesus, já adulto, ao visitar Nazaré durante sua pregação itinerante, deixa seus conterrâneos boquiabertos com seus discursos. Eles, então, teriam comentado: "Não é este o 'tekton', o filho de Maria, irmão de Tiago, José, Judas e Simão? E as suas irmãs não estão aqui entre nós?". Se você fizer a conta, verá que teríamos aí cinco filhos homens (incluindo Jesus) e ao menos duas mulheres.

Nos primeiros séculos do cristianismo, a ideia de que essas pessoas eram literalmente irmãos de Cristo, filhos de José e Maria, foi contestada por teólogos que defendiam a tese da virgindade perpétua da mãe de Jesus. Para alguns, eles podiam ser fruto de um casamento anterior de José. A interpretação mais influente, porém, é a de São Jerônimo (347 d.C.-420 d.C.), para quem o termo "irmão" designaria primos de Jesus, já que o aramaico e o hebraico muitas vezes usam essa palavra para se referir a graus de parentesco mais distantes, como sobrinho ou primo. Ao traduzir a fala dos habitantes de Nazaré para o grego, Marcos simplesmente teria sido literal demais.

Algumas pistas importantes contradizem a tese do santo, porém. Uma delas é a passagem na qual Maria e os "irmãos" de Jesus vão procurá-lo quando o Nazareno está pregando para uma multidão, e ele retruca: "Quem é minha mãe e meus irmãos? Quem fizer a vontade de Deus, esse é meu irmão, irmã e mãe". A passagem tem um certo clima hostil, dando a impressão de que Maria e sua família não aprovam a vida profética de Jesus, enquanto ele dá o troco distanciando-se deles. (Isso é reforçado por outra passagem na qual os parentes de Jesus, ao saber de seu comportamento, afirmam que ele enlouqueceu.) A questão é que a frase perderia muito de sua força subversiva se Jesus, na verdade, estivesse dizendo "Quem fizer a vontade de Deus, esse é meu primo, minha prima e minha mãe".

Outra evidência vem das cartas de Paulo. Ao se referir a Tiago (lembre-se do nome na lista de "irmãos" de Jesus acima), um dos chefes dos cristãos de Jerusalém após a morte de Jesus, Paulo o chama de "o irmão do Senhor". "De um ponto de vista puramente histórico, o mais provável é que Jesus realmente tenha tido irmãos", conclui John Meier.

Se essa ideia estiver correta, não deve ter sido nada fácil para Maria cuidar de toda essa criançada. E não apenas pelo trabalho que as crianças naturalmente dão, mas também porque, perto da nossa, a vida dos galileus da Antiguidade era ridiculamente frágil. A análise de quase 200 esqueletos de um cemitério da região no período romano e bizantino mostra que ao menos 50% dos enterrados ali morreram antes de chegar à vida adulta, segundo o arqueólogo Jonathan Reed, da Universidade La Verne (EUA). Um exemplo: a chamada Baixa Galileia - área menos montanhosa e mais úmida onde ficava Nazaré - era um ambiente muito propício para os mosquitos transmissores da malária, doença com consequências severas para crianças pequenas, diz Reed. Ou seja, Maria pode ter amargado a perda de filhos, talvez ainda bebês. Não por coincidência, os Evangelhos relatam ao menos dois casos em que Jesus cura moradores da Galileia de febres fortíssimas - possivelmente um sintoma de malária.

Se o clima e a topografia da Baixa Galileia traziam riscos a saúde, as pretensões faraônicas do novo governante da região podem ter jogado a favor da familia de Maria. Trata-sede Herodes Antipas, filho do Herodes que tinha virado personagem de Mateus. Antipas passou a governar a Galileia logo após a morte do pai e por lá ficou até 39 d.C. O "Herodes 2.0" decidiu investir em grandes obras arquitetônicas, a exemplo do pai, e uma delas foi a reconstrução da cidade de Séforis, localizada a uma hora de caminhada de Nazaré. Com casas suntuosas e até um anfiteatro em estilo romano (já que a família de Herodes tinha sido instalada no poder por Roma), é possível que Séforis tenha atraído trabalhadores de toda a Baixa Galileia, incluindo José, Jesus e seus irmãos.

Sim, porque Yeshua passou a peregrinar pelas estradas da Galileia só quando tinha mais ou menos 30 anos - antes disso, trabalhava com o pai, como os próprios textos sagrados indicam. É possivel que José tenha morrido antes do início do ministério público de Jesus, porque ele não aparece nas narrativas sobre o Cristo adulto. Depois de perder o marido, Maria provavelmente se viu sem o primogênito. Tudo indica, afinal, que antes de se tornar profeta Jesus tenha sido discípulo de outro pregador errante, João Batista, aquele que, nos Evangelhos, batiza Jesus.

O batismo de Cristo criou certas dificuldades teológicas para os evangelistas: afinal, se João batizou Jesus, isso não significaria que o Batista é superior ao Nazareno?

A narrativa de Lucas tenta explicar esse fato unindo as origens dos dois profetas: Maria seria parente de lsabel, a mãe de João, e o papel preponderante de Cristo é reconhecido desde a gestação das duas, quando a virgem de Nazaré visita Isabel e João Batista pula de alegria ainda na barriga de sua genitora ao sentir a presença da mãe do Senhor- uma narrativa evidentemente simbólica, feita sob medida para unir as sagas de Jesus e João Batista desde os ventres de suas mães.

As menções a Maria praticamente desaparecem dos Evangelhos quando Jesus deixa Nazaré. O que parece ter acontecido, no entanto. é que ao menos parte da familia de Jesus superou o ceticismo que tinha em relação a ele após sua morte na cruz- a começar por seu irmão Tiago, o lider citado por Paulo. Conhecido como "o justo" por sua devoção aos pobres e a lei religiosa judaica, Tiago se tomou, ao lado dos apóstolos Pedro e João, a principal figura da comunidade cristã de Jerusalém.

E bem possível que Maria tenha passado sua velhice ao lado de Tiago em Jerusalém - o livro dos Atos dos Apóstolos, também escrito por Lucas, diz que ela havia se reunido com os discípulos de Jesus após a ressurreição. Tiago acabaria condenado a morte por apedrejamento pelo Sinédrio, a assembleia da aristocracia judaica, em 62 d.C. - já que os seguidores de Cristo continuavam a ser um incômodo para a elite de Jerusalém.

Se sobreviveu a Tiago, Maria terá morrido com mais de 50 anos. Mas não há como cravar nada. Não há relatos sobre o fim de sua vida nos Evangelhos, embora a tradição cristã, do século IV em diante, tenha afirmado que ela foi levada de corpo e alma para o Paraiso. na chamada " Assunção". Antes mesmo de essa ideia ter sido formulada, porém, Maria já tinha assumido uma dimensão sobre-humana na crença dos antigos cristãos. Assim como Jesus se tornou não apenas o Messias de Israel, mas uma divindade de todos os povos, Maria passou a encarnar aquele que talvez seja o mais poderoso dos instintos humanos: o amor materno.

E não era a primeira vez que a matenidade ganhava status de divindade. As primeiras manifestações religiosas de que se tem noticia já tinham nas "deusas da fertilidade" seu maior objeto de culto. Existem estatuetas de mulheres grávidas feitas há 30 mil anos, uma época em que nós, Homo sapiens. ainda dividíamos o mundo com neandertais. Ainda víamos o Sol e os trovões como deuses, mas desde lá, como indicam essas estátuas, também entendíamos o poder de gerar uma vida como algo transcendental, uma conexão entre o humano e o divino. Mariam, mãe de Yeshua, é só a versão mais recente desse mito - talvez o mais ancestral entre todos os mitos.

Texto de Reinaldo José Lopes publicado em "SuperInteressante", Brasil, edição 370, janeiro 2017, excertos pp.26-35. Adaptado e ilustrado para ser postado por Leopoldo Costa.

THE OFFAL TRADITION

$
0
0

Most of the world has never had a problem with offal. On the contrary, it is at the meaty core of many cultures’ gastronomy. In China’s age-old regional cuisine, offal allows even the poorest to elevate a meal from eating to live to something more choice. Pork blood soup and offal dumplings, or jiaozi, were eaten by night labourers in Kaifeng over 1,000 years ago. Offal-enriched dumplings have long been eaten in both Russia and Turkey. Today the largest market of the United States, a major exporter of offal, is China, for their pork feet, tongue and heart.1 Offal is food for all, adding flavour and texture to the scantiest diet. In the late thirteenth century Marco Polo observed poor people in the province of Carajan in Mongolia eating raw liver straight from the carcass: they ‘cut it small, and put it in a sauce of garlic and spices, and so eat it’.2

The Li-Chi or Book of Rites lists liver as a great delicacy, suitable sustenance for the elderly, and suggests a relation between the freshness of food and good health. Offal, which must be eaten fresh, if not raw, is therefore recommended as a healthy food.

Offal is basic food on the streets of China and at the same time harks back to imperial court cuisine. Pork offal predominates. Intestines and uterus are particularly valued, but the offal of chicken, geese, duck and cattle is also enjoyed. This ancient fast food can be marinated and then cooked in moments. Dishes using pork include liver slices fried with onions or floating in clear broth; pork braised in sweetened soy, or wu xiang, served cold; and deep fried pork intestine, zha fei chang, dipped in fermented tian mian jiang Sichuan sauce. Lo mei are little offal snacks that have become something of a fashion in New York restaurants of late. All parts of the poultry are used, including the feet and the tongue as well as hearts and livers. Several ducks’ tongues are served on a plate, usually fried. A feast of duck’s head, halved and served with tongue alongside it, is a delicacy dating back 600 years to the Ming Dynasty. Chicken’s feet are a popular snack. An American English-language teacher on a boat journey from Shanghai to Texas with a group of Chinese tried to acclimatize herself to this food: ‘Each foot had long, skinny toes, and each toe had a tiny, oval nail on the end. The joints, where the skin wrinkled, looked like human knuckles.’3

Offal dishes vary by region in China, both in preparation methods and in what is available. Shandong excels in seafood offal and tripe dishes, whereas Cantonese cooking places more of an emphasis on pork and beef, and traditionally dog and snake offal. Sichuan cuisine is spicy, seasoned with chilli, cayenne, Sichuan pepper and ginger. A typically hot, spiced stew of pork kidneys, wu gen chang wang, contains blood cakes and tofu, and is said to keep out the cold. Blood tofu, or pin yin, is made from duck’s blood and served with sticky rice. Pork tongue sliced in sesame oil is another typical Sichuan dish in the melee of delicate or robust, hot and spicy or subtly distinct additions to a diet based on rice and noodles. Yet though offal sometimes plays the role of a luxury food in China, Fuchsia Dunlop reflects that chao ji za, for example, is a stir-fried dish of chicken parts that would be thrown away by most European cooks.4

For the inexperienced Westerner, the most off-putting aspect of offal as it is prepared in the East can be its challenging texture. For example, the ancient custom of serving the head of a fish to an honoured guest relies on its being newly killed to keep tender the delicate flesh of the jowls and eyes.5 Fish heads are considered a dish fit for royalty in Thailand, served with caramel sauce.6 Pork kidneys are recognized as being nourishing and the suet fat that surrounds them is considered healthy and easily digestible. For the Chinese pal ate the unusual texture is something to be savoured, setting it apart from the bland food of the West. Crispiness and a certain chewiness might be acceptable but the taste for gristle and things that slip and gloop in the mouth can be hard to acquire.

In South Korea sliced cows’ feet are used for a spicy soup that might once have been made with indigenous buffalo. It is customary to serve guests a drink accompanied by small snacks, and these are traditionally offal, including chicken’s feet and pig skin, ears and kidneys, usually presented on short wooden skewers. Texture is often considered more important than taste.7 A popular dish consists of pork intestines stuffed with spiced noodles. It is kept soft, just holding together, for the experience of its sudden disintegration in the mouth.

In northeastern Thailand and Laos a raw – or almost raw – minced meat dish called lu (larb or larp) is dressed with entrails and the enzyme-rich stomach contents of the animal, which is usually deer. Sometimes the effect can be surprising to the uninitiated:

 ‘It’s very nice, but it’s bitter,’ the young man observed, not knowing that the more bitter the larp the better.
‘Of course it’s bitter. It’s delicious. I especially asked for the di.’ Di was the green liquid which comes from a little sac adjacent to the liver.8

Soup can be a way of eking out small quantities of offal to to add flavour to a starch-based diet, such as in pig’s organ soup, a traditional street food in Singapore. The past French colonial presence in Vietnam has led to fresh baguette sandwiches, or banh mi, stuffed with offal, fresh herbs, ginger and star anise, sometimes with pickled carrot and daikon. Rice porridge with pig offal, cháo lòng, and deep-fried pig intestines are popular street food.

The Japanese, historically a people that have relied on the sea for their survival, favour seafood offal, considering it particularly healthy. Among chimni, or ‘rare taste’ foods, are ankimo (monkfish liver), mefun (pickled liver and other internal organs of a male salmon) and shiokara (finely chopped sea food in a brown sauce made from its pulverized and fermented viscera). Shiokara is a popular snack; bars specializing in this delicacy might offer squid, oyster, shrimp or sea urchin varieties, often accompanied by whisky. Pickled sea cucumber innards, konowata, are prized for their slippery texture, and are known as trepang in Indonesia and balatan in the Philippines.

Offal from mammals, and in particular large animals, was considered unclean in Shinto terms, though today Japanese yakitori bars include beef as well as chicken offal. Cow’s tongue is considered a delicacy. A mixed dish of offal is known in Kansai dialect as horum onyaki, or discarded goods, and thought to be particularly healthy. Beef or pork offal hotpot, motsu nabe, served with ramen, broth and noodles, can include larynx, spleen, birth canal, tongue, uterus, rectum, diaphragm and various bits of cartilage. If grilled on bamboo skewers over charcoal, the offal is served with a fiery mustard. Motsu nabe is best known for containing beef intestines and became less popular after the worldwide BSE outbreak, though a minority continue to seek it out, partly to defy such danger. A desire to shock often influences opulent Japanese cuisine, leading to dishes such as frog heart, still beating, as an expensive and esoteric sushi morsel.

Dinuguan blood sausage or stew (sometimes known as ‘chocolate meat’ because of its rich, dark colour) is a typical Filipino dish that contains pork intestine and ears, served hot and spicy. Indonesian sambal goreng hati is highly spiced with galangal, lime leaves, lemon grass, tamarind and shrimp paste and cooked with brown sugar, and kemiri is beef liver cooked with coconut milk until almost dry. In India and Pakistan, where meat is eaten every part is utilized. Kata-kat is a heavily spiced mixed offal dish usually of goat or chicken, and in the south of India a similar ragout uses pork, known as rakhti. Nepalese chicken gizzards are a highly prized delicacy.

In the Middle East couscous can be infused with offal. A medieval Arab rice dish, Ibriing Majani, is a gargantuan feast of 50 trotters and 20 sheep’s heads.9 Iranian food is rich in sheep offal, with kebabs made of liver, kidney, heart, brains and tongue served as traditional festive treats. Knee joints and sheep’s tongues, known as kale pache, are traditional breakfast fare, and are served with beans and flatbread. Fish eyes – raw, boiled or deep fried – are found in traditional Lebanese and North African cuisine. Sheep intestines can be stuffed with rice. Anissa Helou recalls a Lebanon childhood eating ‘raw liver for breakfast, stuffed tripe and intestines for lunch and fried testicles for dinner’, though even she admits to a reluctance now to experience the rubbery texture of lungs.10 It is the freshness of the meat, still blood-warm, that she remembers most fondly. Lamb brains – fresh, lightly cooked and folded inside flatbread – are fast food, but tripe and intestine, for example, need meticulous preparation, removing veins and vessels. It can be difficult to remove all traces of the meat’s former life, but this echo can become part of the pleasure. Like a strong cheese, it is not the presence of mould that is savoured, but rather a flavoursome hint of decay.

The Balkans, straddling East and West, have a long tradition of whole-animal consumption. The Ottomans introduced shkembe chorba, a thick tripe soup, to Turkey; it is reputed to cure a hangover. In Turkey there are specialist tripe restaurants or i kembeci where you can eat soup late into the night. During the Turkish feast of sacrifice, Kurban Bayrami, ‘tripe soup is made without fail in every home where the ritual of sacrifice has been observed.’11 Barbecued lamb and goat offal is sometimes wrapped in leaves and left in the embers to slow-cook; small intestines are eased over or wrapped around skewers of mixed offal which are then roasted on an open spit. In Greece splinantero is a spleen sausage and kokoretsi uses pluck (heart, liver and lungs). A similar sausage is known as kokoreç in Turkey, which can be served as an Easter dish. Picti is peppered pig’s head brawn and braised calf’s brains are wrapped in vine leaves to keep them moist. Cypriot zalatina brawn includes cracked pork trotters and is prepared with cinnamon bark and chillies, mixed with pork or lamb’s tongue and seas oned with lemon and vinegar.12 In Russia kidneys and tongue are traditionally served braised with gherkins and sweetened with sultanas and almonds. Calf’s head with prune sauce, fried udder and brain patties are mentioned in Elena Molokhovets’s A Gift to Young Housewives (1861). Armenian khash, made from animal feet and other parts, was once a food of the very poor, but is now considered a rare delicacy among the newly wealthy. It is considered to have more caché than, say, yerepouni brain fritters.

The evening meal, or iftar, during the Muslim holy month of Ramadan is a time of family get-togethers and includes simple dishes of cereal, vegetables and fruit enriched with small amounts of meat and offal in particular, though lately these evening meals have become more elaborate.13 The three days at the end of the fasting period, known as Eid, are a time of celebration whose traditional dishes include stewed tripe and liver kebabs, and boulfaf, liver wrapped in caul and grilled. The most renowned offal in North Africa and the Middle East is lamb’s head, casseroled in Algeria as bouzellouf masli. Arto der Haroutunian describes the nostalgic pull of the street hawkers’ ancient cry, selling roasted lamb’s heads.14 He remarks that though they are no longer sold ready cooked, all offal parts are still widely available. Calf or lamb brains have been so long enjoyed that there is a common saying that ‘too much sheep’s brains make you sheepish’. Lamb’s head soup is popular in the Middle East, Asia and the Mediterranean. In the ancient pre-Islamic Berber tradition, harira soup was enriched with liver and gizzards.

Mexican enchilada tortillas can be filled with all manner of offal; antojitos (little cravings), are a popular street food and come in many forms, such as gorditas (little fat ones) and cornmeal pastries stuffed with spicy liver or huaraches, wrapped round pieces of tongue.15 Latin America gives us chinchulines and chitterlings, or tripa gorda, sweetbreads and marinated tongue, and ravioli stuffed with brains. Brazil has roasted offal parts, feijoada with pork trotters, tail and ears, gizzard and stomach stews. The Argentinian asado method of grilling, in which a whole lamb is spreadeagled over an open fire, has been adopted in Brazil, Chile, Paraguay and Uruguay. The achuras (offal) is served first, while it is still tender. In Latin America and the Caribbean mondongo soup is a hearty conflation of bone marrow and hoof jelly with tripe; it originated from the cuisine of African slaves in the Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico. In Venezuela tamarind and cassaba are added, and the dish is said to be so filling that it must be eaten either very early to fuel the day, or late in the evening before dancing. Offal has never fallen from grace in these cultures, and is recognized even in its most modest form for its rarity and flavour.

Elisabeth Luard in The Latin American Kitchen mentions ‘the bits of the pig considered unfit for the master’, which resulted in the Brazilian feijoada stew and fiery Caribbean pepperpot, which was originally offal-based.16 Grenada has a traditional dish of tripe stew with onions and garlic, thought a nourishing food for children, that in Berlin or Paris would more likely be the food of the gastronome.

There are pockets of the developed West where offal is still enjoyed, not because it is fashionable, but because it remains an integral part of food culture, and that connection has never been broken. Some commentators trace a certain reticence towards variety meat-eating to its association with rationing after the Second World War. Yet societies that have kept true to offal have hardly been strangers to periods of famine followed by plenty. It is not so much affluence that has changed attitudes, but class. Thorstein Veblen’s theory of conspicuous consumption in The Theory of the Leisure Class (1899) links status to the ability to be seen to be wasteful. The details of what you eat and how you prepare food are useful indicators of social standing. With the rise of a middle class, what people eat becomes a way of separating themselves from the lower orders – and the fact that offal is inexpensive and uses all parts of the animal associates it with lower-status living.

Notes

1 USDA tracks offal exports to China, including Hong Kong, in 2001 as being 59 million worth in red meat offal; 135 million in poultry paws (which are the feet minus the spurs); and 41 million in poultry offal, these figures mounting steadily to 2011. Since 2008, China has even rivalled exports to Mexico, and in 2010 32 per cent of all US pork variety meats were exported to China. Most liver exports still go to Russia. (Global Trade Information Service, 2011).
2 Marco Polo, and Henry Yule, trans. and ed., The Book of Ser Marco Polo, the Venetian: Concerning the Kingdoms and the Marvels of the East, Book 2, p. 40.
3 Gillian Kendall, Mr Ding’s Chicken Feet (Madison, WI, 2006), p. 116.
4 Fuchsia Dunlop, Shark’s Fin and Sichuan Pepper: A Sweet-Sour Memoir of Eating in China (London, 2008), p. 58.
5 Shizuo Tsuji and M.F.K. Fisher, Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art (1998), p. 259.
6 Penny Van Esterik, Food Culture in Southeast Asia (London, 2008), p. 25.
7 The food writer Tom Parker-Bowles, travelling in Laos on the hunt for foods he found challenging, found that the smell of what he was eating was a significant factor.
8 Khammaan Khonkhai, trans. Gehan Wijeyewardene, The Teachers of Mad Dog Swamp [1978] (Chiang Mai, 1992).
9 Maxime Rodinson et al., Medieval Arab Cookery, trans. Charles Perry (Totnes, 2001), p. 373.
10 Anissa Helou, The Fifth Quarter: An Offal Cookbook (London, 2004), p. 8; Anissa Helou, email to author (14 April 2011).
11 Nevin Halicí (1989) cited in Alan Davidson, The Oxford Companion to Food (Oxford, 1999), p. 808.
12 Tess Mallos, The Complete Middle East Cookbook (London, 1995), p. 105.
13 Abdel-Moneim Said, ‘Wasting Ramadan’ in Al-Ahram, 963 (3–9 September 2009), cites government figures showing the tendency in Egypt for even the poor to overspend on food during Ramadan, by as much as 50–100 per cent of their usual food outlay.
14 Arto der Haroutunian, North African Cookery (London, 2009), p. 183.
15 Sofia Larrinúa-Craxton, The Mexican Mama’s Kitchen (London, 2005).
16 Elisabeth Luard, The Latin American Kitchen (London, 2002).

By Nina Edwards in "Offal - A Global History", Reaktion Books, London, UK, 2013, excerpts chapter 2. Adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.

EXTRATERRESTRIAL ENCOUNTERS - VARGINHA (BRAZIL), 1996

$
0
0

On January 20, 1996, at 01:00 hrs., a farmer outside the prosperous Brazilian city of Varginha was startled to observe a strange vehicle about the size of a small bus hovering some sixteen feet above the ground. The silent, darkened craft appeared to have sustained damage to its fuselage and spewed smoke as it moved away slowly toward Varginha.

At 08:30 hrs., the Varginha Fire Department received an anonymous phone call regarding the presence of a “bizarre creature” in the Jardim Andere neighborhood. Suspecting a prank, the firemen nonetheless responded to the call and were surprised to find a group of adults and children already hot in pursuit of the “creature,” which was hiding in a gully within a small wooded area. The firemen managed to capture the creature by means of a net, and dragged it out. The civilian onlookers would later inform investigators that the being offered no resistance to its captors, and was placed in a wooden box which was driven away by a truck belonging to the Brazilian Army.

Apparently there was more than one non-human creature on the loose, and a mopup operation had been ordered by the military. Residents of Jardim Andere claimed to have seen platoons in combat gear scouring the area, punctuating their actions with occasional bursts of automatic fire. Two more beings, unceremoniously dumped into bags, were allegedly taken away by the military.

At 15:30 hrs. that same day, the Da Silva sisters, Valquiria and Liliana (ages 14 and 16 respectively) and their friend Katia Xavier, 22, were returning home from work and decided to cut across a field along a street not far from where the Varginha firemen had captured the first creature. As the threesome crossed the field, they suddenly noticed a “man” with bulging blood-red eyes, greasy brown skin, and a bald head with noticeable veins and strange osseous protuberances. The strange mannikin was huddling in fear next to a brick wall, its hands between its legs. Astonishment soon gave way to fear, and the young women broke into a mad dash to reach the safety of their homes.

Exactly twenty-four hours after the presumably crippled UFO hovered over a farm on Varginha’s outskirts, the Brazilian military was in possession of at least three extraterrestrial biological entities (EBEs). At 01:30 hrs., under cover of darkness, Army trucks moved their prized catch to Humanitas Hospital, apparently until the fate of the alien creatures had been determined. UFOlogists on the scene believe the creatures were subjected to a battery of medical tests, and that at least one of them died at the hospital.

On January 22, 1996, the alien bodies were transferred to the refrigerated lab section of the University of Campiñas, where a number of distinguished pathologists would have had access to them. By all accounts, there was a considerable military presence on the campus.

The military’s cover-up unraveled when an Army officer was interviewed on Brazilian television, discussing his role in the operations involving the transfer of the putative aliens to the hospital, where the initial tests were conducted.

But the Varginha story continued long after the initial events: On the evening of April 21, 1996, Teresa Clepf had gone out to dinner at a restaurant located within the confines of the Varginha Zoo. Mrs. Clepf had stepped out onto the restaurant’s covered porch to smoke a cigarette when she noticed a figure moving in the darkness, lighting its way with blood-red eyes. She then returned into the restaurant to collect her thoughts before going out again: the creature was still there, staring back at her.

According to UFOlogist Claudeir Covo, a number of zoo animals died shortly after the creature was reported. Veterinarians at the Varginha Zoo diagnosed the strange deaths as “caustic intoxication,” and discouraged any speculation that the animals may have been infected by an alien disease borne by the creature.

By Scott Corrales in "The Mammoth Encyclopedia of Extraterrestrial Encounters", compiled and edited by Ronald D. Story, Robinson (an imprint of Constable & Robinson Ltd), London, UK, 2012. Adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.

BEEF AND VEAL

$
0
0

Beef always used to be placed ahead of all other meats and by most people may still be. It provides some of the best meat flavor and most satisfying, succulent textures—in a grilled rib-eye (Delmonico) steak, a sirloin strip steak (with its varying North American names), a standing rib roast, braised oxtail, grilled hamburger, pot-au-feu, bœuf bourguignon, and Texas-style barbecued brisket. Since the 1950s, North American beef cattle, after being raised on pasture or range, have been transferred to feedlots to fatten intensively on corn. Under the old American prime grade, the rib eye used to be intermingled with white fat and surrounded by another vast quantity of it. French chefs often used to admire American beef. Fat carries flavor; it’s mainly fat that enables us to tell one kind of meat from another. Marbling tends to make beef taste beefier, it gives an impression of juiciness, and it often coincides with tenderness. Sometimes held up as the model of extreme beef goodness is the highly fatty, very marbled Wagyu beef from Japan, now also produced elsewhere, from cattle fed a very rich diet of grain and sometimes even beer. The four breeds that make Wagyu beef naturally have a high proportion of soft, unsaturated fat. (The meat is also called Kobe beef, which strictly means Wagyu beef produced in Kobe prefecture.) But if all we wanted to eat was fat, we could eat just that and ignore the lean. The fat really acts as a complement to the lean, and some lean cuts—flank steak, skirt steak, and hanger steak, to cite a trio—are highly flavorful, just as very lean game can have too much flavor. And fat isn’t automatically flavorful.

The most delicious beef might be something very different from Wagyu or the old American prime meat. A timeless ideal would be tender beef, with some marbling, but much leaner overall. The cattle would be finished solely on permanent grass in a place with enough rainfall to produce fields or range heavy in nutritious plants. Cattle have stomachs with four compartments so they can digest forage. Pure grain isn’t their natural food, although they tolerate it in moderation. Compared with grain, grass is easier to raise organically and sustainably (it eliminates the North American difficulty of avoiding genetically modified corn). But grass-fed beef is often lean and tough and has been criticized for having strong herbal, even gamy flavors, which professionals call “grassy,” “cowy,” or “milky” because they’re associated with beef from dairy cows rather than beef cattle. Grass-fed beef can be terrible, but sometimes it’s great. And it takes more skill to raise tender, flavorful beef on grass than it does in a feedlot.

North American beef used to taste reliably beefy, but the quality of commodity meat in supermarkets has declined. It doesn’t taste like much, and to me it doesn’t taste healthy. There’s not much reason to care about USDA grades these days, because mass-market beef doesn’t taste good no matter what. A couple of decades ago, the amount of marbling required for each of the old supermarket grades, prime, choice, and good, was reduced. “Good” was renamed “select” to promote leaner meat, and the beef in supermarkets became dramatically leaner. Now growth promotants—hormones and a muscle relaxant called beta2-adrenergic agonist—are given to the cattle to make them grow bigger faster, and they’re given antibiotics to enable them to eat large amounts of corn, these days GMO corn, that would otherwise make them sick. There’s now much more meat per animal, and yet the taste is meager and to me unclean. The age of a cow or steer at slaughter also makes a big difference. A century ago in France, sought-after beef was as much as five and even seven years old. In the US in the 1950s, beef from two-year-old animals was common; now it can be as little as a year old. There’s no ideal, but twenty months might be a minimum for a distinct beefy taste.

Meanwhile, North Americans have been eating less beef. Happily, new butcher shops have been opening across the United States, specializing in meat from particular farms. We’re seeing a revival of careful cutting. Different countries cut their meat differently, sometimes dividing between muscles more precisely than we do in the US and creating many more cuts. In the small new butcher shops, the meat isn’t graded. A customer goes by appearance but mainly on experience with the shop, what it sells, and whatever information is offered about how the meat was raised and handled. Still, we have a long way to go to achieve anything like the varied appellation and Label Rouge meats of France.

Besides the quality of the farming, the breed of cattle makes a difference, although sometimes there’s more difference between individual animals than particular breeds. Some more or less familiar names are Angus, Devon, Galloway, Hereford, Highland, Piemontese, Belgian Blue, Shorthorn, Simmental, Tarentaise, and Texas Longhorn, and I’ve had excellent beef from most of them.

For me and many people the best beef is dry-aged, though wet-aging has been the norm since perhaps the 1970s, when butcher shops and meat counters stopped commonly receiving whole sides or quarters and instead received smaller primal cuts vacuum-sealed in plastic and shipped in cardboard boxes. Any aging takes place during the time between slaughter and retail sale. In just a few days, the meat becomes much more tender, but the changes continue after that and dry-aging can last three weeks or longer. It helps if the sides and quarters literally hang, so the muscles stretch and don’t tighten. Only relatively large pieces protected by fat can be dry-aged; small pieces would dry out. Enzymes produce the tenderness, while a host of other changes heighten flavor. The changes take place faster at higher temperatures, but to avoid too much microbial growth, the meat coolers are usually set at just above freezing. In dry-aging, the meat loses a lot of moisture and weight, and depending on whether humidity is low or high, the surface either hardens or (beneficially) molds, and the outside must be trimmed and discarded. Dry-aged beef tastes nuttier and beefier. But inside the plastic, there’s no loss of moisture and no waste, and some people prefer the taste of wet-aged beef, which is often described as more metallic. Other people prefer very fresh meat; Argentinians, known for their beef, don’t age theirs at all.

Beef begins with a calf, which means veal. The goal in the past was to have the fat and lean of veal as close to white as possible and as tender as possible. The tactics were cruel, including separation from the mother and confinement in crates, and cruel practices continue at some producers. Good veal, like all good meat, results from kind treatment and tends to come from organic and sustainable methods. Ideally, veal is seasonal, raised in the field during the warm months “under the mother,” though outdoor exercise makes the meat a little less tender. The calves consume mostly milk and are slaughtered only when they start to eat a significant amount of grass. The meat is naturally pale, gaining color in proportion to the amount of grass the calves eat. Most of today’s humane “veal,” however, comes from calves that have eaten a high proportion of grass, and their meat is very pink and even red, not far from beef. Calves have been slaughtered as young as six weeks, but they are naturally weaned only when the mother is ready to bear the next calf, which may be nine months or more, and meat up to that point, if the color is light enough, may qualify as veal. Pale perfectionist veal raised “under the mother” is rare—I’m not sure I’ve ever had it.

Veal’s utter blandness keeps it from being one of the great meats. But it’s gratifyingly tender and provides a strong base for added flavors—herbs, onions, other aromatic vegetables; acidity from lemon, wine, or sorrel. A group of dishes, described in English as “veal birds,” are thin scallops surrounding some sort of stuffing. Saltimbocca (though sometimes cooked flat) is one of them: the tender scallop is rolled up with a paper-thin slice of prosciutto and half a sage leaf, browned briefly in butter or olive oil, with white wine added to finish the cooking more gently and provide a sauce. Milanese osso buco, “bone with a hole,” refers to the hind-shank marrowbone and the meat around it. It’s slowly braised to tenderness and served with risotto alla milanese (saffron risotto), along with the sauce it was cooked in (aromatic vegetables, stock, wine, optionally tomato) combined with a sprinkling of gremolata (grated lemon rind, parsley, and garlic). Italian-American veal parmigiana is made by dipping veal scallops in grated cheese, then egg, then breadcrumbs, and frying them, and serving the meat while the surface is crunchy.

Veal seems drier than other meats because there’s no fat in the lean, but compared with them it contains more of the substance collagen, which readily dissolves into gelatin. That and the blandness make veal stock the base of all the classic French sauces for meat. Veal gives excellent sweetbreads and liver. Most calf’s liver in North America is red, but the best is beige-pink. Like chicken liver, it’s fried in fat, often butter, until it’s colored on the surface but no more than medium-rare within, tender, having lost no juices. (The more it’s cooked, the stronger it tastes.)

Increasingly, meat is reduced to retail cuts at the slaughterhouse, which eliminates the need for any skill at the butcher counter. In the United States as a rule, meat on the bone is trimmed with a power saw very close, so a rib roast looks as if it were swelling out of the bones, like a large man in a small suit. Sometimes there’s so little bone that the meat topples over. And the saw leaves a white paste of bone smeared over the surface. The meat of a chop should be cut with a knife and the bone finished with a blow from a cleaver, its thickness being determined by the space between the ribs. Long ago, just before he became for a time the most famous butcher in the world, I visited the shop in Tuscany of Dario Cecchini. It was a gray November day, the shop was empty, and we asked for Chianina steaks (porterhouses, from the region’s Chianina breed). Cecchini brought out a whole intact side of beef and extracted the steaks with a large knife. It was like watching two wrestlers; Cecchini was badly outweighed, but he had the advantage of skill.

Grilling over charcoal or hardwood (the latter gives a lighter taste) is hot and fast—too fast to melt tough connections or penetrate large items—and it gives smoke. (Roasting before a fire, at the front of the hearth, is slower and gives a more refined taste with no more than a hint of smoke.) The cuts of meat for grilling are tender and somewhat thin, so the inside is done before the outside burns.

Most of these tender cuts come from the less-exercised muscles of the back. They start with rib eye and sirloin strip steak (also called shell steak, New York strip, Kansas City strip) and move to other parts of the sirloin, including T-bone and porterhouse steaks. The flat-iron steak, cut from the top blade in the shoulder, is exceptionally tender and highly marbled. Generally I avoid steaks from the flavorful chuck, because some of the mixed muscles are tough and they’re not equally tasty. Flank steak, skirt steak, and hanger steak are all full of flavor but tough; they’re sliced thin so they seem more tender. A collection of smaller pieces, called pièces du boucher in French, never used to be sold on their own in the United States; poire, merlan, and araignée are set apart for special customers in France because there’s only one per side.

With lean grass-fed beef, there’s not enough fat to disguise dry, tough overcooking. Cooking requires close attention and careful use of heat. You begin with high-heat browning and then switch to slow cooking, so the doneness you’re looking for doesn’t slip by. The many cuts of beef run further to the cheek, short ribs, and oxtail, all of them rich in fat and flavor. An oxtail is ideal for braising (and then sometimes it’s cooled, breaded, and slowly grilled). A “pickled” (brined) tongue is one of the best, tastiest pieces of all. There are the several forms of beef tripe, often today made so clean that they taste almost neutral. The strong flavor of beef stock is at home in onion soup and with chicken in a pot-au-feu. Beef kidney fat has often been considered the best for frying (though there are other candidates for that).

One of the best of all beef dishes is bœuf bourguignon, especially when made with oxtail and served with the classic bourguignon garnish of little onions, mushrooms, and lardons. I always marinate the meat in red wine, though I never include raw onion. Half an hour after onions are sliced, their flavor turns crude, even in a marinade. You have to cook or serve them promptly. (It’s not the exposure to air that changes them; it’s breaking the cell walls so that rank sulfur compounds form.) Shallots and chives aren’t as bad, but among alliums only crushed garlic belongs in a marinade.

A pot-au-feu is a fundamental dish of French family cooking; it contains mixed cuts of beef with different textures simmered in a broth of carrots, onion, celery, turnips, leeks, parsnips, and perhaps cabbage. When done, the same big pot gives soup, meat, and vegetables. The soup is served first with toasted bread and, optionally, grated cheese; then come the meat and vegetables, moistened with a little of the remaining liquid and served with potatoes, cooked separately, and with coarse salt, mustard or horseradish, and pickles.

HOW TO BUY BEEF AND VEAL

It’s best to buy beef from the farmer or rancher who raises it, or from one of the small butcher shops specializing in well-raised meats. Such a shop is likely to dry-age its beef for at least a short time. Look for beef that’s at least twenty months old, finished mostly or entirely on grass. Especially in fall, look for pale veal raised outdoors with its mother on pasture.

Fresh meat is ideal, but freezing allows you to buy from a good small producer that doesn’t offer fresh meat. There’s some loss of juice and freshness, and the meat was probably frozen before any aging took place, but much less harm is done by freezing than by overcooking. (According to USDA research, you can thaw a one-inch-thick steak in eleven minutes in water at 102 degrees F, or 39 degrees C, and there’s no more loss of juice or tenderness than if you thawed it for eighteen to twenty hours in a refrigerator.)

COMPLEMENTS TO BEEF AND VEAL

Some of the very many complements to veal are onions, shallots, garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, white wine, Marsala, fresh mushrooms, cream, green peas (which go with cream sauces in general), tomatoes, and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Excellent canned tuna goes with veal in vitello tonnato; saffron risotto and gremolata go with veal in osso buco.

Hot roast beef needs no flavoring apart from salt and pepper; it goes with accompaniments of green beans, root vegetables, and Yorkshire pudding. Cold roast beef goes with mustard, horseradish, and pickled black walnuts. Beef in general is complemented by mushrooms, black pepper, onions, garlic, parsley, anchovies, mustard, tomatoes, walnut oil, and red bell peppers. Steak goes with tarragon in béarnaise sauce; a black-pepper steak (steak au poivre) goes with an old-school sauce of flamed Cognac and cream. Steak goes with creamed spinach, red wine (in a pan sauce), garlic, blue cheese (mixed into butter), and plain butter on lean, unmarbled steak (actually, it’s good even on marbled steak). When braised, beef goes with red wine, prunes, balsamic vinegar (added to the sauce for a braise just before serving), and hints of spice, such as in brasato al Barolo (with its frequent juniper, clove, and cinnamon).

NOTES ON WINE

With the mild flavor of veal, everything depends on the sauce or other accompaniments; many flavorful whites and light reds are possible. Beef almost invariably calls for red wine. (An exception is one of the concentrated Friulian or Slovenian “orange” wines, made from white varieties, which can have enough flavor and acidity to stand up to red meat.) Usually a young red wine goes with a grilled steak, something middle in weight with a braise, and a more mature bottle with roast beef. When grass-fed beef has stronger flavors that seem gamey, it suits the earthier wines often put with game, such as more substantial Burgundy and older Bordeaux, gamier bottlings of Syrah, including Australian Shiraz, traditional red Rioja, and traditional Nebbiolo.

With a grilled steak, choose medium-weight red Burgundy, such as a Volnay or other wine from the Côte de Beaune, or a predominately or entirely Merlot wine, such as Saint-Émilion or Pomerol. Clear oak flavor generally isn’t flattering to food, but a grilled steak holds moderate oak in check. (The old idea was that the char of grilling would hide the bitter tannin of a young Cabernet Sauvignon, so the wine’s fruit would stand out, but red wines with bitter tannin like that are all but extinct. And the survivors are good and special enough that they deserve to be aged.) The sweet-sour component of hamburger with ketchup throws off the balance of a dry wine; go with a simple, fresh fruity red with good acidity and sweet fruit—Beaujolais, a Loire Gamay, Zinfandel.

Roast beef shows off special bottles of older red wine—Bordeaux, Napa Cabernet, Burgundy, Brunello di Montalcino, traditional Rioja, and substantial mature wines from many places. In the face of the more complicated flavors inherent in most braises, especially those made with red wine, a common response is to match strength with strength and serve a big, flavorful red, such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Barolo, or Amarone, but those pairings turn into competitions. Better to let the braise take the lead and choose a moderate-quality, moderate-strength red, such as a Pinot Noir from Burgundy, Sancerre, Jura, or Oregon, or a Syrah from Australia, a Côtes-du-Rhône-Village, Crozes-Hermitage, or Saint-Joseph.

By Edward Behr in "50 Foods - The Essential of Good Taste", The Penguin Press, New York, 2013. Adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.

THE FLAVOR PROFILES OF FOOD TO PAIRING WINES

$
0
0

◆ How cooking changes food’s flavor profiles
◆ How rubs, sauces, and seasonings affect pairings
◆ Picking out a dish’s predominant flavors
◆ Common ingredients and their pairings

Even though we all know how food tastes, there’s more to flavor than meets the tongue. When it comes to pairing food with wine, in addition to an ingredient’s basic taste, you must also consider how it is cooked, seasoned, and combined with other ingredients. Only after you have taken all of these elements into consideration can you even begin to start thinking about what wine to serve with it.

One of the most challenging aspects of pairing food with wine is picking out the predominant flavors of a dish, and then matching those flavors with a wine that will complement them. In an effort to more easily pair foods with wines, we’ve come up with a master list of over 100 ingredients and their perfect pairs.

How Cooking Changes Flavors

While some foods, such as crudités and sushi, can be paired raw, most foods we pair are cooked in some manner. Different methods of cooking impart different flavors, resulting in seemingly endless possibilities for pairing.

Cooking changes not only the texture and temperature of foods, but also their taste. Boiling/poaching, roasting/baking/toasting, frying, grilling, and smoking all lead to vastly different flavor components.

Boiling or poaching has an almost neutral effect on a food’s taste.

It might change the texture, but the overall flavors remain true to the dish’s original ingredients. Think of a boiled potato or a piece of poached chicken, these cooking methods only mildly affect the taste. For boiled or poached foods, you will probably need to pay more attention to the seasonings you add to these dishes instead of how the cooking impacts the flavor of the ingredients.

Roasting and baking both impart another layer of flavor and complexity. They enhance or intensify flavors. Think of a baked or roasted potato, the potato’s skin gets a little crispier, perhaps a bit caramelized, and the potato itself becomes a little sweeter. For roasting or baking, you will probably want a wine that has been aged in neutral oak to match the intensity of the cooking method.

Toasting or browning foods adds secondary flavors and complexity. You add sweetness, but also a bit of charring. For pairing, you’ll want to go with a wine that has been aged in oak.

Grilling adds even more depth and complexity than toasting, calling for a wine with a heavier body and more intense aromas. Pairing grilled foods with a wine that has been aged in new oak or charred oak barrels will mimic the flavor of the grilling, because the oak adds body, weight, and tannins to the wine.

Smoking foods concentrates flavors even more so than grilling. It adds complexity, sweetness, and intensity. Pair smoked foods with a wine that has a heavier body and more tannin to stand up to that smoke flavor. A wine with a smoky aroma, which usually comes from aging in charred oak barrels or its terroir, will also help in these pairings.

Frying not only alters the original food’s flavor but also adds fat to the dish; additionally, the oils used to fry the food add even more flavor. Different oils impart different flavors, too. Take french fries: If you cook them in duck fat, you’ll want a wine that has more body, such as a lightly oaked Chardonnay; but if you cook them in corn oil, a simple Pinot Gris will do just fine. When pairing with fried foods, you also might want to consider a wine that has enough acidity to cut through that fat or something with bubbles.

Perfect Pairings

Certain terroirs, like South Africa and South America, offer wines that have smokier, more intense aromas. This makes their wines a good fit with more intense, smoky dishes.

How to Examine Basic Ingredients

Most of us know what foods taste like, but that doesn’t mean we know how to pair those tastes with wine. Here are some simple things to keep in mind when looking at fruits, vegetables, cheeses/dairy products, seafood/fish, poultry, and meats.

With fruits, keep in mind their degree of sweetness and the amount of acidity. Both sweetness and acidity amounts can change depending on how the fruit is prepared. Think of fresh strawberries versus strawberry jam. The jam contains less acidity, but it is sweeter than the fresh berries. When pairing fruits with wine, you want to match their levels of acidity. With an acidic fruit dish, a wine with only light acidity will get lost and pair up poorly.

With vegetables, consider the starch content and bitterness. Think of jicama versus celery, or arugula versus butter lettuce.

With very starchy vegetables, acidity is important in choosing a wine to pair. Pair starchy veggies with wines that have a crisp acidity to contrast.

With vegetables that have a degree of bitterness, steer clear of tannic wines. Tannic wines and bitter veggies equal a bad, mouth-puckering experience. In this case, pair opposites. Pair bitter veggies with light wines.

Perfect Pairings

Match a bitter vegetable, like arugula, with a light, crisp wine like Sauvignon Blanc. Not only will its herbaceous aromas play well with the arugula, its acid content will help neutralize the arugula’s bitterness. It’s a delightful matchup.

With cheeses and dairy products, consider the intensity. Aged and blue cheeses can stand up to stronger wines, while fresh and mild cheeses will be overwhelmed by heavier wines. Wines with acidity can cut through the fat and richness of both cheeses and cream sauces. Sweeter wines tend to pair better with cheeses in general; and white wines, overall, work better with cheeses than red wines.

Perfect Pairings

If you absolutely must pair a red wine with a more delicate cheese, grate a little fresh pepper on top of the cheese. The pepper will tie the cheese and the wine together, and it will prevent the tannins from clashing with the cheese.

Seafood, fish, and poultry all usually offer more neutral flavors and serve more as a canvas for the seasoning or preparation methods. Pair them according to their seasonings or how they were prepared.

Meats contain more fat and more intensity, both of which need to be considered when pairing. Tannic wines tend to pair well with meats, as do more complex wines in general. How the meat was raised can also affect the pairing. Pasture-grazed versus corn-fed makes a difference in the pairing. Pasture grazing results in richer, more intense flavors, which means the wine needs to be richer or more intense.

The quality of the food, whether it is fruit or meat, also plays a role. Higher-quality foods tend to have more intense flavors. This can be particularly true when choosing local produce. A fresh berry, harvested at the peak of summer, offers fresher, sweeter, more intense flavors than one flown in from South America and ripened in a truck. As a result, you will need to pair local foods with more intense wines.

Fine or rare ingredients—whether imported or domestic—can also change a dish. Certain, canned tunas imported from Spain or Italy, for example are a lot more flavorful than the grocery store varieties. You need to be aware of your ingredients’ properties when pairing.

Rubbing in Flavor

Rubs and seasonings both change the flavors of food and most definitely affect pairings. Rubs often impart more salt directly to the food, which you should balance with more fruit in the wine. A salt-cured beef tenderloin, for example, needs a rich, fruity red like a Zinfandel rather than an earthy Cabernet Sauvignon.

With seasonings, consider the intensity of the seasonings themselves, as not all spices are created equal. Tahitian vanilla has a fruitier, more complex flavor than plain old vanilla extract. And Spanish paprika is hotter and more intense than Hungarian paprika. With heavily seasoned sauces, determine whether you want to highlight the main dish or the sauce. Is it the beef tenderloin you are pairing to, or is it the peppercorn cream sauce?

Perfect Pairings

Brining does not necessarily alter the food’s basic properties. While it enhances the moisture of meats and poultry, it doesn’t add more salt to the meat (despite the vast amount of salt used in the brine itself), and as such, it doesn’t affect the pairing much.

Making Flavors Sing in Pairings

When you consider a whole dish for pairing, first you need to pick out its predominant flavors. Concentrate on pairing those top two or three tastes with a wine’s aromas.

Keep in mind that the predominant flavors of a dish are not always the ingredients that are used in the largest amounts in a recipe. Rosemary and olive oil roasted chicken, for example, typically doesn’t use a lot of rosemary, but rosemary is definitely a predominant flavor to consider when pairing that dish.

Perfect Pairings

Rosemary, olive oil, and garlic are three examples of ingredients that, in small amounts, can have a big impact on a dish’s final flavors.

And keep in mind that you don’t always have to pair with the main entrée. If you’ve got some great ribeye steaks and you’re planning to serve the steaks with roasted potatoes and baked zucchini casserole, you’re probably going to choose a wine that pairs with the ribeyes. But if the zucchini casserole is a family favorite and the star of the meal, you might want to concentrate on the casserole instead.

Putting It all Together

Although the ingredients in most foods we eat have been combined and cooked, the basic flavors of the individual ingredients often shine through.

To better understand how ingredients match up with wines, Jaclyn has created a master pairings list for more than 100 common ingredients, including meats, cheeses, vegetables, fruits, seafood, fish, herbs, and spices. When using this list, it is important to consider the intensity of the dish as a whole and pair the wine that matches up with that from among the recommendations.

Almond. See Nuts
Anchovy. Dry rosé, dry Sherry, Pinot Grigio
Apple. Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Chenin Blanc
Apricot. Riesling, Chenin Blanc, late harvest white wines
Artichoke. Grüner Veltliner, Blanc de Blancs Champagne, Sauvignon Blanc
Asparagus. Grüner Veltliner, Sauvignon Blanc, unoaked Chardonnay
Avocado. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Brut Champagne, Grüner Veltliner
Bacon. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Tempranillo
Banana. Madeira, Tawny Port, Blanc de Blancs Champagne
Basil. Sangiovese, Sauvignon Blanc, unoaked Chardonnay, Zinfandel
Beans. Shiraz, Zinfandel, Rhone blends
Beef. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah/Shiraz, French Pinot Noir
Bell Pepper. Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc
Berries. Sparkling wines, Riesling, Beaujolais, red wines with various berry flavors, Ruby Port
Bread. Chardonnay, sparkling wine
Broccoli. Sauvignon Blanc, Grüner Veltliner
Butter. Chardonnay, sparkling wine
Capers. Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris/Grigio, Pinot Noir
Caramel. Tawny Port, Madeira, sweet Sherry, late harvest white wines
Carrot. Grüner Veltliner, Sémillon, Viognier, Riesling
Cauliflower. Pinot Gris, off-dry Riesling
Cheese, any kind. Riesling
Cheese, bloomy rind. Sparkling wine, Riesling, Beaujolais, Sherry, Gewürztraminer
Cheese, blue. Dessert wines, Ports, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
Cheese, cheddar. Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Sherry
Cheese, goat. Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Gris/Grigio
Cheese, hard. Red wine, especially Italian
Cheese, Swiss. Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Grenache
Cheese, washed rind (stinky). French Pinot Noir, Blanc de Noirs Champagne
Chicken. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling
Chickpeas. See Hummus
Chiles. Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz
Chocolate, dark. Port, Zinfandel, Shiraz/Syrah, Petite Sirah
Chocolate, milk. Madeira, Tokaji, Sherry, Vin Santo
Chocolate, white. Late harvest whites, Moscato
Cilantro. Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc
Cinnamon. Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer
Clams. Chardonnay, Pinot Gris/Grigio, Cava, Albariño
Clove. Gewürztraminer, Zinfandel
Coconut. Oaked Chardonnay, Riesling, Viognier
Coffee. Sherry, Tawny Port, Grenache
Corn. Chardonnay, sparkling wine, Pinot Gris
Crab. Riesling, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc
Cream. Chardonnay, sparkling wine, late harvest white wines
Cucumber. Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc
Curry. Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Zinfandel
Dill. Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Riesling
Duck. Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Merlot
Egg. Cava, Blanc de Blancs Champagne, Pinot Blanc, dry rosés, unoaked Chardonnay, aged white wines
Eggplant. Tannic wines, Sangiovese, dry rosés
Fennel. Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris/Grigio, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Noir
Fig. Tawny Port, Vin Santo, Madeira
Fish, pink. Dry rosés, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, sparkling rosés
Fish, white. Pinot Gris/Grigio, Albariño, sparkling wine, unoaked Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Noir
Garlic. Sauvignon Blanc, dry rosés, Chardonnay, Zinfandel
Ginger. Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Viognier
Grapefruit. Sauvignon Blanc, sparkling wine
Green beans. Grüner Veltliner, Gewürztraminer
Halibut. See Fish, white
Ham. See Pork
Hazelnut. See Nuts
Herbes de Provence. Riesling, French Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Sangiovese, French Pinot Noir, dry rosés
Honey. Late harvest white wines, Chenin Blanc, aged Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah
Horseradish. Rosé Champagne, Gewürztraminer, Zinfandel
Hummus. Dry rosés, Pinot Gris/Grigio, Pinot Noir
Lamb. Pinot Noir, dry rosés, Syrah/Shiraz, Tempranillo, Zinfandel, Cabernet Franc
Lemon. Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Sauternes
Lime. Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, late harvest white wine
Liver. Late harvest white wine, French Pinot Noir, Syrah, Tempranillo
Lobster. Chardonnay, sparkling wine, Riesling, Rhone white, Pinot Noir
Mango. Riesling, unoaked Chardonnay, late harvest white wine
Maple Sparkling Shiraz, Riesling, Viognier
Mayonnaise. Chardonnay, sparkling wine
Melon. Chardonnay, Pinot Gris/Grigio, demi-sec Champagne
Mint. Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon
Mushrooms. Pinot Noir, Madeira, Chardonnay, sparkling wine, Tempranillo, Zinfandel
Mussels. Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Albariño
Mustard. Unoaked Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel
Nutmeg. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir
Nuts. Sherry, dry Madeira, Tawny Port, tannic red wines, Chardonnay
Olives. Sherry, dry rosés, Albariño, Tempranillo
Onion. Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio/Gris, Riesling, Beaujolais, Syrah
Orange. Riesling, sparkling wine, Syrah/Shiraz, Grenache
Oregano. Sauvignon Blanc, Sangiovese
Oysters. Sparkling wine, unoaked Chardonnay
Paprika. Riesling, Zinfandel
Pâté. See Liver
Peach. Riesling, Chenin Blanc, sparkling wine, late harvest white wines, Vin Santo
Peanut. See Nuts
Pear. Riesling, Gewürztraminer, late harvest white wines, sparkling wine
Peas. Sauvignon Blanc
Pecans. See Nuts
Pepper, ground black and pink. Gewürztraminer, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah/Shiraz, Zinfandel
Pepper, ground white. Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Rhone reds
Pineapple. Riesling, late harvest white wines
Polenta. Chardonnay, Blanc de Blancs Champagne
Pork. Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Rhone reds, Zinfandel
Potato. Chardonnay, sparkling wine
Raisin. Late harvest wines
Rice. Pinot Gris/Grigio, Riesling, Albariño, Chardonnay, sparkling wine
Rosemary. Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc
Saffron. Chardonnay, dry rosés, Cabernet Franc
Sage. Riesling, red wines
Salmon. See Fish, pink
Salt. Sparkling wine, Riesling, Zinfandel
Sausage. Riesling, Beaujolais, Zinfandel, Sangiovese, Pinotage
Scallops. Riesling, Blanc de Blancs Champagne, Albariño, Chardonnay
Sesame. Chardonnay, Viognier, Riesling
Shrimp. Sauvignon Blanc, Albariño, dry rosés, Pinot Noir
Smoke. Sparkling wine, Chardonnay, Sherry, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel
Soy sauce. Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, dry rosés
Spinach. Unoaked Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Beaujolais
Squash. Viognier, Madeira, Sherry, French Sauvignon Blanc, Beaujolais
Sweet potato. Demi-sec Champagne, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, late harvest white wines
Swordfish. See Fish, white
Tarragon. Sauvignon Blanc, unoaked Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc
Thyme. Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Rhone reds, dry rosés
Tomato. Albariño, Sauvignon Blanc, Sangiovese, Tempranillo, dry rosés
Trout. See Fish, white
Tuna. See Fish, pink
Turkey. Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Beaujolais, dry rosés
Vanilla. Sparkling wine, Chardonnay, oaked wines
Veal. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, aged reds
Vinegar. Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo
Walnut. See Nuts
Yogurt. Riesling, sparkling wines, Chardonnay
Zucchini. Sauvignon Blanc, Sangiovese

The Least You Need to Know

◆ How you cook a food changes its flavors and pairing options.
◆ Examine the qualities of basic ingredients before pairing.
◆ Rubs and seasonings will affect pairings.
◆ Consider the predominant flavors of a dish before pairing, and remember that the predominant flavors can come from spices, oils, and other secondary ingredients.

By Jaclyn Stuart and Jeanette Hurt in "The Complete Idiot's Guide to Wine and Food Pairing", Alpha Books (a member of Penguin Group), USA, 2010, excerpts chapter 7. Adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.

MEMÓRIAS REAIS E DISTORCIDAS DERAM ORIGEM AOS EVANGELHOS

$
0
0
Giotto - Fuga para o Egito
Em livro, pesquisador relaciona incongruências dos textos à tradição oral.

Diferenças também podem ser ‘culpa’ da criatividade da memória, que tenta dar sentido ao presente.

Após o nascimento de Jesus, ele e sua família foram visitados por pastores de Belém ou pelos Magos vindos do Oriente? Quando ele ainda era bebê, José e Maria fugiram às pressas para o Egito para salvá-lo do temível rei Herodes ou voltaram sossegadamente para Nazaré?

Leitores casuais dos Evangelhos não costumam prestar atenção nessas incongruências ou as combinam numa única grande narrativa informal (primeiro chegaram os pastores e depois os Magos, por exemplo).

Mas a maioria dos historiadores atuais concorda que tais divergências refletem diferentes retratos de Jesus nas tradições cristãs primitivas.

Para o americano Bart Denton Ehrman, professor de estudos religiosos da Universidade da Carolina do Norte em Chapel Hill, as diferenças indicam que as memórias originais a respeito de Jesus passaram por inúmeras transformações quando ainda não passavam de tradição oral, antes de serem registradas nos livros que hoje compõem o Novo Testamento.

As mutações complexas dessas primeiras memórias cristãs são o tema do livro mais recente de Ehrman, “Jesus Before the Gospels” (“Jesus Antes dos Evangelhos”).

Além de analisar os textos bíblicos em busca de pistas sobre sua “pré-história”, o pesquisador propõe um interessante diálogo com as diferentes ciências que estudam a memória humana, em especial a psicologia e a etnologia (normalmente estuda a cultura de populações tradicionais não urbanizadas).

Em resumo, Ehrman busca responder duas perguntas: dá para confiar na memória humana? E quanto à memória de povos que se valem mais da tradição oral: ela é melhor do que a nossa?

As respostas curtas são, respectivamente, “mais ou menos” e m sonoro “não”.

É importante deixar claro porque o historiador decidiu investigar esses temas. Ehrman lembra que o consenso entre os pesquisadores é que os relatos bíblicos sobre a vida de Jesus —Evangelhos de Mateus, Marcos, Lucas e João — foram escritos entre 40 anos e 60 anos após a morte de Cristo. As cartas do apóstolo Paulo são um pouco mais recentes — duas a três décadas depois da crucificação.

Isso significa que as informações sobre a vida e os ensinamentos de Cristo passaram por um longo período de transmissão oral.

Existe a ideia popular de que grupos que dependem da oralidade para transmitir suas tradições sagradas possuem uma memória mais reinada e fidedigna do que a de quem depende da escrita. Esse mito não corresponde aos fatos, mostra Ehrman.

Estudos em diferentes locais e sociedades mostram que as tradições mudam o tempo todo, em intervalos relativamente curtos, dependendo de quem as está recontando ou até quando a mesma pessoa a relata em dias diferentes.

Também parece ser muito fácil criar memórias “culturais” de um evento impactante. Em 1992, por exemplo,um avião bateu num prédio perto de Amsterdã. Dez meses depois, psicólogos holandeses perguntaram a 200 voluntários se eles haviam visto o vídeo do acidente. Mais da metade disse que sim. Detalhe: esse vídeo nunca existiu.

Outros estudos também mostram que até testemunhas oculares de um evento raramente o recordam com precisão. O mais comum é criarem uma memória com lacunas e elementos distorcidos.

RECRIANDO O MESTRE

Para Ehrman, esses erros naturais da memória humana explicam parte das discrepâncias entre os relatos presentes nos Evangelhos. Outras diferenças, no entanto, podem ser creditadas à parte criativa do funcionamento da memória.

Isso têm a ver com outra característica central das lembranças humanas: elas também servem para dar sentido ao presente. No caso de Jesus, as diferentes comunidades cristãs usaram as memórias do Mestre para enfrentar dilemas de seu presente, e com isso as moldaram de formas peculiares.

Isso ajuda a entender por que o Evangelho de Mateus mostra um Jesus preocupado com os detalhes da legislação religiosa judaica (o evangelista provavelmente vivia numa comunidade de judeus convertidos ao cristianismo), enquanto o apóstolo Paulo dá detalhes de morte de Cristo, mas praticamente não fala de sua vida (para ele,o mais importante era a salvação trazida pelo sacrifício na cruz).

Não é fácil reconstruir um Jesus “puramente histórico” a partir dessas visões. Mas elas são tão legítimas quanto qualquer interpretação de outro personagem histórico cujo objetivo é torná-lo relevante para o presente.

Texto de Reinaldo José Lopes publicado na "Folha de S. Paulo", caderno B6, edição de 25 de dezembro de 2016. Editado e ilustrado para ser postado por Leopoldo Costa.


LAMB AND MUTTON

$
0
0

Lamb is a primordial meat of spring, though now available year-round, and good lamb is tied to pasture. Sheep are highly efficient grazers that thrive outdoors. Lambs belong with their mothers, nourished by their milk. After only a couple of days, lambs begin to nibble at grass. If they’re allowed to remain with their mothers, they consume mostly milk, until the balance is tipped at anywhere from six to twelve weeks, shifting wholly to grass at anywhere from eight weeks to eight months. Even in winter, sheep, including lambs, need only hay, with perhaps an option for shelter and a little corn in the coldest weather. Lambs can be fattened entirely on pasture without grain (there’s less work for both people and machines) if they have steady new growth. On an increasing number of small farms, they’re rotated every day or few days through a series of carefully managed paddocks. The best pasture and hay contain as much protein as grain. A farmer once commented to me that in April and May, when the weather is warming and plants are growing fastest, his lambs are “so fat it’s amazing; they’re ready in a month. Those are the best to me.”

Suckling lamb, about four to six weeks old, is very pale, tan, gradually becoming tinged with pink. It’s tender, and some people enjoy it very much, but like kid of the same age, it doesn’t have much character. (To add depth, a shoulder of abbacchio, as suckling lamb is called in Rome, is sometimes cooked with lard, sage, and rosemary and served with anchovy sauce.) For flavor, it’s cooked to at least medium. As lambs get older, their meat becomes more pink and the flavor is more interesting. Eventually it turns red. For simplicity’s sake, lamb is usually defined as being less than a year old. After that, it’s mutton. Typical US-raised lamb is six to eleven months old. But the best lamb taste might lie somewhere between three and six months. And for the best combination of flavor, juice, and tenderness, that meat is cooked rare to medium rare.

Older lamb is often said to taste “muttony”—strong, even pungent, especially the fat, which makes many Americans avoid lamb altogether. Sometimes the grass diet is blamed. Like beef, much lamb is finished on grain, which produces more and harder fat, both outer fat and marbling. The fat comes from the carbohydrates in the grain. The marbled red meat with more saturated fat is often older and has a stronger, meatier taste. Feeding the animals corn increases fat, but other things being equal, it makes a more neutral taste. For the farmer, feeding them grain allows much more control: you know just how much protein the animals are getting.

There are more breeds of sheep than of any other livestock, though cattle come close. For better-tasting lamb, the meat should come from a breed or cross that does well on grass, rather than a special fast-growing cross. Farmers and chefs don’t talk about particular breeds that give better lamb the way they do with pork and beef. But for milder-flavored lamb, it’s essential that the meat come from one of the mutton breeds, as they’re still often called, rather than a wool breed. The sheep valued for wool have much stronger-flavored meat, associated with the wool’s lanolin, the waxy material that helps sheep shed water. US meat breeds are generally British in origin, such as Cheviot, Dorset, Hampshire, and Suffolk. There are also Katahdin and Dorper, called hair sheep, which molt in spring and don’t need shearing. A Pennsylvania farmer I recently spoke with dismissed the idea of top breeds with better taste: “If the lambs gain well on grass and they muscle well, the taste takes care of itself.”

Farmers and chefs agree that lamb, more than beef, tastes of what it eats. In France, there are varied geographic kinds, reflecting the pastures of each place, but the names hardly matter; more important, wherever you are, is to eat what’s local and good. Most distinctive is pré-salé (“salt meadow”) lamb, raised in Britain and especially Brittany and Normandy in France, such as by Mont-Saint-Michel. The sheep advance and retreat with the tides, eating the grasses and other salt-tolerant plants of the coastal marshes. The marine taste is often said to include iodine. A French chef once told me, “You taste the grass, you taste the salt—it’s a completely different taste from other lamb.”

After slaughter, quick chilling tightens and toughens the muscles. To prevent this “cold shortening,” the carcasses should first be held at 55 degrees F (13 degrees C) and then go into the chill for what one hopes is a week of dry-aging and, with more mature lamb with a thicker fat cap, up to two weeks or more. The longer period may not be important, but it adds something. The usual wet-aged meat in plastic has unpleasant, sour-tasting juices around it; dry-aged meat is nutty. For a chef, the problem with buying whole animals from small farms is inconsistent texture, fat, connective tissue, and size, and unequal portions. Animals that run have tougher muscles, which perhaps up to a point is good.

Mutton, the sheep counterpart to beef, was once one of the most admired meats, and the best chefs have never thought otherwise. I hardly know it, but in the US it’s beginning to come back into fashion. (In Britain, a hogget is from one to two years old; only after that is the meat considered mutton, a somewhat more common item in Britain than in North America.) Better mutton is two or more years old and comes not from a ewe but from a wether, a castrated male. If he isn’t castrated, the meat will be too intense. (Lambs that aren’t castrated grow faster; they’re slaughtered too young for it to matter to the taste of the meat.) According to one old haute cuisine account, five-year-old wethers are best, but keeping animals that long is expensive and today unlikely to happen. Mutton is cooked just a little more than lamb, to about 135 degrees F (57 degrees C). In Britain roast mutton is traditionally served with red currant jelly, but black currant is supposed to be better, with its strong, slightly musky side to complement the near gaminess of the meat.

The prestige cut of lamb is the rack, the six to eight ribs next to the shoulder, when they aren’t broken into chops. Next comes the loin; the whole loin is the festive saddle. When the loin is cut into chops, it produces little porterhouses. Then comes the leg. The leg and rack or chops are best cooked rare to medium rare for maximum juice and tenderness. (The papery fell, in young animals, is a light membrane over the fat that covers the whole animal. It’s very minor in young lamb, but in theory, it’s left on the large roasting cuts, to protect them, and removed from small ones, such as chops, because it shrinks in cooking and pulls and distorts them.)

Shoulder chops are uselessly tough, but the shoulder makes excellent ground lamb to go with eggplant in moussaka, in Arab kibbe (usually meatballs), and in sausage. Lamb lends itself to spice. A braised shoulder is one of the best dishes. To be succulent, a braise must be heated slowly and then cooked well below a boil. That’s sometimes done in earthenware pots, which conduct heat poorly and thus more evenly. The shoulder is more likely to hold its juices if it’s braised whole on the bone, but then carving is messy. Somewhat like a roast, a braise benefits from a rest, as the temperature falls and a little of the flavorful juice is reabsorbed into the meat. A navarin printanier, a French spring lamb stew, is named for the navets, the turnips that join the other young vegetables ready in that season, including new potatoes. (A navarin originally called for mutton.) Blanquette de veau, braised shoulder and breast, with its pale egg-thickened sauce, is a classic of French home cooking.

The shanks are the most flavorful part of a lamb, and very succulent if they’re carefully cooked, either braised or otherwise cooked very slowly, so the tough connections turn gelatinous and tender. Shanks especially go with garlic. I once braised a pot of lamb tongues, some of the best tongue I’ve eaten. My favorite kidneys are lamb, and lamb sweetbreads are excellent. I love the Marseille specialty pieds et paquets, “feet and packages”; the feet are cooked for hours with squares of tripe closed around chopped lightly cured pork with garlic and parsley, all in an aromatic tomato-wine sauce.

No meat is better than a roast leg of lamb. A leg logically shouldn’t, but in the US often does, include a section of loin. Cut fully long (uncommon today in the US), it includes the whole shank, and then part of the pleasure is the variety in taste. Most of the meat is rare, but the narrow shank conveniently ends up well-done. For easy carving, you need the long shank to hold on to or, if the leg is young and small enough, to attach a French-style clamp, a manche à gigot, to use as a handle. For years, before putting a leg to roast, I removed the aitch bone (pelvic bone) to make carving easier; then I realized that even if that part of the leg is tightly tied, the cuts lose enough juice during roasting that the easier carving isn’t worth it. The most flavorful, juicy, tender range of doneness is rare to pink—125 to at most 140 degrees F (52 to 60 degrees C). Gigot d’agneau de sept heures, a “seven-hour leg of lamb,” is simmered very slowly with aromatic vegetables, herbs, wine, and stock until it is spoon tender. And a leg is sometimes baked on a bed of beans or potatoes, which benefit from the juice and fat.

Roasting, real roasting, requires intense, dry radiant heat, ideally from an open fire with the meat turning before it. A conventional oven, with its relatively moist heat coming from all sides, bakes whatever is put into it. The metal walls rarely get hotter than 500 degrees F (290 degrees C), while, as Harold McGee explains in his highly useful On Food and Cooking, the glowing coals reach about 2,000 degrees F (1,100 degrees C) and the energy radiating from an object that hot is forty times greater than it is from a 500-degree one. The metal appliance cooks not just by radiation but by convection and conduction (if the meat sits on the bottom of the pan).

To turn the leg of lamb before the fire, one of the oldest and best jacks is a string hanging from a nail and tied to the shank, so the meat slowly twirls. You have to give it a spin from time to time, or the meat will stop and burn on one side. A horizontal spit requires more force to turn it.

Because you roast in front of and not over a fire, the meat has little or no taste of smoke. The intense heat comes from one side only, and because no surface of the meat is exposed to the fire for long, the interior cooks relatively gently and evenly. Remove the meat from the fire or oven when it reaches approximately 120 degrees F (50 degrees C), depending on how rare you like it. Afterward the still-penetrating heat will raise the center a further 10 degrees or so. The leg must rest for twenty to thirty minutes, depending on its size, or the juices will run out when you carve.

The surface should be a rich brown, with crisp fat, and yet the outermost meat, when you slice it, should form only a thin layer of brown; beneath it the succulent interior should be cooked as evenly as possible to no more than medium rare, for maximum juice. It will always be least cooked at the bone. The usual tactic is to first brown the meat with high heat and then cook it more slowly, something that occurs naturally as a fire dies down. For a darker, crisper surface, some of the most careful cooks have always basted with pure fat and no juice, whose water would cool the surface, though other cooks like the mixed fat and juices because they create a flavorful dark gloss.

HOW TO BUY LAMB

According to your taste, look for more tenderness from younger lamb or for stronger flavor from older lamb. And in animals that haven’t been raised on their mothers’ milk, look for grass rather than grain finishing. (Heavily marbled meat from a lot of grain is unnatural for lamb, and the flavor isn’t typical.) Buy lamb, if you can, directly from a farmer whose methods you know, or, probably better, from one of the new wave of butcher shops that specialize in meats from particular farms, which may have more carefully slaughtered and aged meats and have an actual skilled butcher behind the counter.

COMPLEMENTS TO LAMB

It likes garlic, olive oil, onions, tomato, anchovies, olives, capers, rosemary, red and white wine, lemon, curry (and optionally raisins and blanched almonds), saffron, clove, cardamom, and other spice, and lightly crushed juniper berries. Lamb is complemented by beans of all kinds—green, fava, tender newly shelled beans, and dried beans, especially flageolets. It goes with eggplant, bulb fennel, carrots, sweet green peas, spinach, chicory and escarole, braised cabbage, and turnips (such as in a gratin, with a roast). Rhubarb is often mentioned, but I don’t find a special sympathy. Potatoes browned in pan drippings are particularly delicious. Lamb goes with mango chutney. (I’ve mostly avoided condiments in this book, because relying on them can lead to an unthinking sort of cooking, but they’re often excellent. I grew up eating lamb with mint sauce, made quickly and easily by adding chopped fresh spearmint leaves to a sugar-water-vinegar syrup. I have a sentimental attachment to mint sauce with lamb, but I don’t know whether I would like the combination if I came across it now for the first time. It’s a wine killer.)

NOTES ON WINE

A young, flowery white wine goes with lamb braised with vegetables in white wine, and a more substantial white goes with very young, pale roast lamb. Light reds go with braises. But lamb in general complements a more substantial, mature red wine, and first to be mentioned is always Cabernet Sauvignon, particularly Bordeaux. More mature examples of lamb with stronger flavor also go with Burgundy and Rhone wines, traditional Brunello di Montalcino, old Bordeaux, traditional red Rioja, traditional Nebbiolo—wines that go with game.

By Edward Behr in "50 Foods - The Essential of Good Taste", The Penguin Press, New York, 2013, chapter 30. Adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.

MEDIEVAL PRELUDE

$
0
0

In the late fifteenth and early sixteenth century, there came into existence what we may call a European world-economy. It was not an empire yet it was as spacious as a grand empire and shared some features with it. But it was different, and new. It was a kind of social system the world has not really known before and which is the distinctive feature of the modern world-system. It is an economic but not a political entity, unlike empires, city-states and nation-states. In fact, it precisely encompasses within its bounds (it is hard to speak of boundaries) empires, city-states, and the emerging “nation-states.” It is a “world” system, not because it encompasses the whole world, but because it is larger than any juridically-defined political unit. And it is a “world-economy” because the basic linkage between the parts of the system is economic, although this was reinforced to some extent by cultural links and eventually, as we shall see, by political arrangements and even confederal structures.

An empire, by contrast, is a political unit. For example, Shmuel Eisenstadt has defined it this way:

The term “empire” has normally been used to designate a political system encompassing wide, relatively high centralized territories, in which the center, as embodied both in the person of the emperor and in the central political institutions, constituted an autonomous entity. Further, although empires have usually been based on traditional legitimation, they have often embraced some wider, potentially universal political and cultural orientation that went beyond that of any of their component parts.1

Empires in this sense were a constant feature of the world scene for 5,000 years. There were continuously several such empires in various parts of the world at any given point of time. The political centralization of an empire was at one and the same time its strength and its weakness. Its strength lay in the fact that it guaranteed economic flows from the periphery to the center by force (tribute and taxation) and by monopolistic advantages in trade. Its weakness lay in the fact that the bureaucracy made necessary by the political structure tended to absorb too much of the profit, especially as repression and exploitation bred revolt which increased military expenditures.2 Political empires are a primitive means of economic domination. It is the social achievement of the modern world, if you will, to have invented the technology that makes it possible to increase the flow of the surplus from the lower strata to the upper strata, from the periphery to the center, from the majority to the minority, by eliminating the “waste” of too cumbersome a political superstructure.

I have said that a world-economy is an invention of the modern world. Not quite. There were world-economies before. But they were always transformed into empires: China, Persia, Rome. The modern world-economy might have gone in that same direction—indeed it has sporadically seemed as though it would—except that the techniques of modern capitalism and the technology of modern science, the two being somewhat linked as we know, enabled this world-economy to thrive, produce, and expand without the emergence of a unified political structure.3

What capitalism does is offer an alternative and more lucrative source of surplus appropriation (at least more lucrative over a long run). An empire is a mechanism for collecting tribute, which in Frederic Lane’s pregnant image, “means payments received for protection, but payments in excess of the cost of producing the protection.”4 In a capitalist world-economy, political energy is used to secure monopoly rights (or as near to it as can be achieved). The state becomes less the central economic enterprise than the means of assuring certain terms of trade in other economic transactions. In this way, the operation of the market (not the free operation but nonetheless its operation) creates incentives to increased productivity and all the consequent accompaniment of modern economic development. The world-economy is the arena within which these processes occur.

A world-economy seems to be limited in size. Ferdinand Fried observed that:

If one takes account of all the factors, one reaches the conclusion that the space of the ‘world’ economy in Roman antiquity could be covered in about 40 to 60 days, utilizing the best means of transport. . . . Now, in our times [1939], it also takes 40 to 60 days to cover the space of the modern world economy, if one uses the normal channels of transportation for merchandise.5

And Fernand Braudel adds that this could be said to be the time span of the Mediterranean world in the sixteenth century.6

The origins and the functioning of such a 60–day European world-economy7 in the sixteenth century is our concern here. It is vital to remember, however, that Europe was not the only world-economy at the time. There were others.8 But Europe alone embarked on the path of capitalist development which enabled it to outstrip these others. How and why did this come about? Let us start by seeing what happened in the world in the three centuries prior to 1450. In the twelfth century, the Eastern Hemisphere contained a series of empires and small worlds, many of which were interlinked at their edges with each other. At that time, the Mediterranean was one focus of trade where Byzantium, Italian city-states, and to some extent parts of northern Africa met. The Indian Ocean–Red Sea complex formed another such focus. The Chinese region was a third. The Central Asian land mass from Mongolia to Russia was a fourth. The Baltic area was on the verge of becoming a fifth. Northwest Europe was however a very marginal area in economic terms. The principal social mode or organization there was what has come to be called feudalism.

We must be very clear what feudalism was not. It was not a “natural economy,” that is, an economy of self-subsistence. Western Europe feudalism grew out of the disintegration of an empire, a disintegration which was never total in reality or even de jure.9 The myth of the Roman Empire still provided a certain cultural and even legal coherence to the area. Christianity served as a set of parameters within which social action took place. Feudal Europe was a “civilization,” but not a world-system.

It would not make sense to conceive of the areas in which feudalism existed as having two economies, a market economy of the towns and a subsistence economy of the rural manors. In the twentieth century, with reference to the so-called underdeveloped world, this approach has gone under the label of the “dual economy” theory. Rather, as Daniel Thorner suggests:

We are sure to deceive ourselves if we think of peasant economies as oriented exclusively towards their own subsistence and term “capitalist” any orientation towards the “market.” It is more reasonable to start by assuming that, for many centuries, peasant economies have had both orientations.10

For many centuries? How many? B. H. Slicher van Bath, in his major work on European agrarian history, marks the turning point at about 1150 A.D.. Even before then, he does not think Western Europe was engaged in subsistence farming, but rather from 500 A.D. to c. 1150 A.D. in what he calls “direct agricultural consumption,” that is, a system of partial self-sufficiency in which, while most people produce their own food, they also supply it to the nonagricultural population as barter. From 1150 A.D. on, he considers Western Europe to have reached that stage of “indirect agricultural consumption,” a stage we are still in today.11

What we should envisage then, when we speak of western European feudalism, is a series of tiny economic nodules whose population and productivity were slowly increasing, and in which the legal mechanisms ensured that the bulk of the surplus went to the landlords who had noble status and control of the juridical machinery. Since much of this surplus was in kind, it was of little benefit unless it could be sold. Towns grew up, supporting artisans who bought the surplus and exchanged it for their products. A merchant class came from two sources: On the one hand, agents of the landlords who sometimes became independent, as well as intermediate size peasants who retained enough surplus after payments to the lord to sell it on the market12; on the other hand, resident agents of long-distance merchants (based often in northern Italian city-states and later in the Hanseatic cities) who capitalized on poor communications and hence high disparities of prices from one area to another, especially when certain areas suffered natural calamities.13 As towns grew, of course, they offered a possible refuge and place of employment for peasants which began to change some of the terms of relationship on the manor.14

Feudalism as a system should not be thought of as something antithetical to trade. On the contrary, up to a certain point, feudalism and the expansion of trade go hand in hand. Claude Cahen suggests that if scholars have often observed this phemonemon in areas other than western Europe,15 perhaps they have failed to notice the same phenomenon in Western feudalism because of ideological blinkers. “Having thus noted the possibility of convergence, up to a certain stage of development only, of the development of feudalism and of commerce, we ought to reconsider, from this point of view, the history of the West itself.”16

Yet a feudal system could only support a limited amount of long-distance trade as opposed to local trade. This was because long-distance trade was a trade in luxuries, not in bulk goods. It was a trade which benefited from price disparities and depended on the political indulgence and economic possibilities of the truly wealthy. It is only with the expansion of production within the framework of a modern world-economy that long-distance trade could convert itself in part into bulk trade which would, in turn, feed the process of expanded production. Until then, as Owen Lattimore notes, it was not really what we mean today by trade:

As late as the time of Marco Polo (at least) the trade of the merchant who ventured beyond his own district depended delicately on the whims of potentates. . . . The distant venture was concerned less with the disposal of goods in bulk and more with curiosities, rarities and luxuries. . . . The merchant sought out those who could extend favor and protection. . . . If he were unlucky he might be plundered or taxed to ruination; but if he were lucky he received for his goods not so much an economic price as a munificent largesse. . . . The structure of the silk trade and that of much other trade was more a tribute structure than a trade structure.17

Thus, the level of commercial activity was limited. The principal economic activity remained food and handicraft production traded within small economic regions. Nonetheless, the scale of this economic activity was slowly expanding. And the various economic nuclei expanded therewith. New frontier lands were cultivated. New towns were founded. Population grew. The Crusades provided some of the advantages of colonial plunder. And then sometime in the fourteenth century, this expansion ceased. The cultivated areas retracted. Population declined. And throughout feudal Europe and beyond it, there seemed to be a “crisis,” marked by war, disease, and economic hardship. Whence came this “crisis” and what were its consequences?

First, in what sense was there a crisis? Here there is some disagreement, not so much as to the description of the process as to the emphasis in causal explanation. Edouard Perroy sees the issue primarily as one of an optimal point having been reached in an expansion process, of a saturation of population, “an enormous density, given the still primitive state of agrarian and artisanal technology.”18 And lacking better plows and fertilizer little could be done to ameliorate the situation. This led to food shortages which in turn led to epidemics. With a stable money supply, there was a moderate rise in prices, hurting the rentiers. The slow deterioration of the situation was then rendered acute by the beginnings of the Hundred Years War in 1335–1345, which turned western European state systems toward a war economy, with the particular result that there was an increased need for taxes. The taxes, coming on top of already heavy feudal dues, were too much for the producers, creating a liquidity crisis which in turn led to a return to indirect taxes and taxes in kind.

Thus started a downward cycle: The fiscal burden led to a reduction in consumption which led to a reduction in production and money circulation which increased further the liquidity difficulties which led to royal borrowing and eventually the insolvency of the limited royal treasuries, which in turn created a credit crisis, leading to hoarding of bullion, which in turn upset the pattern of international trade. A rapid rise in prices occurred, further reducing the margin of subsistence, and this began to take its toll in population. The landowner lost customers and tenants. The artisan lost customers. There was turn from arable to pasture land because it required less manpower. But there was a problem of customers for the wool. Wages rose, which was a particular burden for small and medium-sized landowners who turned to the State for protection against wage rises. “The disaggregation to manorial production, which becomes ever more severe after 1350, is proof of a continuous slump . . . [of] mediocrity in stagnation.”19

Stagnation is, on the face of it, a curious consequence. One might have expected the following scenario. Reduced population leads to higher wages which, with rents relatively inelastic, would mean a change in the composition of demand, shifting part of the surplus from lord to peasant, and hence ensuring that less of it would be hoarded. Furthermore, a reduction of population in an economy that was largely agricultural should have led to parallel reductions in demand and supply. But since typically a producer will normally reduce production by eliminating the less fertile plots, there should have been an increased rate of productivity, which should have reduced prices. Both of these developments should have encouraged, not discouraged, trade. Nonetheless trade “stagnated” in fact.

What went wrong in the calculation is the implicit assumption about elasticity of demand. North and Thomas remind us that, given the state of the technology and the range of the volume of international trade, transactions costs were very high, and any reduction in volume (due to a decline in population) would set in train a process of rising costs which would lead to a further reduction in trade. They trace the process like this:

[Previously] merchants found it profitable to reduce transactions costs by stationing factors in a distant city to acquire information about prices and possible trading opportunities; as the volume of trade shrank, this was no longer expedient. Information flows dried up and trade volume was further reduced. It is thus not surprising that economic historians have found depression (for them meaning a decreased total volume of economic activity) even in the midst of this world where higher per capita income would presumably have followed the relatively increased real wage that peasant and worker must have been experiencing.20

R. H. Hilton accepts Perroy’s description of events.21 But he takes exception to the form of analysis which makes the crisis comparable to one of the recurrent crises of a developed capitalist system, thus exaggerating the degree to which financial and monetary dilemmas affect a feudal system in which the cash-flow element is so much smaller a part of human interaction than in capitalist society.22 Furthermore, he suggests that Perroy omits any discussion of another phenomenon which resulted from the events Perroy describes, and which to Hilton is central, that of the unusual degree of social conflict, the “climate of endemic discontent,” the peasant insurrections which took the form of a “revolt against the social system as such.”23

For Hilton, this was not therefore merely a conjunctural crisis, one point in an up and down of cyclical trends. Rather it was the culmination of 1000 years of development, the decisive crisis of a system. “During the last centuries of the Roman Empire as during the Middle Ages, society was paralyzed by the growing expense of a social and political superstructure, an expense to which corresponded no compensating increase in the productive resources of society.”24 Hilton agrees with Perroy that the immediate cause of the dilemma was to be found in technological limitations, the lack of fertilizer and the inability to expand fertilizer supply by expanding the number of cattle, because the climate limited the quantity of winter forage for cattle. But “what we should underline is that there was no large reinvestment of profits in agriculture such that would significantly increase productivity.”25 This was because of the inherent limitations of the reward system of feudal social organization.

What Hilton’s emphasis on the general crisis of feudalism offers us over Perroy’s sense of the conjunctural is that it can account for the social transformation these developments involved. For if the optimal degree of productivity had been passed in a system and the economic squeeze was leading to a generalized seignior–peasant class war, as well as ruinous fights within the seigniorial classes, then the only solution that would extract western Europe from decimation and stagnation would be one that would expand the economic pie to be shared, a solution which required, given the technology of the time, an expansion of the land area and population base to exploit. This is what in fact took place in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries.

That peasant revolts became widespread in western Europe from the thirteenth century to the fifteenth century seems to be in little doubt. Hilton finds the immediate explanation for England in the fact that “in the 13th century most of the great estate-owners, lay and ecclesiastical, expanded their demesne production in order to sell agricultural produce on the market. . . . [As a result], labor services were increased, even doubled.”26 Kosminsky similarly talks of this period as being that of “the most intense exploitation of the English peasantry. . . .”27 On the continent, there were a series of peasant rebellions: in northern Italy and then in coastal Flanders at the turn of the 14th century; in Denmark in 1340; in Majorca in 1351; the Jacquerie in France in 1358; scattered rebellions in Germany long before the great peasant war of 1525. Peasant republics sprang up in Frisia in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, and in Switzerland in the thirteenth century. For B. H. Slicher van Bath, “peasant rebellions went with economic recession.”28

Dobb suggests that when such recession occurred, it fell particularly hard not on the lowest stratum of workers who probably never were very well off but on “the upper stratum of well-to-do peasants, who were in position to extend cultivation onto new land and to improve it, and who accordingly tended to be the spearpoint of revolt.”29

The sudden decline of prosperity involved more than peasant discontent. The depopulation which accompanied it—caused by wars, famines, and epidemics—led to the Wüstungen, the recession of settlements from marginal lands, the disappearance of whole villages sometimes. The desertion of villages should not be seen exclusively as a sign of recession. For there are at least two other major reasons for desertion. One, which was a continuing one, was the search for physical security whenever warfare overtook a region.30 A second, less “accidental” and more structural, was a change in agrarian social structure, the “enclosure” or “engrossing” of land. It seems clear that this process too was going on in the late Middle Ages.31 And it is somewhat difficult at this stage of our knowledge to disentangle the three.

Two things seem clear about the cessation of clearings and the recession of settlements. It was, as Karl Helleiner remarks, a “selective process with respect to size of holdings. The percentage of small holdings abandoned in the course of the late Middle Ages appears to have been higher than that of full-sized farms.”32 It was also selective by regions. The Wüstungen seemed to have been extensive not only in Germany and Central Europe,33 but also in England.34 It was on the other hand far more limited in France.35 No doubt this is in part explained by the fact that France was more densely settled and earlier cleared than other areas of Europe for both historical and pedological reasons.

At this time of contracting demand for agricultural products, urban wages and hence industrial prices were rising, because of the shortage of labor bred by population decline. This in turn raised the cost of agricultural labor while reducing rents (insofar as they were fixed while nominal prices were inflating). This led to what Marc Bloch has called the “momentary impoverishment of the seigniorial class.”36 Not only were profits diminished but the costs of management rose, as they always do in difficult times,37 leading owners to consider shedding direct management.

The economic squeeze led to increased exactions on the peasantry which were then counterproductive, and resulted in peasant flight.38 One path to the restoration of income for the nobility, one often efficacious for the wealthiest stratum, was to involve themselves in new and remunerative careers with the princes.39 It was not however sufficient to counteract the effects of recession and therefore to stem the decline of the demesne.40 And it may incidentally, by removing seigniors from residence, have encouraged disinterest in management.

What then happened to the large estates? They were sold or rented for money to the principal group ready and able to engage in such a transaction, the better off peasants, who were in a position to obtain favorable terms.41

We must however remember that the social organization of agricultural production was not identical everywhere. The demesnes were the largest in western Europe, in part because denser population had required the relative efficiency of larger units. In central Europe, the effects of economic recession led to the same desertion of marginal lands, but the analysis of these Wüstungen is complicated by the fact that they represented in part enclosures as well as abandonment.42 Further to the east, in Brandenburg and Poland, as we shall discuss later, where population density was even thinner, the lords who collectively previously owned less land than the peasants “saw their estates acquiring all the lands left deserted by the sudden demographic collapse.”43

How profitable this would be for them in the sixteenth century, how profoundly this would alter the social structure of eastern Europe, how important this would be for the development of western Europe—all this was doubtless outside the ken of the participants in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. But in the nonmarginal arable land areas of western Europe, the excessively large demesne gives way to smaller landholdings. Thus, simultaneously, there is the rise of a medium-sized peasantry on arable land in western Europe, the beginning of enclosures of less arable lands in western Europe (which would be the basis of expanded animal husbandry), and the concentration of property into large estates in eastern Europe (which would come to serve a new function as grain export areas).

Was this period of economic “collapse” or “stagnation” good or bad for the development of a capitalist world-economy? It depends on the length of one’s perspective. Michael Postan sees the fifteenth century as a regression from the developments of the fourteenth,44 a setback which to be sure was later overcome. Eugen Kosminsky sees it as part of the liquidation of feudalism, hence a necessary step in the development of a capitalist economy.45 The facts are the same. The theoretical perspective is different.

Thus far, in this discussion, we have scarcely mentioned the developments in the political sphere, and in particular the slow rise of the centralized state bureaucracy. In the heyday of western feudalism, when the state was weakest, the landowner, the lord of the manor thrived. However much, in a later era, the state machinery might be utilized by the nobility to further their interests, they were doubtless better served still by the weakness of kings and emperors. Not only were they personally freer of control and taxation but they were also freer to control and tax the peasants. In such societies, where there is no effective link between the central authority with its legal order and the masses, the effect of violence was double, since as Bloch noted, “through the play of custom, an abuse might always by mutation become a precedent, a precedent a right.”46

Lords of the manor then would never welcome the strengthening of the central machinery if they were not in a weakened condition in which they found it more difficult to resist the claims of central authority and more ready to welcome the benefits of imposed order. Such a situation was that posed by the economic difficulties of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, and the decline of seigniorial revenues.

Alongside the economic dilemmas occurred a technological shift in the art of war, from the long bow to the cannon and the handgun, from the cavalry war to the one in which infantry charged and hence in which more training and discipline was required. All this meant that the cost of war increased, the number of men required rose, and the desirability of a standing army over ad hoc formations became ever more clear. Given the new requirements, neither the feudal lords individually nor the city-states could really foot the bill or recruit the manpower, especially in an era of depopulation.47 Indeed, even the territorial states were having a hard job of maintaining order, as the frequency of peasant revolts shows.48

The fifteenth century, however, saw the advent of the great restorers of internal order in western Europe: Louis XI in France, Henry VII in England, and Ferdinand of Aragon and Isabella of Castile in Spain. The major mechanisms at their disposition in this task, as for their less successful predecessors, were financial: by means of the arduous creation of a bureaucracy (civil and armed) strong enough to tax and thus to finance a still stronger bureaucratic structure. This process had started already in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. With the cessation of the invasions, which had previously preoccupied and exhausted the princes, the growth of population, the revival of trade and hence the more abundant circulation of money, there was a basis for the taxation which could pay for salaried officials and troops.49 This was true not only in France, England, and Spain but in the principalities of Germany as well.

Taxes are to be sure the key issue. And it is not easy to begin the upward cycle.50 The obstacles to an effective taxation system in the late Middle Ages seem in retrospect overwhelming. Taxation can only in reality be on net production, and net production was low, as was the quantity of money, as well as its circulation. It was extremely difficult to verify taxes both because of a lack of personnel and because of the low level of quantified record keeping. It is no wonder that rulers constantly resorted to alternatives to taxation as sources of income: to confiscation, to borrowing, to selling state offices, to debasing the coinage. But each of these alternatives, while they may have solved financial dilemmas of the moment, had some negative long-term effects on the politico-economic strength of the king.51 Still it would be false to emphasize the difficulties.

It is the magnitude of the achievement that is impressive. The many compromises might be seen as essential steps on the road to success. Tax-farming52 and the venality of office53 can be seen precisely as two such useful compromises. Furthermore, the increased flow of funds to the king not only hurt the nobility by strengthening the state, but also by weakening the nobility’s own sources of revenue, especially in the tighter economy of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, and especially for those not linked to the new bureaucracies. As Duby puts it: “A large part of the revenues extracted from the soil by the peasants still found its way into the lord’s hands, but the endless progress of taxation had greatly enlarged the share taken by the agents of the State.”54

And as the state grew stronger, monetary manipulation became more profitable. When in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, the financial crises of states beset by war were compounded by low profit margins in the countryside that could be taxed, the states had to find other sources of revenue, especially since depopulation meant that princes were offering exemptions from taxation to those who would recolonize devastated areas. Monetary manipulation thus had many advantages. Léopold Génicot points out that there are three possible explanations for the frequent debasements of the period: the reduction of state debts (although debasement also thereby reduces fixed revenues, which constituted the bulk of income from royal domains); scarcity of means of payment, at a time when trade was growing more than the stocks of silver and when public disorder encouraged hoarding of bullion; or a deliberate economic policy of lowering the exchange rate to arrest deflation, combat hoarders, facilitate exports and thus revive commerce. Whichever the explanation of the debasements, they were “very largely inflationary” and “reduced in this way the real value of fixed revenues.”55 The principal recipients of fixed revenues were the seigniorial classes, and hence they were weakened vis-à-vis the state.

The state? What was the state? At this time, it was the prince, the prince whose reputation was lauded, whose majesty was preserved, who little by little was removed from his subjects.56 And it was the bureaucracy which emerged now as a distinctive social grouping with special characteristics and interests, the principal ally of the prince,57 and yet one which, as we shall see, was to remain an ambivalent one. And it was the various parliamentary bodies the sovereigns created as mechanisms to assist them in the legislating of taxes, bodies composed largely of nobles, which the kings tried to use against the nobility and the nobility against the king.58

This state was a creation which dates not from the sixteenth century but from the thirteenth century in western Europe. Yves Renouard has traced how the boundary lines that determine to this day the frontiers of France, England, and Spain were more or less definitively settled in a series of battles which occurred between 1212 and 1214.59 It was on the basis of these lines rather than some others (for example, a Mediterranean Occitanian state including Provence and Catalonia; or an Atlantic state including the western France of the Angevins as part of England) that later nationalist sentiments were constructed. First the boundaries, later the passions is as true of early modern Europe as, say, of twentieth-century Africa. It was at this period that not only were the boundary lines decided but, even more important, it was decided that there would be boundary lines. This is what Edouard Perroy calls the “fundamental change” in the political structure of western Europe.60 In his view, it is between the middle of the twelfth century and the beginning of the fourteenth, in short at the height of commercial and agricultural prosperity of the Middle Ages, that we can date the transformation of Europe.

Why nation-states and not empires? Here we must be prudent about our terminology. Perhaps we should think of France of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries as a nation-state, of France of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries as an empire, of the seventeenth century as a nation-state again.

This is what Fernand Braudel seems to think.61 Why this pattern of alternation? Braudel suggests that “there was, with the economic expansion of the 15th and 16th centuries, a conjuncture stubbornly favorable to vast, even very vast States, to these ‘thick States’. . . . In fact, history is, in turn, favorable and unfavorable to vast political structures.”62 Fritz Hartung and R. Mousnier suggest the need for a minimum size (but also a maximum?) for the establishment of an absolute monarchy, a form which did not succeed in little States. “Doubtless, the latter could not constitute military and economic units large enough to sustain an absolute monarchy.”63 These are but hints at answers to a problem worth considerable theoretical attention. V. G. Kiernan helps us perhaps the most with the following conceptual clarification:

No dynasty set out to build a nation-state; each aimed at unlimited extension . . . and the more it prospered the more the outcome was a multifarious empire manqué. It had to be large enough to survive and sharpen its claws on its neighbours, but small enough to be organized from one centre and to feel itself as an entity. On the closepacked western edge of Europe, any excessive ballooning of territory was checked by competition and geographical limits.64

Unless, of course, they extended their empires overseas.

What would happen to those empires manqué was that they would develop different raisons d’état from empires, different ideologies. A nation-state is a territorial unit whose rulers seek (sometimes seek, often seek, surely not always seek) to make of it a national society—for reasons we shall discuss later. The affair is even more confusing when we remember that from the sixteenth century on, the nation-states of western Europe sought to create relatively homogeneous national societies at the core of empires, using the imperial venture as an aid, perhaps an indispensable one, to the creation of the national society.

We have discussed the crisis of western feudalism in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries as the background for, prelude to, the expansion of Europe and its economic transformation since the sixteenth century. Thus far the discussion and the explanations have been largely in terms of the social structure (the organization of production, the state machinery, the relationship of various social groups). Yet many would feel that the “crisis” of the fourteenth century and the “expansion” of the sixteenth could be accounted for, let us say in significant part, by factors of the physical environment—climate, epidemiology, soil conditions. These arguments cannot be lightly dismissed and the factors should be assessed and given their due weight in accounting for the social change that did occur.

The case for climate has been put most strongly by Gustaf Utterström. The argument in summary goes like this:

Thanks to industrialism, thanks not least to technical progress, man in our own day is less exposed to the whims of Nature than he was in previous centuries. But how often is it considered that another factor is that we are living in an age in which the climate, especially in northern Europe, is unusually mild? During the last 1000 years, . . . the periods of prosperity in human affairs have on the whole, though with important exceptions, occurred during the warm intervals between the great glaciations. It is in these same intervals that both economic life and the size of the populations have made the greatest advances.65

To strengthen his case, Utterström reminds us that climatic change might have had special bearing on the earlier periods in the transformation of Europe. “The primitive agriculture of the Middle Ages must have been much more dependent on favorable weather than is modern agriculture with its high technical standards.”66

Utterström points for example to the severe winters of the fourteenth and early fifteenth centuries, the mild winters from 1460 to the mid-16th century, the severe winters of the second half of the seventeenth,67 which corresponds grosso modo to economic recession, expansion, and recession.

To regard population pressure as the decisive factor does not provide a satisfactory explanation of these economic developments. The fact that the population increased in the way it did raises a question which has not so far been asked: why did the population increase? . . . The great increase in population was . . . general throughout Europe. In northern and central Europe it got well under way during the period when the climate was unusually mild. This can scarcely be a chance coincidence: there must be a causal connection.68

In addition, Utterström makes epidemiological factors intervening variables. He explains the Black Plague by hot summers which led to the multiplication of the black rat, the host to the rat flea, one of the two carriers of the plague.69

Georges Duby acknowledges that this hypothesis must be taken seriously. Certainly some of the fourteenth century abandonments of cultivation (cereals in Iceland, the Scandinavian colonies in Greenland, the lowered forest limit in Sudetenland, the end of viticulture in England and its regression in Germany) are all plausibly explained by climatic change. But there are alternative plausible explanations. Most importantly, Duby reminds us that “agrarian recession, like the demographic collapse, started before the beginning of the fourteenth century,”70 hence before the presumed climatic changes. Instead, Duby would see climatic factors and then epidemiology as being cumulative woes which, in the fourteenth century, “dealt a crushing blow to the already fragile demographic structure.”71 Similar skepticism about the temporal primacy of climatic change in explaining the ups and downs have been expressed by Helleiner,72 Slicher van Bath,73 and Emmanuel Le Roy Ladurie.74

Obviously, to the extent that there was climatic change, it would affect the operations of a social system. Yet equally obviously, it would affect different systems differently. Though opinions differ, it is probable that such glaciation as did occur was spread over the whole Northern Hemisphere, yet social developments in Asia and North America were clearly divergent from those in Europe. It would be useful therefore to return to the chronic factor of resource strain involved in the feudal system of social organization, or overconsumption by a minority given the overall low level of productivity. Norman Pounds reminds us of “how small the margin for security was for the medieval peasant even under conditions that might be termed normal or average. . . .”75 Slicher van Bath tends to corroborate this hypotheses of prolonged undernourishment by observing that it was precisely in protein-producing regions that men were most resistant to the plague.76

If however there was first economic regression because of the chronic overexploitation and resulting rebellions discussed previously, and then climatic factors added on both food shortages and plagues, it is easy to see how the socio–physical conjuncture could achieve “crisis” proportions. The crisis would in turn be aggravated by the factor that the plague, once it spread, became endemic.77 Furthermore, although fewer men should have meant more food since the landmass remained the same, it also meant a shift to pasturage and hence a reduction of caloric output. The demographic decline thus became endemic too.78

Pierre Chaunu adds that “the collapse of rent, the diminution of profits and the aggravation of seigniorial burdens” may have worsened the situation further by turning capital investment away from the land.79 And Dobb suggests that the resulting phenomenon of commutation may have further increased the burden of the peasant, rather than mitigating it as usually assumed, thereby adding to the dilemma.80 Thus, intruding the variables of the physical environment does not undo our previous analysis. It enriches it by adding a further element to help explain a historical conjuncture so consequential in the future history of the world, a further instance in which long-term stabilities and slow secular changes can account for conjunctures which have the power to change social structures which are intermediate from the perspective of temporal duration.

The analysis thus far is as follows. In Europe in the late Middle Ages, there existed a Christian “civilization” but neither a world-empire nor a world-economy. Most of Europe was feudal, that is, consisted of relatively small, relatively self-sufficient economic nodules based on a form of exploitation which involved the relatively direct appropriation of the small agricultural surplus produced within a manorial economy by a small class of nobility. Within Europe, there were at least two smaller world-economies, a medium-sized one based on the city-states of northern Italy and a smaller one based on the city-states of Flanders and northern Germany. Most of Europe was not directly involved in these networks.

From about 1150 to 1300, there was an expansion in Europe within the framework of the feudal mode of production, an expansion at once geographic, commercial, and demographic. From about 1300 to 1450, what expanded contracted, again at the three levels of geography, commerce, and demography.

This contraction following the expansion caused a “crisis,” one which was visible not only in the economic sphere but in the political sphere as well (internecine wars among the nobility and peasant revolts being the two main symptoms). It was also visible at the level of culture. The medieval Christian synthesis was coming under multitudinous attack in all the forms which later would be called the first stirrings of “modern” Western thought.

There are three main explanations of the crisis. One is that it was the product essentially of cyclical economic trends. The optimal point of expansion given the technology having been reached, there followed a contraction. The second is that it was the product essentially of a secular trend. After a thousand years of surplus appropriation under the feudal mode, a point of diminishing returns had been reached. While productivity remained stable (or even possibly declined as a result of soil exhaustion) because of the absence of structured motivation for technological advance, the burden to be borne by the producers of the surplus had been constantly expanding because of the growing size and level of expenditure of the ruling classes. There was no more to be squeezed out. The third explanation is climatological. The shift in European metereological conditions was such that it lowered soil productivity and increased epidemics simultaneously.

The first and the third explanation suffer from the fact that similar cyclical and climatological shifts occurred at other places and times without producing the consequence of creating a capitalist world-economy as a solution to the problems. The secular explanation of crisis may well be correct but it is inherently difficult to create the kind of serious statistical analysis that would demonstrate that it was a sufficient explanation of the social transformation. I believe it is most plausible to operate on the assumption that the “crisis of feudalism” represented a conjuncture of secular trends, an immediate cyclical crisis, and climatological decline.

It was precisely the immense pressures of this conjuncture that made possible the enormity of the social change. For what Europe was to develop and sustain now was a new form of surplus appropriation, a capitalist world-economy. It was to be based not on direct appropriation of agricultural surplus in the form either of tribute (as had been the case for world-empires) or of feudal rents (as had been the system of European feudalism). Instead what would develop now is the appropriation of a surplus which was based on more efficient and expanded productivity (first in agriculture and later in industry) by means of a world market mechanism with the “artificial” (that is, nonmarket) assist of state machineries, none of which controlled the world market in its entirety.

It will be the argument of this book that three things were essential to the establishment of such a capitalist world-economy: an expansion of the geographical size of the world in question, the development of variegated methods of labor control for different products and different zones of the world-economy, and the creation of relatively strong state machineries in what would become the core-states of this capitalist world-economy.

The second and third aspects were dependent in large part on the success of the first. The territorial expansion of Europe hence was theoretically a key prerequisite to a solution for the “crisis of feudalism.” Without it, the European situation could well have collapsed into relative constant anarchy and further contraction. How was it then that Europe seized upon the alternative that was to save it? The answer is that it was not Europe that did so but Portugal, or at least it was Portugal that took the lead.

Let us look now at what it was in the social situation of Portugal that can account for the thrust toward overseas exploration which Portugal began right in the midst of the “crisis.” To understand this phenomenon, we must start by remembering that Europe’s geographical expansion started, as we have already suggested, earlier. Archibald Lewis argues that “from the eleventh to the mid-thirteenth century western Europe followed an almost classical frontier development.”81

He refers to the gradual reconquest of Spain from the Moors, the recuperation by Christian Europe of the Balaeric Islands, Sardinia, and Corsica, the Norman conquest of southern Italy and Sicily. He refers to the Crusades with its addition first of Cyprus, Palestine and Syria, then of Crete and the Aegean Islands. In Northwest Europe, there was English expansion into Wales, Scotland, and Ireland. And in eastern Europe, Germans and Scandinavians penetrated the lands of, conquered, and converted to Christianity Balts and Slavs. “The most important frontier [however] was an internal one of forest, swamp, marsh, moor, and fen. It was this wasteland which Europe’s peasants settled and largely put into cultivation between the years 1000 and 1250.”82 Then, as we have seen, this expansion and this prosperity was brought to an end by a “crisis” which was also a contraction. In political terms, this involved the rally of the Moors in Granada, the expulsion of the Crusaders from the Levant, the reconquest of Constantinople by the Byzantines in 1261, the Mongol conquest of the Russian plain. Internally, in Europe, there were the Wüstungen.

The great explorations, the Atlantic expansion, was thus not the first but the second thrust of Europe, one that succeeded because the momentum was greater, the social and technological base more solid, the motivation more intense. Why however a thrust whose initial center was Portugal? In 1250 or even 1350, few would have thought Portugal a likely candidate for this role. And retrospectively from the twentieth century, it clashes with our sense of probability, our bias against the minor power Portugal has been in modern times and indeed throughout all of history.

We shall try to answer this question in terms of motivation and capabilities. The motivations were European in scope, though some of them may have been felt more acutely in Portugal. What were the explorers looking for? Precious metals and spices, the schoolboy textbooks tell us. And this was true, to be sure, up to a point.

In the Middle Ages, Christian Europe and the Arab world were in a symbiotic relationship in terms of gold and silver. In Andrew Watson’s phrase, “in monetary matters, . . . the two regions should be treated as a whole.”83 The former minted silver, the latter gold. As a result of a long-term disequilibrium in prices, whose origins are complex and need not concern us here, the silver flowed eastward leading to an abundance in the Arab world. Silver exports could no longer lead to gold imports. In 1252, Florence and Genoa therefore struck new gold coins. The motive was there. One fact which made it possible was the expansion of the trans-Saharan gold trade in the thirteenth century.84

Watson thinks it is implausible to talk of a gold shortage, therefore, in western Europe between 1250 and 1500, for it was a time of increasing supply. Still there remained a constant outflow of precious metals from Europe to India and China via Byzantium and the Arab world, although the disequilibrium was lessening. Watson talks, somewhat mysteriously, of the “strong power of India and China to attract precious metals from other parts of the world.”85 The demand for bullion thus remained high. Between 1350 and 1450, the silver mines in Serbia and Bosnia began to develop86 and became an important source until the Turkish invasion of the fifteenth century cut them off from western Europe.

Similarly, beginning in 1460, there was a sudden rise of silver mining in central Europe, made possible by technological improvements which permitted the exploitation of what had been theretofore marginal mines. Perroy estimates that between 1460 and 1530 silver production quintupled in central Europe.87 Nonetheless, the supply was not keeping pace with the demand, and the search for gold by the maritime route (thus, for Sudanic gold, circumventing North African intermediaries) was unquestionably one consideration for the early Portuguese navigators.88 When, therefore, the discovery of the Americas was to give Europe a richer source of gold than the Sudan and especially a far richer source of silver than central Europe, the economic consequences would be great.89

The bullion was sought to provide a monetary base for circulation within Europe but even more to export it to the Orient. For what? Again, every schoolboy knows: for spices and jewels. For whom? For the wealthy, who used them as the symbols of their conspicuous consumption. The spices were made into aphrodisiacs, as though the aristocracy could not make love otherwise. At this epoch, the relationship of Europe and Asia might be summed up as the exchange of preciosities. The bullion flowed east to decorate the temples, palaces, and clothing of Asian aristocratic classes and the jewels and spices flowed west. The accidents of cultural history (perhaps nothing more than physical scarcity) determined these complementary preferences. Henri Pirenne, and later Paul Sweezy, give this demand for luxuries a place of honor in the expansion of European commerce.90 I am skeptical, however, that the exchange of preciosities, however large it loomed in the conscious thinking of the European upper classes, could have sustained so colossal an enterprise as the expansion of the Atlantic world, much less accounted for the creation of a European world-economy.

In the long run, staples account for more of men’s economic thrusts than luxuries. What western Europe needed in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries was food (more calories and a better distribution of food values) and fuel. Expansion into Mediterranean and Atlantic islands, then to North and West Africa and across the Atlantic, as well as expansion into eastern Europe, the Russian steppes and eventually Central Asia provided food and fuel. It expanded the territorial base of European consumption by constructing a political economy in which this resource base was unequally consumed, disproportionately by western Europe. This was not the only way. There was also technological innovation which increased the yield of agriculture, innovation which began in Flanders as early as the thirteenth century and spread to England, but only in the sixteenth century.91 But such technological innovation was most likely to occur precisely where there was dense population and industrial growth, as in medieval Flanders, which were the very places where it became more profitable to turn the land use to commercial crops, cattle-breeding and horticulture, which consequently “required the import of corn [wheat] in large quantities. Only then could the complicated interlocking system of agriculture and industry function to its fullest advantage.”92 Hence, the process of agricultural innovation fed rather than foreclosed the necessity of expansion.

Wheat was a central focus of new production and new commerce in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. At first, Europe found in northern forests and Mediterranean plains its “internal Americas,” in the perceptive phrase of Fernand Braudel.93 But internal Americas were not enough. There was expansion at the edges, first of all to the islands. Vitorino Magalhães-Godinho has put forward as a working hypothesis that agriculture was the major motivation of Portuguese colonization of the Atlantic islands, a hypothesis pursued by Joël Serrão, who noted that the development of these islands was speedy and in terms of “the tetralogy of cereals, sugar, dyes, and wine . . . . [There was] always a tendency towards monoculture, one or the other of the four products always being preferred.”94 The new wheat that was grown began to flow throughout the European continent, from the Baltic area to the Low Countries beginning in the fourteenth century95 and as far as Portugal by the fifteenth,96 from the Mediterranean to England and the Low Countries in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries.97

Foods may be placed in a hierarchy in terms of their cost per 1000 calories. M. K. Bennett finds this hierarchy fairly stable over time and space. Milled-grain products and starchy roots and tubers are at the bottom of his eight tiers, that is, they are the cheapest, the most basic of the staples.98 But on grains alone a good diet is not built. One of the most important complements in the European diet is sugar, useful both as a calorie source and as a substitute for fats. Furthermore, it can also be used for alcoholic drinks (particularly rum). And later on, it would be used for chocolate, a usage which the Spaniards learned from the Aztecs, and which would become a highly appreciated drink, at least in Spain, by the seventeenth century.99

Sugar too was a principal motivation for island expansion. And, because of its mode of production, with sugar went slavery. This started in the eastern Mediterranean in the twelfth century and then moved westward.100 The Atlantic expansion was simply its logical continuation. Indeed, E. E. Rich traces African slavery in Portugal back to 1000 A.D., the slaves being acquired by trade with Mohammedan raiders.101 Sugar was a very lucrative and demanding product, pushing out wheat102 but then exhausting the soil, so that it required ever new lands (not to speak of the manpower exhausted by its cultivation).

Fish and meat are higher on Bennett’s list of categories. But they were wanted as sources of protein. Godinho cites the expansion of fishing areas as one of the key dynamics of early Portuguese exploration.103 Meat no doubt was less important than grain, and was considerably and steadily reduced in importance in the period from 1400 to 1750104—a proof of a point to which we shall return, that European workers paid part of the costs of European economic development.105 Nonetheless the desire for meat was one of the motivations of the spice trade, not the Asian spices for the aphrodisiacs of the rich but the West African grains of paradise (Amomum melegueta), used as a pepper substitute as well as for the spiced wine known as hippocras.106 These spices were “barely capable of making thin gruel acceptable.”107

If food needs dictated the geographical expansion of Europe, the food benefits turned out to be even greater than could have been anticipated. World ecology was altered and in a way which, because of the social organization of the emergent European world-economy, would primarily benefit Europe.108 In addition to food, the other great basic need was wood—wood for fuel, and wood for shipbuilding (and housebuilding). The economic development of the Middle Ages, and one must assume its crude forestry techniques, had led to a slow but steady deforestation of western Europe, Italy, and Spain, as well as Mediterranean islands. Oak became especially scarce.109 By the sixteenth century, the Baltic area had begun to export wood in large quantities to Holland, England, and the Iberian peninsula.

One other need of provisioning should be mentioned, the need of clothing. There was of course the luxury trade, the demand for silks, whose ancient history was linked with the demand for jewels and spices. The growing textile industry, the first major industry in Europe’s industrial development, was more than a luxury trade, however, and required materials for processing: dye-stuffs for cotton and wool textiles and gum used to stiffen the silks in the finishing process.110

Bullion was desired as a preciosity, for consumption in Europe and even more for trade with Asia, but it was also a necessity for the expansion of the European economy. We must ask ourselves why. After all, money as a means of payment can be made of anything, provided men will honor it. And indeed today we almost exclusively use nonbullion items as means of payment. Furthermore, Europe was beginning to do so in the late Middle Ages with the development of “money of account,” sometimes deceivingly called “imaginary money.”

It would however take centuries before metallic money approached the status of symbolic money.111 It is not yet totally there even today. As a result Europe was beset by constant mutations of value through debasement, so constant that Marc Bloch calls it “the universal thread of monetary history.”112 Yet no one seriously suggested then dispensing with bullion.

There were various reasons why not. Those who advised the governments were self-interested in the system.113 We must not forget that in the late Middle Ages, it was still the case that mints were commercial propositions serving private interests.114 But more fundamental than self-interest was the collective psychology of fear, based on the structural reality of a weakly-articulated economic system. The money of account might always collapse. It surely was in no man’s hands, however wealthy, to control it either singly or in collusion with others. Indeed, who knew, the whole monetary economy might once again collapse? It had before. Bullion was a hedge. The money of payment might always be used as a commodity, provided only the two uses of money, as measurement of value and means of payment, did not get too far apart.115 For this, the use of bullion was essential. And hence without it, Europe would have lacked the collective confidence to develop a capitalist system, wherein profit is based on various deferrals of realized value. This is a fortiori true given the system of a nonimperial world-economy which, for other reasons, was essential. Given this phenomenon of collective psychology, an integral element of the social structure of the time, bullion must be seen as an essential crop for a prospering world-economy.

The motives for exploration were to be found not only in the products Europe wished to obtain but in the job requirements of various groups in Europe. As H. V. Livermore reminds us, it was the Iberian chroniclers of the time and shortly thereafter who first noted that “the idea of carrying on the Reconquista in North Africa was suggested by the need to find useful employment for those who had lived on frontier raids for almost a quarter of a century.”116

We must recall the key problem of the decline in seigniorial income in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. M. M. Postan has called the consequent behavior of the English nobility “gangsterism,” the use of illegal violence to recover a lost standard of income. Similar phenomena occurred in Sweden, Denmark, and Germany. One of the forms of this violence was surely expansion.117 The general principle that might be invoked is that if feudal nobles obtain less revenue from their land, they will actively seek to have more land from which to draw revenue, thus restoring real income to the level of social expectations. If then we ask why did Portugal expand overseas and not other European countries, one simple answer is that nobles in other countries were luckier. They had easier expansions to undertake, closer at home, using horses rather than ships. Portugal, because of its geography, had no choice.

No doubt overseas expansion has been traditionally linked with the interests of merchants, who stood to profit by the expanded trade, and with the monarchs who sought to ensure both glory and revenue for the throne. But it may well have been that the initial motivation for Iberian explorations came primarily from the interests of the nobility, particularly from the notorious “younger sons” who lacked land, and that it was only once the trade network began functioning that the more prudent merchants (often less entrepreneurial than nobles threatened by being déclassé) became enthusiastic.118

Was the cause of expansion overpopulation? This is one of those questions which confuse the issue. Braudel tells us that there was of course overpopulation in the western Mediterranean, and as proof he cites the repeated expulsion of Jews and later the Moriscos from various countries.119 But E. E. Rich assures us that, as a motivation for expansion in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, “overspill for redundant population was negligible. . . . The probability (for it can be no more) is that the increasing population went to the wars or to the cities.”120 Yes, perhaps, but how were those who went to the cities (or to the wars) fed—and clothed and housed, etc.? There was physical room for the population, even the growing population, in Europe. Indeed that was part of the very problem that led to expansion.

The physical room was one element in the strength of the peasantry vis-à-vis the nobility, and hence one factor in the decline of seigniorial revenues, in the crisis of feudalism. European societies could have responded in various ways. One way was to define themselves (at least implicitly) as overpopulated and therefore in need of a larger land base.121 Actually, what the nobility (and the bourgeoisie) needed, and what they would get, was a more tractable labor force. The size of the population was not the issue; it was the social relations that governed the interaction between upper and lower classes.

Finally, can overseas expansion be explained by the “crusading spirit,” the need to evangelize? Again, the question obscures the problem. No doubt Christianity took on a particularly militant form in the Iberian peninsula where the national struggles had for so long been defined in religious terms. No doubt this was an era of Christian defeat by Moslem Turks in south-eastern Europe (to the very gates of Vienna). And Atlantic expansion may well have reflected a psychological reaction to these events, “a phenomenon of compensation, a sort of flight forward,” as Chaunu suggests.122

No doubt the passions of Christianity explain many of the particular decisions taken by the Portuguese and Spaniards, perhaps some of the intensity of commitment or overcommitment. But it seems more plausible to see this religious enthusiasm as rationalization, one no doubt internalized by many of the actors, hence reinforcing and sustaining—and economically distorting. But history has seen passion turn to cynicism too regularly for one not to be suspicious of invoking such belief systems as primary factors in explaining the genesis and long-term persistence of large-scale social action.

All that we have said of motivation does not conclusively answer: why the Portuguese? We have talked of Europe’s material needs, a general crisis in seigniorial revenues. To be sure, we here adduced a particular interest of Portugal in solving this problem by Atlantic exploration; but it is not enough to be convincing. We must therefore turn from the issue of motivations to that of capabilities. Why was Portugal, of all the polities of Europe, most able to conduct the initial thrust? One obvious answer is found on any map. Portugal is located on the Atlantic, right next to Africa. In terms of the colonization of Atlantic islands and the exploration of the western coast of Africa, it was obviously closest. Furthermore, the oceanic currents are such that it was easiest, especially given the technology of the time, to set forth from Portuguese ports (as well as those of southwest Spain).123

In addition, Portugal already had much experience with long-distance trade. Here, if Portugal cannot match the Venetians or the Genoese, recent research has demonstrated that their background was significant and probably the match of the cities of northern Europe.124

A third factor was the availability of capital. The Genoese, the great rivals of the Venetians, decided early on to invest in Iberian commercial enterprise and to encourage their efforts at overseas expansion.125 By the end of the fifteenth century, the Genoese would prefer the Spaniards to the Portuguese, but that is largely because the latter could by then afford to divest themselves of Genoese sponsorship, tutelage, and cut in the profit. Verlinden calls Italy “the only really colonizing nation during the middle ages.”126 In the twelfth century when Genoese and Pisans first appear in Catalonia,127 in the thirteenth century when they first reach Portugal,128 this is part of the efforts of the Italians to draw the Iberian peoples into the international trade of the time. But once there, the Italians would proceed to play an initiating role in Iberian colonization efforts because, by having come so early, “they were able to conquer the key positions of the Iberian peninsula itself.”129

As of 1317, according to Virginia Rau, “the city and the port of Lisbon would be the great centre of Genoese trade. . . .”130 To be sure, in the late fourteenth and early fifteenth centuries, Portuguese merchants began to complain about the “undue intervention [of the Italians] in the retail trade of the realm, which threatened the dominant position of national merchants in that branch of trade.”131 The solution was simple, and to some extent classic. The Italians were absorbed by marriage and became landed aristocrats both in Portugal and on Madeira.

There was one other aspect of the commercial economy that contributed to Portugal’s venturesomeness, compared to say France or England. It was ironically that it was least absorbed in the zone that would become the European world-economy, but rather tied in a significant degree to the Islamic Mediterranean zone. As a consequence, her economy was relatively more monetized, her population relatively more urbanized.132

It was not geography nor mercantile strength alone, however, that accounted for Portugal’s edge. It was also the strength of its state machinery. Portugal was in this regard very different from other west European states, different that is during the fifteenth century. She knew peace when they knew internal warfare.133 The stability of the state was important not only because it created the climate in which entrepreneurs could flourish and because it encouraged nobility to find outlets for their energies other than internal or inter-European warfare. The stability of the state was crucial also because it itself was in many ways the chief entrepreneur.134 When the state was stable, it could devote its energies to profitable commercial ventures. For Portugal, as we have seen, the logic of its geohistory dictated Atlantic expansion as the most sensible commercial venture for the state.

Why Portugal? Because she alone of the European states maximized will and possibility. Europe needed a larger land base to support the expansion of its economy, one which could compensate for the critical decline in seigniorial revenues and which could cut short the nascent and potentially very violent class war which the crisis of feudalism implied. Europe needed many things: bullion, staples, proteins, means of preserving protein, foods, wood, materials to process textiles. And it needed a more tractable labor force.

But “Europe” must not be reified. There was no central agency which acted in terms of these long-range objectives. The real decisions were taken by groups of men acting in terms of their immediate interests. In the case of Portugal, there seemed to be advantage in the “discovery business” for many groups—for the state, for the nobility, for the commercial bourgeoisie (indigenous and foreign), even for the semiproletariat of the towns.

For the state, a small state, the advantage was obvious. Expansion was the most likely route to the expansion of revenue and the accumulation of glory. And the Portuguese state, almost alone among the states of Europe of the time, was not distracted by internal conflict. It had achieved moderate political stability at least a century earlier than Spain, France, and England.

It was precisely this stability which created the impulse for the nobility. Faced with the same financial squeeze as European nobles elsewhere, they were deprived of the soporific and financial potential (if they won) of internecine warfare. Nor could they hope to recoup their financial position by internal colonization. Portugal lacked the land. So they were sympathetic to the concept of oceanic expansion and they offered their “younger sons” to provide the necessary leadership for the expeditions.

The interests of the bourgeoisie for once did not conflict with those of the nobility. Prepared for modern capitalism by a long apprenticeship in long-distance trading and by the experience of living in one of the most highly monetized areas of Europe (because of the economic involvement with the Islamic Mediterranean world), the bourgeoisie too sought to escape the confines of the small Portuguese market. To the extent that they lacked the capital, they found it readily available from the Genoese who, for reasons of their own having to do with their rivalry with Venice, were ready to finance the Portuguese. And the potential conflict of the indigenous and foreign bourgeoisie was muted by the willingness of the Genoese to assimilate into Portuguese culture over time.

Finally, exploration and the consequent trade currents provided job outlets for the urban semiproletariat many of whom had fled to the towns because of the increased exploitation consequent upon the seigniorial crisis. Once again, a potential for internal disorder was minimized by the external expansion.

And if these conjunctures of will and possibility were not enough, Portugal was blessed by the best possible geographic location for the enterprise, best possible both because of its jutting out into the Atlantic and toward the south but also because of the convergence of favorable oceanic currents. It does not seem surprising thus, in retrospect, that Portugal made the plunge.

There is one last issue we must confront before we can proceed with the main part of the book. Thus far we have been concerned with explaining what it was that led Europe to the brink of creating a capitalist world-economy. Since our emphasis will be on how capitalism is only feasible within the framework of a world-economy and not within that of a world-empire, we must explore briefly why this should be so. The apt comparison is of Europe and China, which had approximately the same total population from the thirteenth to sixteenth centuries.135 As Pierre Chaunu elegantly states:

That Christopher Columbus and Vasco da Gama . . . weren’t Chinese, . . . is something which is worth . . . some moments of reflection. After all, at the end of the 15th century, insofar as the historical literature permits us to understand it, the Far-East as an entity comparable to the Mediterranean . . . is in no way inferior, superficially at least, to the far-west of the Eurasian continent.136

In no way inferior? This requires the traditional comparison of technologies, and here the scholars are divided. For Lynn White, Jr., Europe expanded in the sixteenth century because Europe outstripped the rest of the world in the technology of agriculture as early as the ninth century A.D.:

Between the first half of the 6th century and the end of the 9th century Northern Europe created or received a series of inventions which quickly coalesced into an entirely novel system of agriculture. In terms of a peasant’s labor, this was by far the most productive the world has seen. [White is referring to the heavy plough, the three-field rotation system, open fields for cattle, the modern harness and horseshoe]. . . . As the various elements in this new system were perfected and diffused, more food became available, and population rose. . . . And the new productivity of each northern peasant enabled more of them to leave the land for the cities, industry and commerce.137

White also argues that northern Europe pulled ahead in military technology in the eighth century and in industrial production in the eleventh. If one asks why this should be so, White attributes this to the profound upheaval of the barbarian invasions, to which the West presumably had a Toynbeean creative reaction.138

Other scholars however disagree on the factual assessment. Take military technology. Carlo Cipolla argues:

It is likely that Chinese guns were at least as good as Western guns, if not better, up to the beginning of the 15th century. However, in the course of the 15th century, European technology made noticeable progress. . . . European artillery was incomparably more powerful than any kind of cannon ever made in Asia, and it is not difficult to find, in [ 16th century] texts echoes of the mixture of terror and surprise that arose at the appearance of European ordnance.139

Similarly, Joseph Needham, who is still in the midst of his monumental account of the history of Chinese science and technology, dates the moment of European technological and industrial advantage over China only at 1450 A.D.140 What accounts for the European surge forward? Not one thing, says Needham, but “an organic whole, a packet of change.”

The fact is that in the spontaneous autochthonous development of Chinese society no drastic change parallel to the Renaissance and the “scientific revolution” of the West occurred at all. I often like to sketch the Chinese evolution as represented by a relatively slowly rising curve, noticeably running at a much higher level than Europe between, say, the 2nd and 15th centuries A.D. But then after the scientific renaissance had begun in the West with the Galilean revolution, with what one might call the discovery of the basic technique of scientific discovery itself, then the curve of science and technology in Europe begins to rise in a violent, almost exponential manner, overtaking the level of the Asian societies. . . . This violent disturbance is now beginning to right itself.141

Some scholars insist on the crucial role of the development of the rudder in Europe in the fifteenth century.142 But Needham argues the existence of a rudder in China since ± first century A.D., an invention probably diffused from China to Europe in the twelfth century A.D.143

If Needham’s account of Chinese technological competence and superiority over the West until the latter’s sudden surge forward is correct, then it is even more striking that Chinese and Portuguese overseas exploration began virtually simultaneously, but that after a mere 28 years the Chinese pulled back into a continental shell and ceased all further attempts. Not for lack of success, either. The seven voyages of the eunuch-admiral Cheng Ho between 1405 and 1433 were a great success. He traveled the breadth of the Indian Ocean from Java to Ceylon to East Africa in his seven voyages, bringing back tribute and exotica to the Chinese court, which was highly appreciative. The voyages ceased when Cheng Ho died in 1434. Furthermore, when, in 1479, Wang Chin, also a eunuch, interested in launching a military expedition to Annam, applied to the archives to consult Cheng Ho’s papers on Annam, he was refused access. The papers were suppressed, as if to blot out the very memory of Cheng Ho.144

The origins of the expeditions and the causes of their cession are equally unclear. It seems to be the case that they were constantly opposed by the official bureaucracy of Confucian mandarins.145 The question is why. They seem, on the contrary, to have been supported by the Emperor. How else could they have been launched? Further evidence is found by T’ien-Tsê Chang in the fact that, at the beginning of the fifteenth century, the function of the Bureau of Trading Junks, a state institution since the eighth century A.D., was shifted from that of collecting customs (which now became a provincial function) to that of transmitting tribute, which was to be sure of considerable importance in the era of Cheng Ho. Chang asks of the decentralization of customs collections, which presumably permitted lowered barriers in some regions: “[Did not the Emperor] have an eye to encouraging foreign trade the importance of which to China was only too evident?”146

Only too evident, yet soon encouragement ceased. Why? For William Willetts, this has something to do with the Weltanschauung of the Chinese. They lacked, it is argued, a sort of colonizing mission precisely because, in their arrogance, they were already the whole of the world.147 In addition, Willetts sees two more immediate explanations for the cessation of exploration: the “pathological hatred felt by Confucian officialdom toward the eunuchs”148 and the “drain on Treasury funds occasioned by the fitting-out of overseas missions.”149 The latter seems a strange reason, since the drain would presumably have been compensated by the income colonial enterprises might have generated. At least so it seemed to European treasuries of the same epoch.

There are other explanations which argue in terms of alternative foci of political attention diverting the initial interest in Indian Ocean exploration. For example G. F. Hudson argues that the removal northward of the capital, from Nanking to Peking in 1421, which was the consequence of the growing menace of the Mongol nomad barbarians, may have diverted imperial attention.150 Boxer sees the distraction as having been the menace from the east in the Wako or Japanese piratical marauding bands that preyed on the coast of China.151 M. A. P. Meilink-Roelofsz suggests that the pull of withdrawal may have been abetted by the push of expulsion by Moslem traders in the Indian Ocean.152

Even if all these things are true, it does not seem enough. Why was there not the internal motivation that would have treated these external difficulties as setbacks rather than as definitive obstacles? Was it, as some writers have suggested, that China simply did not want to expand?153 Pierre Chaunu gives us a clue when he suggests that one of the things that was lacking to China was a lack of “groups with convergent wills” to expand.154 This is more telling, since we remember that in Portugal what is striking is the parallel interests in overseas exploration and expansion shown by varied social groups. Let us review therefore the ways in which the European and Chinese world differed.

There is first a significant difference in agronomy. We discussed the emphasis on meat consumption in Europe, an emphasis which increased with the “crisis” of the fourteenth century. And while meat consumption for the mass of the population would later decline from the sixteenth to the nineteenth century, this did not necessarily mean a decline in the use of land for cattle rather than for grain. The absolute size of the upper classes going up from the sixteenth century on in Europe because of the dramatic rise in population, the same land area might have been used for meat. This would not be inconsistent with a relative decline in meat consumption by the lower classes, who would obtain their grains by import from peripheral areas as well as by more intensive cultivation in western Europe as the result of technological advance.

China by contrast was seeking a stronger agricultural base by developing rice production in the southeastern parts of the country. The emphasis on cattle in Europe led to the extensive use of animal muscular power as an engine of production. Rice is far more fruitful in calories per acre but far more demanding of manpower.

Thus, Chaunu notes, European use of animal power means that “European man possessed in the 15th century a motor, more or less five times as powerful as that possessed by Chinese man, the next most favored in the world at the time of the discoveries.”155
But even more important than this technological advance for our problem is the implication of this different relationship of man to the land. As Chaunu puts it:

The European wastes space. Even at the demographic lowpoint of the beginning of the 15th century, Europe lacked space. . . . But if Europe lacks space, China lacks men. . . .

The Western “take-off” occurs seemingly at the same date (11th-13th centuries) as the Chinese ‘take-off of rice-production, hut it is infinitely more revolutionary, to the extent that it condemns the great Mediterranean area to the conquest of the Earth. . . .

In every way, the Chinese failure of the 15th century results less from a relative paucity of means than of motivations. The principal motivation remains the need, often subconscious, for space.156

Here at least we have a plausible explanation of why China might not want to expand overseas. China had in fact been expanding, but internally, extending its rice production within its frontiers. Europe’s “internal Americas” in the fifteenth century were quickly exhausted, given an agronomy that depended on more space. Neither men nor societies engage in difficult tasks gratuitously. Exploration and colonization are difficult tasks.

One last consideration might be that, for some reason, the fifteenth century marked for China what Van der Sprenkel calls a “counter-colonization,” a shift of population out of the rice-producing areas.157 While this may have relieved the “over-population,” a term always relative to social definition, it may have weakened China’s industrializing potential without the compensating advantages of a colonial empire. The “take-off” may have thus collapsed.

There is a second great difference between Europe and China. China is a vast empire, as is the Turco-Moslem world at this time. Europe is not. It is a nascent world-economy, composed of small empires, nation-states, and city-states. There are many ways in which this difference was important.

Let us start with the arguments that Weber makes about the implications of the two forms of disintegration of an empire: feudalization, as in western Europe, and prebendalization, as in China.158 He argues that a newly centralized state is more likely to emerge from a feudal than from a prebendal system. Weber’s case is as follows:

The occidental seigneurie, like the oriental Indian, developed through the disintegration of the central authority of the patrimonial state power—the disintegration of the Carolingian Empire in the Occident, the disintegration of the Caliphs and the Maharadja or Great Moguls in India. In the Carolingian Empire, however, the new stratum developed on the basis of a rural subsistence economy. [Hence, it was presumably at a lower level of economic development than its oriental counterparts.] Through oath-bound vassalage, patterned after the war following, the stratum of lords was joined to the king and interposed itself between the freemen and the king. Feudal relations were also to be found in India, but they were not decisive for the formation either of a nobility or landlordism.

In India, as in the Orient generally, a characteristic seigniory developed rather out of tax farming [presumably because the central power was still strong enough to insist on taxes and the economy developed enough and with enough money-circulation to furnish the basic surplus for taxation; as compared with the presumably less developed Occident of the early Middle Ages] and the military and tax prebends of a far more bureaucratic state.

The oriental seigniory therefore remained in essence, a “prebend” and did not become a ‘fief’; not feudalization, but prebendalization of the patrimonial state occurred. The comparable, though undeveloped, occidental parallel is not the medieval fief but the purchase of offices and prebends during the papal seicento or during the days of the French Noblesse de Robe . . . . [Also] a purely military factor is important for the explanation of the different development of East and West. In Europe the horseman was technically a paramount force of feudalism. In India, in spite of their numbers, horsemen were relatively less important and efficient than the foot soldiers who held a primary role in the armies from Alexander to the Moguls.159

The logic of Weber’s argument runs something like this: A technical factor (the importance of horsemen) leads to the strength of the intermediate warriors vis-à-vis the center during the process of disintegration of an empire. Hence the new social form that emerges is feudalism rather than a prebendal state, in which the center is relatively stronger than in a feudal system. Also, the economy of a feudal system is less developed than that of a prebendal system. (But is this cause or consequence? Weber is not clear.) In the short run, feudalization is obviously better from the standpoint of landlords, since it gives them more power (and more income?).

In the long run, however, a prebendal land-controlling class can better resist the growth of a truly centralized monarchy than a feudal landowning class, because the feudal value system can be used by the king, insofar as he can make himself the apex of a single hierarchical system of feudal relations (it took the Capetians several centuries to accomplish this), to build a system of loyalty to himself which, once constructed, can simply shed the personal element and become loyalty to a nation of which the king is the incarnation. Prebendalism, being a far more truly contractual system than feudalism, cannot be conned by such mystical ties. (In which case, incidentally and in passing, we could see the growing prebendalism of eighteenth century France as regressive, and the French Revolution as an attempt to recoup the regression.)

Joseph Levenson, in a book devoted to the question, why not China?, comes up with an answer not too dissimilar from that of Weber:

Ideally and logically, feudalism as a sociological “ideal type” is blankly opposed to capitalism. But historically and chronologically it gave it stimulation. The very absence of feudal restraints in China put a greater obstacle in the way of the expansion of capitalism (and capitalistic world expansion) than their presence in Europe. For the non-feudal bureaucratic society of China, a self-charging, persisting society, just insofar as it was ideally more congenial than feudal society to elementary capitalist forms, accommodated and blanketed the embryonic capitalism, and ruined its revolutionary potential. Is it any wonder, then, that even in Portugal, one of the least of the capitalist powers in the end, a social process quite the reverse of China’s should release the force of expansion instead of contracting it? It was a process in Portugal and Western Europe generally, of a protocapitalist extrication from feudalism and erosion of feudalism. And this was a process quite different from the persistence in China of a non-feudal, bureaucratic society, a depressant of feudalism—and of capitalism, too.160

Here we have an argument we shall encounter frequently: Initial receptivity of a system to new forms does not lead to gradual continuous change but rather to the stifling of the change, whereas initial resistance often leads later on to a breakthrough.

Feudalization brought with it the dismantling of the imperial structure, whereas prebendalization maintained it. Power and income was distributed in the one case to ever more autonomous landlords, rooted in an area, linked to a given peasantry, and in the other to an empire-wide stratum, deliberately not linked to the local area, semi-universalistic in recruitment but hence dependent upon the favor of the center. To strengthen the center of an empire was a colossal job, one only begun in the twentieth century under the Chinese Communist Party. To create centralized units in smaller areas was impossible as long as the center maintained any coherence, which it did under the Ming and then the successor Manchu dynasty; whereas creating centralized units in a feudal system was, as we know, feasible if difficult. Weber outlined the reasons quite clearly:

A general result of oriental patrimonialism with its pecuniary prebends was that, typically, only military conquest or religious revolutions could shatter the firm structure of prebendary interests, thus creating new power distributions and in turn new economic conditions. Any attempt at internal innovation, however, was wrecked by the aforementioned obstacles. Modern Europe, as noted, is a great historical exception to this because, above all, pacification of a unified empire was lacking. We may recall that, in the Warring States, the very stratum of state prebendiaries who blocked administrative rationalization in the world empire were once its most powerful promoters. Then, the stimulus was gone. Just as competition for markets compelled the rationalization of private enterprise, so competition for political power compelled the rationalization of state economy and economic policy both in the Occident and in the China of the Warring States. In the private economy, cartellization weakens ration?’ calculation which is the soul of capitalism; among states, power monopoly prostrates rational management in administration, finance, and economic policy. . . . In addition to the aforementioned difference in the Occident, there were strong and independent forces. With these princely power could ally itself in order to shatter traditional fetters; or, under very special conditions, these forces could use their own military power to throw off the bonds of patrimonial power.161

There is another factor to consider in envisaging the relationship of the regional center or the forward point of a system with the periphery in a world-economy versus an empire. An empire is responsible for administering and defending a huge land and population mass. This drains attention, energy, and profits which could be invested in capital development. Take for example the issue of the Japanese Wako and their presumed impact on Chinese expansion. In principle, the Wako were less of a problem to China than the Turks to Europe. But when the Turks advanced in the east, there was no European emperor to recall the Portuguese expeditions. Portugal was not diverted from its overseas adventures to defend Vienna, because Portugal had no political obligation to do so, and there was no machinery by which it could be induced to do so, nor any Europe-wide social group in whose interests such diversion would be.

Nor would expansion have seemed as immediately beneficial to a European emperor as it did to a Portuguese king. We discussed how the Chinese emperor may have seen, and the Chinese bureaucracy did see, Cheng Ho’s expeditions as a drain on the treasury, whereas the need for increasing the finances of the state was one of the very motives of European expansion. An empire cannot be conceived of as an entrepreneur as can a state in a world-economy. For an empire pretends to be the whole. It cannot enrich its economy by draining from other economies, since it is the only economy. (This was surely the Chinese ideology and was probably their belief.) One can of course increase the share of the Emperor in the distribution of the economy. But this means the state seeks not entrepreneurial profits but increased tribute. And the very form of tribute may become economically self-defeating, as soon as political strength of the center wanes, because under such circumstances, the payment of “tribute” may be a disguised form of trade disadvantageous to the empire.162

There is a link too between military technology and the presence of an imperial framework. Carlo Cipolla raises the question as to why the Chinese did not adopt the military technological advantages they saw the Portuguese had. He suggests the following explanation: “Fearing internal bandits no less than foreign enemies and internal uprisings no less than foreign invasion, the Imperial Court did its best to limit both the spread of the knowledge of gunnery and the proliferation of artisans versed in the art.”163 In Europe with its multiplicity of sovereignties, there was no hope of limiting the spread of arms. In China, apparently, it was still possible, and hence the centralized system backed off a technological advance essential in the long run for the maintenance of its power. Once again, the imperial form may have served as a structural constraint, this time on technological development.

One last puzzle remains. There emerged in China at this time an ideology of individualism, that of the Wang Yang-ming school, which William T. Du Bary sees as comparable to humanist doctrines in the West, and which he calls a “near-revolution in thought,” that however failed “to develop fully.”164 Did not individualism as an ideology signal the strength of an emergent bourgeoisie, and sustain it against traditionalist forces?

Quite the contrary, it seems, according to Roland Mousnier. His analysis of the social conflicts of Ming China argues that individualism was the weapon of the Confucian mandarins, the bureaucratic class which was so “modern” in outlook, against the eunuchs, who were “entrepreneurial” and “feudal” at the same time, and who represented the “nationalist” thrust of Ming China.165 Mousnier argues as follows:

To advance their career [in Ming China], a large part of the educated classes of middle-class origin voluntarily became castrates. Because of their education, they were able to play a preponderant role and the Empire was in reality ruled by these eunuchs.

Once having obtained high posts, they aided their families, created for themselves a clientele by distributing offices and fiefs, became veritable powers within the Empire itself. The large role played by eunuchs seems to be therefore a function of the rise of the bourgeoisie. The princes of the blood and the men of importance [les grands] sought to defend themselves by creating a clientele also made up of educated men of middle-class origin whom they pushed forward in the civil service. . . . [This latter group] were sometimes disciples of Wang Yang-ming and invoked his precepts to oppose the eunuchs who were established in power. The eunuchs were for Chu Hi, defender of tradition and authority [to which the eunuchs had, at this point, primary access]. These struggles were all the more serious since princes of the blood, men of importance, and eunuchs all had a power base as land-controllers [maîtres du sol]. The Mings had sought to reinforce their position by creating a sort of feudalism of relatives and supporters. . . . The victim of this state of affairs was the peasant. The expenses of the State grew ceaselessly.166

So, of course, did they in Europe, but in Europe, these expenses supported a nascent bourgeoisie and an aristocracy that sought ultimately, as we shall see, to save itself by becoming bourgeois, as the bourgeois were becoming aristocratic. In Ming China, the ideology that served the western bourgeoisie to achieve its ultimate conquest of power was directed against this very bourgeoisie who (having achieved some power too early?) were cast in the role of defenders of tradition and authority. There is much that remains to be elucidated here, but it casts doubt on the too simple correlation of the ideology of individualism and the rise of capitalism. It surely casts doubt on any causal statement that would make the emergence of such an ideology primary.

The argument on China comes down to the following. It is doubtful that there was any significant difference between Europe and China in the fifteenth century on certain base points: population, area, state of technology (both in agriculture and in naval engineering). To the extent that there were differences it would be hard to use them to account for the magnitude of the difference of development in the coming centuries. Furthermore the difference in value systems seems both grossly exaggerated and, to the extent it existed, once again not to account for the different consequences. For, as we tried to illustrate, idea systems are capable of being used in the service of contrary interests, capable of being associated with quite different structural thrusts. The tenants of the primacy of values, in their eagerness to refute materialist arguments, seem guilty themselves of assuming a far more literal correspondence of ideology and social structure (though they invert the causal order) than classical Marxism ever was.

The essential difference between China and Europe reflects once again the conjuncture of a secular trend with a more immediate economic cycle. The long-term secular trend goes back to the ancient empires of Rome and China, the ways in which and the degree to which they disintegrated. While the Roman framework remained a thin memory whose medieval reality was mediated largely by a common church, the Chinese managed to retain an imperial political structure, albeit a weakened one. This was the difference between a feudal system and a world-empire based on a prebendal bureaucracy. China could maintain a more advanced economy in many ways than Europe as a result of this. And quite possibly the degree of exploitation of the peasantry over a thousand years was less.

To this given, we must add the more recent agronomic thrusts of each, of Europe toward cattle and wheat, and of China toward rice. The latter requiring less space but more men, the secular pinch hit the two systems in different ways. Europe needed to expand geographically more than did China. And to the extent that some groups in China might have found expansion rewarding, they were restrained by the fact that crucial decisions were centralized in an imperial framework that had to concern itself first and foremost with short-run maintenance of the political equilibrium of its world-system.

So China, if anything seemingly better placed prima facie to move forward to capitalism in terms of already having an extensive state bureaucracy, being further advanced in terms of the monetization of the economy and possibly of technology as well, was nonetheless less well placed after all. It was burdened by an imperial political structure. It was burdened by the “rationality” of its value system which denied the state the leverage for change (had it wished to use it) that European monarchs found in the mysticality of European feudal loyalties.

We are now ready to proceed with our argument. As of 1450, the stage was set in Europe but not elsewhere for the creation of a capitalist world-economy. This system was based on two key institutions, a “world”-wide division of labor and bureaucratic state machineries in certain areas. We shall treat each successively and globally. Then we shall look at the three zones of the world-economy each in turn: what we shall call the semiperiphery, the core, and the periphery. We treat them in this order largely for reasons of historical sequence which will become clear in the exposition of the argument. It will then be possible to review the totality of the argument at a more abstract level. We choose to do this at the end rather than at the beginning not only in the belief that the case will be more convincing once the empirical material has been presented but also in the conviction that the final formulation of theory should result from the encounter with empirical reality, provided that the encounter has been informed by a basic perspective that makes it possible to perceive this reality.

Notes

1 S. N. Eisenstadt, “Empires,” International Encyclopedia of the Social Sciences, (New York: Macmillan and Free Press, 1968), V, 41.
2 A discussion of the internal contradictions of empires which account for their decline is to be found in S. N. Eisenstadt, “The Causes of Disintegration and Fall of Empires: Sociological and Historical Analyses,” Diogenes, No. 34, Summer 1961, 82–107.
3 And it was a mark of political wisdom to realize this. The first such sign of wisdom was the refusal of Venice in the thirteenth century to take over the political burdens of the Byzantine Empire. Mario Abrate observes:
“The political organism which emerged from the fourth Crusade, the Eastern Latin Empire, placed its entire hope of survival on the continuity of its links with the West.
“Venice, the naval power which had supported the Crusade, and furnished the naval means to conduct it, did not wish to burden itself with the political governance of the Empire (Doge Enrico Dandolo refused in fact the throne that was offered to him) but assured itself, and that almost automatically, of the monopoly of naval communications and markets for all the territories controlled by the new Latin Dominion.” “Creta, colonia veneziana nei secoli XIII–XV,” Economia e storia, IV, 3, lugl.-sett. 1957, 251.
4 Frederic C. Lane, “The Economic Meaning of War & Protection” in Venice and History (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins Press, 1966), 389.
5 Ferdinand Fried, Le tournant de l’économie mondiale (1942), cited in Fernand Braudel, La Méditerranée et le monde mediterranéen à l’époque de Philippe II, 2e édition revue et augmentée (Paris: Lib. Armand Colin, 1966), I, 339.
6 See Braudel, La Méditerranée, I, 339–340. As for Europe in the fifteenth century, Garrett Mattingly argues that it still required smaller-scale units: “At the beginning of the fifteenth century Western society still lacked the resources to organize stable states on the national scale. On the scale of the Italian city state it could do so. Internally the smaller distances to be overcome brought the problems of transport and communication, and consequently the problems of collecting taxes and maintaining the central authority, within the range of practical solution.” Renaissance Diplomacy (London: Jonathan Cape, 1955), 59.
But, says Mattingly, this changes by the following century: “[I]n terms of commercial intercourse, or military logistics, or even of diplomatic communication, European distances were perceptibly greater in the fourteenth than in the sixteenth century. . . .” [Ibid., p. 60].
7 “When one says ‘world’, with reference to the 16th century . . . in fact, usually one means Europe by the world. . . . On a world scale, geographically speaking, the Renaissance economy is a regional aspect, no doubt primordial, but nonetheless regional.” Michel Mollat, “Y a-t-il une économie de la Renaissance?”, in Actes du Colloque sur la Renaissance (Paris: Lib. Philosophique J. Vrin, 1958), 40.
8 “Before the constitution of a truly world economy (still uncompleted in the twentieth century), each nucleus of population is found in the center of a communications network. . . . Each of these worlds corresponds . . . to a nucleus with a high population density. It is bounded by deserts, by seas, by virgin lands. The case of Europe and that of China are particularly clear.” Pierre Chaunu, L’expansion européenee du XIIIe au XVe siècle, Collection Nouvelle Clio, No. 26 (Paris: Presses Universitaires de France, 1969), 255.
9 Marc Bloch attacked the basic confusion head on: “Clearly from the fact that a transaction stipulates a price in monetary equivalents or in kind, one cannot legitimately deduce, without more precise evidence, that the payment was really made or not in cash. . . .
Just as the political institutions of feudalism, characterized by a profound weakening of the State, presumed nonetheless the memory and bore the traces of a past when the State had been strong, so the economy, even when exchange had become minimal, never ended its attachment to a monetary schema, whose principles were inherited from preceding civilizations.” “Economie-nature ou économie-argent: un pseudo-dilemme,” Annales d’histoire sociale, I, 1939, 13–14. Bloch further states: “European feudalism should therefore be seen as the outcome of the violent dissolution of older societies. It would in fact be unintelligible without the great upheaval of the Germanic invasions which, by forcibly uniting two societies originally at very different stages of development, disrupted both of them. . . .” Feudal Society (Chicago, Illinois: Univ. of Chicago Press, 1961), 443.
On the issue of the “money-economy,” see also M. M. Postan: “Thus from the point of view of English history, and even from that of medieval and Anglo-Saxon history, the rise of the money economy in the sense of its first appearance has no historical meaning. Money was in use when documented history began, and its rise cannot be adduced as an explanation of any later phenomenon.” “The Rise of a Money Economy,” Economic History Review, XIV, 2, 1944, 127.
10 Daniel Thorner, “L’économie paysan: concept pour l’histoire économique,” Annales E.S.C., XIX, 3, mai-juin 1964, 422.
11 B. H. Slicher van Bath, The Agrarian History of Western Europe, A.D. 500–1850 (New York: St. Martin’s, 1963), 24. The author notes that about 1850, a second phase of indirect agricultural production begins, one in which the majority of the population is no longer engaged in agricultural production.
12 Karl Bücher warns us of the confusion that the world “merchant” causes in the medieval context: “Recent literature relating to the origin of the constitution of German towns has overlooked the very wide significance of the word Kaufmann and imagined that the innumerable towns existing within the German Empire towards the close of the Middle Ages, from Cologne and Augsburg down to Medebach and Radolfzell, were inhabited by merchants in the modern sense of the term, that is, by a specialized class of professional tradesmen who are as a rule still represented as wholesale merchants. All economic history revolts against such a conception. What did these people deal in, and in what did they make payment for their wares? Besides, the very terms used are opposed to it. The most prominent characteristic of the professional merchant in his relation to the public is not his custom of buying, but of selling. Yet the chapman (Kaufmann) of the Middle Ages is named from the word for buying—kaufen. In the State records of Otto III, for Dortmund from 990 to 1000 A.D. the emptores Trotmanniae, whose municipal laws, like those of Cologne and Mainz, are said to serve as a model for other cities, are spoken of in the same connection as mercatores or negotiatores in other records. If the abbot of Reichenau in the year 1075 can with a stroke of the pen transform the peasants of Allensbach and their descendants into merchants (ut ipsi et eorum posteri sint mercatores), no possible ingenuity of interpretation can explain this if we have in mind professional tradesmen. That in point of fact merchant meant any man who sold wares in the market, no matter whether he himself had produced them or bought the greater part of them, is evident, for example, from an unprinted declaration of the Council of Frankfurt in 1420 regarding the toll called Marktrecht (in Book No. 3 of the Municipal Archives, Fol. 80). There we find at the beginning that this toll is to be paid by ‘every merchant who stands on the street with his merchandise, whatsoever it be.’ Then follow, specified in detail, the individual ‘merchants’ or the ‘merchandise’ affected by this toll. From the lengthy list the following instances may be given: dealers in old clothes, pastry-books, food-vendors, rope-makers, hazelnut-sellers, egg and cheese-sellers with their carts, poultry-vendors who carry about their baskets on their backs, strangers having in their possession more than a matter of cheese, cobblers, money changers, bakers who use the market-stalls, strangers with breadcarts, geese, wagons of witch (fodder), straw, hay, cabbages, all vendors of linen, flax, hemp, yarn, who sell their wares upon the street. Here we have a confused medley of small tradesmen of the town, artisans and peasants. That buyers as well as sellers on the market were designated as Kaufleute (merchants) is evident from numerous records; in fact, passages might be cited in which, when the merchant is spoken of, it is the buyer that seems to be chiefly meant.” Industrial Evolution (New York: Holt, 1901), 117–118, fn. 23.
13 There was “long distance” trade and very local trade, but no “intermediate” trade. Carlo Cipolla gives this explanation: “A curious mixture of universalism and particularism dominated the scene. It was economically convenient to get precious silk from China or precious rugs from the Near East, but it was usually not convenient to get poorer commodities from a few miles away. Since mass transportation was impossible for technical reasons, freight costs remained relatively high. Particularly when transportation by water route was impossible, long distance trade had to rely mainly, if not exclusively, on precious objects. For its basic daily needs any community had always to be as self-sufficient and self-sustaining as possible. The interlocal division of labor had to rest mainly on precious objects or other things that by no means could be made locally or were not susceptible of easy substitution. And trade had to rest heavily on aristocratic consumption of luxury goods.” Money, Prices, and Civilization in the Mediterranean World: Fifth to Seventeenth Century (New York: Gordian Press, 1967), 57.
14 See Paul Sweezy: “[T]he rise of the towns, which was fairly general throughout western Europe, did a great deal more than merely offer a haven of refuge to those serfs who fled the manor; it also altered the position of those who remained behind. . . . Just as wages must rise in a low-wage area, so concessions had to be made to serfs when they had the possibility of moving to towns.” “The Transition from Feudalism to Capitalism,” Science and Society, XIV, 2, Spring 1950, 145. It might be noted that in the course of this long debate between Sweezy and Maurice Dobb, in which they disagree about a long list of things, Dobb notes on this point: “Incidentally, I agree entirely with the important consideration which Sweezy stresses that it was not so much the magnitude of the flight to the towns which was significant, but that the threat of it (accompanied perhaps by no more than a small movement) might suffice to force the lords into making concessions, severely weakening to feudalism.” “Reply by Maurice Dobb,” Science and Society, XIV, 2, Spr. 1950, 160.
15 “There is no doubt that forms nearest to feudalism appeared in all their force, both in Byzantium and in the Moslem world, at moments of commercial expansion and not at those of decline. The same thing is undoubtedly true for the Russian and Polish worlds, with the particular feature that the men who materially organized the international trade were by and large foreigners (Hanseatic merchants), while the indigenous landowners took care of producing and assembling the objects of commerce. The profits were divided between the two groups, thus assisting the rise of the seigniorial class by enabling it to acquire the means of dominating the peasants.” Claude Cahen, “A propos de la discussion sur la féodalité,” La Pensée, No. 68, juil.–août 1956, 95–96.
16 Cahen, ibid. p. 96. A. B. Hibbert similarly argues that: “Both fact and theory suggest that in earlier medieval times trade was by no means a solvent of feudal society, but that it was a natural product of that society and that feudal rulers up to a point favored its growth. . . . Feudalism could never dispense with merchants. . . . There were two reasons why. . . . They had to provision large private and public establishments, and they wished to gain profit from trade and industry, either by becoming traders themselves or by tapping the wealth produced by trade and industry through levies and charges upon goods or upon those who produced and distributed them.” “The Origins of the Medieval Town Patriciate,” Past & Present, No. 3, Feb., 1953, 17.
Hibbert further discusses the two sources of dominant strata in the towns:
“Two processes are involved in the formation of a patriciate, the internal transformation of an old dominant class and the recruitment of new families from the more successful merchants and artisans, who were often immigrants and descendants of immigrants [p. 23].”
“[This explanation] allows for a source of mercantile capital additional to the windfalls of petty pedlars and porters. Finally it will allow for the idea that the novel techniques or fresh markets might first be exploited by new men who in order to expand relied on association with wealthy men of older standing so that capital was gradually shifted from an older to a new use [p. 26].”
17 Owen Lattimore, “The Frontier in History”, in Relazioni del X Congresso de Scienze Storiche, I: Metodologia—Problemi generali—Scienze ausiliare della storia (Firenze, G. C. Sansoni, 1955), 124–125.
18 Edouard Perroy, “A l’origine d’une économie contractée: les crises du XIVe siècle,” Annales E.S.C., IV, 2, avr.-juin 1949, 168. One piece of evidence that Perroy may be right about saturation of population is the fact that English archives indicate that in the Middle Ages, a working day in agriculture in fact meant “from sunrise to noon.” See Slicher van Bath, Agrarian History, p. 183. In fact Ester Boserup derives from this fact the conclusion that a significant aspect of modern agricultural development is “a gradual lengthening of working hours in agriculture.” The Conditions of Economic Growth (Chicago, Illinois: Aldine, 1965), 53.
19 Perroy, ibid., p. 182.
20 Douglass C. North & Robert Paul Thomas, “An Economic Theory of the Growth of the Western World,” Economic History Review, 2nd ser., XXIII, 1, Apr. 1970, 12–13. B. H. Slicher van Bath points to a similar pressure towards “stagnation.” He says: “Despite the diminution of the cultivated area and a reduction in the factors of production—which must have indicated a great diminution in the total production of cereals—the price of cereals did not rise in proportion to other merchandise. They even showed a slight tendency to go down. Which indicates that consumption regressed further than production.” “Les problèmes fondamentaux de la societé pré-industrielle en Europe occidentale,” Afdeling Agrarische Geschiedenis Bijdragen, No. 12, 1965, 40.
How great the “stagnation” was is itself an issue. Eugen A. Kominsky doubts that the description is valid other than for England and, to some extent, France. See “Peut-on considérer le XIVe et le XVe siècles comme l’époque de la décadence de l’économie européenne?” Studi in onore di Armando Sapori (Milano: Istituto Edit. Cisalpino, 1957), I, 562–563.
21 Michael Postan’s description is also close to that of Perroy. See M. M. Postan, “Some Economic Evidence of Declining Population in the Later Middle Ages,” Economic History Review, 2nd ser., II, 3, 1950, 221–246.
22 Marc Bloch supports Hilton’s argument when he warns us against exaggerating the extent of decline in seigniorial income which comes from overestimating the role of cash-flow. It is true that to the extent that rents were fixed, a devaluation of silver would in fact mean an increment to the tenant, provided the tenant paid in silver. But these provisos are bothersome. Bloch reminds us that at this time there was “a terrible famine of metallic money (to such an extent that in England, some peasants, unable to procure the silver needed to pay their rents, themselves asked to pay them in kind).” Seigneurie française et manoir anglais (Paris: Lib. Armand Colin, 1960), 110. Hence, says Bloch, there resulted a “lower limit [palier] of prices advantageous, obviously, for those who earned fixed rents.”
23 R. H. Hilton, “Y eut-il une crise générale de la féodalité?” Annales E.S.C., VI, 1, janv.-mars 1951, 25.
24 Ibid., p. 27.
25 Ibid., p. 28.
26 R. H. Hilton, “Peasant Movements in England Before 1381”, in E. M. Carus-Wilson, ed., Essays in Economic History (New York: St. Martin’s, 1966), II, 79. Hilton points out that rent increases, in the case of poor peasants, might cost him his reserve for the winter. For rich peasants, the result was different: “More irritating to them must have been the hindrances to accumulation, rather than the fear of starvation [p. 86].” Furthermore, legislation designed to hold down costs by freezing wages benefited large landowners more than rich peasants. “Now a large farm is useless without the hands to till it, so the tenant was prepared to pay high prices for the labour he could not get otherwise. In so doing he would also tend to put up the price of labour for the manorial lords. But there was no need for the lords to suffer from the working of economic laws because they had at their disposal the political power which enabled them to circumvent them. They still had reserves of serf labour, and they controlled the distribution of such available wage labour as there was, in their capacity as Justices of Labourers, or of the Peace [p. 88].”
27 Eugen A. Kosminsky, “The Evolution of Feudal Rent in England from the XIth to the XVth Centuries,” Past & Present, No. 7, April 1955, 32. He continues: “The growth of feudal exploitation began to exhaust peasant agriculture and at the same time to whittle down the productive forces of feudal society, destroying the conditions for reproduction of the labor force. . . . This long drawn-out struggle . . . found its clearest expression in the rising of 1381. . . .”
28 Slicher van Bath, A.A.G.B., No. 12, p. 190. He describes the mechanism in this way: “The peasants felt discontented when they saw the low prices brought by agricultural produce, and contrasted them with the high prices and relatively high wages that obtained in industry. Often some further addition to the taxes, which the government or landowner thought might still be borne, provided the spark that set long-smouldering resentment aflame.”
29 Maurice Dobb, Papers on Capitalism, Development, and Planning (New York: International Publ., 1967), 11.
30 See for example the discussion by Jean-Marie Pesez and Emmanuel Le Roy Ladurie concerning France in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. “Le cas français: vue d’ensemble,” Villages désertés et histoire économique, XIe-XVIIIe siècles (Paris: S.E.V.P.E.N., 1965), 155. They also point out that the search for security may sometimes be forced upon the peasants by nearby towns for strategic considerations (see p. 156). See Carlo Cipolla, Clocks and Culture, 1300–1700 (New York: Walker & Co., 1967a), 115.
31 See the discussion by Georges Duby in “Démographie et villages désertés,” Villages désertés, et histoire economique, XIe-XVIIIe siècles (Paris: S.E.V.P.E.N., 1965), 18–23.
32 Karl Helleiner, “The Population of Europe from the Black Death to the Eve of the Vital Revolution”, in Cambridge Economic History of Europe., IV, E. E. Rich and C. H. Wilson, eds., The Economy of Expanding Europe in the 16th and 17th Centuries (London and New York: Cambridge Univ. Press, 1967), 15. See Duby, Villages désertés, 14, 16; Pesez & Le Roy Ladurie, Villages désertés, 181–183.
33 See Wilhelm Abel, Die Wüstungen des Ausgehenden Mittelalters, 2nd ed. (Stuttgart: Verlag, 1955), 5–12.
34 See Maurice W. Beresford, The Lost Villages of England (London: Lutterworth Press, 1954). Beresford dates the high point of depopulation (both total desertion of villages and reduction of population therein) as between 1440 and 1520 (see p. 166). He considers enclosure to be the single greatest explanation of this phenomenon which he sees as a gradual development: “[D]epopulation came to villages where there was already a good deal of grassland alongside a diminishing number of husband-lands of corn; . . . enclosure and depopulation [are] an aim only slowly achieved. . . . [p. 210].”
35 Pesez and Le Roy Ladurie come up with a figure of 5 to 7% of villages of eastern Languedoc deserted between 1328 and today. As they say: “These figures are not insignificant, but we are far from the 40% rate observed by Abel in Germany, and also from the figures calculated by Mr. Beresford.” Villages désertés, p. 129. The rate differential tends to confirm the agrarian reorganization theme rather than the population decline theme. We know there was considerable difference in agrarian reorganization, and that France, for example, saw the creation of far fewer large domains than either England or Germany. Of course, there may have been differences in the rate of population decline in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, but here we are on weaker grounds, as so much of the evidence is inferential, from precisely such phenomena as deserted villages. Hence, we cannot use this evidence, or we would be involved in circular reasoning.
36 Marc Bloch, Les caractères originaux de l’histoire rurale français (Paris: Lib. Armand Colin, 1961), I, 122.
37 Henri Lefebvre, “Une discussion historique: du féodalisme au capitalisme: observations,” La Pensée, No. 65, janv.-févr. 1956, 22.
38 “The result of this increased pressure was not only to exhaust the goose that laid golden eggs for the castle, but to provoke, from sheer desperation, movement of illegal emigration from the manors. . . . [So] considerable did the problem of fugitives become and so great the hunger for labor, that, despite treaties and mutual promises, an actual competition developed to entice and steal the serfs of a neighboring domain—a competition which . . . involved the making of certain concessions, and the existence of which imposed its own limits on the further increase of feudal exploitation.” Maurice Dobb, Studies in the Development of Capitalism (London: Routledge & Kegan Paul, 1916), 46–47.
39 “In fact the fall in fixed payments, together with the decline in direct management and the necessity to spend money on repairs, significantly affected the financial standing of all lords during [the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries]. Everywhere they appeared to be short of money and on the look-out for outside profit, and for this reason often launched out into careers or adventures which took them away from their estates. However, the various ways of supplementing their incomes, such as taking employ with the more powerful princes who were in search of allies, or the hazardous path of political intrigue and matrimonial alliance, assured the maintenance of nearly all the great aristocratic fortunes.” Georges Duby, Rural Economy and Country Life in the Medieval West (Columbia: Univ. of South Carolina Press, 1968), 330.
40 “[The] ever more pronounced decline in the price of grain compared to rural wages, which were maintained at such a very high level by the competition of town crafts and the spread of textile workers into many country districts of Europe, sealed the fate of all excessively large agricultural enterprises. Indeed it seems as if the eclipse of the demesne and the great decline in direct manorial cultivation occurred in the years after 1380, at any rate in France and England.” Duby, ibid., 311.
An earlier statement of Duby was more cautious: “It seems probable consequently . . . that the large estate in the course of the second half of the 14th and during the 15th century, if it was not notably reduced in size and sometimes on the contrary enlarged, at least lost its cohesion.” “Le grand domaine de la fin du moyen âge en France,” Première Confèrence Internationale d’Histoire Economique, Stockholm, August 1960: Contributions (Paris: Mouton, 1960), 338.
41 “The final establishment of money rent took place in circumstances unprofitable for those who received it. It was to a great extent forced on them, since it was the rise of the popular movement which compelled lords to be more accommodating.” Kosminsky, Past & Present, No. 7, p. 33.
42 See Duby: “We must constantly be on our guard against considering the abandonment and regrouping in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries of all [italics added—I. W.] the fields into a few coherent village territories subject to strict agrarian constraints as signs of economic malaise, agricultural failure or a too sudden decline of the population. On the contrary, these topographical transfers reflect a critical phase in the growth of the cereal economy, postponed for a century or two, but quite comparable in their development and nature to those of which the Ile de France was the scene in the thirteenth century. Thus, in north-western Germania the lords enclosed their woods whose value was increasing. They surrounded them with hedges, shut out the peasants’ swine and henceforth forbade periodic heat burning. The power of the lords enforcing this enclosure, caused the families who in these woodland zones drew much of their subsistence from forest, animal husbandry and related cultivation to change their objectives. They were obliged to alter their way of life and the Waldbauer became an Ackermann, a genuine cultivator settled on permanent fields.” Rural Economy, p. 309.
43 Ibid., p. 315.
44 “The great breeding season of English capitalism was in the early phases of the Hundred Years War, when the exigencies of Royal finance, new experiments in taxation, speculative ventures with wool. the collapse of Italian finance and the breeding of the new cloth industry, all combined to bring into existence a new race of war financiers and commercial speculators, army-purveyors and wool-monopolists. But the race was as short-lived as it was new. The great fortunes were lost as easily as they were made, and the period of reckless finance and gigantic fiscal experiments, passed away with the first stage of war. . . .
The English merchant class responded to the stability and recession of trade in the way of all merchants. They adopted a policy of regulation and restriction, impeding the entry of new recruits into commerce and attempting to share out the available trade. . . . What is sometimes regarded as evidence of a typical medieval regulation is in fact nothing else than instances of fifteenth-century departure from the freer and more speculative conditions of the earlier centuries.” M. M. Postan, “The Fifteenth Century,” Economic History Review, IX, 2, May 1939, 165–166.
45 “We believe that it was not depopulation, but rather the liquidation of the manorial economy, the commutation and the diminution of feudal rent which brought about the improvement of the situation of the peasants and the expansion of simple commercial production which prepared the way for capitalist relations. A moderate reduction of population . . . could only intensify and modify . . . the progress of this development.” Eugen A. Kosminsky, Studi in onore di Armando Sapori, I, p. 567.
46 Marc Bloch, “The Rise of Dependent Cultivation and Seigniorial Institutions” in M. M. Postan, ed., Cambridge Economic History of Europe, I: The Agrarian Life of the Middle Ages (London and New York: Cambridge Univ. Press, 1966), 269.
47 “The rival of the city-state, the territorial state, rich in hopes and in men, showed itself to be more capable of meeting the costs of modern war; it supported mercenary armies, procured the costly material for artillery; it soon would permit itself the great luxury of large-scale maritime warfare. Its rise had been for a long time an irreversible phenomenon.” Braudel, La Méditerranée, II, p. 8.
We must of course be careful not to anticipate. Sir Charles Oman dates the historical break in the art of war as occurring only in 1494. See A History of the Art of War in the Sixteenth Century (London: Methuen, 1937), 30. For Oman the two key “tendencies” [Note well, however, this word] were “the progressive importance of firearms, and (partly in consequence of that progress) the utilization of field entrenchments, which would make cavalry charges less and less practicable [p. 33].” Indeed, some authors go further and suggest that the social impact of the new military technology is exaggerated even for the sixteenth century. See for example H. M. Colvin, “Castles and Government in Tudor England,” English Historical Review, LXXXIII, 1968, 226. Nevertheless, if we remember we are describing trends or tendencies, then we can ascertain a cumulative and continuous impact beginning already in the fourteenth century.
48 “The last two centuries of the Middle Ages, throughout western and central Europe, was an era of rural malaise and of depopulation. . . . The large political constructs of the preceding period . . . appeared provisionally to be unable to fulfill their mission of police and order which was their very reason for being.” Bloch, Caractères originaux, I, pp. 117–118.
49 “Thus the State from this time onward began to acquire that essential element of its supremacy—financial resources incomparably greater than those of any private person or community.” Bloch, Feudal Society, p. 422.
50 David Lockwood has isolated the theoretical problem involved: “The relationship between bureaucracy and taxation is a highly interdependent one. The efficiency of the bureaucracy depends upon the effectiveness of its taxation system; and the effectiveness of its taxation system depends upon the efficiency of the bureaucratic apparatus. Thus, for whatever reason, any increase in the bureaucratic load or decrease in taxation capacity may generate a vicious circle of decentralization of power. Indeed, it might be argued that the ‘taxation’ crisis of patrimonial bureaucracy is essentially analogous to the ‘production’ crisis of capitalism. . . . The points of tension are those which represent an actualization of the potential for ‘feudalization’: the tendency of officials to ‘appropriate’ the economic and political resources of the office; the struggle of large land-owners to gain immunity from taxation and/or usurp fiscal and political functions; and the economic and political dependency into which the peasantry are forced in seeking protection against the tax burden of the bureaucratic center. These ‘centrifugal’ tendencies may be seen as both a cause and a consequence of the possible failure of mechanisms for maintaining effective taxation capacity and central control.” “Social Integration and System Integration” in George K. Zollschan and Walter Hirsch, eds., Explorations in Social Change (Boston, Massachusetts: Houghton, 1964), 254.
Gabriel Ardant’s formulation of this dilemma places greater emphasis on the fiscal policy-choices of the state leading to structural change rather than the reverse, although it is hard to separate the two. Ardant says: “Apart from confiscation, which in all eras tempted governments that were unable to resolve their fiscal difficulties, but which gave them only resources that were limited in time and often wasted, whether we are talking of the profits of conquest, of expropriation of the church’s property, or of the systematic persecution of certain social categories, two types of solutions were available to the authorities:
“The first type, the feudal solution, often preceded by a manorial economy and the venality of offices, tended to result in a significant number of cases in actual dismemberment of the state.
“To these formulas we can oppose borrowing and inflation, financial expedients which we shall see also depend on the structure of the economy.
“We are to be sure abstracting policies, of quite different dimensions, by which the State transforms the social organization of the society.” Théorie sociologique de l’impôt (Paris: S.E.V.P.E.N., 1965), I, 541 and ff.
51 For example, Ardant points out that: “To obtain credits judged necessary within the framework of an unfavorable financial situation, a state may be led to make pledges (gages) in the broad sense of this term which signify a restriction of its sovereignty: a specific source of income may be turned over to foreign creditors; a degree of supervision of financial administration, extended then to political administration, may be exercised by the creditors, or by the State which backs them, etc. [Ibid., I, pp. 549–550].”
52 Max Weber, in contrasting western Europe to India, states: “Also in the occidental state at the beginning of modern times there appeared tax farming and the commissioning of entrepreneurs with army recruitment—entrepreneurs to whom finance had largely to be entrusted. In India, however, under the great kingdoms those central institutions failed to develop which in the West allowed the princes gradually to take back military and financial administration into their own hands.” The Religion of India (New York: Free Press, 1958), 69.
53 “The venality of offices, despite its very severe inconveniences, had then the political consequence [of strengthening the state]. It is, for civil administration, the equivalent of the system of paid military troops, ‘mercenaries’—a system denounced with equal vigor, . . . but one nonetheless tied to the great and growing fortune of royal power, which thus no longer depended only on the military force of feudal nobility.” F. Chabod, “Y-a-t-il un état de la Renaissance?” in Actes du Colloque sur la Renaissance (Paris: Lib. Philosophique J. Vrin, 1958), 66.
54 Duby, Rural Economy, p. 331.
55 Léopold Génicot, “Crisis: From the Middle Ages to Modern Times,” in Cambridge Economic History of Europe, I: The Agrarian Life of the Middle Ages, 2nd ed. (London and New York: Cambridge Univ. Press 1966), 699.
56 “The importance given to the reputation of the prince, both by theoreticians and by men of action (for example, Richelieu), goes with the ever greater attention paid to ‘Majesty’: all of which little by little created distance between the prince and his subject, placing him on a plane where one could no longer dare to be familiar.” Chabod, Actes, p. 72.
57 “If the power of the prince was increasing, another, power also grew: that of the bureaucratic ‘corps’. Thus was created esprit de corps, linking them one to the other, despite all the personal and private personality disputes, and not only among the officiers de justice, the most senior bureaucrats, but among the others as well . . .
“This growing power of the ‘fourth estate’, the ally—in political terms—of the prince’s power, which had been growing simultaneously (administrative centralization and political absolutism going thus hand in hand) is in fact the fundamental element to which we should pay attention [Ibid., pp. 68–69, 72].”
58 Edward Miller has a brief discussion of how the now far more complex interplay of interests began to take shape in the late medieval period in the various European states. See “Government and Economic Policies and Public Finances, 900–1500,” Fontana Economic History of Europe, I, 8, 1970, 34-40.
59 See Yves Renouard, “1212–1216: Comment les traits durables de l’Europe occidentale moderne se sont définis au début du XIIIe siècle,” Annales de l’Université de Paris, XXVIII, 1, janv.–mars 1958, 5–21.
60 “A large unified body, more or less congruent with Latin Christianity, and composed of a multitude of small autonomous cells, the seigniories, gave way to a juxtaposition of vast territorial sovereignties, quite distinctive, the first beginnings of the States of modern Europe.” Edouard Perroy et al., Le Moyen Age, Vol. III of Histoire Générale des Civilisations (Paris: Universitaires de France, 1955), 369–370.
61 “In fact, the wheel had turned. The [sixteenth] century in its early years favored large States [Spain, Ottoman Empire], which were, as the economists would say, the political enterprise of optimum dimensions. As the century went on, and for reasons that we cannot adequately explain, these large bodies were betrayed bit by bit by circumstances. Was the crisis transitional or structural? Weakness or decadence? In any case, at the beginning of the 17th century, only middle-sized states seemed vigorous. Thus the France of Henry IV, this sudden splendor; or the little England of Elizabeth, pugnacious and radiant; or Holland organized around Amsterdam; or that Germany invaded by material quiescence from 1555 to the years preceding the Thirty Years’ War, in which she would founder, body and soul. In the Mediterranean, such is the case of Morocco, once again rich in gold, and of the Regency of Algiers, the story of a city becoming a territorial state. It is the case as well of Venice radiant, glittering with luxury, with beauty, with intelligence; or of the Tuscany of Grand-Duke Ferdinand. . . .
“In other words, the Empires must have suffered, more than the middle-sized states from the regression of 1595–1621.” Braudel, La Méditerranée, II, p. 47.
62 Ibid., II, p. 10.
63 Fr. Hartung & R. Mousnier, “Quelques problèmes concernant la monarchie absolue,” in Relazioni del X Congresso Internazionale di Scienze Storiche, IV: Storia moderna (Firenze: G. B. Sansoni, 1955), 47.
64 V. G. Kiernan, “State and Nations in Western Europe,” Past & Present, No. 31, July 1965, 35–36.
65 Gustaf Utterström, “Climatic Fluctuations and Population Problems in Early Modern History,” Scandinavian Economic History Review, III, 1, 1955, 47.
66 Ibid., p. 5.
67 Ibid., p. 24.
68 Ibid., p. 39.
69 See ibid., pp. 14–15. However Karl Helleiner, citing work by Ernst Rodenwaldt, suggests that, although the human flea is a less important vector of bubonic plague than the rat flea, it may have been more significant in the Middle Ages, thus reducing the import of Utterström’s hypothesis. See Helleiner, Cambridge Economic History of Europe, IV, p. 7.
70 Duby, Rural Economy, p. 307.
71 Ibid., p. 308.
72 Helleiner, Cambridge Economic History of Europe, IV, p. 76.
73 “It does not appear likely that the periodic ups and downs observed in the economic life of western Europe after 1200 are the result of climatic changes. . . .” Slicher van Bath, A.A.G.B., No. 12, p. 8.
74 After pointing out that some of Utterström’s evidence is not a priori climatic, he points to methodological flaws in the use of meteorological data. He suggests that Utterström has not given enough long trend data to sustain his generalizations. “Let us imagine a historian or an economist who would claim to demonstrate a long and lasting rise in prices, arguing only from some exceptional ‘cyclical’ points of the curve he wishes to interpret, while neglecting, not even perhaps knowing, the general shape of the curve in question.” Emmanuel Le Roy Ladurie, Histoire du climat depuis l’an mil (Paris: Flammarion, 1967), 17.
75 Norman J. G. Pounds, “Overpopulation in France and the Low Countries in the Later Middle Ages,” Journal of Social History, III, 3, Spring 1970, 245. Pounds talks of a “permanent condition of undernourishment.” Fernand Braudel takes a similar position: “[In a primarily agricultural economy], the rhythm, the quality, the inadequacy of harvests determine the whole of material life. There can result from them brusque harm, like bites, in the sap-wood of trees or in the flesh of men.” Civilisation matérielle et capitalisme (Paris: Lib. Armand Colin, 1967), 32–33.
76 “The people of the Dutch coastal areas, who lived for the most part from stock-farming and fishery and consequently ate more animal products and fats than the arable-farming folk, perhaps for that reason, did not succumb to the epidemics of the fourteenth century to anything like the same degree [as other Europeans].” Slicher van Bath, A.A.G.B., No. 12, pp. 89-90.
77 “For the plague, once it had been introduced [in 1347–1351] did not disappear from Europe until about 350 years after its first outbreak. In endemic or epidemic form it continued to exercise a profound influence both on the long-term average and on short-term fluctuations of the death rate.” Helleiner, Cambridge Economic History of Europe, IV, p. 5.
78 Karl Helleiner puts forth the following hypothesis: “[The] very improvements in the economic position of the lower classes [following the depopulation caused by the Black Death] may have militated against speedy demographic recovery. It is to be assumed on a priori grounds, and there is some evidence to support this view, that those improvements led to an upward revision of the living standard, involving a partial shift from a cereal to a meat standard of consumption. This change in consumers’ preference is reflected in the movement of relative prices of animal products and grain, which must have intensified [the] Wüstung process . . . , one aspect of which was a partial ‘decerealization’ of Europe in favour of animal husbandry. However, given a certain level of agrarian technology, five or six more times as much land is required for the raising of one calorie of animal food as is needed for the production of one calorie of vegetable food. It follows that whatever relief from pressure of population on land was afforded by the initial demographic slump must have been partially offset by that change in the pattern of consumption and production. This hypothesis helps to explain an otherwise puzzling fact, namely that the later Middle Ages should have suffered scarcely less than previous centuries from death and famine, even though man’s per capita supply of fertile land was undoubtedly much bigger in this period [Ibid., pp. 68–69].”
79 “The regression of population in the 14th and 15th centuries aggravated, rather than resolved, the shortage of space. Therefore it did not diminish the pressure which had been occurring during the 13th century. It may have increased it, by the fall of rent, the diminution of profit, and the worsening of the seigniorial burden. Capital which would have been tempted to turn to the land was attracted to some degree by other horizons.” Chaunu, L’expansion européenne, p. 349.
80 “But there were also plenty of instances where commutation involved not a mitigation but an augmentation of feudal burdens. Here it was merely an alternative to direct imposition of additional services. Commutation was most likely to have this character when resort to it was largely at the lord’s initiative; the attempt to increase feudal revenue presumably taking this form because of a relative abundance of labour. . . . Probably it was the pressure of population upon the available land of the village, rendering it harder for the villager to obtain his subsistence and hence making hired labour cheap and relatively plentiful . . . that furthered the inducement to this commutation.” Dobb, Studies, pp. 63–64.
81 Archibald R. Lewis, “The Closing of the European Frontier,” Speculum, XXXIII, 4, Oct. 1958, 475.
82 Ibid., p. 476
83 Andrew M. Watson, “Back to Gold—and Silver,” Economic History Review, 2nd ser., XX, 1, 1967, 1.
84 “We forget that, in antiquity and during the Middle Ages, what we should now consider as very poor mines were then held to be first rate. The Western Sudan was, from the 8th century until the discovery of America, the chief supplier of gold for the western world; the trade, commercialized first by Ghana, came under that name to the Mediterranean and enhanced the prestige of the kings who owned such a source of wealth:” R. A. Mauny, “The Question of Ghana,” Africa, XXIV, 3, July 1954, 209.
Marian Malowist argues that it was the North African demand for gold (in order to sell it to Europeans) rather than the need of the Western Sudan for the salt they received in turn which was the primary stimulus for this expansion. See “Quelques observations sur le commerce de l’or dans le Soudan occidental au moyen âge,” Annales E.S.C., XXV, 6, nov.–déc. 1970, 1630–1636.
85 Watson, Economic History Review, XX, p. 34. See the remarkable collaborative article by R. S. Lopez, H. A. Miskimin and Abraham Udovitch in which they argue very convincingly that the years 1350–1500 see a steady outflow of bullion from north-west Europe to Italy to the Levant to India:
“Both luxury consumption by the non-agricultural population [of England] and extensive investments in the ornamentation of churches . . . exacerbated the already acute shortage of skilled craftsmen which followed the Black Death by causing a relative increase in the demand for their services. As a result, the wages of skilled artisans were considerably augmented and some of the new demand for luxury, not satisfied domestically, was diverted to areas beyond northern Europe by economic necessity as well as in search of the exotic; the inevitable result of this demand was an increase in the export of money. Further, since the use of scarce labour in the production of domestic luxury proscribes its use for the manufacture of export articles, the potential foreign earnings of the northern economies was reduced. . . .
“[W]here had [the money] gone? . . . [T]he papacy was indeed a major drain of the metal supply of northern Europe. In addition to direct transfers of money, however, the more conventional channels of commerce tended, through the medium of luxury consumption, to produce the same result. . . . The continental termini of [the] north-south route [leading from the Hanse cities] were Milan, Genoa, and Venice; . . . it would seem there was an active and probably one-sided trade connecting the northern economy with the southern in such a way as to drain precious metals southward.
“In France, also, we find a widespread increase in the consumption of southern luxuries during the fourteenth and early fifteenth centuries. . . .
“England and France complained bitterly about the drain of precious metals by Italy, but this was largely the counterpart of the drain from Italy into the Levant. . . . [I]n spite of gold imports from north-western Europe, a moderate production of central European mines, and more substantial amounts coming from Senegal, there are abundant indications that the supply of gold was at best barely adequate and often scarce. Granted that man’s gold hunger is chronically insatiable, it is. certain that trade with the Levant in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries drained from Italy an ever growing amount of gold. . . . [T]he comparative ascendancy of luxury trade made Italy more dependent upon the Levant and increased the drain of precious metals in that direction. . . .
“[There is] an absolute contraction of the Egyptian economy by the end of the fourteenth century and . . . an absolute quantitative decline of all its sectors. . . . Egypt’s economic crisis was accompanied by a breakdown of its monetary system. Gold and silver currency became increasingly scarce, and copper coins predominated in internal circulation and on all levels of transaction. . . .
“Among the numerous factors contributing to Egypt’s shortage of specie in the late fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, the most central was her persistent unfavourable balance of payments in international trade. By the thirteenth century, the Nubian gold mines were exhausted to the point that the gold extracted barely covered expenses. A lively and profitable trade with the western Sudan kept Egypt supplied with gold until the latter part of the fourteenth century, at which time this trade declined and the African gold was siphoned off toward Europe. . . . While the source of Egypt’s gold supply was contracting, there are no indications of a correspondingly significant decline in consumption of foreign products and luxury goods, or a parallel reduction of state expenditures for imports. . . .
Throughout the fifteenth century, Europe was the only area with which Egypt maintained a favourable balance of trade. . . . Egypt, at the beginning of the fifteenth century, was virtually living off the profits of the spice trade with Europe. . . . But only a fraction of this sum remained in the country. The spice trade was a transit trade. In addition, Egypt was also contributing to [the] flow [of gold toward India] by its own internal consumption of spices and other imports from the Farther East. . . .
Thus, at least a good portion of the gold which began its long trek southward from Northern Europe in search of luxury products, travelling via Italy and Egypt, found its final resting place as additions to the already incredible gold accumulations of India.” “England to Egypt, 1350–1500; Long-term Trends and Long-distance Trade,” in M. A. Cook, ed., Studies in the Economic History of the Middle East from the Rise of Islam to the Present Day (London and New York: Oxford Univ. Press, 1970), 101, 102, 103, 104, 105, 109, 110, 114, 117, 123, 126, 127–128.
86 “See Desanka Kovacevic, “Dans la Serbie et la Bosnie médiévales: les mines d’or et d’argent,” Annales E.S.C., XV, 2, mars-avr. 1960, 248–258.
87 “[There was a] sudden rise of mineral production as of 1460, primarily in Central Europe. In this domain, technology became scientific. The invention of better methods of drilling, drainage and ventilation made possible the exploitation of the mines in Saxony, Bohemia, and Hungary as far as 600 feet down; the increased use of hydraulic power increased the strength of the bellows and the drills such that the hearths could come down from the mountainsides, and be located in the valleys. The building of the first blast-furnaces ten feet high tripled the productive capacity of the old hearths. It is not impossible that, between 1460 and 1530, the extraction of mineral quintupled in Central Europe.” Perroy, Le Moyen Age, III, pp. 559–562.
88 See V. M. Godinho, “Création et dynamisme économique du monde atlantique (1420–1670),” Annales E.S.C., V, 1, janv.–mars 1950, 33; Pierre Chaunu, Séville et l’Atlantique (1504–1650), VIII (1) (Paris: S.E.V.P.E.N., 1959), 57.
89 America which relieved, in the Mediterranean, the African gold sources was an even more important substitute for German silver mines.” Braudel, La Méditerranée I, p. 433.
90 “In every direction where commerce spread, it created the desire for the new articles of consumption which it brought with it. As always happens, the aristocracy wished to surround themselves with the luxury or at least the comfort befitting their social rank.” Henri Pirenne, Economic and Social History of Medieval Europe (London: Routledge & Kegan, 1936), 81.
“When we take account of the fact that warfare took its main toll from the upper orders (since they alone were permitted to bear arms) we may well doubt there was a significant relative growth in the size of the parasitic class. . . . On the other hand, there is no reason to doubt the reality of the growing extravagances of the feudal ruling class. . . . But was this growing extravagance a trend which can be explained by the nature of the feudal system, or does it reflect something which was happening outside the feudal system? . . . . The rapid expansion of trade from the 11th century on brought an ever-increasing quantity and variety of goods within its reach.” Paul Sweezy, Science and Society, XIV, pp. 139-140.
Maurice Dobb, however, argues: “The transition from coercive extraction of surplus labour by estate-owners to the use of free hired labour must have depended upon the existence of cheap labour for hire (i.e. of proletarian or semi-proletarian elements). This I believe to have been a far more fundamental factor than proximity of markets in determining whether the old social relations survived or were dissolved.” Science and Society, XIV, p. 161.
R. H. Hilton sides with Dobb: “The economic progress which was inseparable from the early rent struggle and the political stabilization of feudalism was characterized by an increase in the total social surplus of production over subsistence needs. This, not the so-called revival of international trade in silks and spices, was the basis for the development of commodity production.” “The Transition from Feudalism to Capitalism,” Science & Society, XVII, 4, Fall 1953, 347.
91 See B. H. Slicher van Bath, “The Rise of Intensive Husbandry in the Low Countries,” in J. S. Bromley & E. H. Kossman, eds., Britain and the Netherlands (London: Chatto, 1960), 130–153.
92 Ibid., p. 137.
93 “These movements of improvement (bonification) were in response to the requirements of the towns, whose population never stopped growing in the 15th and 16th centuries. Urgent needs of provisioning these towns led them to develop agricultural production in their environs, either by cultivating new terrains, or by practicing irrigation” Braudel, La Méditerranée, I, p. 62.
94 Joel Serrão, “Le blé des îles atlantiques: Madère et Açores aux XVe et XVIe siècles,” Annales E.S.C., IX, 3, juil.-sep. 1954, 338.
95 See J. A. van Houtte, “L’approvisionnement des villes dans les Pays-Bas (Moyen Age et Temps Modernes),” Third International Conference of Economic History, Munich 1965 (Paris: Mouton, 1968), 73–77.
96 “In the 15th century, Portugal became more and more open to Hanseatic traders and to Bretons who supplied the country with wheat and wood, the import of which was already in that epoch indispensable.” Marian Malowist, “Les aspects sociaux de la première phase de l’expansion coloniale:” Africana Bulletin. I, 1964, 12.
97 See Ruggiero Romano, “A propos du commerce de blé dans la Méditerranée des XIVe et XVe siècles,” in Eventail de l’histoire vivante: hommage à Lucien Febvre (Paris: Lib. Armand Colin, 1953), 149–161.
98 The eight tiers Bennett lists are (1) milled-grain products and starchy roots and tubers, including plantain; (2) vegetable fats and oils; (3) dried pulses (beans, peas, lentils); (4) sugar; (5) milk and its products; possibly fish; (6) pig meat; (7) beef, mutton, goat, buffalo, and poultry and eggs; (8) vegetables and fruits. See M. K. Bennett, The World’s Food (New York: Harper, 1954), 127–128. “Why should the general hierarchy exist? It is undoubtedly the reflection of relative costs of production and the inherent calorie-bearing qualities of the several foods [p. 128].”
99 See G. B. Masefield, “Crops and Livestock,” Cambridge Economic History of Europe, IV: E. E. Rich and C. H. Wilson, eds., The Economy of Expanding Europe in the 16th and 17th Centuries (London and New York: Cambridge Univ. Press, 1967), 295.
100 Anthony Luttrell has traced the picture prior to 1500: “The Latins were producing sugar with Muslim and other slaves in Syria, Cyprus and other Levantine colonies from the 12th century onward and by 1404, when Giovanni della Padua of Genoa received a royal licence to establish a plantation in Algarve, the Genoese had apparently transferred it from Sicily to southern Portugal. It was largely the Genoese who provided the initiative, the capital, the milling and irrigation techniques for the introduction of sugar to the Azores and Madeiras, and who exported it from the islands as far afield as Flanders and Constantinople. They also helped provide the necessary labor; Antonio da Noli, for example, was carrying Guineans to Cape Verde isles in the 1460’s.” “Slavery and Slaving in the Portuguese Atlantic (to about 1500),” in Centre of African Studies, University of Edinburgh, The Transatlantic Slave Trade from West Africa (mimeo, 1965), 76.
101 See E. E. Rich, “Colonial Settlement and its Labour Problems,” in Cambridge Economic History of Europe, IV: E. E. Rich and C. H. Wilson, eds.. The Economy of Expanding Europe in the 16th and 17th Centuries (London and New York: Cambridge Univ. Press, 1967), 308.
102 For example, Serrão notes of Madeira: “About 1475, the wheat cycle ended. . . . Sugar had killed wheat.” Annales E.S.C., IX, p. 340. Serrão points out that when this happened, the Azores became Portugal’s wheat-growing area, supplanting primarily Madeira. This cyclical pattern was “true in the 16th century, as in the 17th, and still in the 18th.” Ibid., p. 341.
103 See Godinho, Annales E.S.C., V, p. 33.
104 “What people are generally less well aware of is that the situation sketched in 1750—large rations of bread and a little meat . . . was itself the result of a deterioration and does not apply when we go back in time to the Middle Ages.” Fernand Braudel and Frank C. Spooner, “Prices in Europe from 1450 to 1750,” in Cambridge Economic History of Europe, IV: E. E. Rich and C. H. Wilson, eds., The Economy of Expanding Europe in the 16th and 17th Centuries (London and New York: Cambridge Univ. Press, 1967), 414.
105 “From 1400 to 1750 Europe was a great consumer of bread and more than one-half vegetarian . . . Only this ‘backward’ diet allowed Europe to carry the burden of a continually increasing population. . . . The consumption of bread put that of meat more and more in the background until the mid-nineteenth century.” Ibid. p. 413. See also W. Abel, “Wandlungen des Fleischverbrauchs and der Fleischsrrsorgung in Deutschland,” Bericht über Landwirtschaft, n.s., 22, 1938, 411–452, cited in Slicher van Bath, Agrarian History, p. 204.
106 “The early explorations of the Portuguese along the West African coast yielded only one plant of immediate interest, grains of paradise. . . . They could now be obtained more cheaply than by the overland trans-Saharan route, and the trade gave its name to the ‘Grain Coast’; but the plants could not he acclimatized in Europe.” Masefield, Cambridge Economic History of Europe, IV, p. 276.
107 Chaunu, L’expansion européenne, p. 354.
108 G. B. Masefield points out how the link between the Americas and the Eastern Hemisphere changed the agrarian map of the world: “The dispersal of crops and livestock which followed the establishment of these links was the most important in human history, and perhaps had the most far-reaching effects of any result of the Discoveries. Without the American crops, Europe might not have been able to carry such heavy populations as she later did, and the Old World tropics would not have been so quickly developed. Without the European livestock, and especially horses and mules for transport and cultivation, the American continent could not have been developed at the rate it had been.” Cambridge Economic History of Europe, IV, p. 276.
109 Braudel speaks of a “wood famine” with reference to various parts of Italy. “The Mediterranean navies became accustomed, little by little, to go looking further and further for what they couldn’t find in their own forests. In the sixteenth century, Nordic wood arrived in Seville in boats filled to the brim with planks and beams.” La Méditerranée, I, p. 131.
See Frederic Lane: “When this depletion of the oak woods was first clearly recognized—in the last half of the fifteenth century—the shortage seems to have been peculiar to Venice. At least the Ragusans and the Basques had a sufficiently plentiful supply so that their competition was severely felt. At the end of the sixteenth century the scarcity of oak timber appears to have been general throughout Mediterranean countries.” “Venetian Shipping During the Commercial Revolution,” in Venice and History (Baltimore, Maryland: Johns Hopkins Press, 1966), 21.
H. C. Darby makes the same point for England: “The growth of England’s mercantile marine and the development of the English navy from the Tudor age onward depended upon an adequate supply of oaks for the hulls of ships; fir trees for masts, together with such ‘naval stores’ as pitch and tar, were imported from Baltic lands.” “The Clearing of the Woodland in Europe,” in William L. Thomas, Jr., ed., Man’s Role in Changing the Face of the Earth (Chicago, Illinois: Univ. of Chicago Press, 1956), 200.
110 See Godinho, Annales E.S.C., V, p. 33.
111 The key element in making metallic money symbolic is to make the coins with a commodity value lower (preferably far lower) than their monetary value. Yet Garlo Cipolla points out this was not adopted for petty coins in England until 1816 and in the United States until 1853. See Money, Prices, p. 27.
112 Marc Bloch, Esquisse d’une histoire monétaire de l’Europe (Paris: Lib. Armand Colin, 1954), 50.
113 “The majority, if not the totality of experts consulted by the later Capetian [monarchs in France] were merchants, often Italian merchants, at one and the same time long-distance merchants and moneylenders to kings and notables; frequently also mint farmers and sellers of precious metals [Bloch, ibid., p. 52].”
114 “In most cases the mints were not operated directly by the State, but were farmed out to private persons who coined money out of the metal that other private persons brought to them. The controlling interest of these mint farmers was naturally that of private profit, not that of public utility. In those cases in which a king himself ran a mint he also acted more often as a private entrepreneur than as head of the State.” Cipolla, Money, Prices, p. 28.
115 Marc Bloch cites the striking fifteenth century example of the French Chambre des Comptes itself which, “when it calculated the transfers from one royal account to another, instead of simply inscribing the sum transferred in livres, sous and deniers, took care to attach to it a coefficient intended to take account of the modifications which had in the interim occurred to the metallic worth of these units. ‘Due from the preceding account 416 livres 19 sous tournois of weak money . . . which in strong i.e. current] money is worth 319 livres 19 sous tournois.’ ” Esquisse d’une histoire, p. 49.
116 H. V. Livermore, “Portuguese History,” in H. V. Livermore, ed., Portugal and Brazil, an Introduction (London and New York: Oxford Univ. Press (Clarendon) 1953), 59.
Vitorino Magalhães-Godinho sees a direct link between the cessation of the violent social struggle in Portugal (1383–1385) and the Portuguese expedition to Ceuta in 1415. See L’économie de l’empire portugais aux XVe et XVIe siècles (Paris: S.E.V.P.E.N., 1969), 40.
117 “Historians see a connection between the great wars of the 14th and 15th centuries (including the French descent into Italy) and the weakening of the income-level of the nobility. . . . Does not the beginning of the great expansion movements in the 15th century (even in the 14th century with the colonization of the Atlantic islands) belong to the same group of events and was it not provoked by identical causes? We could consider as parallel the expansion in Eastern Europe, and the attempts of the Danish and German nobility to conquer Scandinavia.” Marian Malowist, “Un essai d’histoire comparée: les mouvements d’expansion en Europe au XV et XVI siècles,” Annales E.S.C., XVII, 5, sept.–oct. 1962, 924.
118 See Malowist: “It seems clear that in the first phase of Portuguese colonial expansion . . . , the element of the nobility plays a dominant role. . . . As the process of development of the Portuguese colonial empire went on, the share of Portuguese merchants in the overseas trade grew. . . . It seems that the process of Spanish colonization of America was analogous.” Africana Bulletin, No. 1, pp. 32–34. Similarly, Chaunu, citing Godinho as his authority, distinguishes two kinds of Portuguese expansion: “an expansion that was primarily overland, hence by the nobility and political in form, represented by the taking of Ceuta and the extension of the Reconquista into Morocco; and an essentially mercantile expansion, hence primarily by the bourgeoisie, along the coast of Africa.” L’expansion européenne, p. 363. Chaunu adds, as had Malowist, that he is tempted to extend this explanation to the Spanish conquest of America.
Luis Vitale is ready to go further in assessing the role of the bourgeoisie. He argues: “Portugal, in 1381, witnessed the first bourgeois revolution, four centuries before that of France. The commercial bourgeoisie of Lisbon, connected through trade with Flanders, removed the feudal lords from power. The ultimate failure of the revolution showed that conditions were unripe for the triumph of the bourgeoisie, but their rise was reflected in the trade with the North Atlantic, in the plans of Henry the Navigator, and above all, in the discoveries of the fifteenth century.” “Latin America: Feudal or Capitalist?” in James Petras and Maurice Zeitlin, eds., Latin America: Reform or Revolution? (Greenwich, Connecticut: Fawcett, 1968), 34.
119 “[R]eligion was the pretext, as much as the cause, of these persecutions. . . . Still later, as Georges Pariset remarked a long time ago, [the law of numbers also operated] against French Protestants in the age of Louis XIV.” Braudel, La Méditerranée, I, p. 380.
120 Rich, Cambridge Economic History of Europe, IV, pp. 302–303.
121 This self-definition had of course a long history on the Iberian peninsula. See Charles Julian Bishko: “[T]hose eight centuries of now slow, now rapid southward advance against the Moors were not merely an Iliad of military and political combat, but above everything else a medieval repoblación, or recolonization, of the Iberian Peninsula.” “The Castilian as Plainsman: The Medieval Ranching Frontier in La Mancha and Extremadura,” in Archibald R. Lewis and Thomas F. McGunn, eds., The New World Looks at Its History (Austin: Univ. of Texas Press, 1969), 47.
122 Chaunu, Séville, VIII (1), p. 60.
123 “There does not exist, in all of the North Atlantic, a place more ideally suited for navigation in the direction of the warm waters than the coastal fringe which goes from north of Lisbon to Gibraltar or possibly from Lisbon to the northern tip of Morocco. There alone one will find, alternately, a sure wind to take you from the coast and into the open seas, in the full heart of the ocean, at the low point [racine] of the tradewinds, at the moment of the summer solstice. and a wind to bring you back, the counterflow [contreflux] of the middle latitudes from autumn to early spring [petit printemps.]” Pierre Chaunu, Seville VIII (I), p. 52. A helpful map is to be found in Charles R. Boxer, The Portuguese Seaborne Empire, 1415–1825 (New York: Knopf, 1969), 54–55. See Braudel, Civilisation matérielle et capitalisme, pp. 310-312.
124 “It is incontestable that the prodigious colonial and commercial development of the Iberian countries at the dawn of Modern Times was made possible in large part by a gradual growth in their external commerce during the latter centuries of the middle ages.” Charles Verlinden, “Deux aspects de l’expansion commerciale du Portugal au moyen âge,” Revista Portuguêsa de História, IV, 1949, 170. See also Charles Verlinden, “The Rise of Spanish Trade in the Middle Ages,” Economic History Review, X, 1, 1940, 44–59. A similar point is made by Michel Mollat in “L’économie européenne aux deux dernières siècles du Moyen-Age,” Relazioni del X Congresso Internazionale di Scienze Storiche (Firenze: G. B. Sansoni, 1955) III, Storia del medioevo, 755. António H. de Oliveira Marques spells out the nature of Portuguese trade with Flanders in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries in “Notas para a história da feitoria portuguesa na Flandres no século XV,” Studi in onore di Amintore Fanfani, II. Medioevo (Milano: Dott. A. Giuffrè-Ed., 1962), 437–476. He notes that already in 1308 there was a Portuguese “nation” in Bruges and that goods were transported on Portuguese ships. (See p. 451). See Godinho, L’écononie portugaise, p. 37.
125 K. M. Panikkar points to Genoa’s desire to capture the India trade from the thirteenth century on. “Finally, through Spain and Portugal, the Genoese were able to break through Venetian monopoly and Muslim blockade. . . .” Asia and Western Dominance (London: Allen & Unwin, 1953), 26–27. While this account of the decline of the Venetian monopoly is oversimple, as we shall see in Chapter 6, Panikkar is correct to point to Genoa’s long-standing desire in this regard.
126 Charles Verlinden, “Italian Influence in Iberian Colonization,” Hispanic American Historical Review, XXXIII, 2, May 1953, 199.
127 Ibid., p. 200.
128 See Virginia Rau, “A Family of Italian Merchants in Portugal in the Fifteenth Century: the Lomellini,” Studi in onore di Armando Sapori (Milano: Istituto Edit. Cisalpino, 1957), 718.
129 Verlinden, Hispanic American Historical Review, p. 205. See also Charles Verlinden, “La colonie italienne de Lisbonne et le développement de l’économie métropolitaine et coloniale portugaise,” Studi in onore di Armando Sapori (Milano: Istituto Edit. Cisalpino, 1957), I, 615–28.
130 Rau, Studi in onore di Armando Sapori, p. 718.
131 Ibid., p. 719. Italics added.
132 “The creation of the internal market [in Portugal] reached its high point and felt its first brutal limitations in the 14th century. Probably it was because Portugal belonged to the rich Islamic zone that it had maintained exchange at a rather high level of activity, higher than that of western Europe, one in which there was a predominance of monetary payments. . . . Thus it was that the peasantry, uprooted. rebelling against the growing violence of seigniorial exploitation, ruined by the fall in purchasing power of currency, attracted by the large cities on the coast, contributed to the enrichment of these mercantile cities and to the extension of trade.” J.-G. DaSilva, “L’autoconsommation au Portugal (XIVe–XXe siècles),” Annales E.S.C., XXIV, 2, mars–avr. 1969, 252. Italics added.
133 “An important contributing factor [to Portugal’s lead] was that during the whole of the 15th century Portugal was a united kingdom, virtually free of civil strife; whereas France was distracted by the closing stages of the Hundred Years’ War—1415 was the date of the battle of Agincourt as well as the capture of Ceuta [by the Portuguese]—and by rivalry with Burgundy; England by the struggle with France and the War of the Roses; and Spain and Italy by dynastic and other internal convulsions.” C. R. Boxer, Four Centuries of Portuguese Expansion, 1415–1825 (Johannesburg: Witwatersrand Univ. Press, 1961), 6.
134 “Under feudalism a state was in a certain sense the private property of a prince in the same way that the fief was the private property of a vassal. . . . Princes and their vassals extended the jurisdictions of their courts, the cultivation of their fields, and the conquests of their armies as profit-seeking ventures. Later, much of the spirit and legal forms of feudalism were applied to oceanic expansion.” Frederic C. Lane, “Force and Enterprise in the Creation of Oceanic Commerce,” in Venice in History (Baltimore, Maryland: Johns Hopkins Press, 1966), 401–402.
135 See Fernand Braudel, Civilisation matérielle et capitalisme, p. 24.
136 Chaunu, Séville, VIII (1), p. 50.
137 Lynn White, Jr., “What Accelerated Technological Progress in the Western Middle Ages?” in A. C. Crombie, ed., Scientific Change, (New York: Basic Books, 1963), 277.
138 “The chief factor making for innovation in a community is prior innovation. Applying this hypothesis to the Middle Ages as a whole, it would appear that to some extent the greater originality of the West is related to the fact that Latin Christendom was far more profoundly shaken than the East [Byzantium and Islam] ever was by wave after wave of barbarian invasion, extending, with interruptions, from the 3rd century into the 10th. . . . The West . . . was a molten society, ready to flow into new moulds. It was singularly open to change, and agreeable to it [Ibid., p. 282].
139 Carlo Cipolla, Guns and Sails in the Early Phase of European Expansion, 1400–1700. London: Collins, 1965, 106–107.
140 See Joseph Needham, “Commentary on Lynn White, Jr., “What Accelerated Technological Change in the Western Middle Ages?” in A. C. Crombie, ed., Scientific Change (New York: Basic Books, 1963a), p. 32.
141 Joseph Needham, “Poverties and Triumphs of Chinese Scientific Tradition,” in Crombie, ed., Scientific Change (New York: Basic Books, 1963b), 139. Italics added.
142 See Boies Penrose, Travel and Discovery in the Renaissance, 1420–1620 (Cambridge, Massachusetts: Harvard Univ. Press, 1952), 269–270.
143 See Joseph Needham, “The Chinese Contributions to Vessel Control,” Scientia, XCVI, 99, May 1961, 165–167. When Needham gave this paper at the Fifth International Colloquium on Maritime History, he was specifically queried on the possibility of independent invention by W. G. L. Randles. He responded by affirming his doubts, although, as he said, it is inherently difficult to demonstrate a negative. See “Discussion de la communication de M. Needham,” in Joseph Needham, “Les contributions chinoises á l’art de gouverner les navires,” Colloque internationale d’histoire maritime, 5e, Lisbonne, 1960 (Paris, 1966), 129–131.
144 “See William Willetts, “The Maritime Adventures of the Great Eunuch Ho,” in Colin Jack Hinton, ed., Papers on Early South-East Asian History (Singapore: Journal of Southeast Asian History, 1964), 38.
145 “In ± 1405, the eunuch admiral Cheng Ho left with a fleet of 63 ocean-going junks who visited many parts of the south seas. . . . During the next 30 years seven such expeditions set forth, returning each time with abundant information concerning geography and sea routes as well as large quantities of the produce of the isles and India. . . . The reasons for these expeditions are not known; they may have been intended to counterbalance the foreign trade which had dried up over the land routes, or to increase the grandeur of the imperial court, or even, as the official annals said, to seek out the emperor’s predecessor and nephew (who, in fact, had disappeared underground as a Buddhist monk and was found many years later in a succeeding regime). In any case they stopped as suddenly as they began, again for reasons which are now obscure. Whether or not some feud between the eunuchs and the Confucian bureaucrats was involved, the upshot was that the commerce of the Indian Ocean was left to the Arabs and the Portuguese.” Joseph Needham, Science and Civilization in China, I (London and New York: Cambridge Univ. Press, 1954), 143–144.
146 T’ien-Tsê Chang, Sino-Portuguese Trade From 1514 to 1644 (Leiden, Netherlands: Brill, 1934), 30.
147 “The question may be asked, what were the practical results of these amazing expeditions, in which hundreds of ocean-going junks and several tens of thousands of men were used? The short answer would be, absolutely none. The Ming Chinese were not empire-builders. Their political pundits had no conception of the horrors of realpolitik inseparable from a colonial regime. They had no sense of mission, no idea of sturm and drang. Theoretically the Son of Heaven ruled the whole world, t’ien hsia, ‘all under heaven,’ and his envoys considered it enough to show themselves to the non-descript barbarians on the fringes of the civilized world, in order to usher in a millennium activated by the serene presence of the Son of Heaven upon the Throne.” Willetts, Papers on Early South-east Asian History, pp. 30–31.
148 Ibid., p. 37.
149 Ibid., p. 38.
150 See G. F. Hudson, Europe and China (London: Arnold, 1931), 197. May it also have been the result of a population shift northward? “This regional analysis shows that the loss of population by Southern China [during the Ming dynasty] (12 millions, excluding Nanking) was almost exactly balanced by the gain in Northern China (9 million) and the West and South-West (3 million).” Otto B. van der Sprenkel, “Population Statistics of Ming China,” Bulletin of the SOAS, XV, Part 2, 1953, 306.
151 “The work of fortifying the coast between the Yangtze and Pearl rivers was compared by contemporary Chinese historians to the building of the Great Wall against the Tartar invaders from the north. This was an obvious exaggeration, but the necessity of maintaining costly coast defenses to cope with these chronic incursions was undoubtedly a severe strain on the Ming exchequer and may . . . have contributed to the abandonment of the great Chinese maritime expeditions to the Indian Ocean [p. 126].” C. R. Boxer, The Christian Century in Japan (Berkeley: Univ. of California Press, 1967), 7. George Sansom, looking at this phenomenon from the Japanese end, sees a suggestive European parallel. “There is no doubt that both China and Korea suffered from the depredations of the Wako. . . . The fault was partly that of the Chinese, for they were opposed to foreign commerce, whereas the Japanese authorities would have been glad to promote legitimate trade. But these were also the reasons why the Bakufu [Japanese central authorities] was reluctant to go to extremes in suppressing piracy. It was not entirely convinced of the peaceful intentions of the Chinese, and looked upon the pirate chiefs probably as Queen Elizabeth looked upon Sir Francis Drake—as a freebooter or a naval captain according to circumstances. Moreover, action against the pirates depended upon the Bakufu’s control over the Western warlords, and before 1400 Yoshimitsu was not yet firmly established in power.” A History of Japan: Vol. 11. 1334–1615 (Stanford, California: Stanford Univ. Press, 1961), 177–178.
152 “[One] is struck by the significant part played by the Chinese in the [Indonesian] archipelago in the 14th century. . . . As the hegemony of trade in this ocean passed into the hands of the Moslems, the Chinese ships began to disappear. There is probably a connection here. . . .” M. A. Meilink-Roelofsz, Asian Trade and European Influence in the Indonesian Archipelago between 1500 and about 1630 (The Hague: Nijhoff, 1962), 25, 74.
153 See R. Servoise, “Les relations entre la Chine et l’Afrique au XVe siècle,” Le mois en Afrique, No. 6, juin 1966, 30-45.
154 Chaunu, L’expansion européenne, p. 335.
155 Ibid., p. 336.
156 Ibid., pp. 338–339.
157 The Ming period, once the power of the Mongols was broken, seems to have witnessed a strong reaction against these compressive conditions on the part of the over-populated south.” Bulletin of the SOAS, XV, Van der Sprenkel, p. 308. Note that van der Sprenkel, in contrast to Hudson, gives the declining menace of the Mongols as the explanation for northward shift of emphasis.
158 In the glossary to Max Weber, The Religion of China (New York: Free Press, 1951), Hans Gerth writes: “Prebend: Right of an officeholder to yield from state or church lands or from other public income. Weber terms such office-holders ‘prebendiaries’. A political social system based upon a staff of prebendiaries Weber calls ‘prebendalism.’ [p. 305].” Eric Wolf discusses the differences of a patrimonial (or “feudal”) domain and a prebendal domain from the perspective of its meaning for the peasant in Peasants (Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey: Prentice-Hall, 1966), 50–52.
159 Weber, Religion of India. pp. 70–71.
160 Joseph R. Levenson, ed., European Expansion and the Counter-Expansion of Asia, 1300–1600 (Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey: Prentice-Hall, 1967), 131–132.
161 Weber, Religion of China, pp. 61–62. Italics added.
162 Owen Lattimore shows how just such a tribute relationship of Manchuria to Ming China worked in the sixteenth century: “In the period of Ming decline the ‘tribute missions’ received at court became a method of taking advantage of the Chinese. The ‘tribute-bearers’ came with retinues running into hundreds, at the expense of the Chinese authorities, which inflated their political importance. At the same time, they brought ‘non-tribute’ goods for trade, which cut the profits of the Chinese frontier traders.” Inner Asian Frontiers of China, 2nd edition (Irvington-on-Hudson, New York: Capitol Publishing Co. and American Geographical Society, 1940), 124. Compare this self-defeating political arrangement to the frank colonialism Portugal and other European countries practiced on the overseas barbarians, what Weber called “booty capitalism.” Ibid., p. 135.
163 Cipolla, Guns and Sails, p. 117.
164 William Theodore de Bary, ed., “Introduction,” in Self and Society in Ming Thought (New York: Columbia Univ. Press, 1970), 24. He develops this theme further in his essay in this volume entitled “Individualism and Humanism in Late Ming Thought”: “A type of individualistic thought with strikingly modern features did arise, in conjunction with larger social and cultural forces, out of a liberal and humanitarian movement within the Wang Yangming school in the sixteenth century. Thus Confucianism, though the dominant tradition and, to modern eyes, an authoritarian system, proved capable of fulfilling somewhat the same function as . . . medieval Christianity in the rise of Western individualism [p. 233].”
165 “The insurrection which chased the Mongol dynasty of the Yuan from the throne in 1368 and the coining to power of the Ming were Chinese national reactions against the barbarians.” Roland Mousnier, Les XVIe et XVIle siècles, Vol. IV of Histoire Générale des Civilisations (Paris: Presses Universitaires de France, 1954), 520.
166 Ibid., pp. 527–528

By Immanuel Wallerstein in " The Modrn World - System 1", University of California Press, Berkeley & Los Angeles, USA, 2011, excerpts chapter 1. Adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.

LOVE OUT OF WEDLOCK IN THE ANCIENT WORLD

$
0
0

From its origins, the institution of marriage has been associated with various forms of concubinage, systems that permitted and to some extent defined parallel and intimate relationships between men and women other than their wives. The Bible, which provides the underpinning of much of Western culture and literature, introduces us to scores of concubines. King Solomon had three hundred in addition to his seven hundred wives, and other biblical kings and patriarchs enjoyed the prestige of scores or hundreds of concubines. A concubine was used for sexual purposes and for what the Japanese called “borrowed wombs.” If a man’s wife was barren and he needed heirs, he might impregnate a concubine, then acknowledge and raise her child as his own. Concubines had the status of secondary wives, without a wife’s security or rights. Concubines were often slaves. The law stipulated that even if a wife’s slave was designated her husband’s concubine, that concubine remained her owner’s property.

Over the centuries, changing circumstances and mores altered concubinage. By late antiquity, Roman law extended some protection to concubines, notably by allowing their children a small share of their natural father’s estate, a claim made even stronger if he died intestate or without legitimate heirs. The early-4th-century Christian emperor Constantine, who died in 337, sought to discourage concubinage by granting men the right to marry their concubines and thereby legitimize their children. But no law could eradicate concubinage when Greco-Roman culture generally accepted male infidelity in marriage. Saint Augustine, who for over a decade lived with his beloved concubine and their son, explained that men justified concubinage on the grounds that they would otherwise be driven to seduce other men’s wives or to resort to prostitutes. The concomitant of the notion that males were innately incapable of monogamy was that concubinage was an essential adjunct to marriage.

Hagar
Hagar

The first concubine to be named in recorded history may well be Hagar, an Egyptian slave woman who might have been black. Hagar was the bondwoman of the matriarch Sarah, the wife of the patriarch Abraham (c. 2000–1720 B.C.). We know nothing about Hagar’s circumstances, or how and when she came into Sarah’s possession. Her biblical biographer, who clearly considered her a minor character and would no doubt be astounded by the fascination she continues to provoke four millennia later, introduced her as a subtext in the ongoing tragedy of Sarah’s infertility and devoted only seven tiny biblical chapters to her.

Sarah and Abraham had many adventures, including a dangerous sojourn in Egypt, where the lovely Sarah unwittingly attracted the attention of Pharaoh, who wanted to induct her into his harem. Abraham saved the situation by claiming her as his “sister,” after which Pharaoh showered them both with gifts of sheep, oxen, donkeys, camels and slaves, both male and female, and likely black.

When Pharaoh learned that Abraham and Sarah had duped him, he ordered Abraham to take his wife and get out of Egypt. Considerately, he permitted them to keep all their livestock and slaves.

Abraham had become a man rich in everything but progeny, for Sarah was barren. This was not likely to change because she was by then seventy-six (or so the author of Genesis reports). No wonder Abraham despaired and prayed about his childlessness. Sarah blamed herself for her barrenness, which the ancient world considered such a curse that it was even grounds for divorce. But her society had a solution to infertility—a fertile concubine.

Which is where we first meet Hagar. “You see that the Lord has prevented me from bearing children,” Sarah said to her husband; “go in to my slave-girl; it may be that I shall obtain children by her.”

Abraham was agreeable, and Hagar had no say in the matter. Soon, despite being eighty-six, Abraham managed to impregnate her. But Hagar’s swelling belly transformed her. To Sarah’s astonishment, her docile and companionable slave woman metamorphosed into a self-confident, even arrogant, woman who looked down at Sarah with “contempt.” And why not? Hagar might be enslaved, but her womb was good enough to provide her owner’s husband with a legitimate heir.

Sarah was confused and vexed by Hagar’s attitude. She complained bitterly to Abraham, but he merely reminded her that as Hagar’s rightful owner, she could chastise her bondwoman however she wished. We do not know what Sarah did—one prescribed remedy for insolence was to scour the offender’s mouth with a quart of salt—but she acted so harshly that Hagar decided to run away.

Fortunately, an angel of the Lord found Hagar as she wandered in the wilderness: “Hagar, slave-girl of Sarai [‘Sarah’ is a variation of ‘Sarai’], where have you come from and where are you going?” Hagar explained her predicament. “Return to your mistress, and submit to her,” the angel ordered, but he softened this admonition by promising her children too numerous to count. “Now you have conceived and shall bear a son; you shall call him Ishmael [meaning ‘God hears’], for the Lord has given heed to your affliction.”

After this encounter, Hagar returned and gave birth to Abraham’s son, who was duly named Ishmael. Quite likely she delivered him squatting between Sarah’s legs, assisted by a midwife, in the customary “bearing on one’s knees” of a child destined to become the heir of its “social” mother rather than of the mother of its flesh and blood.

Hagar remained with Abraham and Sarah for thirteen more years, suckling and caring for Ishmael. Then came a miracle. God made a complicated covenant with Abraham that ended Sarah’s infertility. At first, Sarah laughed at so preposterous a notion. She was too old. How could she have sex, much less a child? But the Lord reproached her for laughing and asked her, “Is anything too wonderful for the Lord?”

Apparently nothing was, and Sarah conceived her son, Isaac. By then she was ninety, and Abraham one hundred. “Who would ever have said to Abraham that Sarah would nurse children? Yet I have borne him a son in his old age,” Sarah rejoiced.

Isaac grew into a robust child and Sarah weaned him. But one day, as she watched her little boy playing with his older half brother, Ishmael, she felt intense resentment. As Abraham’s first son, Ishmael would share his father’s inheritance. “Cast out this slave woman with her son!” Sarah cried to Abraham, “for this son of a slave woman shall not inherit along with my son Isaac.”

Abraham was deeply disturbed, though only on Ishmael’s account, not Hagar’s. He prayed for guidance, and God instructed him to do as Sarah demanded, for both Isaac and Ishmael would found great nations. The next morning, Abraham got up early, fetched a loaf of bread and a goatskin container of water, and called Hagar. Then this exceptionally wealthy man gave her these meager provisions and told her to take Ishmael, their adolescent son, and go away.

Bewildered, Hagar and Ishmael roamed about in the wilderness. Before long, they had eaten and drunk the last of their puny rations. In despair, Hagar led Ishmael to a bush, then walked away and sunk to the ground. “Do not let me look on the death of the child,” she wept.

But God was watching over her and again sent an angel. God will not let Ishmael die, the angel said, because he plans to build a great nation from his descendants. Hagar opened her eyes in amazement and saw that God had provided a well. She filled her goatskin and gave her thirsty son a drink.

For years Hagar and Ishmael lived out in the wasteland. They had contact with other people, and enough financial resources for Hagar to arrange Ishmael’s marriage to an Egyptian girl. Though the Hebrews had enslaved her, Hagar remembered and reclaimed her Egyptian heritage.

This is the end of Hagar’s story, though presumably not of her life. Biblical references to Ishmael tell us that God kept his promise to Hagar, because Ishmael had twelve sons, the princely founders of the Ishmaelite tribes. Ishmael himself survived until he was 137, the long-lived son of a long-lived father. (Abraham died at 175 years old, and Ishmael and Isaac together buried him in the cave of Machpelah.)

Hagar’s tenure as a concubine was short, but her plight resonates through the ages, in an extensive and growing literature. Millennia after she lived, her existence recorded in a few brief sentences, Hagar has become a symbol for the dispossessed and persecuted of the earth, a woman sexually and economically exploited, deprived of rights, cast out without succor. But unlike other women to whom these terrible things also happen, Hagar was saved from misery and doom by God himself.

Aspasia and Pericles
Aspasia2

In the mid-5th century B.C., the city-state of Athens eclipsed the rest of Greece; the democracy that prevailed there epitomized the finest of ancient Greek achievement. But Athens’s golden age did not gild Athenian women, who spent most of their lifetimes confined to their quarters. Foreign women were doubly damned, by their gender and their caste. One of them, Aspasia, an immigrant from Miletus in Asia Minor, attempted to overcome her disadvantaged status through her relationship with Athens’s leading statesman, Pericles.

Aspasia arrived in Athens after the debilitating Persian Wars had ended and the Five-Year Truce of 451 had halted hostilities between the Greek states. She came with her relatives, whom unspecified circumstances had forced out of Miletus. Despite the presence of her family members, her aristocratic birth and her good connections, she had no financial resources and was forced to seek paid employment.

Unfortunately for Aspasia, her arrival in Athens coincided with a glut of postwar immigration, which had driven Pericles to enact draconian measures to ensure the social superiority of the Athenian citizenry. He restricted citizenship to Athenians with two Athenian parents and drastically limited the rights of metics, foreigners such as Aspasia and her family. Anyone caught impersonating an Athenian citizen could be enslaved. Thanks to Pericles’ legislation, Aspasia could never marry an Athenian or enjoy even the meager rights of Athenian women.

These rights were few. Unlike their brothers, Athenian women were not potential warriors, so infant girls were often left exposed on hillsides for wild beasts to maul or devour. Those permitted to survive were indifferently educated, kept cloistered at home and taught only household skills. At the onset of sexual maturation, usually about age fourteen, their parents would marry them off to much older men who had completed their military obligations and were at last free to marry.

Married life was no liberation for Greek wives ensconced in their new homes. Athenian homes, like Greek houses generally, reflected the superior status of men. They were small, because men spent many of their days elsewhere, with other males. Most rooms opened onto a central courtyard. The dining room, or andron, was the largest and best-furnished room in the house, because men entertained there. But they excluded their wives, daughters and other female dependents from these events. They often invited hetaerae— top-drawer courtesans—or, if they were poorer, prostitutes to entertain them.

Women in ancient Athens had minimal rights and could only divorce their husbands if the latter consented. Their dowries alone provided some financial protection. In a society that praised decent, submissive and hardworking matrons, the most a woman could aspire to was a good reputation.

What, then, was the young metic to do in this macho city? Aspasia was not merely beautiful. She was also unusually intelligent, and unlike most Athenian women, she had managed to acquire an education, though she never revealed how. She began to teach rhetoric and philosophy, and soon earned such a reputation that Socrates himself claimed her as his teacher, or so Plato tells us in his Menexenus.3

Quite likely, Aspasia had initially supported herself by joining the nebulous world of the hetaerae, foreign-born women who traded sex, companionship and friendship for valuable gifts and money. Unlike prostitutes (and most wives), hetaerae were educated and cultured, elegant and sophisticated. Their wit, knowledge and ease of discourse distinguished them from other Greek women, and they conversed and debated on terms of intellectual equality with their male companions. Vase paintings depict them as slender, small breasted and ornately dressed, easily differentiated from heavier, unadorned Greek matrons.

Aspasia was about twenty-five when she met Pericles and inspired the passionate love that lasted until his death. But Pericles’ own laws of citizenship condemned her to life as his concubine and never his wife. Because he felt he could not live without her, Pericles moved Aspasia into his house. When Aspasia gave birth to baby Pericles, his illegitimacy and metic status did not trouble his father, who already had two legitimate sons.

Pericles was far from being the only admirer of Aspasia’s compelling intellectual and erotic presence. When she established a salon, Athens’s leading intellectuals, scholars and statesmen flocked there to debate politics and philosophy, and to maintain their social and political networks.

Aspasia did not confine her analyses to affairs of state. She also turned rigorous Socratic reasoning to the issue of spousal relationships, a subject that her own status must have spurred her to contemplate. Later writers Cicero and Quintilian reported a dialogue witnessed by the philosopher Xenophon, which Aspasia conducted with Xenophon’s wife. “Tell me,” Aspasia asked,

“if your neighbor’s gold jewelry was finer than yours, would you rather have hers or yours?”
“Hers.”
“So if her gown or accessories were more costly than yours, which would you prefer?”
“Hers, of course.”
“Well then, if her husband were better than yours, would you want hers or yours?”4

Xenophon’s wife reddened. Aspasia broke the embarrassed silence. To satisfy a longing for excellence in a partner, she explained, one must perforce be the best partner. Though eroticism is the dimension through which men and women express their devotion to each other, the key element in the attraction is virtue.

Fabricated or real, this argument suggests to us Aspasia’s views on relationships between men and women—that they enter them on the same terms and must be equally committed to seeking the path of virtue. In other words, Pericles’ mistress seems to have been an advocate of an egalitarianism monumentally at odds with the rigid stratification and codified inequality of her time and place.

Meanwhile, Pericles spent much of his time at home so he could be with Aspasia, but nonetheless devoted himself to the business of government and directing the restoration of the Athenian temples that were damaged or destroyed during the Persian Wars. Athenians by and large supported Pericles’ public policies, but the same could not be said for his not-so-private life. Citizens accused him of having ejected his wife from their home so he could install Aspasia in her place, ignoring the fact that he and his wife had divorced more than a decade before he ever met Aspasia. They also muttered that he should keep his concubine discreetly in the background as other men did—advice that Pericles disregarded. A groundswell of opposition to Aspasia mounted, and she, rather than Pericles, bore the brunt of it. She was slandered mercilessly in public forums and political broadsides. Comic poets outdid themselves with bawdy ripostes, likening Aspasia to Thargelia, the powerful Ionian courtesan and wife—of fourteen husbands!—who had used her immense influence to aid the enemy during the Persian Wars.

In 440 B.C., after the important city-state of Samos revolted against Athens, this campaign against Aspasia intensified. Though Pericles eventually quashed the revolt, his sneering opponents charged that his whore Aspasia had, for personal reasons stemming from her Miletian origins, convinced him to wage the ensuing Samian War. In Cheirones, the satiric writer Cratinus ridiculed both Pericles and Aspasia, whom he cursed as the Dog-Eyed Whore.

This label stuck, and more and more Athenians condemned Aspasia as a filthy and despicable harlot. Her reputation as a hetaera evoked other images, the crudely sexual ones on Greek vases and drinking cups that depict hetaerae naked, or lifting their robes to display their genitalia to potential clients. These clay-fired hetaerae engage in group sex, take a variety of positions and even obligingly bend over, bracing their hands against the floor to permit anal inter-course. Sometimes clients beat them on their bare buttocks with a shoe or other object to force them into unwelcome or painful sexual acts. Likening her to these caricatured women was the gutter level of the crusade against Aspasia, the refined intellectual, devoted mother and Pericles’ beloved companion.

The real reason for the backlash of bitterness and hatred against Aspasia was that she threatened the social fabric of Athens’s slave-based, male-run society, which expected its women to live as domestic drones or, if they were metics, forced them into even grimmer existences. Aspasia, female and foreign, should have borne the legislated burden of her dual disability. But she had escaped and somehow bamboozled their foolish old leader into disregarding both her gender and her status. Clearly, Aspasia was a danger to the established order, a revolutionary disguised as a seductress.

For a decade after the Samian debacle, Aspasia’s life continued to be domestically harmonious and intellectually enriching, but publicly nightmarish. In 431 B.C., at the onset of the Peloponnesian War, the verbal assaults intensified. The comic poet Hermippus launched a new attack, accusing her both of impious behavior and of pimping free-born Athenian women for Pericles. He succeeded in whipping up such public outrage that charges of immorality and treason were laid against Aspasia. Pericles notwithstanding, the popular will would prevail.

As a foreigner, Aspasia could not appear in court to defend herself. Instead, Pericles pleaded on her behalf. He wept as he spoke, his voice shaking with emotion, and communicated with such eloquence and conviction that the jury accepted his argument that Aspasia had been slandered, and it acquitted her of all charges.

This victory over malice and vilification bound Aspasia and Pericles even closer together. Soon after, she was publicly acknowledged as Pericles’ mate. But the loving couple was not destined to enjoy a comfortable old age together. Pericles’ military strategy of defending the Athenian empire by safeguarding its citizens and army within the city’s walls led to severe overcrowding and rampant disease. In 430 B.C., a terrifying plague killed one out of every three soldiers and one out of four civilians.

Pericles himself lost his first two sons, his sister and most of his relatives and friends. But most other Athenians also suffered terrible losses and in their frantic grief looked for someone to blame. Pericles was the obvious scapegoat, and he was ousted from office, charged and convicted of accepting bribes.

Pericles was now disgraced and dishonored, and without any heirs. Bad as this was, it provided Aspasia an unexpected benefit—her son Pericles Junior’s status had suddenly improved. Pericles, desperate for an heir, had to plead before Athenian officials that Pericles Junior, bastardized by his own xenophobic legislation, be legitimized. Athenians at last took pity on the ruined old man and granted young Pericles—but not Aspasia—citizenship. Nonetheless, her son’s success must have provided Aspasia with a good deal of satisfaction.

Pericles and Aspasia enjoyed a brief respite from persecution, during which he was rehabilitated and restored to office. But the pestilence in Athens raged on and soon carried him off as well, leaving his concubine alone and unprotected in the hostile, plague-stricken city.

Without Pericles—or should we say after Pericles?—Aspasia turned to another man, a sheep-dealer who was also a rising general. Her haste in establishing this relationship may seem to reflect badly on the sincerity of her affection for Pericles. She was probably not destitute; her son had inherited Pericles’ estate. Perhaps she felt she needed protection against a citizenry that hated her. Perhaps, too, she was attracted to Lysicles, who was dynamic, am bitious, wealthy and much closer to her age than Pericles had been. And after all, she must have concluded, given that Athenian laws stigmatized her as a foreigner and the Athenian citizens tormented her, her wisest course would be to replicate her relationship with Pericles and become the concubine of another powerful man capable of fending off her legions of enemies.

Aspasia had almost certainly become acquainted with Lysicles through Pericles. Perhaps Lysicles had been among those impressed by her intelligence and good looks. Her position as Pericles’ concubine might have appealed to him as well; after all, Pericles had defied his people in order to live with and honor this woman.

Whatever had motivated it, Aspasia’s union with Lysicles was brief. She had just borne him a son when Lysicles died in battle, and she was once again left to fend for herself, this time with an illegitimate baby.

But the Athenians could not leave her alone. When Aspasia was forty-five, Aristophanes launched a new and breathtaking attack. In his play Acharnians, he accused her of nothing less than causing the Peloponnesian War. The character Dikaeopolis details the events that triggered the war. According to the story, some young drunks sneaked into Megara and stole a whore called Simaitha. Furious, the Megarians retaliated—and stole two whores from Aspasia, whom they called a female pimp. Enraged by the theft of her whores, Aspasia hounded Pericles into launching the Peloponnesian War.

We do not know what happened to Aspasia after Lysicles’ death, though to this day her story generates scholarly debate and analysis. What is certain is that Aspasia was astute enough to assess her personal situation in middle age just as she had in her youth. She was aging and unprotected, a foreign woman in a society that feared and despised her. She had certain assets: fading good looks, a reputation for scintillating wit and formidable powers of reason, and a son who was Pericles’ legitimate heir. And she had a reputation as a whore, something that would certainly appeal to some men.

The likelihood is that Aspasia sought refuge in the protection of another man, just as she had very soon after Pericles died. A less likely scenario is that her eldest son, Pericles, assumed the role of her protector. Had that happened, we would expect some literary allusion, sardonic or otherwise, to mother and son. But Aspasia’s playwright tormentors were silent, and we may reasonably conclude that Aspasia allied herself with a man too insignificant to mention, moved away from Athens or died in obscurity.

Judging from the available traces of her teachings and beliefs, Aspasia was the champion of justice and virtuous living, and of balance in an unbalanced world. But as a perpetual alien and a woman governed by harsh Athenian laws and mores, she had to rely on her relationship with Pericles to achieve a measure of power and financial security.

Corinna
Corinna5

One of the most enigmatic and sensational of mistresses was “Corinna,” whom the great poet Ovid celebrated and immortalized in his collection of poems, Amores, though he never divulged her real identity. Corinna and Ovid conducted their tumultuous relationship in a Rome whose decadence was the target of imperial moral-reform legislation that hedonistic citizens observed mostly in the breach.

Two decades before the rise of Christianity, the Rome of Ovid and Corinna was a city both magnificent and terrible. It was crowded with fine villas and teeming slums, mighty aqueducts and public baths. It boasted sophisticated theaters but, at the same time, reveled in circuses where citizens cheered or jeered as trained lions eviscerated bound criminals (and later Christians), and archers slaughtered herds of terrified wild elephants and panthers. Roman markets were emporiums of produce from all over the empire, crammed with foodstuffs, silks and woolens, wine and fermented fish sauce.

Up on the Palatine Hill, the urbane and autocratic genius Caesar Augustus surveyed his empire and was dismayed by what he saw. Before the end of his reign in A.D. 14, he would recast his beloved but decaying Rome into marble buildings—the Marcellus Theater, Circus Maximus and eighty temples—as durable as his Pax Romana. He would also try to reform its citizens’ jaded morals with the Leges Juliae, laws that governed marriage, sexual relations and inheritance.

Decades of anarchy, insurrection and military campaigns had corroded Roman social values. Augustus, nostalgic for the old days, was especially concerned that Roman women were no longer like their virtuous foremothers, unassuming and devoted drudges. But why would they be? By conscripting men, war also transformed women.

When their husbands were away soldiering, most wives ran their households on their own, with wealthy women even administering large estates. With the sense of entitlement and contact with the outside world that this brought, inevitably, some women took lovers.

In peacetime, Romans did not revert to the mores of yesteryear. They delayed marriage but not sex, and higher-ranked men took concubines they could repudiate when it came time to wed a suitable bride. Many marriageable but unmarried women were left without any expectation that a suitable man would ever marry them. In this state of uncertainty, some women experimented with erotic if forbidden pleasures.

Rome’s collective self-indulgence at this time has never been rivaled. The citizenry was obsessed with amusements, and flocked to parties, theaters, sports events and circuses. Wealthy Romans gorged and vomited in a kind of socially sanctioned bulimia. When respectable women had retired for the night, their husbands often caroused with courtesans or prostitutes. Even the righteous Augustus, who made a fetish out of revering Livia Drusilla, his wife, had a well-deserved reputation as a philanderer.

In Augustus’s Rome, two standards coexisted, the legal and the actual. Like Greece, Rome was a slave-owning democracy whose free men—but nobody else—had rights and power. Free and freed women were substantially better off than slaves, but no woman, no matter how rich and powerful her family, had even a fraction of the rights that her brother was raised to expect or that her father already held.

The paterfamilias was a legal regime breathtaking in its subjugation of women. A father’s legal authority—patria potestas— was rooted in his own interests, not his wife’s or his children’s, even when the latter were adults. It began when the newborn was deposited at his sandaled feet so he could exercise his right of mortal triage. If Papa picked up the mewling boy or ordered that the girl be fed, he granted life. Otherwise, the little ones were smothered, starved or left on hillsides or riverbanks to be killed by wild animals. Not surprisingly, far fewer sons than daughters suffered this fate.

Most exposed baby girls died. A few were rescued by kindly well-wishers. Others were sought out and, after miserable childhoods in domestic servitude, sold into slavery or—much more commonly—raised to be prostitutes.

Even children not condemned at birth were far from safe. At any given moment, a father could sell them into a form of bondage, causa mancipii—slavery by another name. Angering Papa was a life-risking enterprise, and many fathers willfully destroyed vexatious offspring.

Marriage brought a daughter no relief. Her husband, chosen for her, replaced her father, often when she was still a child. If she dared to commit adultery, her husband could kill her. He could also beat her, even to death, for drinking wine. Wine testing (as opposed to wine tasting) developed into investigatory kissing, the ius osculi, which males exercised if they suspected their female relatives of imbibing anything alcoholic. Such was the condition of free women, and freed and slave women were still more degraded.

A Roman concubina had even less status than a wife. She was a free or freed woman who cohabited with a man who was not her husband. Men were not supposed to have both wife and concubine, at least not simultaneously. It made sense, then, for a man to take a concubine of inferior social status. That way, he could kick her out if she bore his illegitimate children or if he decided he was ready to marry.

Widowers also preferred to take a concubine rather than remarry. There was no commitment, and no threat to the inheritance of legitimate offspring should the concubine produce a bastard. Conveniently, neither she nor her child would have any legal claim on her lover or, after his death, on his estate.

Concubinage had a few benefits. It was a legal practice, and concubines were exempt from prosecution for adultery, though not from the charge of fornication. Occasionally, a lover managed to circumvent Rome’s oppressive laws and legally adopt his concubine’s child. Even less frequently, he would marry his concubine.

But privileged Romans acted as if none of the unforgiving laws existed. Unlike Livia Drusilla, Augustus’s wife, who wore determinedly simple and unflattering garments, the new Roman woman was neither unpretentious nor absorbed by her children. In fact, the birth rate had plunged because of the lead poisoning from the otherwise admirable aqueducts, as well as the effects of primitive forms of birth control and abortion.

Privileged women from good families no longer began the day with prayers then settled down to relentless domestic tasks. Now, a privileged woman awoke taut-faced and ghostly under the dried milk-and-flour mask she had applied before bedtime. After a slave girl brought water, the woman would rinse off the paste, then soak in her bath until the masseur, or unctor, appeared with his unguents to knead her limbs into suppleness. Immaculate and fragrant with scented oils, this lady dressed and had her hair combed, pinned, ironed or coaxed into a wreath of curls or prettily trailing plaits.

Afterward came whitening face powder, reddening cheek and lip rouge, and blackening ash or kohl eyeliner. The final touch was jewelry, fine stones from the vast empire, set in silver or gold and fashioned into rings, bracelets, necklaces, brooches and anklets.

For women attracted to this new and indulgent way of life, the rigorous beauty routine was a prelude to sexual adventure. Some women even modeled themselves on the Greek hetaerae. Augustus, horrified and disgusted to learn that females were just as interested in extramarital dalliance as he was, acted decisively against them.

This was the background to Augustus’s Leges Juliae (18–17 B.C.), famous for their repression of adultery, which was transformed into a criminal act and severely punished. But adultery applied only to wives who cheated on their husbands and to men who slept with other men’s wives, not to husbands who indulged with unmarried women. Widows and unmarried free women who dared to be sexually active risked being charged with the lesser crime of fornication. These new laws were designed to force women—in particular those of the elite class—to marry or remarry, and remain virtuous, submissive and housebound.

But as so often happens when penalties are too severe—convicted adulteresses lost half their dowry and one-third of their property, adulterers half their property, and all were exiled to faraway islands where enforcement was virtually impossible—the laws were rendered almost meaningless. Augustus did have one spectacular victory: the successful prosecution of his own daughter, Julia, one of Rome’s most notorious adulteresses.

The great Roman poet Ovid, an aristocratic, wealthy and supremely talented young man obsessed with women, love and sex, fit perfectly into this permissive world. At sixteen, Ovid married the first of his three wives, a teenaged bride he never ceased to belittle. At twenty-three, in his Amores, he introduced Corinna, his willful, sensual and unfaithful mistress. Romans responded with fiery enthusiasm, and a few ardent fans scribbled his verses on public walls. Quite possibly the content and great success of the Amores helped push Augustus to enact his puritanical legislation.

To this day, scholars still speculate about the identity of the pseudonymous Corinna. The most tantalizing suggestion is that she was actually Julia, Augustus’s defiant daughter, but the evidence for this hypothesis is shaky. Whoever she was, Corinna rises up from the couplets of Ovid’s searing poetry. With imagination, sympathy and shrewdness, we can come to know her.

Facts easily extrapolated from the Amores: Corinna was slightly older than Ovid and married to a much older man (a senile dodderer, in Ovid’s unkind words), and she cheated on both of them. Before she was twenty, she became the mistress of the man with whom she had her first orgasm. Afterward, she pouted and complained if a lover did not make her writhe during intercourse.

Corinna was as vain as she was lovely, and adept at applying cosmetics. She was self-possessed, tempestuous and passionate. She liked to tease Ovid and inflame his jealousy.

Corinna was also addicted to luxurious living. She shunned men who lacked the means to help her, and expected expensive gifts. Under the guise of being a fan of horse racing, she flirted with jockeys. She took risks, and she co-opted her servants, notably her maid Nape, into her amorous intrigues. She loved her poetic young lover, and he loved her even more.

Or perhaps Ovid was really in love with love, because in the midst of begging Corinna to love him forever, he admitted that

"... when you give me yourself, what you’ll be providing
Is creative material. My art will rise to the theme
And immortalize you...
Through poems, of course.
So you and I, love, will enjoy the same world-wide publicity,
And our names will be linked, for ever, with the gods."6

Ovid was right. Their lengthy affair provided him with material galore, a veritable soap opera of misery, ecstasy, miscommunication, intrigue, danger, threats, lies and comic surprise. The Amores is a brilliant depiction of the intimate workings of an elite Roman relationship.

Visualize this bitter exchange between the lovers as they discuss an upcoming formal banquet. Ovid fantasizes about the fun they will have together, until Corinna cautions him: I won’t be alone. My husband is also coming. Ovid, clearly not expecting this, responds with sullen fury, “I hope he drops down dead before dessert!”7

Ovid then reverts to suggesting coded gestures that only they will share: pretend to be the Respectable Wife, he urges Corinna, “but nudge my foot as you’re passing by.” During the general chatter, he would send her secret messages by raising his eyebrows or by tracing his words in wine. Corinna should touch her cheek whenever she thought about the last time they made love, or pinch her earlobe to signal that she was cross with him. At other parties, he reminds her, he sneaked his hand under her garment and masturbated her to climax, all sight unseen!

Ovid’s reflections prompt a gush of jealousy: don’t drink from a wineglass your husband’s lips have touched; spurn his embraces, especially those fingers roving under your dress to squeeze or caress “those responsive nipples.”

... Above all, don’t you dare
Kiss him, not once. If you do, I’ll proclaim myself your lover,
Lay hand upon you, claim those kisses as mine...

Ovid cannot bear the thought of Corinna’s husband making love to her. Pretend you’re frigid! Make sex a dead issue, he orders her, and, in parentheses, implores the goddess Venus to grant his prayer that neither his mistress nor her husband should enjoy sex together, “and certainly not her!”

Ovid reveled in Corinna’s physical beauty, and unhesitatingly described its intimate details: her lustrous long auburn hair as fine as a spider’s web, her soft white throat, her suggestive way of dressing, reminiscent (to him) of either an Eastern queen or a courtesan of the highest rank. When he stripped off these shimmering clothes and Corinna stood before him utterly exposed, Ovid catalogued the wonders of her nakedness: smooth shoulders, seductive nipples that invited fondling, flat belly beneath magnificent breasts, sweetly curvaceous rump and long lean thighs, and then.… At the genitals, even the uninhibited Ovid stopped his recital and simply described his own surrender to his mistress’s sensual perfections.

But when the lovers quarreled, Ovid could be cruel in his mockery, employing his sharp wit and critical eye to detail Corinna’s flaws. Once she dyed her masses of hair one time too many with a harsh compound made of leeches and vinegar, and also used hot irons to curl it into ringlets. Then her hair fell out in clumps, and she wept as she looked sadly into her mirror. Until it grew back, she would have to content herself with the false glory of a wig made from the hair of conquered German maidens. Ovid reproved her: And it’s all your very own fault!

Ovid also recorded his own reactions when Corinna got pregnant and, without telling him, had an abortion that nearly killed her. I should be furious but I’m only frightened, he noted with self-absorbed righteousness. Please, never again, he finishes.

Ovid felt sorely tried when Corinna “nagged” him for gifts. Weren’t his brilliant verses the most wonderful offering any woman could desire? But when Corinna, who loved silk gowns and gold jewelry, expected more tangible tokens, Ovid found her repellent. Stop making demands, he advised her coldly. I’ll give, but only when I feel like it.

When vexed, the impetuous Ovid succumbed to rages so fierce he later admitted he would have been capable of horsewhipping his own father or even the gods. Once, he yanked Corinna’s hair and raked her face with his fingernails, then watched, appalled, as she shrank in bewildered terror from him. But his self-recriminations lasted only seconds, and he could not refrain from chiding her: “At least remove the signs of my misdemeanor / Just rearrange your hair as it was before!”8

The mechanics of conducting the relationship also preoccupied Ovid. He and Corinna were excellent strategists, but they were helpless without the cooperation of Nape, Corinna’s personal maid. Nape was the perennial go-between, carrying notes and arranging meetings, often persuading a reluctant Corinna to slip out to Ovid’s house.

Despite their mutual passion, Corinna and Ovid deceived each other with different lovers. There was an awful night when Corinna barred Ovid from her home, then made love in her bedroom while he stalked her house like a specter. When his exhausted rival staggered out the next morning, he caught Ovid in the humiliating act of watching him. Whenever Corinna and Ovid quarreled and broke up, she would sit on his lap, stroke and sweet talk him into taking her back, and she was so beautiful that Ovid always melted. Please, he pleaded in his poetry, just don’t flaunt your infidelities. You’re far too lovely to be virtuous, because beauty and virtue are incompatible. But at least hide the hickeys, smooth your hair and make your bed before you receive me.

After several years as Ovid’s mistress, Corinna ended the relationship. Why? The Amores suggests she left him for a soldier, a virile brute with illicitly obtained financial resources. Did she catch Ovid in flagrante with her own hairstylist, whom he seduced, or with another dissatisfied wife? Or was it because Ovid, despite boasting that Corinna had once driven him to reach nine climaxes in a single night, suffered from more than occasional bouts of impotence, likely caused by lead poisoning from Rome’s famous aqueducts? As he confessed in wry verse in his Amores,

"When I held her I was limp as yesterday’s lettuce
a useless burden on an idle bed.
Although I wanted to do it, and she was more than willing,
I couldn’t get my pleasure-part to work.
... A sorry sight!
I lay there like a rotten log, a dead weight.
I even thought that I might be a ghost.”9

Whatever her reasons, Corinna disappeared forever from Ovid’s life, but not from the speculation of historians, who have tried and failed to identify her. What was her experience as Ovid’s mistress? How did she feel when she read her ex-lover’s new work, Ars Amatoria—a didactic poem that offered specific advice on love affairs?

Picture the middle-aged Corinna, a still-lovely widow whose ailing old husband has recently passed away. The Ars Amatoria is the season’s literary sensation. Her friends are all exclaiming over it, and her intimates know how much it owes to the tumultuous years Corinna spent as Ovid’s mistress.

Surely she was struck by Ovid’s cynicism, the barefaced effrontery of his calculated and analytical approach to mistressdom, when he had spoken with such heartfelt conviction of loving her forever! Now, he had sunk so low as to write an actual manual, with Book One advising how to find and win a mistress’s heart, Book Two how to keep her affections and Book Three, for mistresses, how to do the same with men.

How would the jaded Corinna react? Not with outrage or even surprise, for she had always known that Ovid’s art reflected his life, and that with every kiss, every lyrical sentiment, every provocative touch and every volcanic orgasm, he was taking mental notes. And Corinna had assumed the role of mistress knowing at least the outlines of the game. As the much younger wife of a man her parents had probably pressed her to marry, she had no interest in the old Roman wifely values of fidelity and child rearing. Instead, she had chosen to dissipate the long hours of her childless days in frenetic partying and entertainment, particularly at the racecourse, where the riders were as sleek and conditioned as their steeds.

Ars Amatoria must have seemed liked déjà vu, a replay of her early years as Ovid’s mistress. Technique is everything, Ovid began, and Corinna must have nodded knowingly. First, where to look for a mistress? Theaters, racecourses, circuses, banquets, even temples have excellent possibilities. (We met at a dinner party. I was wearing my purple silk dress, and my hair was coiled atop my head. You sat nearby and would not stop staring at me.) And remember, women are lustier than men and cannot resist a really skilled and persistent suitor. (How true, at least about the lustiness. But skill and persistence pay off only so far and, as you yourself discovered with me, can become annoying.)

Win over and bribe her servant to act as go-between and spy. (Ah, Nape, do you remember those days?) Make extravagant promises, spend little money. Seduce her with eloquent words, and indulge in marathon letter writing. (Cheap as ever, are you? I’ll take solid gold and emeralds any day.) Dress neatly, keep fit and clean. Feign drunkenness and declare your undying love. (So I was right to call you a liar! But I didn’t realize you weren’t really drunk.) Flatter her mercilessly, weep supplicating tears. If she barricades her door, climb onto the roof and slip down through a skylight or a window. Then, should she hesitate, take her by force, for women adore rough treatment and are disappointed if you allow them to fight you off. (So in the end, you learned nothing. You scorned soldiers, but you assaulted me so violently I was too terrified even to tell you to leave.)

If you cannot avoid quarreling, patch it up in bed. (We spent our time doing both.) If you need to, kiss her feet. When you make love, it’s essential that she, too, reach—or dramatically fake—orgasm. (Oh, so you hate it unless both lovers reach a climax? But what about all those nights when no matter how hard I tried, you stayed as limp as yesterday’s lettuce?)

Book Three must have put into stark perspective just how cavalier and condescending Ovid’s view of women must always have been. Don’t neglect your looks, for few of you are natural beauties. (But I was, and even now I am far from unattractive.) Hair is especially important. Style it elegantly, keep gray at bay with dyes or wigs. (I have to rely on a wig—my fine hair still can’t bear the harshness of dye.) Guard against stinking armpits and pluck away leg hairs. Use cosmetics: rouge, powder, eyebrow pencil. Keep teeth white and breath pure, or else a chuckle might cost you a lover. Learn music, poetry, dancing and games. Play hard, but not too hard, to get. During the act of love, adopt a sexy position, whisper forbidden words, moan with delirious pleasure and don’t open windows—your naked body is best left in semidarkness. (But not mine, O Poet—mine was perfection itself.)

Even when their mutual passion was at its steamiest, Ovid had not worried about Corinna’s possible reactions to his poetry. He had, however, feared a much more dangerous critic: Augustus himself. In 2 B.C., after having charged his daughter, Julia, with, adultery and exiling her, and a decade later banishing Julia’s daughter Vipsania Julia as well, Augustus turned on Ovid. He accused the great poet of encouraging adultery and exiled him to a far-off port city in present-day Romania. Ovid spent the remaining ten years of his life pleading, lobbying and groveling to return, but Augustus was adamant, and Ovid died in unhappy exile.

If she was still alive, Corinna must have been shocked. She, like most of her social circle, had been equally guilty. Ovid, however, had called attention to himself by becoming the Latin world’s supreme chronicler of illicit love, the world of mistressdom. She, Corinna, had merely indulged in it.

In choosing the pleasures of child-free mistressdom, Corinna rebelled against her arranged marriage and fashioned her own kind of life. She made choices: to reject Old Rome for the New, to seek out constant pleasure, to exact precious tributes to her loveliness, to decline motherhood. By her daring and cavalier disregard for the rituals of yesteryear, Corinna had dignified and made sense of her womanhood, if only in her own eyes.

Book cover "The Saint's Mistress", 2014, by Kathryn Bashaar despicting Dolorosa
Dolorosa10

In the historical record, Dolorosa—my imagined name for this sorrowful concubine—fares worst of all, for despite all his Confessions,11 the man who became Saint Augustine never once identified this woman who shared his life for fifteen years and bore his only son, Adeodatus.

This omission is not evidence of Augustine’s indifference. Indeed, he named Monica, his beloved mother, only once in his writings, though his best friends, Alypius and Nebridius, figure often, as do other males. In Augustine’s society, men mattered, but women, in all ways subordinate and lesser beings, did not. Nonetheless, Augustine shared the first half of his life with Monica and Dolorosa, and the depth and fervor of his attachment to them both was crucial in his development as a Christian, a teacher, a theologian and a careerist.

Of Dolorosa’s childhood and adolescence we know nothing. Her documented existence begins in A.D. 370, in Carthage, where she met the eighteen-year-old student Augustine, who loved her profoundly for far longer than the fifteen years they lived together. Alas, we can only extrapolate from Augustine’s childhood something of what Dolorosa encountered.

Augustine’s father, Patricius, was a pagan member of the civic aristocracy of Thagaste in what is now Tunisia. His was a prestigious but impecunious livelihood, so he and Monica worried constantly about how to finance the education of their son Augustine, an academic star in his village school and much brighter than Navigius, his brother, or Perpetua, his sister.

In 371, after one year at a provincial university and another spent restlessly waiting for Patricius to save up more money, Augustine arrived in Carthage to complete his education. For the young student and his fellows who converged on the great city from all over Africa, Carthage was a boiling cauldron of cosmopolitanism, licentiousness, danger and freedom. Augustine took up with a so-called demonic fraternity called Eversors—“shit-disturbers” would be an apt modern translation—who tormented newcomers and teachers by playing vicious pranks. He haunted theaters, seeking out tragedies so with his tears he could express and exorcise his personal sadness.

Augustine was tormented by lust as well, for at seventeen he was “in love with love” and driven by “a hidden hunger.” He sought out sexual adventure, later recalling how he had “raced headfirst into love, eager to be snared.”12 He was also jealous, suspicious and fearful, which led to angry outbursts and quarrels between Augustine and his companions. A few months into this libertine life, however, he met the submissive young Dolorosa.

At about the same time, Patricius died, leaving Monica alone to finance her son’s education. Augustine was by then acknowledged as the best student of rhetoric, and like other impoverished academic stars, he began to focus on a career—in his case, a lucrative position in imperial legal administration—and on honing the talents and social connections that could make it a reality.

Dolorosa fit perfectly into this scenario. Even in the Christianizing 4th century, students routinely kept concubines they later abandoned when they found suitable women to marry. Neither centuries nor Christianity had altered this institution. Concubinage was a long-term union and, for the woman, monogamous. Concubines were either slaves or social inferiors whom their lovers would not marry, an elitist perspective that the Christian Church Fathers supported. In fact, these men taught that sending a concubine (and her children) away was a moral improvement.

Concubines did, however, merit the honorific “Matron,” and though dis-empowered in their relationships, they were by no means social pariahs. Dolorosa was so devout and upright that the widowed Monica had no hesitation moving in with her and Augustine.

Later, Augustine described his years with Dolorosa: “In those years I had a woman. She was not my partner in what is called lawful marriage. I had found her in my state of wandering desire and lack of prudence.”13 Dolorosa understood and accepted her situation, and made a lifelong commitment to Augustine.

Augustine and Dolorosa had their frictions. Though both were intensely spiritual, they had crucial religious differences. Like Monica, Dolorosa was an orthodox Christian, and Augustine’s conversion to Manichaeism, a sect the Church later decreed heretical, must have deeply troubled her. Just as serious was Augustine’s perpetual struggle with the conviction that he was sinfully lustful, and that each surrender to his urges was a testimony to her overpowering sexual allure and a betrayal of his moral purity.

Postcoitally, Augustine berated himself for his insatiable lust, the “disease of the flesh” that afflicted him. His very vocal anguish must have pained and frightened Dolorosa, who believed that monogamous sexuality should be enjoyed as a God-given gift. Augustine insisted that concubinage was a mutual pact to indulge in physical lust, and so should not produce children, whereas Dolorosa disapproved of and, at least at the beginning, apparently resisted using birth control. The consequence was that when Augustine was nineteen, Dolorosa gave birth to their son, Adeodatus—“Given by God,” a popular name among Carthage’s Christians. Adeodatus was unplanned and unwanted (Augustine later said), but as soon as he was born, he became a much-beloved little boy.

For the next thirteen years, Augustine, Dolorosa and Adeodatus lived together happily. Unlike Patricius, who did not hide his extramarital love affairs, Augustine was monogamous, a considerable achievement in an age of flagrant male infidelities. He had, he said, taken up with Dolorosa in a period of raw emotion and reckless sexual appetite, yet “she was the only one, and I remained faithful to her.”

Like Monica, Dolorosa was probably an uneducated but intelligent woman who had much to contend with: Augustine’s soaring intellect; the intense male friendships he valued over his union with her; his complaints that her sensuality wrought havoc with his attempts to focus on studying philosophy; his Manichaeism; his internal turmoil as he debated his future; their shared parenting of little Adeodatus; and the news that Monica was moving in.

At the same time, much else about Dolorosa’s situation was good. Augustine excelled as a rhetoric teacher and earned them a decent living, though he complained about the unruliness of Carthaginian students. He never betrayed her with other women, and he doted on Adeodatus, a gifted and obedient child. When Monica arrived, she proved to be very friendly, sharing Dolorosa’s religious convictions and her uneasiness at Augustine’s erroneous views. Above all, Monica adored her brilliant grandson.

Nonetheless, Dolorosa’s life with Augustine and his mother was often troubled. Manichaeism preached that childlessness was the least sinful form of concubinage, and so after Adeodatus was born, Augustine insisted on birth control. And though he loved his son, Augustine was tormented by guilt that he had created Adeodatus in sin, a thought he voiced openly and repeatedly. He never referred to Dolorosa as a mother, only as his concubine. He also debated, with his friends and his mother, sometimes presumably in Dolorosa’s presence, the advisability of marriage—not to Dolorosa—as a career move.

Monica’s love was obsessive—this most pious of mothers pursued her son over land and sea so she could live with him, Augustine recalled—and also became burdensome. Though he rationalized and accepted it, he also craved independence, or at least a brief respite from his mother’s overbearing presence. In 383, more than a decade into his union with Dolorosa, Augustine took action. He fled in the night, secretly, with Dolorosa and Adeodatus, and sailed away to Rome. For Dolorosa, his accomplice, their joint getaway must have been fraught with nuances, most of them unpleasant.

Rome proved disappointing. Augustine attracted an abundance of followers, but quickly learned that Roman students, too, were no angels: they learned as much as they could from one teacher, then transferred en masse to a new one.

Frustrated and in financial difficulty, Augustine prevailed on his Roman Manichaean contacts to obtain for him the position of public orator in Milan, where he had previously traveled and heard the great Ambrose (who was later to become Saint Ambrose). Ambrose had not encouraged the young rhetorician with the awkward African accent; nonetheless, Ambrose’s impressive oratory had convinced Augustine that his own future lay in Milan. Soon, Augustine converted from Manichaeism to mainstream Christianity. Then Monica arrived from Carthage and settled down in their new home. Dolorosa undoubtedly rejoiced with Monica at Augustine’s newfound religious conviction, the bedrock of her own spirituality, but the next stage of his personal development could only have grieved her.

First came relentless discussions about how marriage to an heiress would catapult the talented but unwealthy Augustine into a splendid career. Augustine wavered, torn between the argument of his best friend, Alypius—that marriage would quash their project of forming a monastic community devoted to the pursuit of wisdom—and his own conviction that marriage was the very thing to stoke his professional success. Monica assured him that marriage would ready him for the baptism that would wash away his sins, and she flung herself into the project of finding a candidate.

Did Dolorosa voice any objections, or did she—with sinking heart—agree with Monica? Augustine later portrayed her as a woman who subjected her will to his and accepted his decisions without objection. But she must have suffered; after fifteen years and a son together, she must have mourned and regretted and wept, even in silence, at this unraveling of her life.

Augustine and Monica, meanwhile, aggressively sought a suitable wife. They found a girl, still a child, whom Augustine met and “liked well enough” to demand in marriage. Her parents agreed, and the pair was betrothed, though her age required a waiting period of almost two years. But the continued presence of Dolorosa under Augustine’s roof, in Augustine’s bed—and, had they only known it, indelibly etched in his heart—distressed his future parents-in-law. Dolorosa, suddenly, was the proverbial fly in the ointment, and she had to be plucked out. Augustine, or perhaps Monica, gave her the bad news.

Meekly, without causing a scene, Dolorosa said she understood. For the sake of Augustine’s material and spiritual well-being, she would voluntarily remove her no-longer-welcome self from the premises. What did she feel besides racking grief as she said her final farewells to her beloved Augustine and her only child? Unlike almost all other men who sent away their concubines, Augustine had decided to keep his (illegitimate) son with him. What words of comfort did Dolorosa wrench out of her bursting heart for Adeodatus as he watched his mother pack her trunks?

Dolorosa set sail again for her African homeland, alone, pledging never to give herself to another man. Her departure broke Augustine’s heart, crushed it into a bleeding organ of pain (he said), and though the sharpness of his lust drove him to take up with another concubine while waiting for marital sex with his child bride, he never recovered from the blow of losing Dolorosa. Then God spoke to him, commanding him to refrain from sexual intercourse with a concubine and to rethink his plan to marry. Augustine responded instantly and became celibate.

We can assume that the aftermath of the ruptured love affair was at least as painful for Dolorosa as for Augustine, who never really recovered. He reneged on his betrothal and devoted himself to advancing in the Church, where he was becoming a major figure. But he continued to mourn his lost sweetheart. Their relationship might well have endured for a lifetime had not Augustine’s disgust at his powerful sexuality, reinforced by his personal ambitions, driven him to renounce his lower-caste concubine.

Dolorosa’s solitary life continued, for her death was an event Augustine would have noted. Yet he wrote only about his own agony, his own regrets, his own suffering. If he ever inquired about her, sent her money or notified her when sixteen-year-old Adeodatus died, he did not mention it. She must have known, however, that in 389 Augustine returned to Africa, that two years later he was ordained as a priest, and that in 396 he became bishop of Hippo. She must have felt great satisfaction that he had been ordained in her form of Christianity, and that he had soared in the Church hierarchy.

Centuries later, Augustine’s conversion to orthodox Christianity is still unfairly credited to Ambrose instead of to the woman who had urged it on him for fifteen years. Instead of being honored for her enormous contributions to her lover’s spiritual development, Dolorosa has passed into history unnoticed and unnamed, apart from her legal and sexual status as Augustine’s concubine.

Notes

1 The most important source for this section is the Book of Genesis, chapters 16–21:21 and 25:1–18. I used the The New Oxford Annotated Bible (New York: Oxford University Press, 1989), supplemented by the following articles that clarify, illuminate and hypothesize about the relevant section in the Book of Genesis: John Otwell, And Sarah Laughed: The Status of Women in the Old Testament (Philadelphia: Westminster Press, 1977); Savina J. Teubal, Hagar the Egyptian: The Lost Tradition of the Matriarchs (San Francisco/New York/Grand Rapids: Harper & Row, 1990); Phyllis Trible, Texts of Terror (Philadelphia, USA: Fortress Press, 1984); John W. Waters, “Who Was Hagar?” in Stony the Road We Trod: African American Biblical Interpretation. The Book of Genesis, 16:1–16, 21:8–21, narrates the dramatic story of Hagar in a very few verses that remain tremendously contentious, as scholars continue to debate their true meaning. This includes rereading of the biblical texts and of legal documents and codes then operative, and rigorous analysis, comparison and deconstruction of the texts. I have read, reflected and—with some trepidation—arrived at my own understanding of this shadowy figure who has cast such a long shadow over the centuries. (Phyllis Ocean Berman’s article “Creative Hidrash: Why Hagar Left,” Tikkun 12, [March–April 1997], 21–25, notes that she and her fellow students in Hebrew school heard “the story of the competition between Sarah and Hagar not just once but twice a year in the Torah reading cycle.” No wonder Hagar continues to fascinate and attract such concentrated and sometimes bitter attention.)
2 The main sources for the following section are http://langmuir.physics.uoguelph.ca/~aelius/hetairai.html; Shannon Bell, Reading, Writing & Rewriting the Prostitute Body (Bloomington and Indianapolis: Indiana University Press, 1994); Eva Cantarella, tr. by Maureen B. Fant, Pandora’s Daughters: The Role and Status of Women in Greek and Roman Antiquity (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1987); James N. Davidson, Courtesans and Fishcakes: The Consuming Passions of Classical Athens (London: HarperCollins, 1997); Nancy Demand, Birth, Death and Motherhood in Classical Greece (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1994); Robert Flacelieve, Love in Ancient Greece (London: Frederick Muller Ltd., 1960); Roger Just, Women in Athenian Law and Life (London, New York: Routledge, 1989); Eva C. Keuls, The Reign of the Phallus: Sexual Politics in Ancient Greece (New York: Harper & Row, 1985); Jill Kleinman, “The Representation of Prostitutes Versus Respectable Women on Ancient Greek Vases.” Available online at http://www.perseus.tufts.edu/classes/JKp.html (1998, Aug. 6); Hans Licht, Sexual Life in Ancient Greece (London: George Routledge & Sons, Ltd., 1932); Sarah B. Pomeroy, Goddesses, Whores, Wives, and Slaves: Women in Classical Antiquity (New York: Schocken Books, 1975).
3 Bell, 32–38, analyses the meaning of Menexenus’s many references to Aspasia as a teacher responsible for numerous political speeches attributed to her pupils, including Pericles.
4 Madeleine Mary Henry Prisoner of History: Aspasia of Miletus and Her Bibliographical Tradition (New York: Oxford University Press, 1995), 44, citing Cicero and Quintilian, who both preserved this fragment.
5 The main sources for the following section are Richard A. Bauman, Women and Politics in Ancient Rome (New York: Routledge, 1992); Eva Cantarella, tr. by Maureen B. Fant, Pandora’s Daughters: The Role and Status of Women in Greek and Roman Antiquity (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1987); Jane F. Gardner, Women in Roman Law and Society (Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1986); Ellen Greene, The Erotics of Domination: Male Desire and the Mistress in Latin Love Poetry (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1998); Mary R. Lefkowitz and Maureen B. Fant, Women’s Life in Greece and Rome: A Source Book in Translation (2nd ed.) (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1992); Sara Mack, Ovid (New Haven: Yale University Press, 1988); Ovid, tr. and ed. by Peter Green, The Erotic Poems (New York: Penguin Books, 1982); Sarah B. Pomeroy, Goddesses, Whores, Wives, and Slaves: Women in Classical Antiquity (New York: Schocken Books, 1976); Ronald Syme, History in Ovid (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1978); John C. Thibault, The Mystery of Ovid’s Exile (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1964); L. P. Wilkinson, Ovid Recalled (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1955).
6 Ovid, tr. and ed. by Peter Green, “The Amores: Book 1,” in The Erotic Poems, 89.
7 Ibid., 89.
8 Ibid., 97.
9 Ovid, “The Amores,” III, 7, in Diane J. Rayor and William W. Batshaw (eds.), Latin Lyric and Elegiac Poetry: An Anthology of New Translations (New York: Garland Publishing, 1995).
10 The main sources for this section are Antti Arjava, Women and Law in Late Antiquity (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1996); St. Augustine, Confessions (London: Penguin Books, 1961); Gerald Bonner, St Augustine of Hippo: Life and Controversies (London: SCM Press Ltd., 1963); William Mallard, Language and Love: Introducing Augustine’s Religious Thought Through the Confessions Story (University Park: Pennsylvania: Pennsylvania University State Press, 1994); Margaret R. Miles, Desire and Delight: A New Reading of Augustine’s Confessions (New York: Crossroad Publishing Co., 1992); Kim Power, Veiled Desire: Augustine on Women (New York: Continuum Publishing Co., 1996).
11 Like Pericles and Ovid for Aspasia and Corinna, Augustine is our primary source for Dolorosa. Hence the importance of his Confessions.
12 Bonner, 54.
13 Power, 98.

By Elizabeth Abbott in "Mistresses - A History of the Other Woman", Overlook Duckworth, New York/London, 2010, excerpts chapter one. Adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.



IN THE STYLE OF THE GAUCHOS: A BRAZILIAN BARBECUE

$
0
0

There are many kinds of feasts based to one degree or another on rituals of either a formal or a highly casual nature. They exist in almost every culture and numerous ones come to mind. In China, there are the elaborate “fire pots” or Mongolian hot pots wherein foods, fish, meat and vegetables, are cooked at the table by guests who stand around a communal and decorative steaming device.

There are the simple and traditional raclettes or fondues of Switzerland whereby guests share melted cheese from a single simmering earthenware pot.

And in America there is the enormously convivial, colorful—and, if properly done, backbreaking for the pit-makers—ritual known as a clam-bake.

One of the grandest ritual feasts in the world is of agrarian origins and comes from Brazil. This is the churrasco à gaucha, the traditional feast of southern Brazil, specifically from the state of Rio Grande do Sul, the center of the nation’s cattle country.

I was recently involved in a highly sophisticated version of the churrasco à gaucha—all of it assembled under the expert guidance of Dorothea Elman, a redoubtable, enthusiastic cook, an old friend and a native of Rio de Janeiro whose husband, Lee, is an investment banker.

“Although the churrasco had basically humble origins—in the beginning it was nothing more than a cattleman’s lunch or dinner made of freshly killed beef cooked over an open fire—the meal is tremendously popular in Rio and São Paolo,” she said.

The meal she was preparing during the day was to be cooked and consumed late in the afternoon, at long tables situated next to a charcoal pit where the assorted meats—beef ribs, chicken, pork, lamb and sausages—would be grilled over hot ashes.

The time in which the meat would be grilled would be sufficient to unleash the hounds of hunger, the enraged appetite only partially assuaged by morsels of spicy Brazilian sausages wrapped in foil and buried in the hot coals. These are taken with a seemingly innocent, superficially innocuous and irresistible but potent Brazilian elixir known as caipirinha made with the clear distillate of sugar cane, lime and sugar over ice.

The meats, still amber and still sizzling, would be removed from the long skewer and cut, sliced or carved with an ingeniously, seductively seasoned salad of mixed vegetables—bits of broccoli, cauliflower, green beans, zucchini, green peas, carrots and so on blended in a tangy mayonnaise. That tops a platter of buttery farofa, a splendid dry cereal dish cooked with banana. And to bind the meat together, to give it an exceptional and uncommon fillip, a spicy onion sauce, made of oil and vinegar, chopped parsley and coriander.

Before noon the pit had been dug. A neat rectangular hole, 4 feet long, 3 feet wide and 14 inches deep. Ten logs would be burned and 40 pounds of charcoal heaped onto that. Gaucho knives, not essential to the ceremony but appropriate, had been shipped by air from Brazil. Long iron skewers had been obtained.

Before the meal began the long tables had been covered with sheets of heavy brown wrapping paper as is done in Brazil.

Forks and knives were provided plus linen napkins, although the churrasqueira (that’s the female name of the person who cooks the meal; the male is churrasqueiro) explained that these were civilized conceits; the gauchos use their fingers.

Mrs. Elman told us that she had arranged the feast as a preliminary to celebrating the national day of Brazil. For the feast, to be drunk with the churrasco, there was excellent imported Brazilian beer labeled Brahma Chopp.

Mrs. Elman went about her business of preparing foods and cooking them as well with cool, assured dedication and determination awesome to behold. The meats were threaded or simply impaled on parallel skewers and when the coals in the pit were properly ashen, she shoved the metal bottoms into the earth with a powerful, educated thrust, taking care that the foods on the rods were neatly centered directly over the heat. The skewers were inserted into the earth at a 10- or 14-degree angle, centering the foods about 12 to 14 inches from the heat.

As the meats were seared on one side, the skewers were deftly turned so that the other side would roast. The moment the meats were turned, she would dip a neatly tied and sizable bundle of leaves together to use as a basting “mop.” She would swish the mop inside the vessel containing a basting brine made of water, garlic and salt, then onto the meats.

“You wait until the meats are seared on one side before basting them with the brine. After that you must brush them often. And if the flames start in the pit and under the meat, you must extinguish them at all times with a dash of brine from the mop.

“Take care,” she added, “that the meats don’t burn. Just let them get nice and crisp on the outside and cooked inside.”

As the meats were ready for eating, the skewers were removed and the tips wiped off with a clean damp rag. The meats were removed, transferred to a cutting board and sliced or carved and served piping hot.

“There’s one thing to remember,” Mrs. Elman advised. “If you plan to cook at one of these, don’t ever plan to sit with the guests until the end of the meal. That’s why the table should be close to the pit. So you can cook and talk at the same time.”

Work List for a Churrasco à Gaucha (for 12 to 16 people)

• A pit measuring about 3 feet by 4 feet by 14 inches
• 6 or 8 metal skewers, preferably flat rather than round, each measuring about 4½ to 5 feet in length
• 10 to 12 fireplace logs
• 40 pounds charcoal (preferably pure charcoal or charcoal briquettes)
• Brown paper to cover dining tables
• Forks, knives, napkins—either linen or paper
• A cutting block or slab for preparing meats after they are cooked
• A basting “mop” made of nontoxic leafy branches tied together or a large purchased basting utensil
• Sponge and clean cloths to wipe off the ends of skewers.

(Dorothea Elman, a Native of Brazil, Prepares a Cattleman’s Dinner.)

In "The Essential New York Times Grilling Cooking Book", edited by Peter Kaminski, Sterling Epicure, New York, 2014. Adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.

WHAT ARE PROBIOTICS?

$
0
0

CAS number: 308084-36-8

Synonyms or siblings : Lactobacillus, Acidophilus, Acidophilus bifidus, Acidophilus lactobacillus

In order to grow probiotics, scientists can harvest as little as one cell of the purified bacteria. They must take exquisite care to properly feed the cells and control their environment and fermentation process.

Description

Probiotics are the opposite of antibiotics, and you need them in your body—they are present in your intestinal system. They are called your gut flora, and your belly is full of them. They may be made from stuff in your body, but you can easily add more to your system by eating familiar foods.

Probiotics are live microorganisms such as bacteria or yeast that, in adequate amounts, we think benefit our health. More than 500 kinds of “good” bacteria live in our digestive systems, working hard to keep us healthy. They perform basic functions such as digesting food and helping maintain our immune systems.

In the early 2000s, food product marketers put probiotics on a pedestal with organic food and other highly salable food and nutrition trends and the market for them exploded. Though there are relatively few studies, some work done in the 1980s and 1990s indicated that probiotic supplements could help fight digestive disorders such as rotaviral diarrhea and lactose intolerance. Friendly organisms, the thinking goes, can improve intestinal function that may have been disrupted by a bacterial imbalance, intestinal condition, vaginal infection, a treatment of antibiotics, or surgical (physical) damage. (Check with your doctor before taking any probiotics if you are pregnant, nursing, have intestinal damage, immune problems, or any other worrisome condition. They can cause problems or may be mislabeled.)

Despite these initial reports, medical science in general is not all that excited about probiotics for a number of reasons, most of which stem from a lack of sufficient and thorough studies. Don’t hold your breath for more scientific research. Because probiotics are a supplement, they aren’t regulated or approved by the FDA and thus manufacturers are not likely to pay for costly and time-consuming studies. Still, doctors can and do prescribe specific strains of probiotics for specific health issues. Probiotics do appear to be part of a healthy diet when they are ingested in their natural form.

And what is that elusive-sounding natural form? Yogurt—as long as it is labeled to contain live and active cultures (lactobacillus acidophilus is the most common; these are found in your mouth, intestine, and vagina)—kefir, and soft fermented cheese. You can also find them in most fermented food: kimchi, pickles made without vinegar, unpasteurized sauerkraut, buttermilk, sourdough bread, miso, and tempeh. The consumer searching for a particular bacteria and dose has to rely on a precisely labeled supplement or food product, such as “acidophilus milk.”

If you want an even bigger boost for your bacteria buck, eat foods known as prebiotic—they feed the probiotic bacteria. Good examples of prebiotics are asparagus, bananas, oatmeal, honey, many legumes, and, happily, red wine. Some foods, called symbiotics, naturally combine both pre- and probiotics. Yogurt and kefir are the best examples of symbiotics.

Manufacturing probiotics is simple but costly, which is why there are only a few major manufacturers in the world. The three biggest companies got their start in the dairy business and also make yeast. This expensive process begins in a laboratory, where desired microorganisms are harvested from living sources (animal or plant), identified, and isolated. The good news is that the microorganisms are naturally self-replicating—all you need to do is feed them.

In order to grow probiotics, scientists can harvest as little as one cell of the purified bacteria. They must take exquisite care to properly feed the cells and control their environment and fermentation process. The lab starts with 1 milliliter of “seed” bacteria in the bottom of a test tube frozen in liquid nitrogen at -112 degrees Fahrenheit. Days later, after a series of controlled overnight fermentations in a perfectly clean and highly computerized plant, that seed’s offspring will fill a 30,000-liter, two-story-high stainless steel tank.

The final liquid result can be freeze-dried, powdered, and sent to clients in the animal nutrition, winemaking, baked good, and, of course, nutritional supplement industries. Supplements are blended with neutral ingredients—rice maltodextrin is popular—for packaging as capsules at the desired strength, and the natural stuff becomes a processed item.

Text by Steve Ettlinger in "Ingredientes- A Visual Exploration of 75 Foods and 25 Food Products", Dwight Eschliman (photographer), Regan Arts, New York, USA, 2015. Adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.

WHAT IS GELATIN?

$
0
0

E number: E441

CAS number: 9000-70-8

Synonyms or siblings : Gelatine, Collagen hydrolysate, Hydrolyzed collagen protein

Function

Process and prep-stabilizer, thickening agent

Gelatin is an element in paper coating, printing, and electroplating. Fish skin–sourced gelatin was once prized for etching computer chips.

Description

Nope, gelatin is not made from horns and hooves! Along with the monosodium glutamate (MSG) “Chinese food syndrome” myth, this is one of the most persistent. It is made, however, from cow bones and hides, pigskins and bones, and sometimes even some fish skin. The bones and hides are degreased, dried, and crushed, then soaked in dilute hydrochloric acid, soaked in an alkali (lime, calcium hydroxide, or sodium hydroxide) wash, soaked in acid again, and cooked in hot water. The pigskins are chopped, washed in water, soaked in acid, and washed again. From that point on, both are treated the same, subject to cooking in hot water (“hot water extraction”), producing a resultant slurry that is then filtered, concentrated, sterilized, chilled, extruded, dried, and finally milled into a powder. (Fish skins are mostly just boiled.)

That’s a long list for what is essentially the extraction of protein from bones and skins in a process that’s technically called the partial hydrolysis conversion of collagen. This collagen is the single most common protein in mammals; it’s the main organic component of the white connective tissues, skin, and bones of the animals we eat (hooves, horns, and hair are made of keratin, not collagen). We use around 360,000 tons a year of the stuff, a third of which is used in Europe alone.

Gelatin is popular for many reasons, among them the fact that because it consists of 19 amino acids, it is both nutritious and nonallergenic. Besides being a popular dessert with the addition of sugar, flavor, and color (100 million pounds of gelatin desserts are sold each year in the United States), it is used in food products to bind, stabilize, thicken, and clarify things. Gelatin works as a gel former in desserts, lunch meats, consommé, and confections. It works as a whipping agent in marshmallows, nougats, mousses, and whipped cream, and as a protective suspension gel in icings, ice cream, and other frozen desserts, as well as a binding agent in canned meats, cheese, and various dairy products. Gelatin serves as a film on fruit, meat, and deli items; as a thickener in powdered drink mixes, gravies, sauces, soups, puddings, jellies, syrups, and dairy products; and as a processing aid and encapsulator of colors, flavors, oils, and vitamins.

It also functions as an emulsifier in cream soups, sauces, flavorings, whipped cream, confections, and dairy products; as a stabilizer in cream cheese, chocolate milk, yogurt, icings, cream fillings, and frozen desserts; and as a kind of glue to bind together layers of confections, decorative sprinkles onto candies, frostings onto baked goods, and seasonings onto meats. And lest we forget, it works as a clarifying agent (“fining”) in beer, wine, fruit juice, and vinegar production—it is sprinkled in and binds with whatever is clouding the beverage, settles to the bottom, and then is filtered out. With this breadth of uses, gelatin is too ubiquitous for vegetarians and vegans to avoid completely. There is no true vegetable source of gelatin, though there are plenty of alternative binders, emulsifiers, thickeners, and the like made from corn and seaweed, notably agar and carrageenan.

People have been cooking bones for gelatin for a long time. This makes sense since cooking bones is not too far removed from simply cooking meat. Records exist showing gelatin production from as far back as around 1685 in the Netherlands and from about 1700 in England; a patent for gelatin production was first granted there in 1754. It was first produced commercially in the United States in 1808, probably for pharmaceutical use. A US patent for “portable gelatin” was issued in 1845. Since 1932, it’s the stuff that hard, two-piece capsules and softgels (“soft elastic gelatin capsules”) are made of; in the case of softgels, gelatin is combined with a little propylene glycol [p. 136] and sorbitol.

Gelatin is also part of tablets, granules, and other common forms of medicines and cosmetics, most often as some kind of binder. It’s used to size artificial yarns, bind abrasives to sandpaper, and make matches. Gelatin is an element in paper coating, printing, and electroplating. Fish skin–sourced gelatin was once prized for etching computer chips. Since 1870, when a British doctor named Richard Leach Maddox discovered gelatin was far superior to the fussy, wet-collodion photographic process, gelatin has been the base of almost all photographic film and paper.

But best of all, it completely melts in your mouth.

Text by Steve Ettlinger in "Ingredientes- A Visual Exploration of 75 Foods and 25 Food Products", Dwight Eschliman (photographer), Regan Arts, New York, USA, 2015. Adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.

ERRORS AND DISAPPOINTMENT OF KING JAMES BIBLE

$
0
0

History is silent about events between the general meeting and the eventual publication of the King James Bible in 1611. It’s likely that the final printed version was prepared, not as we might have expected from a full manuscript of the translators’ work, but from scribblings onto a particular copy of the Bishops’ Bible. The transcript had been unbound and its individual pages separated. The translators’ amendments and alterations were little more than notes in the page margins. The whole thing had been passed on to the printers to prepare the final version.22

This sounds like a clumsy way of going about things. Notes in the margins are unlikely to be very clear, the possibility of misprints finding their way into the printed text is very high. It would seem more reasonable to assume, even at the dawn of printing technology, that the printers would receive a clean copy of the translation, proofread and laid out the way the editors wanted it to appear. But there is an annotated Bishops’ Bible in Oxford’s Bodleian Library23 which contains a clue suggesting that this was the copy that was sent to the printers. A direct translation of the original Hebrew in Hosea 6.5 reads ‘Therefore I have hewn them, through the prophets’ and from its second printing onwards the King James Bible reads ‘I have hewed’. But the first printing reads ‘I have shewed’. Presumably the printers of the second edition assumed this was a misprint; ‘shewed’ is not a correct translation of the Hebrew and it is quite reasonable to assume that a careless printer slipped in an extra ‘s’ at the front of ‘hewed’ by mistake. But that is not so. The hand-written margin notes in the Bodleian Library’s copy of the Bishops’ Bible also read ‘I have shewed’. This strange rendering may have been an attempt by the translators to make sense of a difficult Hebrew verse, but it raises the possibility that the first edition of the King James Bible was printed from the Bodleian’s annotated version of the Bishops’ Bible, and not as we might have expected, from a clean, well-laid-out draft.24

The details of how and when the King James Bible was published are equally cloudy. Because it was little more than an upgrade on previous versions of the Bible it was never registered as a new publication in the Stationers’ Register, the official register of published books. Nor is there any record of its actual publication date. And even though it is known as the Authorized Version, no document has ever been found granting it this title, nor declaring that it is indeed Authorized. It is not even known whether James’s stipulation that the Bible be ratified by royal authority was ever carried out.

Given the unlikely manner of its production, it is not surprising that the newly published Bible was full of errors. And not just because the Bible may have been typeset from hand-written notes in the margin. Early printing was still a laborious, complicated process. The printed King James Bible comprised 366 sheets, of four pages each. Each sheet needed to be typeset, printed and proofread individually. All this required considerable effort and the opportunity for slip-ups was substantial. Then there was the question of cost. Printing may have been cheaper than manuscript writing, but it was still expensive. Corners were cut wherever possible to try and save money. David Norton counts 351 printer errors in the first edition and another 28 ‘hidden’ mistakes, where a typo would not be noticed because the reading continues to make sense, even though it is wrong. Like the misprint in Daniel 6.13 which reads ‘the children of the captivity’ instead of ‘the captivity of the children’. But, as Norton points out, this number of less than 400 words represents about one mistake for every three and a half chapters, which is not bad, considering the scale of the task. Certainly none of the errors come close to the classic misprint in the 1631 ‘Wicked Bible’ which forgot to include the word ‘not’ in ‘Thou shalt not commit adultery’. The careless printers of that edition were fined £300; every copy they had sold was recalled, their entire stock destroyed and their licence to print the Bible revoked. But not every owner of the Wicked Bible returned their copy. It is still, according to some internet sites, possible to acquire one. It will cost you in the region of $100,000.

Despite the build-up, the effort and the expectation, when the King James Bible hit the market, it flopped. It didn’t win many fans among the general public, and as every church already had their Great Bible, most were not willing to run to the cost of replacing it with the new version. A long time passed before it found favour. Oliver Cromwell’s puritan-leaning Protectorate, which had come to power in 1653 in the aftermath of the Civil War, were implacably averse to the King James Bible. It represented everything they despised about the monarchy. In the guise of a unifying project the translation had proved to be little more than a tool to diminish the influence of the Puritans. It was not until 1660, when Cromwell was dead and the throne restored in the person of Charles II, that the time grew ripe for the King James Bible to capture the stage in all its majestic, Protestant, English glory.

Notes

22  McNamara, 2010.

23  Moore, 1927. p. 176.

24  An excellent account of the discovery of the Genizah, and of the roles of Mrs Lewis and Mrs Smith in its discovery, is in Soskice, 2009.

25  I think it preferable to follow Sokoloff and translate Memra in this way, rather than adopting McNamara’s translation of Memra as Word, which of course predetermines the point he is trying to make. Michael Sokoloff, A Dictionary of Jewish Palestinian Aramaic, Bar Ilan University Press, Ramat Gan, 1990.

26  Targum Pseudo-Jonathan to Genesis 2,8.

27  For a discussion of Logos in a targumic context, with reference to Memra, see McNamara, 2010.

28  (Flesher, 2011). The Targum in question is Pseudo-Jonathan, an interesting but relatively unimportant Targum in the grand scale of things, which was unknown until the thirteenth century and which happens to have a high profile because a medieval printer decided to include in it his compendium of Bible commentaries. It is still printed in what are known as ‘rabbinic bibles’ (mikraot gedolot) today.

By Harry Freedman in "The Murderous History of Bible Translations",  Bloomsbury Press, London, UK, 2016, excerpts chapter 2. Adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.

IS IT TRUE? ABOUT FOOD AND DRINK

$
0
0

Tomato

A tomato is a vegetable.

It certainly is used that way. But the definition of a fruit is: ‘the ripened ovary of a flowering plant containing one or more seeds’. Therefore a tomato is formally classified as a fruit. Somewhat unwillingly, we must therefore also include as fruits: peas, beans, cucumbers, capsicums and pumpkins, which fulfil the same conditions.

Besides those mentioned, and others more recognised as fruits, all the other parts of edible plants are vegetables: leaves (lettuce and cabbage), buds (cauliflower and broccoli), stems (rhubarb and celery), roots and tubers (beetroot, carrots and potatoes).

But apart from scientific definitions, a ‘housewife’s slogan’ is quite an effective way of allocating fruits and vegetables in the practical sense:

If it goes well with ice cream—it’s a fruit.
If it’s good served with gravy—it’s a vegetable.

Apple pie

‘As American as apple pie.’

Fondness for apple pies originated in Britain, where apples and their pies had been popular for several hundred years before any apples grew in America. In 1341 Chaucer gives a recipe for this attractive dish (intriguingly calling the pastry case a ‘cofyn’—which was the usual terminology of the time). And a cookbook believed to have been compiled c.1390 by the master cook to King Richard II has instructions for making the classic apple pie. (Sir Edward Stafford later presented the book to Queen Elizabeth I.)

Apples suitable for pies didn’t reach America until the seventeenth century, and another century went by before there were enough apples for commercial trade.

Commenting on the international success of Julie Andrews, a British guest on an American TV talk show once caused a frisson by describing her being ‘as English as apple pie...’.

Mrs Beeton

‘First catch your hare’ was advice from Mrs Beeton.

She didn’t say it, or write it. There is no evidence that Mrs Beeton, Hannah Glasse, or any other famous cook, ever spoke or wrote this line, establishing the fairly obvious need to catch the main dish, before starting to prepare the meal.

The term was used by William Makepeace Thackeray in Rose and Ring (1855), but in a context not connected with cooking: rebel troops determined on usurping a Prince, track him to a tavern and demand his sword since he is the focal Royal. The Prince announces: ‘First catch your hare. Ha!’

But whether it came earlier from anywhere else besides Thackeray is obscure to invisibility.

Instant coffee

Instant coffee was invented in Chicago in 1901.

Perhaps they didn’t notice that instant coffee had already been on sale for 11 years in the New Zealand city of Invercargill. Invented there by David Strang (patent no.3518 in 1890), and described as ‘soluble coffee powder—made instantly with boiling water—it can be made in a breakfast cup’.

Coffee mills in New Zealand had been established in Invercargill since 1872, and David Strang owned the Coffee and Spice Works factory, which produced spices, jellies, essences and coffee. Besides instant coffee, David Strang also pioneered another fashion: he mixed coffee with chocolate—later known as mocha.

‘Shaken, not stirred’

James Bond had a special cocktail.

Only sometimes. Bond is depicted as being partial to a straightforward martini—either vodka or gin, famously ‘shaken, not stirred’ ( Dr No, 1958). But true, there was a special cocktail invented by Bond in Casino Royale (1953): the ‘Vesper’ cocktail, named after the character Vesper Lynd.

Somewhat eccentrically, the ‘Vesper’ combines gin (three measures) with vodka (one measure), Kina Lillet (half a measure) and a shred of lemon peel ... and preferably the vodka used has been made from grain rather than potatoes. Ideally, the resultant mix was to be served in a deep champagne goblet.

The difficulty in re-creating an exact Bond ‘Vesper’ cocktail could be the availability of Kina Lillet. This is a blend of Bordeaux wines plus liqueurs derived from peels of Spanish and Moroccan sweet oranges, and the peels of bitter green oranges from Haiti, plus a derivative of Chinchona bark (containing quinine) from Peru. It is categorised as an ‘aperitif’, but clients less internationally mobile than Bond might have to use vermouth instead.

In recent years the Kina has been dropped from the name, and the mix is now known just as ‘Lillet Blanc’ – described by its makers as ‘fresher, fruitier and less bitter’.

A martini being shaken not stirred long pre-dates Bond. It is an option mentioned in the Bartender’s Manual by Harry Johnson (1882), and was then known as a ‘Bradford’ martini.

Sandwiches

Sandwiches were invented by the Earl of Sandwich.

They weren’t. The custom of putting a ‘filling’ between two firm edible slices had been in use for hundreds of years—as far back as the Jewish ceremony on the Eve of Passover when a mixture of apples and herbs is placed between two matzohs. Also, for several centuries cooked meats were placed on thick slices of bread (called ‘trenchers’) which soaked up the juices, and were then either eaten or thrown to the dogs. Placing another piece of bread on top of the food became a common practice in the sixteenth century, and was known simply as ‘bread-and-meat’ or ‘bread-and-cheese.’ Shakespeare mentions this.

Larousse Gastronomique (1961 edition) explains that:

"Since the most faraway time it has been the custom in the French countryside to give workers in the fields meat for meals enclosed between two pieces of wholemeal or black bread. Moreover, in all the south-west districts it was customary to provide people setting out on a journey with slices of meat, mostly pork or veal cooked in the pot, enclosed, sprinkled with their succulent juices, between two pieces of bread."

Sandwiches made with sardines, tunny fish, anchovies, sliced chicken and even with flat omelettes were known in France well before the word, coming from England, had entered into French culinary terminology.

Enter Lord John Montagu, Earl of Sandwich. He joined the Admiralty in 1746 and became First Lord in 1748. He was also Secretary of State, former Postmaster General, sometime ambassador to Madrid, and with the rank of Colonel in the army (later appointed to General, though not in active service). He was a great supporter of Captain James Cook, and approved Admiralty funds for Cook to explore the Pacific. Cook named the Sandwich Islands after him (now Hawaii) and Montagu Island off Australia.

Lord Sandwich was very busy.

In 1765 a man called Pierre Jean Grosley wrote a travel book about London. In it he mentions an unnamed Minister of State who gambled with such absorption that ‘he had no sustenance but a bit of beef between two slices of toasted bread, which he eat without ever quitting the game’. No name is mentioned, but centuries of over-confident conjecture have attached the description to Lord Sandwich—without the slightest evidence.

Lord Sandwich’s later biographer, N.A.M. Rodger, explains that because of Lord Sandwich’s demanding duties at the Admiralty, during the long hours he spent there both day and evening, meat-between-slices-of-bread was brought to the Earl, but at his work desk, not at gambling tables. (He particularly liked salt-corned beef.) That this became his recognised practice seems to have caused colleagues to order ‘the same as Sandwich’. Hence the growth of the Earl’s title being associated with the convenience snack—at least in the English language.

His penchant for portable bread-and-filling (and colleagues ordering ‘the same as Sandwich’) filtered through to other government officers and into general usage when it first appeared in print. Edward Gibbons wrote in 1762 of seeing more than 20 of the ‘noblest and wealthiest’ in a coffee bar ‘supping on a bit of cold meat, or a Sandwich’. Just over a decade later, the word first appeared in an English cookbook (1773).

Larousse Gastronomique, the bastion of French culinary nomenclature, refers to ‘sandwich’ as ‘a relatively recent name.’

Forget the nonsense about gambling.

Sandwich is a town in Kent, its locality recognised as far back as King Canute in 1028. There are many graceful and beautiful mediaeval buildings, and surviving gates from the ancient town walls. The name means ‘sandy place on the mouth of a river’.

Avocados

Avocados are named from Spanish lawyers.

It depends who you ask. The original fruit, when first observed by Spanish explorers in the Americas, had a name in the native Nahuatl language: āhuacatl, which means ‘testicle’, an uncompromising reference to the fruit’s shape. From then on, a process called ‘folk etymology’ started to work on the Aztec word, to bring it into common usage without blushing—there was resistance to translating the fruit simply as ‘testicle’. Spanish speakers turned āhuacatl into aguacate, which sounded similar to abogado—the Spanish word for ‘lawyer’ and the French avocat.

English speakers mis-heard these names, and they saw the rough-textured fruit’s shape as being like a pear—thus leading to the corrupted version ‘alligator pear’, although the fruit has no relationship with alligators, pears or lawyers.

The University of California’s Department of Agriculture and Natural Resources advises that the name we are familiar with—avocado—was first published by the distinguished naturalist Sir Hans Sloane in 1696. His catalogue of studied plants included: ‘The Avocado or Alligator Pear-Tree. It grows in gardens and fields throughout Jamaica.’

The name ‘avocado’ which Sir Hans Sloane listed has been in use ever since. Easy to pronounce—and saving shoppers’ sensitivity from having to ask whether the new season’s testicles are in yet.

Popeye and spinach

Popeye ate spinach because its iron made him strong.

It wasn’t the iron. Popeye was created in 1929 by Elzie Segar. The rambunctious cartoon sailor had a spirited faith in spinach—his muscles could double in size after a meal of the crinkly green stuff. But why?

A folk-belief had grown that spinach contained large quantities of iron—which gave Popeye his strength. But criminologist Dr Mike Sutton of Nottingham Trent University points out that Popeye’s creator, Elzie Segar, was not focusing on spinach because of its iron— but because of its Vitamin A. The first time Popeye mentions it is when he explains to Olive in a 1932 cartoon: ‘Spinach is full of Vitamin A—an’ thah’s what makes hooman strong an’ helty...’ In dozens of cartoons studied, Dr Sutton found that when Popeye slugged down spinach, it was Vitamin A keeping him ‘helty’.

Among the many outings Popeye had in various media, were radio series in 1935, 1936 and 1937. The radio series was sponsored by breakfast cereal Wheatena, promoting how healthy it was. And ironically—you should pardon the pun—no references to spinach were allowed in the scripts.

Sirloin

Sirloin steak is so named because a king who enjoyed it named it ‘Sir Loin’.

Not at all. The word ‘sirloin’ describing a particular part of steak has been in English use since the 1400s. It is not derived from a king giving a knighthood, but from the French (as many English food words are: poultry, mutton, beef, pork, bully beef, sausage, venison, filet). In this case, old French sur longe meaning ‘over the loin’, which developed into sur loigne ... and, eventually, ‘sirloin’.

Sake

Sake is a rice wine.

It’s not made from the juice of fruits, flowers or berries, so it can’t (formally) be called a wine.

The alcohol in sake comes from sugars which have been converted from the starch in rice. This fact—that it originates from grains—by definition makes it a beer ( Encyclopedia Britannica defines sake as ‘a rice beer’). Whisky is also derived from grain, but is distilled—which beer isn’t. Sake resembles wine more closely than it does beer, so custom and usage tends to describe it as ‘rice wine’ although its alcohol content tends to be higher. Beer’s alcohol can be up to 9 per cent, some wines can reach 16 per cent, but sake can get as high as 18 per cent alcohol (the level is sometimes deliberately reduced).

Brazil nuts

Brazil nuts must come from Brazil.

Some do, but most come from Bolivia. And strictly speaking they’re not nuts. Botanically, Brazil ‘nuts’ are classified as ‘seeds’. Beside Brazil nuts being seeds, other ‘botanically classified seeds’ are: peanuts, almonds, pistachios, cashews, macadamia, pine nuts and coconuts(!). Real nuts include walnuts, chestnuts and hazelnuts.

Brown eggs

Brown eggs are more nutritious than white eggs.

This is a nonsense. The colour of a hen’s eggs can sometimes be predicted by the colour of her earlobes(!). In general, the darker the earlobes, the darker the eggs. Red, brown or black earlobes usually result in brown eggs, and hens with white earlobes usually provide white eggs. This is not a hard-and-fast rule; there are many exceptions. But it doesn’t matter, because the nutritional value of the eggs, whether brown or white, is almost identical.

Perhaps there is some lingering earlier awareness of being told brown bread is healthier than white. But eggs aren’t the same as bread. Both brown and white eggs contain approximately 70 calories per medium-sized egg, 210 milligrams of cholesterol, 12 grams of protein and up to 7 grams of fat.
Both white and brown eggs are rich in B vitamins and in minerals such as phosphorus and choline.
So there is no appreciable difference between eggs whose shell is brown or white, either in nutrition or taste. Cook one of each and serve to someone blindfolded. They won’t know which is which.

Steak tartare

Steak tartare was invented by the Tartars, while galloping their horses.

‘Steak tartare’ is finely chopped or minced raw beef, mixed with either capers, chopped onions or shallots, salt, pepper, and sometimes Worcestershire sauce, and often served topped with a raw egg.

There is wide belief—now dismissed as a myth—that the name arose from a practice of Tartar warriors from the Volga region of Russia during the thirteenth century: habitually they would place slices of steak under their horses’ saddles, so that at the end of a day’s hard riding the steak would be tenderised and ready to eat.

The Cambridge Mediaeval History points to the fragment of fact behind the myth: namely, that sometimes Tartars were observed placing a small piece of meat under a saddle—not to eat, but where a horse had developed a sore, as it was believed that the fresh meat would help to heal it. The History then points out that after a day’s riding ‘this meat, impregnated with the sweat of the horse and reeking intolerably, is absolutely uneatable’. (A much later variation on the myth—perhaps in a mood of American nationalism—attributed the meat-under-the-saddle story as being the province of early American cowboys.) So there is no place in the cuisine history of Tartary for ‘steak tartar’ (although in some later places and centuries, horse-meat has quite customarily been used as the meat therein).

But the development of what is known as ‘sauce tartare’ does have a connection, in that the Tartars are perceived (and chronicled) as a rough and tough race. So sometime during the early 1800s some unknown person developed a piquant if somewhat ‘rough’ sauce, which, theory has it, was named after the Tartars—because they, too, were rough!

‘Tartare sauce’ is a basic mayonnaise, mixed with (choose from): mustard; chives; chopped gherkins; tarragon; cucumber; parsley; vinegar; onion; chopped olives; lemon juice; horseradish; chopped boiled eggs. There is no single, finite recipe.

This sauce began to accompany the aforementioned serving of raw minced steak, known thereby as ‘steak à la tartare’. Over time, the name of the additional sauce gravitated onto the meat itself, which became known as ‘steak tartare’ (sometimes ‘tatare’ or ‘tartar’).

Humble pie

To eat humble pie means to ‘lower yourself—to be humble and apologise’.

The term ‘humble pie’ arose by mistake, and its origin has nothing to do with apologising.

In past centuries, there was—and still is—a perceived difference between eating the flesh of animals as opposed to eating the insides of animals. It wasn’t uncommon for the grandees, the nobility, to be served venison, beef, mutton or pork, while the simple folk—the household servants and the huntsmen who’d brought home the animals—had to make do with the animals’ discarded insides. And that which we know by the unattractive word ‘offal’ in earlier times was known as ‘numbles’. Numbles were the kidneys, liver, heart, gizzard, etc., of animals—deer, sheep, pigs, and cattle—and were frequently made into a pie called a ‘numble pie’.

By the 1400s the word ‘numbles’ had undergone a slight change and dropped its ‘n’, becoming ‘umble’. But still the idea of eating offal—numbles—was somehow associated with people in a position of inferiority, and by the time ‘numble’ became ‘umble’ there began a mistaken association with the word ‘humble’—meaning unpretentious and conscious of one’s lowly position. There is no actual relationship between the word ‘umbles’ for offal and the word ‘humble’ for behaving apologetically: the internal organs—‘umbles’—are derived from the Latin lumbellus meaning ‘a small amount of meat’, and ‘humble’ comes from the Latin humilis meaning ‘lowly’.

And as time went by, the perception of eating internal organs underwent a change, so that steak-and-kidney, or lamb’s fry and bacon were not necessarily associated with people of lowly rank. But the confusion remained between (a) a pie made of ‘umbles’ and (b) a person required to get off their high horse ... they are described as ‘eating humble pie’.

Welsh rabbit

‘Welsh rabbit’ should correctly be called ‘Welsh rarebit’.

No, it shouldn’t. The delicious savoury dish made of melted (and sometimes grilled) cheese mixed variously with ale/mustard/paprika/Worcestershire sauce, and served on crisp toast, since at least the 1700s has been known by such various names as ‘English rabbit’, ‘Irish rabbit’, ‘Scotch rabbit’ ... and ‘Welsh rabbit’. The Welsh appellation has survived better than the others. But in all cases the original recipes style the dish as ‘rabbit’.

It is possible that the name might have arisen as a centuries-old ironic acknowledgment that people at that time not well enough off to afford butcher’s meat, resorted to rabbits—if available. If not, the cheese became the protein du jour.

But even so, ‘Welsh rabbit’ comes into the perfectly respectable company of Bombay duck (which isn’t duck), mock turtle (which isn’t turtle), mock lobster (no lobster was damaged for this), and toad-in-the-hole (not necessary to be squeamish: there’s no toad involved).

The famous cookbook of Hannah Glasse (1747) gives recipes for English, Scotch and Welsh rabbit. And The British Housewife by Martha Bradley (1755) gives Mrs Bradley’s directions for Welsh rabbit. Neither lady mentions ‘rarebit’.

It is possible that—any attempt at patronising aside—food mavens, including Escoffier, refer to the dish as ‘rarebit’ in order to clarify that it is vegetarian and contains no meat. But ‘rabbit’ is correct.

Since the early recipes from the eighteenth century, a development has occurred: Welsh rabbit served with a poached egg on top is called a ‘Welsh buck rabbit’.

Shrimp on the barbie

Australians like to have ‘another shrimp on the barbie’.

A 1984 TV commercial featured actor Paul Hogan detailing with casual charm the attractions of Australia, on behalf of the Australian Tourism Bureau. His memorable final line was: ‘I’ll slip another shrimp on the barbie for ya.’ But in fact Australians do not put shrimps on a barbie. The word ‘shrimp’ is never used in that country: when a shrimp or shrimps cross the Australian cuisine horizon they are always referred to as ‘prawns’.

There is no scientific definition which differentiates between a ‘shrimp’ and a ‘prawn’. The two words refer to exactly the same creature (Crustacea: Decapoda), but in different places.

In Australia the word ‘prawn’ is commonly used to describe what in America is called ‘shrimp’. There is an informal concept that a shrimp is small and a prawn is bigger, but this is unsubstantiated, because both creatures can reach substantial size. At that point they are then referred to as ‘king prawns’ or ‘jumbo shrimp’—depending where you are.

Australians do not need to have their own country advertised to them. Paul Hogan’s catch-line about slipping a shrimp on the barbie was a deliberate use of the non-Australian word, because the commercial was aimed at an American market, which might have been confused at hearing the word ‘prawn’.

Australians commenting on the commercial and its catchphrase, tend to observe that they don’t often cook prawns on a barbecue anyway—more likely ‘snags’ (sausages). But that might also have cause confusion to Americans, who tend to call sausages ‘links’.

Chutney and relish

Chutneys are made with fruit, and relish with vegetables.

Actually, they’re basically the same.

‘Relish’ was originally a French word, used by the English since 1530 to describe ‘a special enjoyment’—something available occasionally as a treat, even as nowadays you can ‘relish’ swimming in summer, or reading an enjoyable book, or a particular kind of movie. By the late 1600s, ‘relish’ had also come to mean something special and tasty added to the dinner table ... again, a little treat.

When the British started travelling to India a lot, they brought back spicy mixtures in jars from East India known by the Hindi word chatni. This was basically chopped-up fruits and vegetables treated with acids, sour herbs and hot flavourings. There were many variations in the ingredients: papayas, dates, raisins, mangoes, coconut, tomatoes, garlic, tamarind and onions. Plus vinegar, lemon juice, sugar, salt, coriander, mint and chillies.

Gradually, the new-fangled chatnis became the attractive thing added to the dinner table. And because they were something special, they qualified as a ‘relish’ to the meal—a little treat. Eventually the two words became interchangeable.

Some people insist that they are separate condiments: chutneys should be made with a fruit as the main ingredient (for example, mango chutney), and relishes are made with vegetables (for example, cucumber relish). But food experts concede that there really isn’t a difference.

‘Eat, drink and be merry’

The Bible tells us to ‘Eat, drink and be merry for tomorrow we die’.

The Bible doesn’t say that. It’s a combination of two separate lines in different parts of the Bible: ‘Then I commended mirth, because a man hath no better thing under the sun, than to eat, and to drink, and to be merry’ (Ecclesiastes 8:15) and ‘Let us eat and drink; for tomorrow we shall die’ (Isaiah 22:13). Neither line combines ‘be merry’ with ‘tomorrow we die’. But a shortcut between the two, by custom and usage, has become a popular expression with a supposed ‘biblical’ origin—although it is actually a misquote.

Oysters 

Do not eat oysters in a month with no ‘r’.

This piece of ‘advice’ has a rather vague premise—and loses its point if you stop to think ‘Which hemisphere does this apply to?’

The concept was first formulated by William Butler in 1599. His Dyet’s Dry Dinner proclaims:

It is unseasonable and unwholesome in all months that have not an R in their name to eat an oyster.

On close examination this appears to have no relevance to health or safety, but rather more with flavour and conservation. Northern Hemisphere oysters spawn during the warm months (May, June, July, August), and their texture and flavour is not as satisfying during this period. Also, leaving them alone during warm (and reproductive) months helps sustain the future oyster population.

But sophisticated techniques of farming and refrigeration have come a long way to overcome these matters, so in general farmed oysters worldwide can be available and eaten in all months of the year, although the pernickety prefer the supposed superior qualities of oysters ‘from the wild’.

Therefore, Northern Hemisphere epicures who relish oysters brought in from the wild may still prefer to avoid them in months without an ‘r’. But this does not apply in the Southern Hemisphere, where wild oysters spawn in the warm months—September, October, November, December—which have an ‘r’; so conversely are best eaten in the winter months, which do not have an ‘r’ (May, June, July, August).

Gin

The name ‘gin’ comes from its origin in Geneva.

Gin in its modern form has a long and complex history—none of it involving Geneva.

For centuries, many kinds of herbal infusions attempted to deal with various illnesses, using for example, sage, pennyroyal, willow bark, rosemary, lavender, valerian, ginko, dandelion, fennel, honeysuckle, ginger ... and juniper berries.

Franciscus Sylvius, a German-born medical scientist, became famous in the Netherlands as a professor of medicine, promoting ground-breaking research into the circulation of the blood, and the relationship between chemistry and digestion. And he is credited with creating, in 1650, a combination of grain alcohol with juniper berries (as a natural diuretic) for the treatment of gastric and kidney disorders. The mix was called Jenever, Dutch for ‘juniper’, from which the English word ‘gin’ is derived.

Juniper-flavoured alcohol became popular in the Netherlands, and was soon introduced to England by military men returning there from the Continent. When the Dutch King William of Orange became King of England, Scotland and Ireland in 1689, gin became extremely popular, and still is. But it is named after juniper berries—not Geneva.

Carrots: raw or cooked?

Carrots eaten raw are better for you than cooked.

This is not necessarily correct. Carrots contain the desirable nutrient beta-carotene, but it is locked inside cells with high-fibre walls. When eaten in the raw state, the digestive system cannot deal with the high-fibre walls, and those cells pass through the body without releasing their nutrients into the system. But when cooked, the fibre is sufficiently broken down to make the beta-carotene readily available, and that nutrient becomes available to the body’s system.

Jerusalem artichokes

Jerusalem artichokes must have originated in Israel.

Alas no, they originated in North America, and have no connection with Israel or Jerusalem—and they aren’t even artichokes.

Jerusalem artichokes can be found from eastern Canada down to Florida and Texas. They are a species of sunflower, with a tuber which is used as a vegetable. Native American Indians called the plant ‘sun root’, and the incoming pilgrims from England joined them in using the tubers as food. Other names—‘sunchoke’, ‘earth apple’—also came into use.

The current name has a haphazard history. Early settlers to America from Italy, noticing the resemblance of the sunchoke’s flowers to the golden sunflower called it by the sunflower’s Italian name— girasole (‘turning towards the sun’). Then, whilst in America, French explorer Samuel de Champlain thought that the sunchoke tubers tasted like artichokes, and sent them to France and Italy—where again they were perceived as a sunflower. From there, English speakers heard girasole as ‘Jerusalem’, and de Champlain’s assessment of artichoke flavour stuck, hence Jerusalem-plus-artichoke.

Buffalo wings

Buffalo wings must be chicken wings which are big!

No, it’s not the beast taking part in the title—it’s the city. The recipe for these tasty snacks originated in the city of Buffalo in the state of New York. They are chicken wings which have been deep-fried, drained, then coated with a spicy sauce of melted butter containing vinegar and cayenne pepper. They are served still hot, with a cheese dressing and celery sticks.

Pudding

Pudding is the sweet dish served at the end of a meal.

Not always. The English word ‘pudding’ is descended from ancient Continental words referring to things ‘stumpy, thick or swollen’. It came to be associated with foods steamed or boiled inside some sort of bag or tube. Originally the term was applied only to savoury dishes, but has gradually moved towards dishes with sugar, fruit, rice and cream—particularly those which are boiled, baked or steamed, like Christmas pudding.

But the older terminology remains for some of the savoury dishes still to be found under their old names: Yorkshire pudding, black pudding (aka blood sausage), pease pudding and steak-and-kidney pudding.

Hot cross buns

Hot cross buns commemorate the death of Jesus.

They do now, but in early centuries they represented other factors.

Many centuries before Jesus was born, buns in several civilisations were baked and marked with a cross, often believed to be associated with the moon. Some cultures held the moon as an influencing force (some still do—Christians commemorate Easter on a date dictated by the moon), so scholars believe that buns in ancient times were marked with a cross-shape on top, divided into four, representing the phases of the moon. And celebrations in early spring for the goddess Eastre (she whose name became the inspiration for the word ‘Easter’) coincided with a recognition of the contribution bullocks and oxen provided to the building of roads, dwellings and places of worship. On a special day to honour the beasts (which were also associated with the moon, who was seen to ride on the back of one), buns were baked with two pairs of bullock or oxen horns on top—one pair pointing up, the other, down—thus looking like a cross.

Whatever the ancient historic associations and reasons for shaping buns’ tops into four, the later rise of Christianity saw the gradual taking over of long-existing festivals and symbols, and adapting them into the new religion. So the symbolic strength of oxen and the four phases of the moon were gradually assimilated into a new name ‘hot cross buns’, which, in spite of their new name, are seldom hot...

Kiwifruit

Kiwifruit are native to New Zealand.

They are in fact native to China. In 1904 a New Zealand school teacher noticed the plants when visiting the Yangtze Valley. They were known in China by several colloquial names including yang-tao (‘monkey peach’). The teacher took seeds back to New Zealand, and the plants flourished there, and New Zealanders called their fruit ‘Chinese gooseberries’. Commercial production expanded, but a difficulty arose when exporting was contemplated. Although known in New Zealand as ‘Chinese gooseberries’ the fruit were not gooseberries, which would confuse potential international markets (where the fruit was virtually unknown). A suggestion of ‘melon-ettes’ was discarded, because it transpired that melons had a high import tax in some countries. So in 1959 the name ‘kiwifruit’ was invented, and rapidly came into universal use.

A kiwi is an iconic native bird in New Zealand. But internationally the word ‘kiwi’ has drifted into use as a single-word identification for the New Zealand dollar, kiwifruit, the bird, or any New Zealand person. Clarification is sometimes necessary, especially if a New Zealander sees an American dessert menu offering ‘ice cream and kiwis’.

Betty Crocker

Betty Crocker was a well-known American expert on home cooking.

Alas, there was no Betty Crocker. She never existed. The image of a friendly, knowledgeable housewife was imaginary, created by the Washburn Crosby Company in Minneapolis in 1921, and ‘she’ was named after a retired director, William Crocker. The company’s women employees all provided a signature and the ‘friendliest’ one was chosen to finish off the replies to the letters received by the company, asking for baking advice.

When ‘Betty’ advanced to radio in 1924 she was voiced by 13 different actresses, and somehow this invisible kitchen genius also managed to write cookbooks.

In 1936 her first ‘portrait’ appeared, painted to look like an attractive ‘composite’ woman of no particular age. By 1949 ‘she’ was on television, in the person of actress Adelaide Hawley Cumming, who played her for several years, and remained the ‘living trademark’ until 1964.

The painted ‘portrait’ of Betty often appeared in advertising, and was updated seven times—subtly acknowledging differing developments in fashion and kitchen activity, although growing mysteriously younger as the decades progressed.

A change in the marketing took place in 2006, and images of Betty became fewer, although the name remains as an icon of cooking knowledge.

Brunch

Brunch’ is a ‘lifestyle concept’ originating among upmarket Americans.

The word ‘brunch’ conjures an ‘urban lifestyle’ image of carefree Californians or glossy New York cafés, but both the word and what it describes, are British.

As far back as 1896, Punch reported that the word ‘brunch’ had been introduced the year before by British writer Guy Beringer:

"By eliminating the need to get up early on Sunday, brunch would make life brighter for Saturday-night carousers. It would promote human happiness in other ways as well. Brunch is cheerful, sociable and inciting [sic]".

So: a combined breakfast and lunch.

An afternoon version has evolved, characterised by culinary and alcoholic freedom, known as ‘drunch’.

Restaurateur

A person who owns a restaurant is a ‘restauranteur’.

There’s no ‘n’: the correct word is ‘restaurateur’. The English word ‘restaurant’ comes from the French ‘restaurer’—to restore, including restoring one’s energy by eating. In French, ‘ant’ is equivalent to English ‘ing’, so ‘restaurant’ can be seen to mean ‘a place of restoring’. The Latin ending ‘ator’ identifies that someone is acting out what the previous part of the word has specified, such as ‘demonstrator’, ‘innovator’, ‘spectator’. Transferring into French, ‘ator’ becomes ‘ateur.’ So the person ‘who is working at providing sustenance’ is a ‘restaurateur’—no ‘n’.

A chicken in every pot

President Herbert Hoover promised American voters ‘a chicken in every pot’.

He didn’t. One of his campaigners published that ‘if Hoover were elected’ there would be a chicken in every pot. However, Hoover never said the ‘promise’, although he is often misquoted as having done so.

There have also been muddled references to other US Presidents ‘creating’ the line. For example, FDR referred to it but never claimed to have created it, and JFK made a joking reference to it in 1960 when visiting Tennessee, where he implied that it hadn’t happened.

However, the creator and only begetter of the original line was King Henry IV of France in 1589. A serious man, he supported agricultural development, arranged road-building, created more trade opportunities and encouraged prosperity for all citizens. His concern for the welfare of the general population helped him become one of France’s most popular Kings. Historians report that his egalitarian attitude was summed up in his pronouncement in support of the working classes:

"Je veux qu’il n’y ait si pauvre paysan en mon royaume qu’il n’ait tous les dimanches sa poule au pot."

"I want that no peasant in my realm should be so poor that he not have a hen in his pot every Sunday."

King Henry’s egalitarian wish became widely quoted beyond France, and in later centuries was appropriated by politicians elsewhere.

Pineapples

Pineapples are native to Hawaii.

Pineapples are native to South America. They are known in many places as anana (which means ‘delicious’ in the area the fruit comes from). The first one believed to be raised in England was presented to King Charles II in 1661 (and he had his portrait painted with it).

But most people didn’t realise that they grow down on the ground, not up in trees. In those times, the term ‘pine-apple’ was the generally used term to refer to what we now call ‘pine cones’. Because this new fruit looked vaguely similar to a big cone on a pine tree, they too were called ‘pine-apples’, and it helped that their flesh was firm and sweet, like an apple. Gradually, the term ‘pineapple’ moved onto the fruit permanently, and edged out its previous connection with pine trees, whose ‘nuts’ from 1669 onwards took on a new name: pine cone.

By Max Cryer in "Is It True?: : The Facts Behind The Things We Have Been Told" Exisle Publishing, Auckland, New Zealand, 2014,excerpts. Adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.

COMO SE FAZ UMA ESTRELA SERTANEJA

$
0
0

O GÊNERO MUSICAL MAIS POPULAR DO BRASIL CONSAGRA ARTISTAS COMO LUAN SANTANA. MARÍLIA MENDONÇA E JORGE & MATEUS. MAS O CAMINHO PARA CRIAR CADA UM DESSES SUCESSOS É LONGO E CARO. E NEM TODOS CHEGAM LÁ: NOS BASTIDORES DO MERCADO MUSICAL. HÁ UMA FEROZ COMPETIÇÃO DARWINISTA.

No dia 26 de agosto, Gurizinho aproveitou o feriado em Campo Grande (era aniversário da cidade) para fazer uma viagem sentimental. Passava das 4 da tarde quando ele encheu uma van com amigos, parentes e seguranças - que se revezavam no jogo de caça a pokémons e no preparo de tereré, mate gelado típico da região- para fazer o trajeto de 46 quilômetros até Jaraguari, cidade que testemunhou seus primeiros passos na carreira artística.

Logo na chegada, Gurizinho parou, nostálgico, em frente à casa da avó materna, já morta: foi naquela calçada que ele, com o violão, tocou suas primeiras modas sertanejas, amealhando uns trocados de quem passava pela rua. Gurizinho depois foi à praça principal, onde cumprimentou um tio.

Em seguida, rumou para a sede da Associação dos Bancários da cidade, palco da gravação de seu primeiro disco (caseiro). Ali, foi reconhecido por uma pequena fã, que pediu para tirar uma foto ao lado do ídolo. "Ele é mais bonito pessoalmente", disse ela ao pai, depois de ter seu pedido atendido. Quando entrou num dos bares da cidade, Gurizinho teve uma surpresa: lá trombou com Klebinho, que estava tocando sucessos sertanejos em sua viola. Também cantor e compositor, Klebinho teve três composições gravadas no primeiro disco de Gurizinho, cujo lançamento ficou restrito a Mato Grosso do Sul. Foi um momento de emoção autêntica: Klebinho chorou ao rever o amigo que se tornou astro pop.

Sua trajetória foi bem diferente: ele ainda tenta encontrar seu lugar na grande peneira que se tornou o showbiz sertanejo. Gurizinho juntou-se ao velho amigo, atraindo uma multidão que se acotovelou para ver, fotografar e filmar o breve show da dupla naquele ambiente decorado com peças de mortadela e garrafas de cerveja.

Hoje, ninguém chama Gurizinho pelo apelido da juventude. Ele faz sucesso com o nome de batismo, Luan Santana.

Segundo dados da Som Livre, a gravadora responsável por seus lançamentos, o cantor vendeu mais de 3 milhões de discos e DVDs em oito anos de carreira, somando os mercados físico e digital. Um número que deverá aumentar consideravelmente com seu novo álbum,1977, que chegou às lojas em novembro. No álbum, ele faz dueto com cantoras do universo sertanejo e pop, como Marília Mendonça, Sandy, Ivete Sangalo, Ana Carolina e Anitta.

Não satisfeito, emprestou seu carisma a terceiros: Bruninho & Davi têm atingido uma boa audiência com E Essa Boca Aí?, canção que o ex-Gurizinho canta ao lado da dupla de Campo Grande.

Em Jaraguari, Santana e Klebinho interpretaram alguns sucessos do universo caipira, até que o cantor de Meteoro da Paixão entrou novamente na van para evitar o tumulto que se formava. No caminho de volta para a capital, Santana confessou a VEJA que por pouco não teve o mesmo destino de Klebinho: balançou quando a terceira música em que apostava para estourar nas paradas foi gravada por artistas mais conhecidos, o que minava suas chances de sucesso. "Quando minha terceira canção de trabalho foi gravada por João Bosco & Vinícius, pensei em desistir de tudo e fazer faculdade de biologia", disse.

No sertanejo, opera uma cruenta seleção darwinista, que abre um abismo entre as estrelas que ganham troféus de melhores do ano das mãos de Faustão e os anônimos que tocam violão em bares do interior. Talento e carisma são fundamentais, mas não bastam: o caminho do sucesso é determinado também por quem descobre um novo artista, pelo modo como esse iniciante é trabalhado por empresários, produtores, assessores - e pelo cálculo com que planeja cada passo da carreira.

Esta reportagem percorreu seis cidades em Mato Grosso, Mato Grosso do Sul e Goiás para radiografar os quatro passos capazes de transformar os gurizinhos da vida em estrelas sertanejas como Luan Santana.

PRIMEIRO PASSO: A DESCOBERTA

Empresários e contratantes de shows costumam minimizar a importância do olheiro. Mas existe, sim, uma rede de informantes que alerta esses empreendedores do ramo sobre um nome em ascensão. Foi o que aconteceu com Santana. Em 2008, ele era razoavelmente conhecido em Mato Grosso do Sul e parte do Paraná, e olheiros falaram dele para Sorocaba, cantor de sucesso da dupla Fernando & Sorocaba, além de hábil empresário sertanejo. O primeiro encontro entre Luan e Sorocaba se deu em Brusque, Santa Catarina.

Luan abriu a apresentação de Fernando & Sorocaba na cidade. Depois, fez um show particular para o cantor. O potencial do jovem artista que cantava solo -e não em dupla, como é praxe no sertanejo- atiçou o instinto capitalista de Sorocaba. Ele logo tratou de amarrar uma parceria com a dupla que cuidava da carreira do rapaz, Anderson Ricardo e o próprio pai do cantor, Amarildo Santana.

O nome de um astro emergente pode chegar aos grandes empresários através de olheiros acidentais, por assim dizer. Um padeiro foi ao escritório de Marcos Carlesse para alertá-lo sobre uma dupla que tocava nas imediações da padaria onde ele trabalhava. Eram os sertanejos Bruno & Barreto, intérpretes de Farra, Pinga e Foguete (a quarta música mais tocada em 2016, segundo dados do Ecad). Carlesse contratou os cantores e deu uma porcentagem da renda dos caipiras ao padeiro. "Ele até comprou uma casinha com o dinheiro", conta.

A dupla mato-grossense Júlia & Rafaela, também do cast do empresário paranaense, foi descoberta no YouTube. Carlesse se deslocou de Londrina até Campo Verde (a 140 quilõmetros de Cuiabá) e fez uma oferta ao pai das meninas, que são gêmeas bivitelinas e têm apenas 14 anos. Só foi assistir a uma apresentação ao vivo delas em agosto passado, na cidade de Primavera do Leste, que fica a uma hora de distância da fazenda das sertanejas. Júlia & Rafaela tomaram um banho de loja, fizeram aulas de canto, dança, expressão corporal e violão. Em novembro foi lançado, em formato digital, um EP de quatro canções.

"Nosso primeiro cachê foi de 111 reais. Cantamos numa festa e saímos passando o chapéu", diverte-se Rafaela. "Estamos ansiosas para o início da próxima temporada de shows, em janeiro." A nova rotina fez com que as meninas abandonassem o dia a dia na fazenda dos pais - elas cuidavam das vacas e dos porcos da propriedade. "Passamos a maior parte do nosso tempo em Goiânia. Vamos mudar para a cidade porque ali é que as coisas acontecem e onde os principais compositores estão."

O caso de Júlia & Rafaela foi uma exceção. O empresário raramente confia só no que vê em vídeos on-line: sempre vai a campo para conferir se o futuro contratado tem realmente um futuro.

Outro empresário, Eduardo Maluf, conheceu a dupla Maria Cecília & Rodolfo cantando num boteco em Goiânia, por volta de 2008. "Naquele tempo era incomum deparar com uma mulher em dupla sertaneja. E Maria Cecília tinha talento, voz e carisma de sobra", diz Maluf. Bingo: a ascensão de Maria Cecília puxou a fila das mulheres que hoje brilham no mercado sertanejo.

A história do artista que é descoberto quase por acaso tocando em botecos e então desponta para o sucesso tem apelo romântico. Mas também há casos em que a maturação é lenta, e nos quais o trabalho de bastidor precede o triunfo na frente do palco. Marília Mendonça, hoje o maior nome feminino do se1tanejo, começou exercitando-se só na composição. Criou sucessos para duplas como João Neto & Frederico e para os cantores Cristiano Araújo e Lucas Lucco antes se lançar como artista-solo. Atualmente, Marília é um fenômeno: sua canção Infiel foi a segunda mais tocada nas rádios em 2016 e se tornou o maior hit do chamado sertanejo feminista - que também traz em suas fileiras as duplas Maiara & Maraisa e Simone & Simaria, mais as cantoras Naiara Azevedo e Paula Mattos.

SEGUNDO PASSO: O EMPRESARIO EM CENA

No início deste século, o mercado fonográfico perdeu força por motivos que vão da pirataria à obsolescência do disco como meio essencial para comprar e ouvir música. Coube ao empresário assumir encargos e tarefas que antes eram das gravadoras: despesas de gravação, marketing e imprensa.

As companhias de discos são encaradas como distribuidoras ou parceiras comerciais, e o produto chega a elas praticamente finalizado. A Som Livre é a gravadora que mais soube tirar proveito desse novo arranjo. Como pertence à Globo, tem mais facilidade para colocar sertanejos promissores na trilha sonora de novelas e levar esses artistas aos programas da emissora (embora hoje não tenha mais tanta autonomia para isso).

Em 2008, a Som Livre passou a se associar a empresários de artistas como Hugo Pena & Gabriel, Luan Santana, Michel Teló e Gusttavo Lima, ganhando exclusividade na distribuição de seus lançamentos e dividindo os lucros com shows e afins.

Em meio à quase rapinagem que orienta a disputa por canções de sucesso, o empresário do atual mercado sertanejo é encarregado também de proteger seu afilhado de concorrentes. Quando Sorocaba contratou Luan Santana, ele sabia que o cantor tinha três sucessos em nível regional que foram repassados para a dupla João Bosco & Vinicius. Deu então ao sertanejo iniciante o futuro hit Meteoro da Paixão. Como a música era de sua autoria, proibiu que outro artista tirasse o sucesso do pupilo. "Eu disse a ele: 'Agora você está comigo, estou protegendo você'''

Para fazer um artista decolar, há ainda a estratégia da venda casada: associa-se o iniciante a um nome mais conhecido. Exemplo: Santana foi oferecido como alternativa a quem desejava contratar um show de Fernando & Sorocaba e não o conseguia por problemas de agenda da dupla sertaneja.

Nenhum empresário teve estratégias tão matreiras para lucrar com os sertanejos quanto Marcus Vinicius Castro, proprietário do escritório de gestão de talentos Audiomix. Ex-DJ, ele se interessou pelo mercado há dez anos, quando comprou alguns shows da dupla César Menotti & Fabiano. Em seguida, Castro se uniu ao amigo Wendell Vieira, empresário da dupla Jorge & Mateus. Os dois estabeleceram um jogo com as duplas: a sociedade de Castro e Vieira permitiu o uso da popularidade de César Menotti & Fabiano como alavanca para os então pouco conhecidos Jorge & Mateus.

Quando os contratados atingiram a notabilidade desejada por Castro, ele aproveitou o sucesso para repetir a tática com um novo nome: Gusttavo Lima passou a abrir as apresentações de Jorge & Mateus.

Castro é famoso pelo estilo agressivo - é uma espécie de atravessador ou equivalente sertanejo do trader, o investidor das bolsas de valores. "Com ele é tudo 'ali in'", diz um empresário amigo, referindo-se ao famoso movimento de pôquer no qual o jogador aposta todas as suas fichas. Em alguns casos, essa ousadia rendeu lances folclóricos. Para consagrar Jorge & Mateus, hoje a dupla número l no país, ele manufaturava discos piratas e saía distribuindo-os para contratantes e para o público.

Em 2012, alugou o Royal Albert Hall, tradicional casa de espetáculos de Londres, para agravação de um DVD dos cantores. Castro não apenas arcou com as despesas da casa como também pagou passagem e hospedagem a radialistas e jornalistas para que testemunhassem a consagração de seus artistas.

Por um tempo, Castro e Sorocaba disputaram acirradamente o mercado de shows no universo sertanejo. Embora Sorocaba ainda seja forte, hoje um terceiro nome se firma como peso-pesado do sertanejo: Wander Oliveira, da Workshow, empresa que detém os passes de Henrique & Juliano, Marília Mendonça e Maiara & Maraisa (essa dupla, aliás, passou debaixo do nariz de Castro, que desdenhou o poder das mulheres no mercado sertanejo).

A briga é ferrenha. Castro possui casas de shows e responde pelo festival Villa Mix, no qual desfilam seus principais artistas. Oliveira se associou à Som Livre na produção do Festeja, o maior festival do gênero, no qual insere as estrelas de seu time. Quando um dos dois empresários descobre que o rival tem show importante em alguma cidade, o outro vai lá para pôr em ação seus melhores combatentes.

Uma batalha desse tipo ocorreu em Campo Grande em agosto, quando Jorge & Mateus concorreram com a versão local do Festeja (Luan Santana, espertamente, apresentou-se no festival e também fez participação no show da dupla). Outras se deram em Cuiabá, Goiânia e na paulista São José do Rio Preto.

Nos bastidores do mundo sertanejo, há o receio de que essa disputa feroz prejudique o setor. "O povo não tem dinheiro para gastar em tanto show", diz um executivo. Outra saída para um artista viabilizar-se é cair nas graças do que no meio sertanejo se chama de investidor - que pode ou não ser alguém do universo da música. Versão caipira do "anjo", empreendedor que banca novas empresas no mercado americano de tecnologia, o investidor financia um nome promissor e extrai seu retorno na forma de participação nos lucros de futuros shows, discos ou contratos de publicidade.

TERCEIRO PASSO: A EMBALAGEM

Todo lançamento sertanejo é fruto de um elaborado estudo de mercado, ao qual se acrescentam cuidados na construção da imagem do artista e na produção de discos e shows. O interesse de Sorocaba por Luan Santana nasceu de sua percepção de uma lacuna no mercado: não existia nenhum artista cantando para o público adolescente. Sorocaba criou um repertório limpinho, que não trazia menção a bebida ou sexo. "Luan fez a criança ligar o rádio, pedir ao pai que a levasse ao show."

Michel Teló surgiu como uma antítese disso: foi embalado para ser o oposto da persona bem comportada de Santana. Para tanto, passou por uma recauchutagem: sujeito casado, sossegado e perto da casa dos 30, Teló foi apresentado ao pais como um agitador de baladas sertanejas. Gusttavo Lima também surgiu como contraponto a Santana: é uma versão com libido do cantor de Meteoro da Paixão.

É no show, o principal produto do artista sertanejo, que o "empacotamento" tem de se mostrar mais eficiente. Leo Ganem, ex-presidente da Som Livre, lembra a primeira apresentação de Gusttavo Lima que presenciou. "Existiam buracos, e uma discrepância entre as músicas animadas e as baladas." O empresário que então respondia pela carreira de Lima pediu o prazo de um mês para ajustar as falhas.

Quando Ganem assistiu novamente ao show, percebeu quanto Lima havia melhorado. Luan Santana incrementa o roteiro de suas apresentações com efeitos especiais- chegou a voar sobre a plateia, com cabos. Ele também passou por uma metamorfose visual obrigatória: teve ajuda de um stylist profissional para tomar um banho de loja, e trocou as roupas e os cortes de cabelo bregas por algo mais próximo de um visual descolado (mas ponha um grão de sal aí: os dreadlocks que exibiu na recente premiação de Faustão exprimem a última palavra em modernidade sertaneja).

Toda essa produção- da imagem, do show, dos discos - custa caro. Estima-se que criar um estouro no mercado sertanejo não fique por menos de 3 milhões de reais. O pacote inclui produção e gravação de disco e DVD, gastos com marketing e divulgação em rádios. Mas, com jeitinho, a conta pode custar bem menos. "Gastei 200 000 do meu bolso para estourar o Luan", diz Sorocaba (os outros 200 000 para bancar o primeiro DVD da carreira do menino, lançado em 2009, saíram de um empréstimo de Amarildo Santana, pai do cantor).

Sorocaba também é personagem de mais um episódio curioso: quatro anos atrás, ele contratou a dupla Marcos & Belutti. O responsável pela dupla tinha gastado alguns milhões de reais, sem resultado expressivo. "Acontecia uma coisa estranha com a gente. Nossas músicas sempre ficavam entre as mais tocadas, mas os shows não iam para a frente", diz Bruno Belucci Pereira.

De acordo com Sorocaba, o problema estava no modo como eles eram gravados: "O Belutti tinha um vozeirão, mas era abafado pelo alto volume dos instrumentos. A gente gravou um disco acústico, e eles se tornaram um dos principais sucessos de 2015".

Em matéria de embalagem, a dupla Bruninho & Davi foi ambiciosa: buscou um pacote de reinvenção completo. Eles contrataram uma empresa de consultoria de imagem para saber como deveriam se lançar no mercado e mixaram seu primeiro álbum no mesmo estúdio nova-iorquino em que foram gravados clássicos de artistas como Jimi Hendrix. Por fim, alugaram o Ginásio do Ibirapuera, em São Paulo, para gravar seu DVD ao vivo. Lotaram o local, com capacidade para mais de lO 000 pessoas- ainda que, naquele mesmo sábado de agosto passado, tivessem a concorrência do jogo em que o Brasil ganhou seu primeiro ouro olímpico no futebol, no Maracanã.

QUARTO PASSO: A CONSOLIDAÇÃO

"Não existe nada pior para um artista do que estourar um sucesso logo de cara", diz o diretor de uma das principais emissoras de rádio dedicadas ao sertanejo. De fato, muitas vezes um artista é tão marcado por um sucesso que pode ficar aprisionado nele.

Aconteceu com Camaro Amarelo, da dupla Munhoz & Mariano. Mesmo Michel Teló, que tinha uma carreira planejada e bem-sucedida, sofre para repetir o êxito de Ai Se Eu Te Pego - ele próprio diz que não vai conseguir isso. Um repertório bem construído se faz na escolha de uma boa música de trabalho nas rádios e canções que dialoguem umas com as outras. Parece óbvio, mas é um equilíbrio difícil.

O empresário atua, mais uma vez, para revitalizar o repertório de seus protegidos. É Wendell Vieira quem define o que Jorge & Mateus cantam. Marcus Vinicius Castro foi buscar Balada Boa e Fui Fiel, sucessos de Gusttavo Lima, nas paradas de sucessos do Nordeste - a mesma fonte de pesquisa de Teófilo Teló, o irmão-empresário de Michel, que ouviu Ai Se Eu Te Pego com um grupo de forró.

Mas Naiara Azevedo, um dos principais nomes do ascendente mercado feminino da música sertaneja, ensina que a obsessão por produzir um novo hit não pode paralisar a veia criativa do artista. Intérprete de 50 Reais, um dos sucessos de 2016, ela agora procura repertório para o próximo disco. "Eu não tenho essa preocupação de encontrar uma nova 50 Reais. De repente, minha nova música de trabalho pode ser uma balada, mas com minha pegada e identidade", diz.

O artista é ambicioso, e o mercado é ganancioso. Para explorar um sucesso até o fim e manter no auge uma carreira sertaneja, cometem-se excessos. Gusttavo Lima foi obrigado a se apresentar momentos depois de saber da morte da irmã. Jorge & Mateus fazem shows demais (a média é de vinte por mês), alternando apresentações inspiradas com performances burocráticas. O mesmo ocorre com Maiara & Maraisa e Marília Mendonça, que realizam mais de trinta shows por mês, muitas vezes com dois ou até três compromissos na mesma noite.

A filosofia "dinheirista" que orienta alguns empresários suga o artista e o deixa desgastado no mercado. Foi também por esgotamento que Marília Mendonça, que é fumante e por vezes gosta de umas doses a mais, foi pega por uma pneumonia em julho passado.

A dupla João Neto & Frederico, que dominou as paradas quatro anos atrás com o modão Lê Lê Lê, preferiu adotar um estilo mais tranquilo: faz no máximo quinze apresentações mensais.

Mas, no geral, a vida na estrada é excruciante: exigem-se mais shows, mais discos, mais promoção em programas de TV e rádio. Alguns artistas se desgastam e novos nomes despontam, como sempre aconteceu em todo gênero do showbiz.

Lição da história: para cada gurizinho que chega ao topo e luta para se manter lá, haverá sempre incontáveis klebinhos sonhando com seu lugar.

Texto de Sérgio Martins publicado na revista "Veja", São Paulo, edição 2511, 4 de janeiro de 2017, excertos pp. 66-75. Adaptado e ilustrado para ser postado por Leopoldo Costa.

THE 'LIBERAL' LIVES OF JESUS

$
0
0

“My hope is,” writes Strauss in concluding the preface of his new Life of Jesus, “that I have written a book as thoroughly well adapted for Germans as Renan’s is for Frenchmen.” He was mistaken ; in spite of its title the book was not a book for the people. It had nothing new to offer, and what it did offer was not in a form calculated to become popular. It is true Strauss, like Renan, was an artist, but he did not write, like an imaginative novelist, with a constant eye to effect. His art was unpretentious, even austere, appealing to the few, not to the many. The people demand a complete and vivid picture. Renan had given them a figure which was theatrical no doubt, but full of life and movement, and they had been grateful to him for it. Strauss could not do that.

Even the arrangement of the work is thoroughly unfortunate. In the first part, which bears the title “ The Life of Jesus,” he attempts to combine into a harmonious portrait such of the historical data as have some claim to be considered historical ; in the second part he traces the “Origin and Growth of the Mythical History of Jesus.” First, therefore, he tears down from the tree the ivy and the rich growth of creepers, laying bare the worn and corroded bark ; then he fastens the faded growths to the stem again, and describes the nature, origin, and characteristics of each distinct species.

How vastly different, how much more full of life, had been the work of 1835 ! There Strauss had not divided the creepers from the stem. The straining strength which upheld this wealth of creepers was but vaguely suspected. Behind the billowy mists of legend we caught from time to time a momentary glimpse of the gigantic figure of Jesus, as though lit up by a lightning-flash. It was no complete and harmonious picture, but it was full of suggestions, rich in thoughts thrown out carelessly, rich in contradictions even, out of which the imagination could create a portrait of Jesus. It is just this wealth of suggestion that is lacking in the second picture. Strauss is trying now to give a definite portrait. In the inevitable process of harmonising and modelling to scale he is obliged to reject the finest thoughts of the previous work because they will not fit in exactly; some of them are altered out of recognition, some are filed away.

There is wanting, too, that perfect freshness as of the spring which is only found when thoughts have but newly come into flower. The writing is no longer spontaneous ; one feels that Strauss is setting forth thoughts which have ripened with his mind and grown old with it, and now along with their definiteness of form have taken on a certain stiffness. There are now no hinted possibilites, full of promise, to dance gaily through the movement of his dialectic ; all is sober reason—a thought too sober. Renan had one advantage over Strauss in that he wrote when the material was fresh to him—one might almost say strange to him—and was capable of calling up in him the response of vivid feeling.

For a popular book, too, it lacks that living interplay of reflection with narration without which the ordinary reader fails to get a grip of the history. The first Life of Jesus had been rich in this respect, since it had been steeped in the Hegelian theory regarding the realisation of the Idea. In the meantime Strauss had seen the Hegelian philosophy fall from its high estate, and himself had found no way of reconciling history and idea, so that his present Life of Jesus was a mere objective presentment of the history. It was, therefore, not adapted to make any impression upon the popular mind.

In reality it is merely an exposition, in more or less popular form, of the writer’s estimate of what had been done in the study of the subject during the past thirty years, and shows what he had learnt and what he had failed to learn.

As regards the Synoptic question he had learnt nothing. In his opinion the criticism of the Gospels has “run to seed.” He treats with a pitying contempt both the earlier and the more recent defenders of the Marcan hypothesis. Weisse is a dilettante; Wilke had failed to make any impression on him ; Holtzmann’s work was as yet unknown to him. But in the following year he discharged the vials of his wrath upon the man who had both strengthened the foundations and put on the coping-stone of the new hypothesis. “Our lions of St. Mark, older and younger,” he says in the appendix to his criticism of Schleiermacher’s Life of Jesus, “ may roar as loud as they like, so long as there are six solid reasons against the priority of Mark to set against every one of their flimsy arguments in its favour—and they themselves supply us with a store of counter-arguments in the shape of admissions of later editing and so forth. The whole theory appears to me a temporary aberration, like the ‘ music of the future’ or the anti-vaccination movement; and I seriously believe that it is the same order of mind which, in different circumstances, falls a victim to the one delusion or the other.” But he must not be supposed, he says, to take the critical mole-hills thrown up by Holtzmann for veritable mountains.

Against such opponents he does not scruple to seek aid from Schleiermacher, whose unbiased but decided opinion had ascribed a tertiary character to Mark. Even Gfrörer’s view that Mark adapted his Gospel to the needs of the Church by leaving out everything which was open to objection in Matthew and Luke, is good enough to be brought to bear against the bat-eyed partisans of Mark. F. C. Baur is reproached for having given too much weight to the “tendency ” theory in his criticism of the Gospels ; and also for having taken suggestions of Strauss’s and worked them out, supposing that he was offering something new when he was really only amplifying. In the end he had only given a criticism of the Gospels, not of the Gospel history.

But this irritation against his old teacher is immediately allayed when he comes to speak of the Fourth Gospel. Here the teacher has carried to a successful issue the campaign which the pupil had begun. Strauss feels compelled to “express his gratitude for the work done by the Tübingen school on the Johannine question.” He himself had only been able to deal with the negative side of the question—to show that the Fourth Gospel was not an historical source, but a theological invention ; they had dealt with it positively, and had assigned the document to its proper place in the evolution of Christian thought. There is only one point with which he quarrels. Baur had made the Fourth Gospel too completely spiritual, “whereas the fact is,” says Strauss, “that it is the most material of all.” It is true, Strauss explains, that the Evangelist starts out to interpret miracle and eschatology symbolically; but he halts half-way and falls back upon the miraculous, enhancing the professed fact in proportion as he makes it spiritually more significant. Beside the spiritual return of Jesus in the Paraclete he places His return in a material body, bearing the marks of the wounds ; beside the inward present judgment, a future outward judgment ; and the fact that he sees the one in the other, finds the one present and visible in the other, is just what constitutes the mystical character of his Gospel. This mysticism attracts the modern world. “The Johannine Christ, who in His descriptions of Himself seems to be always out-doing Himself, is the counterpart of the modern believer, who in order to remain a believer must continually out-do himself; the Johannine miracles which are always being interpreted spiritually, and at the same time raised to a higher pitch of the miraculous, which are counted and documented in every possible way, and yet must not be considered the true ground of faith, are at once miracles and no miracles. We must believe them, and yet can believe without them; in short they exactly meet the taste of the present day, which delights to involve itself in contradictions and is too lethargic and wanting in courage for any clear insight or decided opinion on religious matters.”

Strictly speaking, however, the Strauss of the second Life of Jesus has no right to criticise the Fourth Gospel for sublimating the history, for he himself gives what is nothing else than a spiritualisation of the Jesus of the Synoptics. And he does it in such an arbitrary fashion that one is compelled to ask how far he does it with a good conscience. A typical case is the exposition of Jesus’ answer to the Baptist’s message. “Is it possible,” Jesus means, “that you fail to find in Me the miracles which you expect from the Messiah? And yet I daily open the eyes of the spiritually blind and the ears of the spiritually deaf, make the lame walk erect and vigorous, and even give new life to those who are morally dead. Any one who understands how much greater these spiritual miracles are, will not be offended at the absence of bodily miracles; only such an one can receive, and is worthy of, the salvation which I am bringing to mankind.”

Here the fundamental weakness of his method is clearly shown. The vaunted apparatus for the evaporation of the mythical does not work quite satisfactorily. The ultimate product of this process was expected to be a Jesus who should be essential man; the actual product, however, is Jesus the historical man, a being whose looks and sayings are strange and unfamiliar. Strauss is too purely a critic, too little of the creative historian, to recognise this strange being. That Jesus really lived in a world of Jewish ideas and held Himself to be Messiah in the Jewish sense is for the writer of the Life of Jesus an impossibility. The deposit which resists the chemical process for the elimination of myth, he must therefore break up with the hammer.

How different from the Strauss of 1835 ! He had then recognised eschatology as the most important element in Jesus’ world of thought, and in some incidental remarks had made striking applications of it. He had, for example, proposed to regard the Last Supper not as the institution of a feast for coming generations, but as a Paschal meal, at which Jesus declared that He would next partake of the Paschal bread and Paschal wine along with His disciples in the heavenly kingdom. In the second Life of Jesus this view is given up ; Jesus did found a feast. “ In order to give a living centre of unity to the society which it was His purpose to found, Jesus desired to institute this distribution of bread and wine as a feast to be constantly repeated.” One might be reading Renan. This change of attitude is typical of much else.

Strauss is not in the least disquieted by finding himself at one with Schleiermacher in these attempts to spiritualise. On the contrary, he appeals to him. He shares, he says, Schleiermacher’s conviction “ that the unique self-consciousness of Jesus did not develop as a consequence of His conviction that He was the Messiah ; on the contrary, it was a consequence of His self-consciousness that He arrived at the view that the Messianic prophecies could point to no one but Himself.” The moment eschatology entered into the consciousness of Jesus it came in contact with a higher principle which over-mastered it and gradually dissolved it. “ Had Jesus applied the Messianic idea to Himself before He had had a profound religious consciousness to which to relate it, doubtless it would have taken possession of Him so powerfully that He could never have escaped from its influence.” We must suppose the ideality, the concentration upon that which was inward, the determination to separate religion, on the one hand, from politics, and on the other, from ritual, the serene consciousness of being able to attain to peace with God and with Himself by purely spiritual means—all this we must suppose to have reached a certain ripeness, a certain security, in the mind of Jesus, before He permitted Himself to entertain the thought of His Messiahship, and this we may believe is the reason why He grasped it in so independent and individual a fashion. In this, therefore, Strauss has become the pupil of Weisse.

Even in the Old Testament prophecies, he explains, we find two conceptions, a more ideal and a more practical. Jesus holds consistently to the first, He describes Himself as the Son of Man because this designation “contains the suggestion of humility and lowliness, of the human and natural.” At Jerusalem, Jesus, in giving His interpretation of Psalm cx., “made merry over the Davidic descent of the Messiah.” He desired “to be Messiah in the sense of a patient teacher exercising a quiet influence.” As the opposition of the people grew more intense, He took up some of the features of Isaiah liii. into His conception of the Messiah.

Of His resurrection, Jesus can only have spoken in a metaphorical sense. It is hardly credible that one who was pure man could have arrogated to himself the position of judge of the world. Strauss would like best to ascribe all the eschatology to the distorting medium of early Christianity, but he does not venture to carry this through with logical consistency. He takes it as certain, however, that Jesus, even though it sometimes seems as if He did not expect the Kingdom to be realised in the present, but in a future, world-era, and to be brought about by God in a supernatural fashion, nevertheless sets about the establishment of the Kingdom by purely spiritual influence.

With this end in view He leaves Galilee, when He judges the time to be ripe, in order to work on a larger scale. “In case of an unfavourable issue, He reckons on the influence which a martyr-death has never failed to exercise in giving momentum to a lofty idea.” How far He had advanced, when He entered on the fateful journey to Jerusalem, in shaping His plan, and especially in organising the company of adherents who had gathered about Him, it is impossible to determine with any exactness. He permitted the triumphal entry because He did not desire to decline the role of the Messiah in every aspect of it.

Owing to this arbitrary spiritualisation of the Synoptic Jesus, Strauss’s picture is in essence much more unhistorical than Renan’s. The latter had not needed to deny that Jesus had done miracles, and he had been able to suggest an explanation of how Jesus came in the end to fall back upon the eschatological system of ideas. But at what a price! By portraying Jesus as at variance with Himself, a hero broken in spirit. This price is too high for Strauss. Arbitrary as his treatment of history is, he never loses the intuitive feeling that in Jesus’ self-consciousness there is a unique absence of struggle; that He does not bear the scars which are found in those natures which win their way to freedom and purity through strife and conflict, that in Him there is no trace of the hardness, harshness, and gloom which cleave to such natures throughout life, but that He “is manifestly a beautiful nature from the first.” Thus, for all Strauss’s awkward, arbitrary handling of the history he is greater than the rival who could manufacture history with such skill.

Nevertheless, from the point of view of theological science, this work marks a standstill. That was the net result of the thirty years of critical study of the life of Jesus for the man who had inaugurated it so impressively. This was the only fruit which followed those blossoms so full of promise of the first Life of Jesus.

It is significant that in the same year there appeared Schleiermacher’s lectures on the Life of Jesus, which had not seen the light for forty years, because, as Strauss himself remarked in his criticism of the resurrected work, it had neither anodyne nor dressing for the wounds which his first Life of Jesus had made. The wounds, however, had cicatrised in the meantime. It is true Strauss is a just judge, and makes ample acknowledgment of the greatness of Schleiermacher’s achievement. He blames Schleiermacher for setting up his “presuppositions in regard to Christ” as an historical canon, and considering it a proof that a statement is unhistorical if it does not square with those presuppositions. But does not the purely human, but to a certain extent unhistorical, man, who is to be the ultimate product of the process of eliminating myth, serve Strauss as his “theoretic Christ” who determines the presentment of his historical Jesus ? Does he not share with Schleiermacher the erroneous, artificial, “double” construction of the consciousness of Jesus ? And what about their views of Mark? What fundamental difference is there, when all is said, between Schleiermacher’s de-rationalised Life of Jesus and Strauss’s ? Certainly this second Life of Jesus would not have frightened Schleiermacher’s away into hiding for thirty years.

So Schleiermacher’s Life of Jesus might now safely venture forth into the light. There was no reason why it should feel itself a stranger at this period, and it had no need to be ashamed of itself. Its rationalistic birth-marks were concealed by its brilliant dialectic. And the only real advance in the meantime was the general recognition that the Life of Jesus was not to be interpreted on rationalistic, but on historical lines. All other, more definite, historical results had proved more or less illusory ; there is no vitality in them. The works of Renan, Strauss, Schenkel, Weizsäcker, and Keim are in essence only different ways of carrying out a single ground-plan. To read them one after another is to be simply appalled at the stereotyped uniformity of the world of thought in which they they move. You feel that you have read exactly the same thing in the others, almost in identical phrases. To obtain the works of Schenkel and Weizsäcker you only need to weaken down in Strauss the sharp discrimination between John and the Synoptists so far as to allow of the Fourth Gospel being used to some extent as an historical source “in the higher sense,” and to put the hypothesis of the priority of Mark in place of the Tübingen view adopted by Strauss. The latter is an external operation and does not essentially modify the view of the Life of Jesus, since by admitting the Johannine scheme the Marcan plan is again disturbed, and Strauss’s arbitrary spiritualisation of the Synoptics comes to something not very different from the acceptance of that “in a higher sense historical Gospel” alongside of them. The whole discussion regarding the sources is only loosely connected with the process of arriving at the portrait of Jesus, since this portrait is fixed from the first, being determined by the mental atmosphere and religious horizon of the ’sixties. They all portray the Jesus of liberal theology; the only difference is that one is a little more conscientious in his colouring than another, and one perhaps has a little more taste than another, or is less concerned about the consequences.

The desire to escape in some way from the alternative between the Synoptists and John was native to the Marcan hypothesis. Weisse had endeavoured to effect this by distinguishing between the sources in the Fourth Gospel. Schenkel and Weizsäcker are more modest. They do not feel the need of any clear literary view of the Fourth Gospel, of any critical discrimination between original and secondary elements in it; they are content to use as historical whatever their instinct leads them to accept. “Apart from the fourth Gospel,” says Schenkel, “ we should miss in the protrait of the Redeemer the unfathomable depths and the inaccessible heights.” “Jesus,” to quote his aphorism, “was not always thus in reality, but He was so in truth.” Since when have historians had the right to distinguish between reality and truth? That was one of the bad habits which the author of this characterisation of Jesus brought with him from his earlier dogmatic training.

Weizsäcker expresses himself with more circumspection. “ We possess,” he says, “in the Fourth Gospel genuine apostolic reminiscences as much as in any part of the first three Gospels; but between the facts on which the reminiscences are based and their reproduction in literary form there lies the development of their possessor into a great mystic, and the influence of a philosophy which here for the first time united itself in this way with the Gospel ; they need, therefore, to be critically examined ; and’ the historical truth of this gospel, great as it is, must not be measured with a painful literality.”

One wonders why both these writers appeal to Holtzmann, seeing that they practically abandon the Marcan plan which he had worked out at the end of his very thorough examination of this Gospel. They do not accept as sufficient the controversy regarding the ceremonial regulations in Mark vii. which, with the rejection at Nazareth, constitute, in Holtzmann’s view, the turning-point of the Galilaean ministry, but find the cause of the change of attitude on the part of the people rather in the Johannine discourse about eating and drinking the flesh and blood of the Son of Man. The section Mark x.-xv., which has a certain unity, they interpret in the light of the Johannine tradition, finding in it traces of a previous ministry of Jesus in Jerusalem and interweaving with it the Johannine story of the Passion. According to Schenkel the last visit to Jerusalem must have been of considerable duration. When confronted with John, the admission may be wrung from the Synoptists that Jesus did not travel straight through Jericho to the capital, but worked first for a considerable time in Judaea. Strauss tartly observes that he cannot see what the author of the “ characterisation” stood to gain by underwriting Holtzmann’s Marcan hypothesis.

Weizsäcker is still bolder in making interpolations from the Johannine tradition. He places the cleansing of the Temple, in contradictión to Mark, in the early period of Jesus’ ministry, on the ground that “it bears the character of a first appearance, a bold deed with which to open His career.” He fails to observe, however, that if this act really took place at this point of time, the whole development of the life of Jesus which Holtzmann had so ingeniously traced in Mark, is at once thrown into confusion. In describing the last visit to Jerusalem, Weizsäcker is not content to insert the Marcan stones into the Johannine cement ; he goes farther and expressly states that the great farewell discourses of Jesus to His disciples agree with the Synoptic discourses to the disciples spoken during the last days, however completely they of all others bear the peculiar stamp of the Johannine diction.

Thus in the second period of the Marcan hypothesis the same spectacle meets us as in the earlier. The hypothesis has a literary existence, indeed it is carried by Holtzmann to such a degree of demonstration that it can no longer be called a mere hypothesis, but it does not succeed in winning an assured position in the critical study of the Life of Jesus. It is common-land not yet taken into cultivation.

That is due in no small measure to the fact that Holtzmann did not work out the hypothesis from the historical side, but rather on literary lines, recalling Wilke—as a kind of problem in Synoptic arithmetic—and in his preface expresses dissent from the Tübingen school, who desired to leave no alternative between John on the one side and the Synoptics on the other, whereas he approves the attempt to evade the dilemma in some way or other, and thinks he can find in the didactic narrative of the Fourth Gospel the traces of a development of Jesus similar to that portrayed in the Synoptics, and has therefore no fundamental objection to the use of John alongside of the Synoptics. In taking up this position, however, he does not desire to be understood as meaning that “it would be to the interests of science to throw Synoptic and Johannine passages together indiscriminately and thus construct a life of Jesus out of them.” “It would be much better first to reconstruct separately the Synoptic and Johannine pictures of Christ, composing each of its own distinctive material. It is only when this has been done that it is possible to make a fruitful comparison of the two.” Exactly the same position had been taken up sixty-seven years before by Herder. In Holtzmann’s case, however, the principle was stated with so many qualifications that the adherents of his view read into it the permission to combine, in a picture treated “in the grand style,” Synoptic with Johannine passages.

In addition to this, the plan which Holtzmann finally evolved out of Mark was much too fine-drawn to bear the weight of the remainder of the Synoptic material. He distinguishes seven stages in the Galilaean ministry, of which the really decisive one is the sixth, in which Jesus leaves Galilee and goes northward, so that Schenkel and Weizsäcker are justified in distinguishing practically only two great Galilaean periods, the first of which—down to the controversy about ceremonial purity—they distinguish as the period of success, the second—down to the departure from Judaea —as the period of decline. What attracted these writers to the Marcan hypothesis was not so much the authentification which it gave to the detail of Mark, though they were willing enough to accept that, but the way in which this Gospel lent itself to the a priori view of the course of the life of Jesus which they unconsciously brought with them. They appealed to Holtzmann because he showed such wonderful skill in extracting from the Marcan narrative the view which commended itself to the spirit of the age as manifested in the ’sixties.

Holtzmann read into this Gospel that Jesus had endeavoured in Galilee to found the Kingdom of God in an ideal sense ; that He concealed His consciousness of being the Messiah, which was constantly growing more assured, until His followers should have attained by inner enlightenment to a higher view of the Kingdom of God and of the Messiah; that almost at the end of His Galilaean ministry He declared Himself to them as the Messiah at Caesarea Philippi ; that on the same occasion He at once began to picture to them a suffering Messiah, whose lineaments gradually became more and more distinct in His mind amid the growing opposition which He encountered, until finally, He communicated to His disciples His decision to put the Messianic cause to the test in the capital, and that they followed Him thither and saw how His fate fulfilled itself. It was this fundamental view which made the success of the hypothesis. Holtzmann, not less than his followers, believed that he had discovered it in the Gospel itself, although Strauss, the passionate opponent of the Marcan hypothesis, took essentially the same view of the development of Jesus’ thought. But the way in which Holtzmann exhibited this characteristic view of the ’sixties as arising naturally out of the detail of Mark, was so perfect, so artistically charming, that this view appeared henceforward to be inseparably bound up with the Marcan tradition.

Scarcely ever has a description of the life of Jesus exercised so irresistible an influence as that short outline—it embraces scarcely twenty pages—with which Holtzmann closes his examination of the Synoptic Gospels. This chapter became the creed and catechism of all who handled the subject during the following decades. The treatment of the life of Jesus had to follow the lines here laid down until the Marcan hypothesis was delivered from its bondage to that a priori view of the development of Jesus. Until then any one might appeal to the Marcan hypothesis, meaning thereby only that general view of the inward and outward course of development in the life of Jesus, and might treat the remainder of the Synoptic material how he chose, combining with it, at his pleasure, material drawn from John. The victory, therefore, belonged, not to the Marcan hypothesis pure and simple, but to the Marcan hypothesis as psychologically interpreted by a liberal theology.

The points of distinction between the Weissian and the new interpretation are as follows :—Weisse is sceptical as regards the detail ; the new Marcan hypothesis ventures to base conclusions even upon incidental remarks in the text. According to Weisse there were not distinct periods of success and failure in the ministry of Jesus; the new Marcan hypothesis confidently affirms this distinction, and goes so far as to place the sojourn of Jesus in the parts beyond Galilee under the heading “Flights and Retirements.” The earlier Marcan hypothesis expressly denies that outward circumstances influenced the resolve of Jesus to die; according to the later, it was the opposition of the people, and the impossibility of carrying out His mission on other lines which forced Him to enter on the path of suffering.The Jesus of Weisse’s view has completed His development at the time of His appearance ; the Jesus of the new interpretation of Mark continues to develop in the course of His public ministry.

There is complete agreement, however, in the rejection of eschatology. For Holtzmann, Schenkel, and Weizsäcker, as for Weisse, Jesus desires “to found an inward kingdom of repentance.” It was Israel’s duty, according to Schenkel, to believe in the presence of the Kingdom which Jesus proclaimed. John the Baptist was unable to believe in it, and it was for this reason that Jesus censured him—for it is in this sense that Schenkel understands the saying about the greatest among those born of women who is nevertheless the least in the Kingdom of Heaven. “So near the light and yet shutting his eyes to its beams—is there not some blame here, an undeniable lack of spiritual and moral receptivity ? ”
Jesus makes Messianic claims only in a spiritual sense. He does not grasp at super-human glory; it is His purpose to bear the sin of the whole people, and He undergoes baptism “as a humble member of the national community.”

His whole teaching consists, when once He Himself has attained to clear consciousness of His vocation, in a constant struggle to root out from the hearts of His disciples their theocratic hopes and to effect a transformation of their traditional Messianic ideas. When, on Simon’s hailing Him as the Messiah, He declares that flesh and blood has not revealed it to him, He means, according to Schenkel, “that Simon has at this moment overcome the false Messianic ideas, and has recognised in Him the ethical and spiritual deliverer of Israel.”

“That Jesus predicted a personal, bodily, Second Coming, in the brightness of His heavenly splendour and surrounded by the heavenly hosts, to establish an earthly kingdom, is not only not proved, it is absolutely impossible.” His purpose is to establish a community of which His disciples are to be the foundation, and by means of this community to bring about the coming of the Kingdom of God. He can, therefore, only have spoken of His return as an impersonal return in the Spirit. The later exponents of the Marcan view were no doubt generally inclined to regard the return as personal and corporeal. For Schenkel, however, it is historically certain that the real meaning of the eschatological discourses is more faithfully preserved in the Fourth Gospel than in the Synoptics.

In his anxiety to eliminate any enthusiastic elements from the representation of Jesus, he ends by drawing a bourgeois Messiah whom he might have extracted from the old-fashioned rationalistic work of the worthy Reinhard. He feels bound to save the credit of Jesus by showing that the entry into Jerusalem was not intended as a provocation to the government. “It is only by making this supposition,” he explains, “that we avoid casting a slur upon the character of Jesus. It was certainly a constant trait in His character that He never unnecessarily exposed Himself to danger, and never, except for the most pressing reasons, did He give any support to the suspicions which were arising against Him; He avoided provoking His opponents to drastic measures by any overt act directed against them.” Even the cleansing of the Temple was not an act of violence but merely an attempt at reform.

Schenkel is able to give these explanations because he knows the most secret thoughts of Jesus and is therefore no longer bound to the text. He knows, for example, that immediately after His baptism He attained to the knowledge “ that the way of the Law was no longer the way of salvation for His people.” Jesus cannot therefore have uttered the saying about the permanence of the Law in Mark v. 18. In the controversies about the Sabbath “He proclaims freedom of worship.”

As time went on, He began to take the heathen world into the scope of His purpose. “The hard saying addressed to the Canaanite woman represents rather the proud and exclusive spirit of Pharisaism than the spirit of Jesus.” It was a test ot faith, the success of which had a decisive influence upon Jesus’ attitude towards the heathen. Henceforth it is obvious that He is favourably disposed towards them. He travels through Samaria and establishes a community there. In Jerusalem He openly calls the heathen to Him. At certain feasts which they had arranged for that purpose, some of the leaders of the people set a trap for Him, and betrayed Him into liberal sayings in regard to the Gentiles which sealed His fate.

This was the course of development of the Master, who, according to Schenkel, “ saw with a clear eye into the future history of the world,” and knew that the fall of Jerusalem must take place in order to close the theocratic era and give the Gentiles free access to the universal community of Christians which He was to found. “This period He described as the period of His coming, as in a sense His Second Advent upon earth.”

The same general procedure is followed by Weizsäcker in his “ Gospel History,” though his work is of a much higher quality than Schenkel’s. His account of the sources is one of the clearest that has ever been written. In the description of the life of Jesus, however, the unhesitating combination of material from the Fourth Gospel with that of the Synoptics rather confuses the picture. And whereas Renan only offers the results of the completed process, Weizsäcker works out his, it might almost be said, under the eyes of the reader, which makes the arbitrary character of the proceeding only the more obvious. But in his attitude towards the sources Weizsäcker is wholly free from the irresponsible caprice in which Schenkel indulges. From time to time, too, he gives a hint of unsolved problems in the background. For example, in treating of the declaration of Jesus to His judges that He would come as the Son of Man upon the clouds of heaven, he remarks how surprising it is that Jesus could so often have used the designation Son of Man on earlier occasions without being accused of claiming the Messiahship.

It is true that this is a mere scraping of the keel upon a sandbank, by which the steersman does not allow himself to be turned from his course, for Weizsäcker concludes that the name Son of Man, in spite of its use in Daniel, “had not become a generally current or really popular designation of the Messiah.” But even this faint suspicion of the difficulty is a welcome sign. Much emphasis, in fact, in practice rather too much emphasis, is laid on the principle that in the great discourses of Jesus the structure is not historical; they are only collections of sayings formed to meet the needs of the Christian community in later times. In this Weizsäcker is sometimes not less arbitrary than Schenkel, who represents the Lord’s Prayer as given by Jesus to the disciples only in the last days at Jerusalem It was an axiom of the school that Jesus could not have delivered discourses such as the Evangelists record.

If Schenkel’s picture of Jesus’ character attracted much more attention than Weizsäcker’s work, that is mainly due to the art of lively popular presentation by which it is distinguished. The writer knows well how to keep the reader’s interest awake by the use of exciting headlines. Catchwords abound, and arrest the ear, for they are the catchwords about which the religious controversies of the time revolved. There is never far to look for the moral of the history, and the Jesus here portrayed can be imagined plunging into the midst of the debates in any ministerial conference. The moralising, it must be admitted, sometimes becomes the occasion of the feeblest ineptitudes. Jesus sent out His disciples two and two; this is for Schenkel a marvellous exhibition of wisdom. The Lord designed, thereby, to show that in His opinion “nothing is more inimical to the interests of the Kingdom of God than individualism, self-will, self - pleasing.” Schenkel entirely fails to recognise the superb irony of the saying that in this life all that a man gives up for the sake of the Kingdom of God is repaid a hundredfold in persecutions, in order that in the Coming Age he may receive eternal life as his reward. He interpreted it as meaning that the sufferer shall be compensated by love; his fellow-Christians will endeavour to make it up to him, and will offer him their own possessions so freely that, in consequence of this brotherly love, he will soon have, for the house which he has lost, a hundred houses, for the lost sisters, brothers, and so forth, a hundred sisters, a hundred brothers, a hundred fathers, a hundred mothers, a hundred farms. Schenkel forgets to add that, if this is to be the interpretation of the saying, the persecuted man must also receive through this compensating love, a hundred wives.

This want of insight into the largeness, the startling originality, the self-contradictoriness, and the terrible irony in the thought of Jesus, is not a peculiarity of Schenkel’s ; it is characteristic of all the liberal Lives of Jesus from Strauss’s down to Oskar Holtzmann’s. How could it be otherwise ? They had to transpose a way of envisaging the world which belonged to a hero and a dreamer to the plane of thought of a rational bourgeois religion. But in Schenkel’s representation, with its popular appeal, this banality is particularly obtrusive.

In the end, however, what made the success of the book was not its popular characteristics, whether good or bad, but the enmity which it drew down upon the author. The Basle Privat-Docent who, in his work of 1839, had congratulated the Zurichers on having rejected Strauss, now, as Professor and Director of the Seminary at Heidelberg, came very near being adjudged worthy of the martyr’s crown himself. He had been at Heidelberg since 1851, after holding for a short time De Wette’s chair at Basle. At his first coming a mildly reactionary theology might have claimed him as its own. He gave it a right to do so by the way in which he worked against the philosopher, Kuno Fischer, in the Higher Consistory. But in the struggles over the constitution of the Church he changed his position. As a defender of the rights of the laity he ranged himself on the more liberal side. After his great victory in the General Synod of 1861, in which the new constitution of the Church was established, he called a German Protestant assembly at Frankfort, in order to set on foot a general movement for Church reform. This assembly met in 1863, and led to the formation of the Protestant Association.

When the Charakterbild Jesu appeared, friend and foe were alike surprised at the thoroughness with which Schenkel advocated the more liberal views. “ Schenkel’s book,” complained Luthardt, in a lecture at Leipzig, “has aroused a painful interest. We had learnt to know him in many aspects; we were not prepared for such an apostasy from his own past. How long is it since he brought about the dismissal of Kuno Fischer from Heidelberg because he saw in the pantheism of this philosopher a danger to Church and State? It is still fresh in our memory that it was he who in the year 1852 drew up the report of the Theological Faculty of Heidelberg upon the ecclesiastical controversy raised by Pastor Dülon at Bremen, in which he denied Dülon’s Christianity on the ground that he had assailed the doctrines of original sin, of justification by faith, of a living and personal God, of the eternal Divine Sonship of Christ, of the Kingdom of God, and of the credibility of the holy Scriptures.” And now this same Schenkel was misusing the Life of Jesus as a weapon in “party polemics”!

The agitation against him was engineered from Berlin, where his successful attack upon the illiberal constitution of the Church had not been forgiven. One hundred and seventeen Baden clerics signed a protest declaring the author unfitted to hold office as a theological teacher in the Baden Church. Throughout the whole of Germany the pastors agitated against him. It was especially demanded that he should be immediately removed from his post as Director of the Seminary. A counter-protest was issued by the Durlach Conference in the July of 1864, in which Bluntschli and Holtzmann vigorously defended him. The Ecclesiastical Council supported him, and the storm gradually died away, especially when Schenkel in two “Defences” skilfully softened down the impression made by his work, and endeavoured to quiet the public mind by pointing out that he had only attempted to set forth one side of the truth.

The position of the prospective martyr was not rendered any more easy by Strauss. In an appendix to his criticism of Schleiermacher’s Life of Jesus he settled accounts with his old antagonist. He recognises no scientific value whatever in the work. None of the ideas developed in it are new. One might fairly say, he thinks, “that the conclusions which have given offence had been carried down the Neckar from Tübingen to Heidelberg, and had there been salvaged by Herr Scbenkel—in a somewhat sodden and deteriorated condition, it must be admitted—and incorporated into the edifice which he was constructing.” Further, Strauss censures the book for its want of frankness, its half-and-half character, which manifests itself especially in the way in which the author clings to orthodox phraseology. “Over and over again he gives criticism with one hand all that it can possibly ask, and then takes back with the other whatever the interests of faith seem to demand ; with the constant result that what is taken back is far too much for criticism and not nearly enough for faith.” “In the future,” he concludes, “it will be said of the seven hundred Durlachers that they fought like paladins to prevent the enemy from capturing a standard which was really nothing but a patched dish-clout.”

Schenkel died in 1885 after severe sufferings. As a critic he lacked independence, and was, therefore, always inclined to compromises ; in controversy he was vehement. Though he did nothing remarkable in theology, German Protestantism owes him a vast debt for acting as its tribune in the ’sixties.

That was the last time that any popular excitement was aroused in connexion with the critical study of the life of Jesus ; and it was a mere storm in a tea-cup. Moreover, it was the man and not his work that aroused the excitement. Henceforth public opinion was almost entirely indifferent to anything which appeared in this department. The great fundamental question whether historical criticism was to be applied to the life of Jesus had been decided in connexion with Strauss’s first work on the subject. If here and there indignation aroused by a Life of Jesus brought inconveniences to the author and profit to the publisher, that was connected in every case with purely external and incidental circumstances. Public opinion was not disquieted for a moment by Volkmar and Wrede, although they are much more extreme than Schenkel.

Most of the Lives of Jesus which followed had, it is true, nothing very exciting about them. They were mere variants of the type established during the ’sixties, variants of which the minute differences were only discernible by theologians, and which were otherwise exactly alike in arrangement and result. As a contribution to criticism, Keim’s “History of Jesus of Nazara” was the most important Life of Jesus which appeared in a long period.

It is not of much consequence that he believes in the priority of Matthew, since his presentment of the history follows the general lines of the Marcan plan, which is preserved also in Matthew. He gives it as his opinion that the life of Jesus is to be reconstructed from the Synoptics, whether Matthew has the first place or Mark. He sketches the development of Jesus in bold lines. As early as his inaugural address at Zurich, delivered on the 17th of December 1860, which, short as it was, made a powerful impression upon Holtzmann as well as upon others, he had set up the thesis that the Synoptics “artlessly, almost against their will, show us unconsciously in incidental, unobtrusive traits the progressive development of Jesus as youth and man.”  His later works are the development of this sketch.

His grandiose style gave the keynote for the artistic treatment of the portrait of Jesus in the ’sixties. His phrases and expressions became classical. Every one follows him in speaking of the “ Galilaean spring-tide ” in the ministry of Jesus.

On the Johannine question he takes up a clearly defined position, denying the possibility of using the Fourth Gospel side by side with the Synoptics as an historical source. He goes very far in finding special significance in the details of the Synoptists, especially when he is anxious to discover traces of want of success in the second period of Jesus’ ministry, since the plan of his Life of Jesus depends on the sharp antithesis between the periods of success and failure. The whole of the second half of the Galilaean period consists for him in “ frights and retirements.” “ Beset by constantly renewed alarms and hindrances, Jesus left the scene of His earlier work, left his dwelling-place at Capernaum, and accompanied only by a few faithful followers, in the end only by the Twelve, sought in all directions for places of refuge for longer or shorter periods, in order to avoid and elude His enemies.” Keim frankly admits, indeed, that there is not a syllable in the Gospels to suggest that these journeys are the journeys of a fugitive. But instead of allowing that to shake his conviction, he abuses the narrators and suggests that they desired to conceal the truth. “These flights,” he says, “were no doubt inconvenient to the Evangelists. Matthew is here the frankest, but in order to restore the impression of Jesus’ greatness he transfers to this period the greatest miracles.

The later Evangelists are almost completely silent about these retirements, and leave us to suppose that Jesus made His journeys to Caesarea Philippi and the neighbourhood of Tyre and Sidon in the middle of winter from mere pleasure in travel, or for the extension of the Gospel, and that He made His last journey to Jerusalem without any external necessity, entirely in consequence of His free decision, even though the expectation of death which they ascribe to Him goes far to counteract the impression of complete freedom.“ Why do they thus correct the history? ”The motive was the same difficulty which draws from us also the question, ‘Is it possible that Jesus should flee ?’” Keim answers ”Yes.” Here the liberal psychology comes clearly to light. “Jesus fled,” he explains, ”because He desired to preserve Himself for God and man, to secure the continuance of His ministry to Israel, to defeat as long as possible the dark designs of His enemies, to carry His cause to Jerusalem, and there, while acting, as it was His duty to do, with prudence and foresight in his relations with men, to recognise clearly, by the Divine silence or the Divine action, what the Divine purpose really was, which could not be recognised in a moment. He acts like a man who knows the duty both of examination and action, who knows His own worth and what is due to Him and His obligations towards God and man.”

In regard to the question of eschatology, however, Keim does justice to the texts. He admits that eschatology, “a Kingdom of God clothed with material splendours,” forms an integral part of the preaching of Jesus from the first ; “ that He never rejected it, and therefore never by a so-called advance transformed the sensuous Messianic idea into a purely spiritual one.” “Jesus does not uproot from the minds of the sons of Zebedee their belief in the thrones on His right hand and His left; He does not hesitate to make His entry into Jerusalem in the character of the Messiah ; He acknowledges His Messiahship before the Council without making any careful reservations ; upon the cross His title is The King of the Jews; He consoles Himself and His followers with the thought of His return as an earthly ruler, and leaves with His disciples, without making any attempt to check it, the belief, which long survived, in a future establishment or restoration of the Kingdom in an Israel delivered from bondage.” Keim remarks with much justice “that Strauss had been wrong in rejecting his own earlier and more correct formula,” which combined the eschatological and spiritual elements as operating side by side in the plan of Jesus.

Keim, however, himself in the end allows the spiritual elements practically to cancel the eschatological. He admits, it is true, that the expression Son of Man which Jesus uses designated the Messiah in the sense of Daniel’s prophecy, but he thinks that these pictorial representations in Daniel did not repel Jesus because He interpreted them spiritually, and “ intended to describe Himself as belonging to mankind even in His Messianic office.” To solve the difficulty Keim assumes a development. Jesus’ consciousness of His vocation had been strengthened both by success and by disappointment. As time went on He preached the Kingdom not as a future Kingdom, as at first, but as one which was present in Him and with Him, and He declares His Messiahship more and more openly before the world. He thinks of the Kingdom as undergoing development, but not with an unlimited, infinite horizon as the moderns suppose; the horizon is bounded by the eschatology. “For however easy it may be to read modern ideas into the parables of the draught of fishes, the mustard seed and the leaven, which, taken by themselves, seem to suggest the duration contemplated by the modern view, it is nevertheless indubitable that Jesus, like Paul, by no means looks forward to so protracted an earthly development; on the contrary, nothing appears more clearly from the sources than that He thought of its term as rapidly approaching, and of His victory as nigh at hand; and looked to the last decisive events, even to the day of judgment, as about to occur during the lifetime of the existing generation, including Himself and His apostles.”

“It was the overmastering pressure of circumstances which held Him prisoner within the limitations of this obsolete belief.” When His confidence in the development of His Kingdom came into collision with barriers which He could not pass, when His belief in the presence of the Kingdom of God grew dim, the purely eschatological ideas won the upper hand, “and if we may suppose that it was precisely this thought of the imminent decisive action of God, taking possession of His mind with renewed force at this point, which steeled His human courage, and roused Him to a passion of self-sacrifice with the hope of saving from the judgment whatever might still be saved, we may welcome His adoption of these narrower ideas as in accordance with the goodwill of God, which could only by this means maintain the failing strength of its human instrument and secure the spoils of the Divine warfare—the souls of men subdued and conquered by Him.”

The thought which had hovered before the mind of Renan, but which in his hands had become only the motive of a romance—une ficelle de roman as the French express it—was realised by Keim. Nothing deeper or more beautiful has since been written about the development of Jesus.

Less critical in character is Hase’s “History of Jesus,” which superseded in 1876 the various editions of the Handbook on the Life of Jesus which had first appeared in 1829.

The question of the use of John’s Gospel side by side with the Synoptics he leaves in suspense, and speaks his last word on the subject in the form of a parable. “If I may be allowed to use an avowedly parabolic form of speech, the relation of Jesus to the two streams of Gospel tradition may be illustrated as follows. Once there appeared upon earth a heavenly Being. According to His first three biographers He goes about more or less incognito, in the long garment of a Rabbi, a forceful popular figure, somewhat Judaic in speech, only occasionally, almost unmarked by His biographers, pointing with a smile beyond this brief interlude to His home. In the description left by His favourite disciple, He has thrown off the talar of the Rabbi, and stands before us in His native character, but in bitter and angry strife with those who took offence at His magnificent simplicity, and then later—it must be confessed, more attractively —in deep emotion at parting with those whom, during His pilgrimage on earth, He had made His friends, though they did not rightly understand His strange, unearthly speech.”

This is Hase’s way, always to avoid a final decision. The fifty years of critical study of the subject which he had witnessed and taken part in had made him circumspect, sometimes almost sceptical. But his notes of interrogation do not represent a covert supernaturalism like those in the Life of Jesus of 1829. Hase had been penetrated by the influence of Strauss and had adopted from him the belief that the true life of Jesus lies beyond the reach of criticism. “It is not my business,” he says to his students in an introductory lecture, “to recoil in horror from this or that thought, or to express it with embarrassment as being dangerous; I would not forbid even the enthusiasm of doubt and destruction which makes Strauss so strong and Renan so seductive.”

It is left uncertain whether Jesus’ consciousness of His Messiahship reaches back to the days of His childhood, or whether it arose in the ethical development of His ripening manhood. The concealment of His Messianic claims is ascribed, as by Schenkel and others, to paedagogic motives ; it was necessary that Jesus should first educate the people and the disciples up to a higher ethical view of His office. In the stress which he lays upon the eschatology Hase has points of affinity with Keim, for whom he had prepared the way in his Life of Jesus of 1829, in which he had been the first to assert a development in Jesus in the course of which He at first fully shared the Jewish eschatological views, but later advanced to a more spiritual conception. In his Life of Jesus of 1876 he is prepared to make the eschatology the dominant feature in the last period also, and does not hesitate to represent Jesus as dying in the enthusiastic expectation of returning upon the clouds of heaven. He feels himself driven to this by the eschatological ideas in the last discourses. “ Jesus’ clear and definite sayings,” he declares, “with the whole context of the circumstances in which they were spoken and understood, have been forcing me to this conclusion for years past.”

“That lofty Messianic dream must therefore continue to hold its place, since Jesus, influenced as much by the idea of the Messianic glories taken over from the beliefs of His people as by His own religious exaltation, could not think of the victory of His Kingdom except as closely connected with His own personal action. But that was only a misunderstanding due to the unconscious poesy of a high-ranging religious imagination, the ethical meaning of which could only be realised by a long historical development. Christ certainly came again as the greatest power on earth, and His power, along with His word, is constantly judging the world. He faced the sufferings which lay immediately before Him with His eyes fixed upon this great future.”
 
The chief excellence of Beyschlag’s Life of Jesus consists in its arrangement. He first, in the volume of preliminary investigations, discusses the problems, so that the narrative is disencumbered of all explanations, and by virtue of the author’s admirable style becomes a pure work of art, which rivets the interest of the reader and almost causes the want of a consistent historical conception to be overlooked. The fact is, however, that in regard to the two decisive questions Beyschlag is deliberately inconsistent. Although he recognises that the Gospel of John has not the character of an essentially historical source, “ being, rather, a brilliant subjective portrait,” “a didactic, quite as much as an historical work,” he produces his Life of Jesus by “combining and mortising together Synoptic and Johannine elements.” The same uncertainty prevails in regard to the recognition of the definitely eschatological character of Jesus’ system of ideas.

Beyschlag gives a very large place to eschatology, so that in order to combine the spiritual with the eschatological view his Jesus has to pass through three stages of development. In the first He preaches the Kingdom as something future, a supernatural event which was to be looked forward to, much as the Baptist preached it. Then the response which was called forth on all hands by His preaching led Him to believe that the Kingdom was in some sense already present, “that the Father, while He delays the outward manifestation of the Kingdom, is causing it to come even now in quiet and unnoticed ways by a humble gradual growth, and the great thought of His parables, which dominates the whole middle period of His public life, the resemblance of the Kingdom to mustard seed or leaven, comes to birth in His mind.” As His failure becomes more and more certain, “ the centre of gravity of His thought is shifted to the world beyond the grave, and the picture of a glorious return to conquer and to judge the world rises before Him.”

The peculiar interweaving of Synoptic and Johannine ideas leads to the result that, between the two, Beyschlag in the end forms no clear conception of the eschatology, and makes Jesus think in a half-Johannine, half-Synoptic fashion. “ It is a consequence of Jesus’ profound conception of the Kingdom of God as something essentially growing that He regards its final perfection not as a state of rest, but rather as a living movement, as a process of becoming, and since He regards this process as a cosmic and supernatural process in which history finds its consummation, and yet as arising entirely out of the ethical and historical process, He combines elements from each into the same prophetic conception.” An eschatology of this kind is not matter for history.

In the acceptance of the “miracles” Beyschlag goes to the utmost limits allowed by criticism; in considering the possibility of one or another of the recorded raisings from the dead he even finds himself within the borders of rationalist territory.

Whether Bernhard Weiss’s is to be numbered with the liberal Lives of Jesus is a question to which we may answer “Yes; but along with the faults of these it has some others in addition.” Weiss shares with the authors of the liberal “Lives” the assumption that Mark designed to set forth a definite “view of the course of development of the public ministry of Jesus,” and on the strength of that believes himself justified in giving a very far-reaching significance to the details offered by this Evangelist. The arbitrariness with which he carries out this theory is quite as unbounded as Schenkel’s, and in his fondness for the “argument from silence” he even surpasses him. Although Mark never allows a single word to escape him about the motives of the northern journeys, Weiss is so clever at reading between the lines that the motives are “ quite sufficiently clear to him. The object of these journeys was, according to his explanation, ”that the people might have an opportunity, undistracted by the immediate impression of His words and actions, to make up their minds in regard to the questions which they had put to Him so pressingly and inescapably in the last days of His public ministry; they must themselves draw their own conclusions alike from the declarations and from the conduct of Jesus.

Only by Jesus’ removing Himself for a time from their midst could they come to a clear decision as to their attitude to Jesus.“ This modern psychologising, however, is closely combined with a dialectic which seeks to show that there is no irreconcilable opposition between the belief in the Son of God and Son of Man which the Church of Christ has always confessed, and a critical investigation of the question how far the details of His life have been accurately preserved by tradition, and how they are to be historically interpreted. That means that Weiss is going to cover up the difficulties and stumbling-blocks with the mantle of Christian charity which he has woven out of the most plausible of the traditional sophistries. As a dialectical performance on these lines his Life of Jesus rivals in importance any except Schleiermacher’s. On points of detail there are many interesting historical observations. When all is said, one can only regret that so much knowledge and so much ability have been expended in the service of so hopeless a cause.

What was the net result of these liberal Lives of Jesus ? In the first place the clearing up of the relation between John and the Synoptics. That seems surprising, since the chief representatives of this school, Holtzmann, Schenkel, Weizsäcker, and Hase, took up a mediating position on this question, not to speak of Beyschlag and Weiss, for whom the possibility of reconciliation between the two lines of tradition is an accepted datum for ecclesiastical and apologetic reasons. But the very attempt to hold the position made clear its inherent untenability. The defence of the combination of the two traditions exhausted itself in the efforts of these its critical champions, just as the acceptance of the supernatural in history exhausted itself in the—to judge from the approval of the many—victorious struggle against Strauss. In the course of time Weizsäcker, like Holtzmann, advanced to the rejection of many possibility of reconciliation, and gave up the Fourth Gospel as an historical source. The second demand of Strauss’s first Life of Jesus was now—at last—conceded by scientific criticism.

That does not mean, of course, that no further attempts at reconciliation appeared thenceforward. Was ever a street so closed by a cordon that one or two isolated individuals did not get through? And to dodge through needs, after all, no special intelligence, or special courage. Must we never speak of a victory so long as a single enemy remains alive ? Individual attempts to combine John with the Synoptics which appeared after this decisive point are in some cases deserving of special attention, as for example, Wendt’s146 acute study of the “Teaching of Jesus,” which has all the importance of a full treatment of the “Life.” But the very way in which Wendt grapples with his task shows that the main issue is already decided. All he can do is to fight a skilful and determined rearguard action. It is not the Fourth Gospel as it stands, but only a “ground-document ” on which it is based, which he, in common with Weiss, Alexander Schweizer, and Renan, would have to be recognised “ alongside of the Gospel of Mark and the Logia of Matthew as an historically trustworthy tradition regarding the teaching of Jesus,” and which may be used along with those two writings in forming a picture of the Life of Jesus. For Wendt there is no longer any question of an interweaving and working up together of the individual sections of John and the Synoptists. He takes up much the same standpoint as Holtzmann occupied in 1863, but he provides a much more comprehensive and well-tested basis for it.

In the end there is no such very great difference between Wendt and the writers who had advanced to the conviction of the irreconcilability of the two traditions. Wendt refuses to give up the Fourth Gospel altogether; they, on their part, won only a half victory because they did not as a matter of fact escape from the Johannine interpretation of the Synoptics. By means of their psychological interpretation of the first three Gospels they make for themselves an ideal Fourth Gospel, in the interests of which they reject the existing Fourth Gospel. They will hear nothing of the spiritualised Johannine Christ, and refuse to acknowledge even to themselves that they have only deposed Him in order to put in His place a spiritualised Synoptic Jesus Christ, that is, a man who claimed to be the Messiah, but in a spiritual sense. All the development which they discover in Jesus is in the last analysis only an evidence of the tension between the Synoptics, in their natural literal sense, and the “Fourth Gospel” which is extracted from them by an artificial interpretation.

The fact is, the separation between the Synoptics and the Fourth Gospel is only the first step to a larger result which necessarily follows from it—the complete recognition of the fundamentally eschatological character of the teaching and influence of the Marcan and Matthaean Jesus. Inasmuch as they suppressed this consequence, Holtzmann, Schenkel, Hase, and Weizsäcker, even after their critical conversion, still lay under the spell of the Fourth Gospel, of a modern, ideal Fourth Gospel. It is only when the eschatological question is decided that the problem of the relation of John to the Synoptics is finally laid to rest. The liberal Lives of Jesus grasped their incompatibility only from a literary point of view, not in its full historical significance.

There is another result in the acceptance of which the critical school had stopped half-way. If the Marcan plan be accepted, it follows that, setting aside the references to the Son of Man in Mark ii. 10 and 28, Jesus had never, previous to the incident at Caesarea Philippi, given Himself out to be the Messiah or been recognised as such. The perception of this fact marks one of the greatest advances in the study of the subject. This result, once accepted, ought necessarily to have suggested two questions : in the first place, why Jesus down to that moment had made a secret of His Messiahship even to His disciples ; in the second place, whether at any time, and, if so, when and how, the people were made acquainted with His Messianic claims. As a fact, however, by the application of that ill-starred psychologising both questions were smothered; that is to say, a sham answer was given to them. It was regarded as self- evident that Jesus had concealed His Messiahship from His disciples for so long in order in the meantime to bring them, without their being aware of it, to a higher spiritual conception of the Messiah; it was regarded as equally self-evident that in the last weeks the Messianic claims of Jesus could no longer be hidden from the people, but that He did not openly avow them, but merely allowed them to be divined, in order to lead up the multitude to the recognition of the higher spiritual character of the office which He claimed for Himself.

These ingenious psychologists never seemed to perceive that there is not a word of all this in Mark; but that they had read it all into some of the most contradictory and inexplicable facts in the Gospels, and had thus created a Messiah who both wished to be Messiah and did not wish it, and who in the end, so far as the people were concerned, both was and was not the Messiah. Thus these writers had only recognised the importance of the scene at Caesarea Philippi, they had not ventured to attack the general problem of Jesus’ attitude in regard to the Messiahship, and had not reflected further on the mutually contradictory facts that Jesus purposed to be the Messiah and yet did not come forward publicly in that character.

Thus they had side-tracked the study of the subject, and based all their hopes of progress on an intensive exegesis of the detail of Mark. They thought they had nothing to do but to occupy a conquered territory, and never suspected that along the whole line they had only won a half victory, never having thought out to the end either the eschatological question or the fundamental historical question of the attitude of Jesus to the Messiahship.

They were not disquieted by the obstinate persistence of the discussion on the eschatological question. They thought it was merely a skirmish with a few unorganised guerrillas ; in reality it was the advance-guard of the army with which Reimarus was threatening their flank, and which under the leadership of Johannes Weiss was to bring them to so dangerous a pass. And while they were endeavouring to avoid this turning movement they fell into the ambush which Bruno Bauer had laid in their rear: Wrede held up the Marcan hypothesis and demanded the pass-word for the theory of the Messianic consciousness and claims of Jesus to which it was acting as convoy.

The eschatological and the literary school, finding themselves thus opposed to a common enemy, naturally formed an alliance. The object of their combined attack was not the Marcan outline of the life of Jesus, which, in fact, they both accept, but the modern “psychological” method of reading between the lines of the Marcan narrative. Under the cross fire of these allies that idea of development which had been the strongest entrenchment of the liberal critical Lives of Jesus, and which they had been desperately endeavouring to strengthen down to the very last, was finally blown to atoms.

But the striking thing about these liberal critical Lives of Jesus was that they unconsciously prepared the way for a deeper historical view which could not have been reached apart from them. A deeper understanding of a subject is only brought to pass when a theory is carried to its utmost limit and finally proves its own inadequacy.

There is this in common between rationalism and the liberal critical method, that each had followed out a theory to its ultimate consequences. The liberal critical school had carried to its limit the explanation of the connexion of the actions of Jesus, and of the events of His life, by a “natural” psychology; and the conclusions to which they had been driven had prepared the way for the recognition that the natural psychology is not here the historical psychology, but that the latter must be deduced from certain historical data. Thus through the meritorious and magnificently sincere work of the liberal critical school the a priori “ natural ” psychology gave way to the eschatological. That is the net result, from the historical point of view, of the study of the life of Jesus in the post-Straussian period.

By Albert Schweitzer in "The Quest of the Historical Jesus" (translated by W. Montgomery), New York, USA, originally published in 1911, excerpts chapter XIV. Adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.

TRASFORMAZIONE DELL'AGRICOLTURA A PARTIRE DAL XIII SECOLO

$
0
0

Crescita della popolazione

A partire dalla metà del X secolo, la popolazione dell'Europa occidentale, finalmente liberata dai saccheggi dei Saraceni, dei Normanni e dei Magiari, inaugura un movimento ascensionale che è impossibile valutare con precisione, ma i cui risultati si constatano chiaramente nel corso del secolo successivo. Indiscutibilmente, l'organizzazione dominicale comincia a non essere più adatta all'eccedenza delle nascite sui decessi. Una crescente quantità di individui, costretti ad abbandonare i mansi paterni, deve cercarsi nuove risorse. Soprattutto la piccola nobiltà, i cui feudi passano solo ai primogeniti dei loro proprietari, trabocca di figli cadetti. Come è noto, fra costoro sono stati assoldati gli avventurieri normanni che hanno conquistato il sud dell'Italia, che hanno seguito il duca Guglielmo in Inghilterra e che hanno fornito gran parte dei soldati alla prima crociata.

L'immigrazione dalle campagne verso le nascenti città e la costituzione di una nuova classe di mercanti e di artigiani, che ci si rivela all'incirca nella stessa epoca, sarebbero incomprensibili senza un aumento considerevole del numero degli abitanti. Questo aumento è ancor più significativo a partire dal XII secolo, e continuerà senza interruzioni sino alla fine del XIII secolo.

Da tutto questo traggono origine due fenomeni essenziali: da una parte, il popolamento più intenso delle regioni d'Europa più anticamente abitate, dall'altra, la colonizzazione dei paesi slavi situati sulla riva destra dell'Elba e della Saale da parte di emigrati tedeschi. Infine, di pari passo con la crescente densità della popolazione e con la sua espansione verso altre regioni, si attua una profonda trasformazione della sua situazione economica e della sua condizione giuridica. Più o meno rapidamente, secondo i paesi, ha inizio un'evoluzione che, malgrado la varietà dei casi particolari, presenta nondimeno un comune orientamento in tutto l'Occidente.

I feudi cistercensi

Si è visto in precedenza che l'organizzazione patriarcale dei latifondi era completamente estranea all'idea di profitto. Il suo funzionamento aveva come unico scopo il sostentamento del signore e della sua gente. Retta dalla consuetudine, che fissava immutabilmente diritti e obblighi di ciascuno, questa organizzazione era incapace di adattarsi alle nuove circostanze che si imponevano alla società.

Non c'è alcun esempio di feudatari che prendano l'iniziativa per istituire un legame tra il vecchio ordinamento e le trasformazioni ambientali. È del tutto palese che queste trasformazioni li sconcertano. Essi si lasciano trascinare dagli avvenimenti senza cercare di approfittare dei vantaggi che l'enorme capitale fondiario di cui dispongono potrebbe assicurare loro. È evidente che non dai signori, ma dai loro uomini hanno avuto origine i mutamenti che, già a partire dalla prima metà del XII secolo, rivelano nei paesi più avanzati la decadenza del sistema signorile. Tuttavia, ciò è vero soltanto per gli antichi feudi dell'aristocrazia laica, dei vescovi e dei monasteri benedettini fondati secondo i princìpi che avevano dominato durante l'epoca carolingia. Le abbazie cistercensi fondate nell'XI secolo, vale a dire in un'epoca in cui cominciano a manifestarsi i primi sintomi di rottura dell'equilibrio tradizionale, mostrano in compenso un'amministrazione economica di un genere fino ad allora sconosciuto. Poiché nel periodo in cui queste abbazie fecero la loro comparsa tutte le terre coltivate erano già occupate, esse si insediarono quasi sempre in terreni incolti e deserti, in mezzo ai boschi, alle brughiere e alle paludi. I loro benefattori furono prodighi nel cedere loro queste lande desolate, di cui i loro possedimenti abbondavano, e che d'altronde consentivano ai monaci di vivere del lavoro delle loro mani, come prevedeva la loro regola. A differenza dei monasteri benedettini, che in linea di massima erano stati colmati di terre coltivate e già messe a frutto, i cistercensi si dedicarono fin dalle loro origini al dissodamento. Del resto, presero con sé dei frati laici, o frati conversi, che li aiutavano in questo compito gravoso, e ai quali fu affidata la coltura delle grandi fattorie o grange, che costituiscono la novità della loro economia agricola. Queste grange comprendevano una superficie notevole, solitamente di due o trecento ettari; tale area, anziché essere suddivisa in mansi, era coltivata dai conversi sotto la vigilanza di un monaco (grangia-rius), oppure da uomini venuti da fuori e impiegati come braccianti agricoli.

La servitù, che fino ad allora era stata la condizione normale dei contadini, non esiste quasi sulle terre cistercensi. Non vi sono più tracce del lavoro per corvé, né della pesante e maldestra sorveglianza dei villici di nomina ereditaria. Nulla è più lontano dalle «riserve» degli antichi feudi delle belle fattorie dell'ordine di Citeaux, con la loro amministrazione centralizzata, la loro configurazione compatta, il loro sfruttamento razionale. Alle «terre nuove» che i monasteri coltivano fa dunque da contraltare la novità dell'organizzazione economica. Ci si trova qui in presenza di un sistema che ha saputo trarre profitto con grande acume dalla crescita della popolazione. Ha fatto ricorso a questa eccedenza di lavoratori che l'antica ripartizione delle terre non permetteva di occupare. Fra questi ultimi ha certamente reclutato i suoi frati conversi, il cui numero non cessa di crescere fino alla seconda metà del XIII secolo. L'abbazia di Dunes ne contava trentasei attorno al 1150 e duecentoquarantotto cento anni dopo. E, accanto ai conversi, si sviluppa in proporzioni analoghe la partecipazione del lavoro libero fornito dagli «ospiti».2

Gli «ospiti»

Il termine «ospite» (hospes), che appare sempre più frequentemente a partire dal XII secolo, è del tutto peculiare dell'innovazione che si compie allora in seno alla classe rurale. Come indica il nome stesso, per ospite bisogna intendere un nuovo venuto, un forestiero. Si tratta insomma di una specie di colono, di un immigrato in cerca di nuove terre da coltivare. Da dove proviene? Indubbiamente, sia dalla massa di quelle creature erranti che nella medesima epoca ha fornito - come si è visto in precedenza, i primi mercanti e i primi artigiani delle città, sia dalla popolazione dominicale, alla cui condizione di servitù si è sottratto. Infatti, la normale condizione dell'ospite è la libertà. Con ogni probabilità, costui è quasi sempre figlio di genitori e a sfuggire così alle persecuzioni del suo signore, chi potrebbe identificare la sua primitiva condizione giuridica? Dato che nessuno rivendica più la sua persona, egli ormai dipende soltanto da se stesso.

 I primi dissodamenti

A questi stranieri, le terre vacanti si offrono sovrabbondanti. Immense «solitudini», foreste, brughiere, paludi, restano infatti al di fuori della proprietà privata e dipendono solo dal potere giudiziario dei principi del luogo. Per stabilirvisi, basta una semplice autorizzazione. Perché mai rifiutarla, dal momento che i nuovi arrivati non ledono alcun diritto anteriore? Tutto concorre a indicare che, in molti casi, costoro si sono messi spontaneamente a dissodare, a debbiare e a prosciugare queste lande alla maniera dei coloni nei paesi nuovi. Fin dall'inizio del XII secolo, per esempio, immigrati di condizione libera si sono insediati nei vasti spazi della «foresta di Theux», che ricadeva sotto la giurisdizione del principe vescovo di Liegi, senza esservi stati chiamati da quest'ultimo. Prima di loro nessuno si era ancora inoltrato in quei deserti. È talmente certo che il popolamento di quella zona si deve all'opera di pionieri liberi che, sino alla fine dell'Ancien Régime, la servitù è rimasta sconosciuta in questa contrada, dove si è perpetuata la loro discendenza.

Le città nuove

Ovviamente, questo primitivo sistema di occupazione non poteva durare a lungo. I proprietari di tutte le terre vergini che esistevano al di fuori dei communia signorili non tardarono ad approfittare del vantaggio che offriva loro il costante aumento della manodopera disponibile. A quei feudatari non poteva non prospettarsi l'idea semplicissima di attirare in quelle terre nuovi ospiti e di farli insediare in qualità di tributari. Essi impiegarono insomma, mutatis mutandis, il metodo di popolamento di cui il Far West americano ha fornito tanti esempi nel corso del XIX secolo. Effettivamente, la somiglianza delle «città nuove» dell'XI e del XII secolo con le towns progettate in anticipo dagli imprenditori americani lungo una linea ferroviaria è sorprendente fin nei dettagli. In entrambi i casi, si cerca di attirare l'immigrato con le condizioni materiali e personali più favorevoli, e al tempo stesso si ricorre alla pubblicità per allettarli. La carta della città nuova da creare è promulgata in tutto il paese, così come ai nostri giorni la stampa pubblica i più mirabolanti manifesti sull'avvenire, sulle risorse e sul benessere della town in formazione.

Il termine «città nuova» non è meno significativo di quello degli «ospiti» ai quali essa è destinata. Indica chiaramente che questa città è fatta per dei nuovi venuti, per dei forestieri, per degli immigrati, insomma per dei coloni. Sotto questo aspetto, il contrasto con il feudo è quanto mai evidente. Ciò è tanto più notevole in quanto quasi sempre il fondatore della città nuova è proprietario di una o più signorie feudali. Ne conosce dunque l'organizzazione, eppure si astiene accuratamente dal riproporla. Per quale motivo, se non perché la considera inadeguata a rispondere ai desideri e ai bisogni degli uomini che si propone di attirare? In nessuna regione si osserva il minimo contatto tra i vecchi feudi e le giovani città nuove, né il minimo sforzo per collegare queste ultime alle curtes dei primi o per sottometterle alla giurisdizione dei villici. In realtà, non c'è rapporto di filiazione fra queste due entità. Sono due mondi distinti.

Dal punto di vista agricolo, ciò che caratterizza le città nuove è innanzitutto il lavoro libero. Le loro carte di fondazione, il cui numero è così cospicuo dall'inizio del XII secolo alla fine del XIII, suscitano ovunque la medesima impressione. La servitù personale vi è completamente ignorata. Per giunta, i servi che vi affluiranno dall'esterno saranno affrancati dopo un anno e un giorno di residenza, benché il fondatore esenti talvolta da questa regola i servi dei propri possedimenti, temendo di assistere allo spopolamento di questi ultimi a favore della città nuova. Lo stesso avviene per le corvé. Le corvé, d'altronde, servono alla coltura della riserva signorile, e nel nuovo sito non esiste più una siffatta riserva. Tutto il suolo è ricoperto dagli appezzamenti dei contadini e ogni contadino concentra tutto il suo lavoro sulla propria terra. Tutt'al più, alla popolazione può essere qua e là imposta qualche prestazione collettiva di lavoro, come per esempio, nella carta di Lorris (1155), l'obbligo di trasportare a Orléans, una volta all'anno, il vino del re.

Quanto ai vecchi diritti dominicali di manomorta, di prima scelta, di maritaggio, naturalmente non se ne parla più. Sopravvive la «taglia», così come l'obbligo del servizio militare, ma questi oneri hanno ormai assunto un carattere pubblico, e d'altronde il prelievo della prima e l'assolvimento del secondo sono limitati e regolamentati. Invece, non è scomparso il diritto di «banno» relativo al torchio o al mulino, ma non è certo un diritto che alteri la condizione delle persone, né il suo esercizio può essere considerato uno sfruttamento. Chi mai avrebbe potuto costruire queste indispensabili attrezzature, se non il signore?

A questo punto, è importante osservare che il contadino della città nuova, se da una parte si contrappone al contadino feudale, dall'altra si avvicina al borghese. Gli statuti che lo governano sono direttamente influenzati dal diritto urbano, al punto che l'appellativo di borghese è dato assai frequentemente agli abitanti delle città nuove. Seguendo l'esempio dei borghesi, essi hanno in effetti ricevuto un'autonomia amministrativa commisurata ai loro bisogni. Il sindaco cui fanno capo non ha più nulla del carattere dei villici preposti ai possedimenti feudali; è il custode degli interessi del villaggio, e spesso, come nelle numerose città nuove affrancate grazie alla legge di Beau-mont-en-Argonne (1182), i contadini intervengono nella sua nomina. Peraltro, sempre secondo il modello urbano, le città nuove sono dotate ciascuna di uno scabinato speciale, organo del loro diritto e tribunale dei loro abitanti. Così, la nuova classe rurale ha finito per beneficiare dei progressi precedenti della borghesia.

Non è affatto vero, come si è talvolta creduto, che le città siano sorte dai villaggi; al contrario, i villaggi liberi sono stati dotati del diritto municipale nella misura in cui era applicabile nel loro contesto. È anzi curioso constatare che nella maggior parte dei casi sono state le grandi città, e non le città di successiva formazione e semirurali, a diffondere il loro diritto nelle campagne. Nel Brabante, per esempio, i duchi hanno utilizzato il diritto di Lovanio nelle carte concesse nel 1160 a Baisy, nel 1216 a Dongelberg, nel 1222 a Wavre, nel 1228 a Courrières, nel 1251 a Merchtem. Alcune carte delle città nuove si sono rivelate nella pratica così eccellenti da conoscere una straordinaria diffusione. Quella di Lorris, a partire dal 1155, è stata conferita a 83 località del Gàtinais e dell'Orleanese; quella di Beaumont, a cominciare dal 1182, a più di 500 villaggi e borghi della Champagne, della Borgogna e del Lussemburgo, quella di Prisches (1158) a una quantità di città nuove dell'Hainault e del Vermandois. Similmente, quella di Breteuil in Normandia si è diffusa largamente, nel corso del XII secolo, in Inghilterra, nel Galles e perfino in Irlanda.

Evitiamo tuttavia di spingerci troppo avanti in questo paragone tra il contadino delle città nuove e il borghese delle città vere e proprie. La libertà personale del primo trova infatti un limite nei diritti che il proprietario conserva ancora sulla terra del villaggio. L'ospite, in realtà, ne può godere in via ereditaria solo mediante il pagamento di un censo, ma la terra continua ad appartenere al signore, e dalla giurisdizione signorile dipendono tutte le questioni concernenti i terreni. Si potrebbe dire, con esattezza, che nelle città nuove la piccola coltura coincide con la grande proprietà che costituisce il substrato giuridico dell'edificio fondiario. Se non determina più la condizione degli uomini, continua a determinare quella della terra. Indubbiamente, a lungo andare il possesso del contadino si affermerà al punto di apparire esso stesso un'autentica proprietà gravata di un semplice diritto ricognitivo a profitto del signore. Resta comunque vero che questa proprietà dovrà attendere la fine dell'Ancien Régime per sbarazzarsi completamente dei legami che la ostacolano.

Le città nuove sono soltanto una delle manifestazioni del grande lavoro di dissodamento che dalla fine dell'XI secolo ha trasformato il suolo dell'Europa. Per di più, con tutti i caratteri finora esposti, se ne trovano solo nel nord della Francia, tra la Loira e la Mosa. A sud della Loira, possono essere paragonate alle bastides, come queste dovute all'iniziativa dei principi o dei grandi feudatari. In Spagna, le poblaciones delle regioni riconquistate dai cristiani ai Musulmani presentano il carattere alquanto diverso di colonizzazioni di confini militari. Quanto all'Italia, tutto fa pensare che i progressi dell'agricoltura vi si siano compiuti soprattutto grazie all'aumento del numero degli abitanti nei vecchi ambiti agricoli risalenti all'antichità, di cui gli uomini riprendono possesso alla fine delle devastazioni saracene e delle guerre intestine del X secolo. Tuttavia, al di là delle sfumature locali, il fenomeno generale è ovunque lo stesso. Su tutta la superficie dell'ex Impero carolingio, la popolazione, cresciuta in densità, moltiplica il numero dei centri abitati, da cui il lavoro libero si spinge energicamente attraverso lande desolate alla conquista di nuovi campi da coltivare.

Lavori di arginamento

Nei Paesi Bassi, il lavoro libero intraprende contemporaneamente la lotta contro le acque del mare e dei fiumi. Il sovrappopolamento, che qui si manifesta con particolare evidenza, è stato senza alcun dubbio la causa efficiente delle prime opere di prosciugamento. I documenti ci consentono di affermare che nel corso dell'XI secolo la contea di Fiandra stenta ad assicurare il sostentamento dei suoi abitanti. Sappiamo, in effetti, che nel 1066 i Fiamminghi si arruolarono in gran numero nell'esercito di Guglielmo il Conquistatore e, a spedizione compiuta, rimasero in Inghilterra dove, per circa un secolo, continuarono a raggiungerli gruppi di loro compatrioti.

Un po' più tardi, il paese fornisce alla prima crociata uno dei suoi eserciti più numerosi. Sempre nella Fiandra i principi vicini reclutano quei mercenari che, sotto il nome di geldungi, di «coterelli», di «brabantini», svolgeranno nella storia militare dell'XI e del XII secolo la stessa funzione che gli Svizzeri ebbero in quella del XVI secolo.3 In conclusione, la crescita così straordinariamente rapida delle città fiamminghe in quella stessa epoca presuppone per forza di cose un afflusso significativo della popolazione rurale verso i centri urbani. La stessa necessità di trovare nuovi mezzi di sussistenza deve aver provocato i più antichi lavori di arginamento. I conti di Fiandra intervennero assai presto per incoraggiarli e sostenerli. Anche le zone paludose (meersen, bfoeken) e le terre alluvionali erano sotto il potere del principe, il quale non poteva non vedere di buon occhio che qualcuno le rendesse coltivabili. Sotto Baldovino v (1035-1067), i progressi compiuti erano ormai di tale rilievo da indurre l'arcivescovo di Reims a congratularsi con il conte per aver saputo trasformare regioni fino ad allora improduttive in terre fertili dove pascolavano numerose le greggi. Da quel momento, tutta la regione marittima è disseminata di «stalle» e di «ovili» (vaccariae, bercariae) e, alla fine del secolo, i loro proventi sono già abbastanza considerevoli da essere oggetto di una vera e propria contabilità affidata a «notai».

Tutto ciò basta a dimostrare che i conti non introdussero l'organizzazione dominicale nelle «terre nuove» della Fiandra marittima. Gli spazi da prosciugare o da arginare furono ceduti, come era avvenuto per i terreni all'interno del paese, agli «ospiti» che andarono a stabilirvisi. Il loro stato, ancora una volta come nelle città nuove, fu quello di uomini liberi, obbligati semplicemente al pagamento di canoni in denaro o in natura. Ma le particolari condizioni che la lotta contro il mare esigeva imposero a questi uomini una collaborazione assai più stretta di quella dei contadini della terraferma. Benché le associazioni di wateringues, vale a dire i raggruppamenti obbligatori costituiti per la regolamentazione del regime delle acque e la manutenzione delle dighe nell'ambito di uno stesso distretto marittimo, non appaiano ancora nei testi delle origini, non c'è dubbio che esse siano esistite fin dall'inizio. Nel XII secolo troviamo un po' ovunque, nell'estuario della Schelda e lungo le coste del Mare del Nord, i polders, termine che sta a indicare le terre alluvionali arginate e definitivamente strappate al mare. In quella stessa epoca, le abbazie hanno seguito l'esempio del conte e si sono energicamente dedicate al prosciugamento delle acque nelle zone paludose dei loro possedimenti. Fra esse, quelle dell'ordine cistercense si distinguono in prima fila. Nel solo territorio di Hulst, attorno alla metà del XIII secolo, l'abbazia di Dunes possedeva 5000 misure di terra arginata e 2400 di terra non arginata (rispettivamente circa 2200 e 1100 ettari).

Coloni fiamminghi in Germania

A nord della Fiandra, le contee di Zelanda e d'Olanda davano prova della medesima attività. In mancanza di documenti, non possiamo conoscerne i particolari. Ma i risultati ottenuti e la fama acquisita non lasciano dubbi sui loro progressi. Infatti, la notorietà degli abitanti dei Paesi Bassi come costruttori di dighe era tale che i principi tedeschi li indussero, dall'inizio del XII secolo, a bonificare le rive dell'Elba inferiore; da qui essi non tardarono a penetrare nel Brandeburgo e nel Meclemburgo, dove la configurazione del suolo conserva in parte ancora ai nostri giorni le tracce delle loro opere. I principi che li avevano chiamati li lasciarono naturalmente in possesso della libertà personale e cedettero loro la terra a condizioni analoghe a quelle in vigore nella loro patria. Sotto il nome di flämisches Rechi si designò il diritto che quei fiamminghi portarono con sé e che rivelò alla Germania l'esistenza della classe di contadini liberi che costoro rappresentavano con tanta energia. A partire da quell'epoca, la concessione del flämisches Rechi equivalse, per la popolazione rurale, all'affrancamento.

La colonizzazione tedesca al di là dell'Elba

Coloni fiamminghi penetrarono anche in Turingia, in Sassonia, nella Lusazia e fino in Boemia. Essi possono essere dunque considerati i precursori della possente espansione coloniale che la Germania diresse verso i territori situati sulla riva destra dell'Elba e della Saale. I duchi di Sassonia e i margravi di Brandeburgo, scacciando e massacrando la popolazione slava di quelle regioni, le aprirono all'occupazione tedesca. Del resto, è sicuro che questa occupazione non avrebbe potuto assumere né l'estensione né il vigore che la caratterizzarono se, fin da quell'epoca, il suolo della madre patria non fosse stato troppo angusto per i suoi abitanti. Dalla Sassonia e dalla Turingia partirono i contadini che si stabilirono tra l'Elba e la Saale; presto li seguirono gli abitanti della Westfalia e insieme a loro si riversarono nel Meclemburgo, nel Brandeburgo e nella Lusazia. Già alla fine del XII secolo, il Meclemburgo era completamente colonizzato; il Brandeburgo lo fu nel secolo successivo. Toccò poi all'Ordine teutonico imprimere con le armi, dopo il 1230, una nuova spinta all'avanzata tedesca nella Prussia orientale, nella Livonia e nella Lettonia, portandone la punta estrema fino al golfo di Finlandia. Intanto, Bavari e Renani avanzavano a loro volta verso la Boemia, la Moravia, la Slesia, il Tirolo, fino ai confini dell'Ungheria, sovrapponendosi o giustapponendosi agli antichi abitanti slavi di quelle contrade.

Il movimento fu diretto con un'abilità pari all'energia profusa. I principi dividevano le terre conquistate fra locatores, veri e propri funzionari colonizzatori incaricati di guidare gli uomini e di ripartire fra loro le terre. I monasteri cistercensi ebbero vaste donazioni in questi spazi sottratti ai «barbari» e vi insediarono subito le loro fattorie e le loro grange. La condizione degli abitanti fu pressappoco identica a quella che, nel nord della Francia, caratterizzava gli «ospiti» delle città nuove. Gli immigrati della Germania coloniale non erano forse loro stessi, anzi, soprattutto loro degli ospiti su quel suolo straniero, dove si sostituivano agli Slavi? Lo ricevettero a titolo ereditario, mediante un modico censo, e furono gratificati della libertà personale, del resto indispensabile in ogni terra di colonizzazione. Così, la nuova Germania non si contrappose alla vecchia Germania solo per la ripartizione della terra, ma anche per la condizione dei suoi abitanti.

Influenza delle città sulla situazione delle campagne

 La profonda trasformazione delle classi rurali nel corso del XII e del XIII secolo non fu conseguenza soltanto della crescente densità della popolazione. Essa fu dovuta in gran parte anche alla rinascita del commercio e alla fioritura delle città. L'antica organizzazione feudale, fatta per un'epoca in cui l'assenza di sbocchi commerciali riduceva i prodotti della terra al consumo locale, era destinata necessariamente a crollare quando mercati permanenti avessero assicurato loro uno smercio regolare. Fu proprio ciò che accadde dal giorno in cui le città cominciarono, per così dire, a risucchiare la produzione delle campagne che garantiva il loro sostentamento. È assolutamente erroneo immaginare i primi agglomerati urbani come centri abitativi semirurali e in grado di provvedere autonomamente alla propria alimentazione. All'inizio, e questo carattere è stato sempre conservato nei centri più importanti, la borghesia appare come una classe di mercanti e di artigiani. Volendo usare un'espressione dei fisiocrati del XVIII secolo, essa è dunque una classe sterile, poiché non produce niente che possa servire direttamente alla propria sopravvivenza materiale. La sua esistenza giornaliera, il suo pane quotidiano dipendono dunque dai contadini che la circondano. Finora essi avevano lavorato i campi e raccolto soltanto per se stessi e per il loro signore. Eccoli invece sollecitati, e sollecitati in misura crescente di pari passo col numero e l'importanza delle città, a produrre un sovrappiù, un'eccedenza per il consumo dei borghesi. Il grano esce dai granai. Entra a sua volta in circolazione, sia che lo stesso contadino lo trasporti verso la città vicina, sia che lo venda sul posto ai mercanti che poi lo commerciano.

I progressi della circolazione monetaria e le loro conseguenze

Insieme alla mobilità dei beni della terra si manifesta necessariamente un progresso della circolazione monetaria nelle campagne. Parlo di progresso e non di inizio, perché sarebbe totalmente errato credere, come fin troppo spesso si è fatto, che i primi secoli del Medioevo, ossia i secoli successivi all'VIII, siano stati un'epoca di scambi in natura e non in denaro. Per essere esatti, quella che viene chiamata economia naturale (Naturalwirtschaft) non vi regnò mai in modo esclusivo. Indubbiamente, i canoni dovuti al signore dalla familia feudale si pagavano generalmente con i prodotti della terra. Non c'è nulla di più spiegabile e di più pratico in un sistema in cui questi canoni avevano come unica destinazione l'alimentazione del proprietario; ma non appena il raccolto diviene oggetto di scambio, il suo prezzo è espresso e quindi pagato in denaro contante. Era così già nel commercio intermittente cui bisognava ricorrere in tempo di carestia. Non risulta che si sia mai barattato il grano di cui si aveva bisogno, invece di comprarlo in moneta contante. Del resto, basta aprire i capitolari carolingi per convincersi dell'uso regolare della moneta nelle transazioni minute effettuate per denaratas nei piccoli mercati del tempo. Invero questo uso fu assai ristretto, ma non certo sconosciuto; l'organizzazione economica dell'epoca lo riduceva a ben poca cosa perché era incompatibile con un'autentica attività commerciale. Ma non appena questa attività ridivenne normale e regolare, la circolazione monetaria, che non era mai scomparsa, progredì di pari passo con i traffici. Le prestazioni in natura non scomparvero - non sono scomparse in nessuna epoca, neanche nella nostra - ma il loro impiego divenne più limitato, perché la loro utilità diminuì, in una società in cui gli scambi andavano moltiplicandosi. Ciò che avvenne non fu dunque la sostituzione di un'economia naturale con un'economia monetaria (Geldwirtschaft), ma molto semplicemente il fatto che il denaro riprese gradualmente la sua funzione di misura dei valori e strumento di scambio.4

La moneta contante aumentò come conseguenza diretta della generalizzazione del suo impiego. La moneta in circolazione nel XII e nel XIII secolo fu infinitamente superiore a quanto fosse stata dal IX alla fine dell'XI secolo. Ne risultò un rialzo dei prezzi che, naturalmente, tornò ovunque a vantaggio dei produttori. Ora, questo aumento dei prezzi andò di pari passo con l'affermarsi di un genere di vita in cui le esigenze si facevano più costose. Ovunque il commercio si diffondesse, faceva nascere il desiderio dei nuovi oggetti di consumo che introduceva.

Come sempre accade, l'aristocrazia volle circondarsi del lusso, o quanto meno delle comodità che si addicevano al suo rango. Se si paragona per esempio l'esistenza di un cavaliere dell'XI secolo a quella di un cavaliere del XII secolo, ci si rende subito conto di quanto siano cresciute in un secolo le spese necessarie per l'alimentazione, l'abbigliamento, la mobilia e soprattutto l'armamento. Passi ancora se le rendite avessero manifestato un incremento analogo. Ma in quella classe di proprietari terrieri che era la nobiltà, queste rendite restavano, in piena crisi di carovita, quelle che erano un tempo. Fissati dalla consuetudine, i canoni che gravavano sulla terra erano immutabili. Non c'è dubbio che i proprietari ricevessero dai loro uomini di che continuare a vivere come si era sempre vissuto fino ad allora, ma non come si auguravano ora di fare. Erano vittime di un sistema economico obsoleto che impediva loro di ricavare dal capitale fondiario una rendita proporzionale al suo valore. La tradizione vietava loro la possibilità e perfino l'idea di aumentare le prestazioni dei tributari o le corvé dei servi, imposte consacrate da un uso secolare e divenute diritti ai quali non si poteva attentare senza provocare le più pericolose ripercussioni economiche e sociali.

Trasformazione dell'organizzazione dominicale

Incapaci tanto di resistere ai loro nuovi bisogni, quanto di trovare il modo di soddisfarli, un gran numero di nobili finirono, prima per indebitarsi, poi per rovinarsi. Alla metà del XIII secolo, Thomas de Campitré riferisce che, nella sua parrocchia natale, il numero dei cavalieri è passato dalla sessantina che erano ancora alla fine del secolo precedente, a uno o due.5 E non c'è dubbio che questo evento locale sia la conferma di un fenomeno generale. La stessa Chiesa non ne uscì indenne. L'arcivescovo di Rouen, Eudes Rigaud, descrive nella stessa epoca la situazione della maggior parte dei piccoli monasteri della sua diocesi come singolarmente difficoltosa.6

Evidentemente, i grandi proprietari laici ed ecclesiastici resistettero meglio alla crisi, anche se a prezzo di una rottura più o meno completa con l'organizzazione dominicale tradizionale. Troppo inveterata per potersi trasformare, essa poteva almeno essere resa meno costosa e permettere in parte un rendimento più remunerativo. Molte sue istituzioni, dopo l'avvento della nuova stagione commerciale, erano divenute inutili superfetazioni. Che bisogno c'era ancora di quegli opifici domestici (ginecei) che, nella sede di ogni «corte» importante, immobilizzavano varie decine di servi per fabbricare, assai peggio degli artigiani della vicina città, le stoffe e gli utensili agricoli?

Si lasciò che scomparissero quasi ovunque, nel corso del XII secolo. E la stessa ragione indusse a vendere i lontani possedimenti che i monasteri senza vigneti possedevano nelle regioni vinicole.7 Dal momento che il vino poteva essere comprato sul mercato, perché continuare a rifornirsene sulle proprie stesse terre, affrontando enormi spese? Quanto alla riserva signorile, era raccomandabile trasformarne in mansi la maggior parte possibile, dato che il suo rendimento mediante corvé era scarsamente produttivo, ed era preferibile distribuire le terre dietro pagamento di canoni in denaro piuttosto che accumularne i raccolti, a rischio di vederli andare in malora o bruciati in qualche incendio.

Evidentemente, l'obiettivo che si propongono gli «amministratori» più astuti è di aumentare il più possibile i loro proventi in denaro contante. Ciò li induce naturalmente alla soppressione o all'attenuazione della servitù. Affrancare un uomo per un controvalore monetario è doppiamente un buon affare: in primo luogo perché il servo paga per la propria libertà, e poi perché, se il signore rinuncia alla proprietà della persona del suo servo, quest'ultimo non rinuncia a coltivare il suo podere. Se lo vuole, potrà conservarlo, ma a condizioni più vantaggiose per il signore; se preferisce andarsene, non ci sarà nulla di più facile che sostituirlo con un altro colono. Tuttavia, per numerosi che siano stati nel corso del XII secolo, gli affrancamenti, come è noto, non hanno posto fine all'esistenza della classe servile. Ma quest'ultima, pur sopravvivendo, ha perduto molto della sua primitiva natura. Ai contadini è stato concesso di riscattare col denaro le corvé e le prestazioni di ogni sorta che gravavano sulla loro persona. Se i vecchi termini di manomorta, prima scelta, diritti matrimoniali8 si sono conservati talvolta sino alla fine dell'Ancien Régime, le realtà che designano si sono alquanto svuotate. Anche se continuano a esistere, le corvé sono ormai servizi piuttosto leggeri a paragone degli obblighi che comportavano un tempo. I signori non sono scomparsi in alcuna regione, ma ovunque il loro dominio sugli uomini si è attenuato; del loro antico carattere patriarcale resta ben poco.

Più l'evoluzione si accentua, più il grande proprietario tende ad avvicinarsi alla situazione di un possidente terriero, di un landlord.

La maggior parte dei contadini affrancati si è trasformata in fittavoli ai quali la terra è stata ceduta mediante un censo quasi sempre ereditario. Tuttavia, nel corso del XIII secolo, nelle regioni più progredite si propaga la forma dell'affitto agricolo a tempo determinato. Molte antiche «corti» sono affittate a ricchi lavoratori. Eudes Rigaud consiglia agli abati della sua diocesi di affittare le loro terre il più spesso possibile.9 Nel Sud, per esempio nel Rossiglione, i fitti fondiari da due a sei anni sono di uso corrente. Oltre a questi ultimi, erano largamente praticati anche i fitti a mezzadria o a compartecipazione.10

Influenza del commercio sulle campagne

È estremamente importante rilevare che l'attenuazione del regime signorile è stata proporzionale allo sviluppo del commercio. In altri termini, è stata molto più rapida nei paesi in cui esistevano grandi città e un traffico intenso, come la Lombardia, la Toscana, il nord della Francia, la Fiandra o le rive del Reno, piuttosto che nella Germania centrale o in Inghilterra. Soltanto alla fine del XIII secolo il sistema dei manors comincia a modificarsi in quest'ultimo paese, mentre già dalla metà del XII i sintomi del suo disfacimento si moltiplicano nella regione fiamminga. Qui, secondo ogni apparenza, il progresso economico ha provocato, in modo più completo che altrove, l'eclissi della servitù. Nel 1335, gli scabini di Ypres potranno scrivere: «ormai non abbiamo più persone di condizione servile, di manomorta o di qualunque altro regime».11

Inoltre, l'influenza crescente del commercio, quanto meno lungo le grandi vie di transito e nell'entroterra dei porti, ha avuto come risultato di dividere le colture in funzione della natura del suolo e del clima. Fintantoché la circolazione era stata nulla o insignificante, ci si era dovuti arrangiare, facendo produrre a ciascun feudo la maggior varietà possibile di cereali, dato che non si era in condizione di procurarseli sul mercato. A partire dal XII secolo, al contrario, il progresso dei commerci promuove una razionalizzazione dell'economia. Ovunque si possa contare sull'esportazione, si chiede a ciascun terreno ciò che è adatto a fornire con la minima spesa o con una qualità superiore. A partire dal XII secolo, le abbazie cistercensi dell'Inghilterra si specializzano nella produzione della lana; il guado, una sorta di indaco del Medioevo, è coltivato nel sud della Francia, in Piccardia, nella Bassa Normandia, in Turingia, in Toscana; la vite si espande, soprattutto a danno del grano, in tutte le regioni dove fornisce un vino generoso, abbondante e di facile trasporto. Salimbene ha giustamente osservato che, se i campagnoli della valle d'Auxerre «non seminano e non mietono», è perché il loro fiume porta fino a Parigi il loro vino, che vi si vende «nobilmente».12 D'altro canto, il Bordolese rappresenta l'esempio certamente più tipico di una regione in cui è stato il commercio a determinare le colture. Attraverso l'estuario della Gironda e La Rochelle, i suoi vini si esportano in quantità sempre crescenti verso le coste dell'Atlantico, in Inghilterra, nel bacino del Mare del Nord e in quello del Baltico. Alla fine del XII secolo, già si diffondono dal porto di Bruges fino a Liegi, dove fanno la concorrenza a quelli del Reno e della Mosella. All'altro capo dell'Europa, la Prussia si consacra da parte sua alla coltura del grano, che i battelli della Hansa trasportano in tutti i porti dell'Europa settentrionale.
  
Progressi nella mobilità della terra

Per concludere, è opportuno constatare che la crescente intensificazione dell'attività economica conferisce alla terra una mobilità che sconvolge la sua tradizionale divisione. La primitiva uguaglianza dei mansi e degli Hufen fa posto a poco a poco a proprietà rurali di estensione variabile, che sono composte da appezzamenti acquisiti da uno stesso colono e costituiscono un'unica coltivazione. Ora che il contadino trova nella vicina città un mercato per le sue derrate, comincia a conoscere il piacere del risparmio, come pure quello del guadagno, e per i risparmi non c'è miglior impiego dell'acquisto di nuova terra. Ma questa terra è ricercata anche dalla borghesia. Essa assicura ai ricchi mercanti delle città il miglior investimento per i proventi del loro commercio. Nel XIII secolo, un gran numero di borghesi comprano terre sottoposte a censo nelle campagne. Nella Fiandra, i capitalisti partecipano alle opere di prosciugamento dei polders. In Italia, i banchieri senesi e fiorentini diventano acquirenti di signorie e, nel XIV secolo, i soci che curano i loro affari in Francia, in Inghilterra e nella Fiandra vi manifestano un appetito di terre non inferiore.

Non dobbiamo tuttavia abbandonarci a un'eccessiva generalizzazione di fenomeni tipici solo delle rare regioni in cui il capitalismo è riuscito a svilupparsi con tutte le conseguenze che gli sono proprie. In realtà, la trasformazione dell'organizzazione agricola e della condizione delle classi rurali è stata assai lenta in tutte le parti dell'Europa che restavano al di fuori delle grandi vie commerciali. Del resto, anche nei luoghi in cui i progressi sono stati più rapidi, l'impronta del passato resta profonda. Le superfici coltivate raggiungono un'estensione a quanto pare sconosciuta a ogni altra epoca anteriore, ma questa estensione è infinitamente lontana da quella che ricopriranno ai nostri giorni. I metodi di coltura sembrano essere rimasti stazionari: l'uso dei «fertilizzanti» era conosciuto a stento in qualche regione privilegiata; ovunque si resta fedeli ai metodi tradizionali di rotazione. Nonostante l'attenuazione della servitù, il contadino resta nondimeno sottomesso alla giurisdizione signorile, alla decima, ai diritti di banno e a tutti gli abusi di potere contro i quali le autorità pubbliche non lo proteggono o lo proteggono insufficientemente. Tutto considerato, la massa rurale, che per numero costituisce la stragrande maggioranza della popolazione, ha ancora una parte puramente passiva. Nella gerarchia sociale non c'è posto per il contadino.

Note

1 Bibliografia: oltre alle opere citate nella nota 1 del presente capitolo, si veda: ED. BONVALOT, Le tiers état d'après la charte de Beaumont et ses filiales (Parigi 1884); M. PROU, Les coutumes de Lorris et leur propagation au XIIe et au XIIIe siècle, in «Nouv. Rev. Hist. du droit francais», t. VIII, 1884; L. VANDERKINDERE, La loi de Prisches, in Mélanges P. Fredericq (Bruxelles 1904); M. BATESON, The laws of Breteuìl, in «English hist. review», t. XV, 1900; F. goblet d'alviella, Histoire des bois et forèts en Belgique, t. I (Bruxelles 1927); A. SCHWAPPACH, Grundriss des Forst und Jagdwesens Deutschlands (Berlino 1892); E. DE BORCHGRAVE, Histoire des colonies belges qui s'établirent en Allemagne pendant le XIIe et le XIIIe siècle («Mém. Acad. de Belgique», Bruxelles 1865); R. SCHOREDER, Die Niederländischen Kolonien im Norddeutschland zur Zeit des Mittelalters (Berlino 1880); E. O. SCHULZE, Niederlandische Sièclelungen in den Marschen an der unteren Weser und Elbe im XII un XIII Jahrhundert (Hannover 1889).

2 Sull'organizzazione dei feudi cistercensi, si veda per esempio Le polyptyque de l'abbaye de Villers (metà del XIII secolo), pubblicato da É. DE MOREAU e J. B. GOETSTOUT, negli Analectes pour servir à l'histoire ecclésiastique de la Belgique, t. XXXII e XXXIII (1906, 1907).

3 H. PIRENNE, Histoire de Belgique, t. i, 5a ed., p. 156. Le regioni romanze vicine alle Fiandre appaiono ancora estremamente popolate nel XII secolo; da esse partì un forte flusso migratorio verso la Slesia che raggiunse anche l'Ungheria. La città di Esztergom a quanto pare deve a loro la sua origine. Nel XII secolo vi si trovava un vicus latinorum abitato soprattutto da gente proveniente dalla Lotaringia e dall'Artois. K. SCHÜNEMANN, Die Entstehung des Städtewesens in Südosteuropa (Breslavia 1929).

4 H. VAN WERVEKE, Monnaie, lingots ou marchandises? Les instruments d'échange aux XIe et XIIe siècles, in «Annales d'histoire économique et sociale», 1932, p. 452.

5 THOMAS DE CAMPITRÉ, Bonum Universale de apibus, n, 49, p. 466 dell'edizione di Douai del 1605.

6 Journal des visites pastorales d'Eudes Rigaud, archevèque de Rouen (1248-1269), a cura di Th. Bonnin (Rouen, 1852).

7 Nel 1264, l'abate di Saint-Trond vende al monastero di Himmerode i suoi vigneti di Pommeren e di Briedel sulla Mosella. Si vedano i testi relativi a questo caso in LAMPRECHT, Deutsches Wirtschaftsleben, t. III, p. 24 sgg.

8 L'autore si riferisce ai diritti che il signore percepiva sui matrimoni che i servi contraevano fuori del feudo o con persona di diversa condizione sociale (n.d.t.)

9 Si veda il suo Journal, già citato nella precedente nota 12. Nel 1268, l'arcivescovo consiglia a un abate «quod quarti melius posset, maneria adfirmam traderet» (p. 607). Lui stesso concede in affitto parecchi possedimenti per due, tre o quattro anni a borghesi o a chierici. Ivi, p. 766 sgg.

10 J.-A. BRUTAILS, Étude sur la condition des populations rurales du Roussillon au MoyenAge, p. 117 sgg.

11 BEUGNOT, Les Olim., t. II, p. 770.

12 M. BLOCH, Les caractères originaux de l'histoire rurale française, cit., p. 23.

Di Henri Pirenne, estratti "Storia Economica e Sociale del Medioevo", 2012, Titolo originale: "Le mouvement économique et social du Xe au XVe siècle", traduzione dalla I edizione del 1993 di Maurizio Grasso, Newton Compton Editori, Roma, capitolo III (2).  Adattato e illustrato per essere pubblicato da Leopoldo Costa.

A CURIOUS HISTORY OF FOOD AND DRINK - THE MIDDLE AGES

$
0
0

circa AD 600

Defining Gluttony. Pope Gregory I, known as Gregory the Great, defined five aspects of gluttony, one of the seven deadly sins, citing biblical passages in justification:

1. Eating before mealtimes: Thy father [Saul] straitly charged the people with an oath, saying, Cursed be the man that eateth any food this day. And the people were faint. Then said Jonathan, My father hath troubled the land: see, I pray you, how mine have been enlightened, because I tasted a little honey.
(1 Samuel 14:28–29)

2. Seeking out delicacies and finer foods to gratify the “vile sense of taste”: And the mixt multitude that was among them fell a lusting: and the children of Israel also wept again, and said, Who shall give us flesh to eat? We remember the fish, which we did eat in Egypt freely; the cucumbers, and the melons, and the leeks, and the onions, and the garlick: But now our soul is dried away: there is nothing at all, beside this manna, before our eyes.
(Numbers 11:4–6)

3. Seeking after sauces and seasoning: The basis of this seems to be that Hophni and Phinehas, the sons of the High Priest Eli, kept all the best bits of meat from the sacrifices for themselves, and were slain for their sins.
(1 Samuel 4:11)

4. Eating too much: Behold, this was the iniquity of thy sister Sodom, pride, fullness of bread, and abundance of idleness was in her and in her daughters, neither did she strengthen the hand of the poor and needy.
(Ezekiel 16:49)

5. Being over-eager to eat, even if it is plain fare, and one does not eat excessively: The biblical exemplar is Esau, who famously sells his birthright to his brother Jacob for “bread and pottage of lentiles.”
(Genesis 25:29–34)

732

A Bull Against Horse. Pope Gregory III issued a papal bull banning the consumption of horse meat, condemning it as “an unclean and execrable act.” His aim was to support St. Boniface’s mission to evangelize Germany, where the pagan tribes had apparently eaten horse as part of ceremonies associated with the worship of Odin.

The Norse inhabitants of Iceland also had a penchant for horse meat, and for this reason resisted conversion to Christianity until 999, when they gained a special dispensation from the Church to continue the dietary practice.

circa 800

On the Protective Quality of Garlic. Anglo-Saxon herbals advised a mixture of garlic, bitter herbs, leeks, fennel, butter, and mutton fat as a surefire way of protecting oneself against malevolent elves.

An Irish Fighting Feast. The Irish saga Scéla Mucce Meic Dathó (“The Tale of Mac Dathó’s Pig”) describes how at a feast the warriors fall out over who is entitled to the “champion’s portion,” i.e., the best cut of meat:

"Blows fell upon ears until the heap on the floor reached the center of the house and the streams of gore reached the entrances. The hosts broke through the doors, then, and a good drinking bout broke out in the courtyard, with everyone striking his neighbor".

circa 850

Kaldi and the Coffee Beans. According to legend, an Arabian goatherd called Kaldi noticed that his flock became much livelier after they fed on the bright red berries of a certain bush. He tried the berries himself, and the exhilaration he subsequently experienced led him to take the berries to a Muslim holy man. The latter disapproved, however, and threw the berries into the fire—unleashing a wonderful aroma. Anxious to capture this wonder, Kaldi raked the roasted beans from the fire, pounded them into a powder, dissolved them in hot water—and so made the first cup of coffee.

The story of Kaldi did not appear in written form until 1671, however, and the tale is almost certainly apocryphal: the wild coffee plant is native to Ethiopia, and may not have been introduced to Arabia until the fifteenth century. The word itself may derive from the Ethiopian kingdom called Kaffa, which emerged in the late fourteenth century. Arab lexicographers, however, suggest that the Arabic word qahwah (pronounced kahveh by the Turks) originally denoted some kind of wine, and ultimately derived from the verb qahiya, “to have no appetite”—which is certainly one of the effects of a strong influx of caffeine.

857

Polluted Rye. The Annales Xantenses, compiled in Cologne, recorded that in this year “a great plague of swollen blisters consumed the people by a loathsome rot, so that their limbs were loosened and fell off before death.” This is thought to be the first recorded reference to the gangrenous effects of ergotism, also known as St. Anthony’s fire or dancing mania, a condition contracted by eating rye bread (or other cereal products) contaminated with Claviceps purpurea. This fungus produces alkaloids that cause not only gangrene, but also convulsions and hallucinations—one of the alkaloids, ergotamine, has structural similarities with LSD. Outbreaks continued in Europe until the late nineteenth century.

circa 880

Murderous Oxen Banned from Table. A law enacted during the reign of Alfred the Great made it an offense to consume an ox that had gored a person to death. The beast was instead to be executed by stoning.

circa 900

A Riddle. The Anglo-Saxons delighted in the following riddle:

"I am a wonderful creature, bringing joy to women, and useful to those who dwell near me. I harm no citizen except only my destroyer. My site is lofty; I stand in a bed; beneath, somewhere, I am shaggy. Sometimes the very beautiful daughter of a peasant, a courageous woman, ventures to lay hold on me, assaults my red skin, despoils my head, clamps me in a fashion. She who thus confines me, this curly haired woman, soon feels my meeting with her—her eye becomes wet."

The answer is: an onion.

Help for Husbands Bald’s. Leechbook—an Anglo-Saxon herbal—recommends that men troubled by endless female chatter should consume a radish before retiring at night.

1104

The Dunmow Flitch. Lady Juga Bayard established a tradition at Dunmow in Essex, by which any person who knelt down on two sharp stones at the church door and who could swear that for a year and a day he had not been involved in any domestic dispute or wished himself unmarried would be awarded a flitch (side) of bacon. The tradition appears to have persisted for some centuries and is mentioned, for example, in “The Wife of Bath’s Prologue and Tale” in Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales:

The bacon was nat fet for hem, I trowe,
That som men han in Essex at Dunmowe.

The tradition was revived in 1855, since when, in June of every leap year, a flitch of bacon is awarded to any married couple judged by a jury of six local bachelors and six local maidens to have lived in complete content and harmony over the previous year and a day.

* * *

Roast Rat à la Manasollasa

King Somesvara III, who ruled the Western Chalukya empire in southern India from 1126 and 1138, was the author of the Sanskrit classic Manasollasa (“Refresher of the Mind”), a book largely devoted to princely pleasures, especially food. He describes a great range of dishes, from lentil dumplings in spicy yogurt sauce and fatty pork with cardamoms to fried tortoise and roasted rat. Here is his recipe for the latter:

Select a strong black rat, found in the fields and river banks.

Fry it in hot oil holding it by the tail till the hair is removed.

After washing with hot water, cut open the stomach and cook the inner parts with sour mango and salt.

Alternatively, skewer the rat and roast it over red-hot coals.
When the rat is well cooked, sprinkle it with salt, cumin and lentil flour.

* * *

1135

A Surfeit of Lampreys. King Henry I of England died on December 1, at the age of sixty-six or sixty-seven, supposedly of a “surfeit of lampreys” (although it was more likely food poisoning). Henry was in Normandy at the time, and one day, according to the contemporary chronicler Henry of Huntingdon, was so hungry after hunting that he ordered a dish of lampreys. The lamprey, a parasitic jawless fish of unprepossessing appearance, was long regarded as a delicacy. However, according to the doctrine of the humors, it was considered to be dangerously cold and wet (even more so than other fish), so had to be killed by being immersed in wine, and was then roasted with warming herbs and spices. Henry’s own physician had warned him against them, but the king ignored his advice, and at once suffered “a most destructive humor” accompanied by “a sudden and severe convulsion.” He died shortly afterward, and his corpse was sewn into a bull’s hide before being returned to England, where he was buried at Reading Abbey.

Despite this warning tale, lampreys continued to be prized in England until the nineteenth century, and are still eaten in the Loire region of France and (hot and smoked) in Finland. In 1633, the diarist Samuel Pepys celebrated the anniversary of the removal of a kidney stone—a painful operation from which he was lucky to survive—with a dish to which he was particularly partial: lamprey pie.

* * *

Sauce Pour Lamprey

The following recipe for lamprey comes from A Noble Boke of Cokery, a manuscript from the mid-fifteenth century.

Take a quick [living] lamprey, and let him bleed at the navel, and let him bleed in an earthen pot;

And scald him with hay, and wash him clean, and put him [on a spit]; and set the vessel with the blood under the lamprey while he roasteth, and keep the liquor that droppeth out of him;

And then take onions, and myce [dice] them small, And put them in a vessel with wine or water, And let them parboil right well; And then take away the water, and put them in a fair vessel;

And then take powder of canell [cinnamon or cassia] and wine, And draw them through a strainer, and cast [them to] the onions, and set over the fire, and let them boil;

And cast a little vinegar and parsley thereto, and a little pepper; and then take the blood and the dropping of the lamprey, and cast thereto [and] let boil together till it be a little thick, and cast thereto powder ginger, vinegar, salt, and a little saffron;

And when the lamprey is roasted enough, lay him in a fair charger, and cast all the sauce upon him, and so serve him forth.

* * *

circa 1150

An Unfortunate Side Effect. The physicians at the renowned medical school at Salerno in southern Italy realized that garlic was a two-edged sword in the fight against disease. They encapsulated their views in the following couplet:

Since garlic then hath powers to save from death,
Bear with it though it makes unsavory breath.

Seven centuries later, Mrs. Beeton, in The Book of Household Management (1861), dismissed garlic altogether: “The smell of this plant is generally considered offensive, and it is the most acrimonious in its taste of the whole of the alliaceous tribe.”

Peppercorn Rents. During the civil war between Stephen and Matilda, rivals for the throne of England, coinage became so scarce that rents were paid in valuable spices, especially peppercorns, as these could not be debased—unlike silver. By the nineteenth century, the price of pepper had fallen in relative terms and a “peppercorn rent” came to mean a notional rent. The phrase is still sometimes taken literally. For example, in Bermuda, the Masonic Lodge of St. George’s No. 200 has every year since 1816 paid a single peppercorn to the island’s governor, presented on a silver plate, for the rental of the Old State House, which is used as their lodge. Things are a little pricier in England: the Sevenoaks Vine Cricket Club in Kent has to pay two peppercorns every year to the town council for the use of their grounds and pavilion.

1154

Pasta Arrives in Italy. In the Kitab nuzhat al-mushtaq (often translated as “A Diversion for the Man Longing to Travel to Far-Off Places”), the Arab geographer Muhammad al-Idrisi, who lived in Sicily at the court of King Roger II, made the first mention of pasta on Italian soil. It comes in his description of Trabia, a town east of Palermo:

West of Termini there is a delightful settlement called Trabia. Its ever-flowing streams propel a number of mills. Here there are huge buildings in the countryside where they make vast quantities of itriyya, which is exported everywhere: to Calabria, to Muslim and Christian countries. Very many shiploads are sent.

Itriyya is mentioned some two centuries earlier in an Arabic medical text written by a Jewish doctor in what is now Tunisia, and was the word for long, thin strands of dried dough that were cooked by boiling. If the itriyya made in Sicily in al-Idrisi’s time was so widely exported, it must (like modern dried pasta) have been made from durum wheat—“hard” wheat—to enable it to keep well enough to travel. The word itriyya is not in fact Arabic, but rather an Arabic transliteration of a Greek word for some kind of dough-based food cooked by boiling—but whether this might have resembled pasta cannot at this distance be established with even the remotest degree of certainty.

Incidentally, the commonly told story that it was the medieval Venetian traveler Marco Polo who introduced pasta to Italy, in imitation of the noodles he had eaten in China, is just that—a story. However, it was one that proved hard to kill. In 1929, the Macaroni Journal, the organ of the U.S. National Macaroni Manufacturers Association, carried a short tall story called “A Saga of Cathay,” in which a sailor called Spaghetti, who accompanied Marco Polo on his voyage, visits a Chinese village:

His attention was drawn to a native man and woman working over a crude mixing bowl. The woman appeared to be mixing a dough of some kind, particles of which had overflowed the mixing bowl and extended to the ground. The warm, dry air, characteristic of the country, had in a short time hardened these slender strings of dough, and had made them extremely brittle.

Signor Spaghetti observes that these slender strings are delicious once boiled in salted water.

The Macaroni Journal may have been gently pulling its readers’ legs, but in the lavish 1938 Samuel Goldwyn film The Adventures of Marco Polo, the hero, played by Gary Cooper, is entertained by an elderly Chinese philosopher called Chen Tsu, who—in all seriousness—offers him bowls of what he calls spa get. So impressed is Marco Polo that he takes some dried spa get back to Venice. A cuisine is born.

circa 1180

London’s First Fast-food Outlet?. In William FitzStephen’s Descriptio Nobilissimi Civitatis Londoniae (“Description of the Most Noble City of London”), which forms the preface to his biography of his late martyred master, Thomas Beckett, there is a description of a “public cookshop” on the River Thames:

On a daily basis there, depending on the season, can be found fried or boiled foods and dishes, fish large and small, meat—lower quality for the poor, finer cuts for the wealthy—game and fowl (large and small). If friends arrive unexpectedly at the home of some citizen and they, tired and hungry after their journey, prefer not to wait until food may be got in and cooked, or “till servants bring water for hands and bread,” they can in the meantime pay a quick visit to the riverside, where anything they might desire is immediately available. No matter how great the number of soldiers or travelers coming in or going out of the city, at whatever hour of day or night, so that those arriving do not have to go without a meal for too long or those departing leave on empty stomachs, they can choose to detour there and take whatever refreshment each needs. Those with a fancy for delicacies can obtain for themselves the meat of goose, guinea-hen or woodcock—finding what they are after is no great chore, since all the delicacies are set out in front of them. This is an exemplar of a public cookshop that provides a service to a city and is an asset to city life. Hence, as we read in Plato’s Gorgias, cookery is a flattery and imitation of medicine, the fourth of the arts of civic life.

circa 1188

When Is a Bird a Fish?. Giraldus Cambrensis (Gerald of Wales), in his Topographia Hibernica, gave the following account of the barnacle goose:

They are produced from fir timber tossed along the sea, and are at first like gum. Afterward they hang down by their beaks as if they were a seaweed attached to the timber, and are surrounded by shells in order to grow more freely. Having thus in process of time been clothed with a strong coat of feathers, they either fall into the water or fly freely away into the air. They derived their food and growth from the sap of the wood or from the sea, by a secret and most wonderful process of alimentation. I have frequently seen, with my own eyes, more than a thousand of these small bodies of birds, hanging down on the seashore from one piece of timber, enclosed in their shells, and already formed. They do not breed and lay eggs like other birds, nor do they ever hatch any eggs, nor do they seem to build nests in any corner of the earth.

The common medieval belief that barnacle geese developed from the marine crustacean after which they are named meant, somewhat conveniently, that these birds counted as fish, and could therefore be eaten on meat-free fast days. (In much the same way, centuries ago in Venezuela, the Catholic Church issued a dispensation allowing the consumption of the capybara—the world’s largest rodent—during Lent, on the grounds that it must be a fish, as it spent most of its life in water.)

The mystery of the origin of barnacle geese was eventually dispelled when in 1597, sailors from William Barents’s expedition found their nests on the remote islands of Novaya Zemlya, deep inside the Arctic Circle.

circa 1200

Belching at the Ceiling. Around this time Daniel of Beccles wrote his Book of the Civilized Man (Urbanus Magnus Danielis Becclesiensis in Latin), which included a number of words of advice on table manners, such as:

When eating at the table of the wealthy, refrain from garrulousness.

Should you desire to belch, remember first to gaze up at the ceiling.

If you need to clear your nose, do not show others what appears in your hand.

Do not omit to thank your host.

Abstain from mounting your horse in the hall.

And (a relief for those visiting the smallest room in the castle):

It is unseemly to fall upon your enemy while he is voiding his bowels.

The author also believed that it was impolite for guests to urinate in the dining hall—but that it was perfectly permissible for the host to do so. Finally, if while dining at one’s lord’s table, the lord’s wife expresses her desire for carnal knowledge, the best thing to do is to pretend to be ill.

Some Medieval Jests. In the Middle Ages, the cooks in the great castles liked to play jokes on the guests. Live birds were indeed hidden in pies (like the “four-and-twenty blackbirds” of the nursery rhyme), so that when the crust was cut open they would fly out. Then there were mock oranges: balls of saffron-colored rice stuffed with minced meat and mozzarella that the Normans called arancina (from Arabic arangio, meaning “bitter orange”). The Arabs themselves may have learned the joke from the Persians. Another dish that was not quite what it seemed was the cockatrice, the mythical beast that was half snake and half bird, which was re-created by sewing the front end of a chicken to the back end of a suckling pig, the whole thing then being covered in pastry and baked. Perhaps the most belly-splitting jape of all involved presenting one’s guests with slabs of beef straight from the fire, sprinkled with tiny slivers of raw heart—which would writhe around on the hot meat just like maggots.

1274

Concentrating the Mind through the Stomach. Pope Gregory X issued Ubi periculum, which laid out some rules for the conclave of cardinals summoned to elect a new pope. This was prompted by the previous election, in which the squabbling cardinals, meeting at Viterbo, had taken thirty-three months to come to a decision, and this only after the citizens of Viterbo, sick of playing host to the princes of the Church, removed the roof of their residence and supplied them with only bread and water. This had the desired effect, and Gregory was elected in 1271 as the compromise candidate. His own rules for the conclave laid down, among other things, that if the cardinals had not agreed who should be the new pope within three days, they would be allowed no more than two meals a day, each consisting of no more than one dish; and if after a further five days no decision had been made, then the cardinals were to be reduced to bread and water.

In 1353, the bull Licet in constitutione allowed for a supplement of salad, fruit, soup, and a little sausage to be added to the two basic meals, and by the conclave of 1549, things had become very slack, as attested by a letter written on December 5 by the representative of the Gonzaga family, the ruling house of Mantua:

The cardinals are now on the one-dish regimen. The dish consists of a couple of capons, a nice piece of veal, some salami, a nice soup, and anything you want as long as it is boiled. That is in the morning. Then in the evening, you can have anything you want as long as it is roasted, as well as some antipasti, a main course, some salad and a dessert. The more small-minded ones are complaining about the hardship...

Sitting in such comfort, the conclave—split between the supporters of France, the Habsburgs, and the late pope—took from November 29, 1549, to February 7 of the following year to elect Cardinal Giovan Maria del Monte as Pope Julius III. As a younger man, del Monte had allegedly fathered over a hundred illegitimate children, but then, on being admonished by his mother, swore he would thenceforward abjure the company of women and stick to boys. He was as good as his word, and on becoming pope presented a cardinal’s red hat to his seventeen-year-old male lover, a monkey trainer by trade.

It was for Pope Julius III, whose health had been sapped by excessive eating, that the celebrated chef Bartolomeo Scappi created his “royal white tart,” made from provatura cheese, fine sugar, rosewater, cream, and egg whites—plain fare for a sickly pontiff.

1284

The Origin of Tapas. Alfonso X “the Wise,” king of Castile, León, and Galicia died on April 4. Tradition has it that when, at some point during his reign, he became ill, his physician advised him to eat snacks between meals to help soak up the wine that he was constantly imbibing. Feeling the benefit of this regime, Alfonso instituted a law that dictated that tavern-keepers could not serve wine to their customers without also providing them with a little something to eat with each glass. Tapa literally means “lid” or “cover,” and it has been suggested that the original tapas were slices of bread, ham, or chorizo that drinkers in Andalusia placed over their glasses to keep the flies off their sherry.

1290

Avoid Scratching One’s Foul Parts at Table Bearing in mind that at medieval feasts, guests would often help themselves with their fingers from common bowls, Bonvesin de la Riva of Milan gave readers of his Fifty Courtesies at Table the following tips on etiquette (the original was in verse):

Thou must not put either thy fingers into thine ears, or thy hands to thy head. The man who is eating must not be cleaning by scraping with his fingers at any foul part.

Bonvesin also advised against sneezing onto one’s plate, failing to wipe one’s mouth before taking a sip of wine, or sheathing one’s knife (everybody had to bring their own to table) before others had finished eating.

The following century a German writer on table manners gave some further advice:

If it happens that you cannot help scratching, then courteously take a portion of your dress and scratch with that. That is more befitting than that your skin should become soiled.

Another medieval authority on etiquette admonished his readers thus:

Let not thy privy members be laid open to be viewed, It is most shameful and abhorred, detestable and rude.

circa 1300

The Water of Life. The Catalan alchemist, astrologer, and physician Arnaldus de Villa Nova recommended eau de vie—a clear fruit brandy—be taken for medicinal purposes: “Eau de vie prolongs good health, dissipates the humors, rejuvenates the heart and preserves youth.” The clue is in the name: eau de vie is French for “water of life,” the same meaning as the Latin aqua vitae (once applied to any concentrated solution of alcohol), the Scandinavian caraway- or dill-flavored spirit akvavit, and the Gaelic usquebaugh, from which comes the word “whisky.” Medieval physicians recommended moderation, however: in France, the suggested dose was one tablespoon of eau de vie a day.

1312

Gaveston’s Fork. A group of barons seized Piers Gaveston, the Gascon favorite of Edward II of England, and put him to death. Gaveston and Edward may or may not have been lovers, but it was taken as a token of the former’s effeteness that a table fork was found among his possessions after his death. By this time, forks had been used in Italy for at least two centuries (essential for eating pasta), but did not come into general use in England and the rest of northern Europe until the later seventeenth century—the century before, Martin Luther had articulated the suspicion that most northerners felt for such decadent innovations when he supposedly declared “God protect me from forks.” The fork was still very much a novelty to the English traveler Thomas Coryate when he visited Italy, as recorded in Coryate’s Crudities hastily gobbled up in Five Months’ Travels in France, Italy, &c. (1611):

The Italian, and also most strangers that are commorant in Italy, do always at their meals use a little fork, when they cut their meat. For while with their knife which they hold in one hand they cut the meat out of the dish, they fasten their fork, which they hold in their other hand, upon the same dish, so that whatsoever he be that sitting in the company of any others at meal, should unadvisedly touch the dish of meat with his fingers, from which all at the table do cut, he will give occasion of offense unto the company, as having transgressed the laws of good manners...

Coryate himself was credited with introducing the fork to England, and was as a consequence nicknamed Furcifer, Latin for “fork-bearer” (and also “rascal”). At first the English fork only had two tines, but the increasing tendency of English cuisine to smaller and daintier morsels led to the necessity of adding a third tine.

1341

The Boar’s Head Feast. The Queen’s College at Oxford was founded by Robert de Eglesfield, chaplain to Philippa of Hainault, queen consort of Edward III. One of the college’s more celebrated traditions is the annual Boar’s Head Gaudy, a feast held at Christmastime and said by William Henry Husk, in his Songs of the Nativity Being Christmas Carols, Ancient and Modern (1868), to be:

...a commemoration of an act of valor performed by a student of the college, who, while walking in the neighboring forest of Shotover and reading Aristotle, was suddenly attacked by a wild boar. The furious beast came open-mouthed upon the youth, who, however, very courageously, and with a happy presence of mind, thrust the volume he was reading down the boar’s throat, crying, “Græcum est,” [with the compliments of the Greeks] and fairly choked the savage with the sage.

At the Queen’s College feast, a boar’s head is brought into the hall, with a solo singer and choir singing the Boar’s Head Carol. Many other places hold Boar’s Head Feasts at Christmas, a tradition going back to the pagan Norsemen, who would sacrifice a boar to the goddess Freyja at the winter solstice. This is thought to be the origin of the traditional ham that many families still eat alongside their turkey at Christmas.

1346

From Poor Knights to Eggy Bread. After the Battle of Crécy, many English knights who had been captured by the French were obliged to sell their estates to raise the ransom demanded for their release. Returning home in penury, they were given a pension and living quarters at Windsor Castle by Edward III, who established for them a new chivalric order called the Poor Knights of Windsor. By a process that remains obscure, this name also came to be applied to what the Germans call arme Ritter (“poor knights”) and the English call French toast (known as German toast until the First World War, and then patriotically renamed in honor of Britain’s principal ally in the conflict). The earliest recorded use of the English term “poor knights” for French toast dates from 1659 (see below). The French themselves call this pain perdu (“lost bread”), recognizing that it is the best thing to do with “lost” (i.e., stale) bread; while under the British Raj in India it was called hurry-scurry or Bombay pudding.

* * *

A Recipe for Poor Knights

The following recipe for “poor knights” (what we now call French toast or eggy bread) comes from The Compleat Cook, an anonymous work published in 1659:

To make Poor Knights, cut two penny loaves in round slices.

Dip them in half a pint of cream, or fair water, then lay them abroad in a dish, and beat three eggs and grated nutmegs and sugar, beat them with the cream.

Then melt some butter in a frying-pan, and wet the sides of the toast and lay them on the wet side, then pour in the rest upon them, and so fry them.

Serve them in with rosewater, sugar and butter.

* * *

1348

Salmon from the Grave. The word “gravlax” is first mentioned in a record from this year, in the form of a man from Jämtland in central Sweden called Olafauer Gravlax. He presumably made his living by preparing gravlax, a word derived from the Swedish grav, “grave,” and lax, “salmon.” Traditionally, gravlax was made by burying salted salmon in a hole in the ground (the grav), covering it with birch bark and stones and allowing it to ferment for up to a week, so that the flesh was soft enough to eat raw. Today, gravlax is prepared without burial, the salmon being divided into two fillets; one is placed in a dish skin side down, scattered with dill, salt, sugar, and white peppercorns; then the other fillet is placed on top of the first, skin side up, and topped with a weighted board. Every few hours, the fillets are turned and basted in the expressed juices; the gravlax is ready in three days.

1350

Reheated Pies and Plagues of Flies. In London, a bylaw forbade cookshops from charging more than a penny for a rabbit pasty. Other regulations included bans on buying meat more than a day old, and a prohibition on the reheating of pies—a stipulation ignored by Roger, the eponymous cookshop proprietor of Chaucer’s “Cook’s Tale.” In the Prologue to this unfinished story from the Canterbury Tales, the Host berates Roger for serving up reheated Jack-of-Dover (a kind of pie, or possibly a fish):

Now telle on, Roger; looke that it be good,
For many a pastee hastow laten blood,
And many a Jakke of Dovere hastow soold
That hath been twies hoot and twies coold.
Of many a pilgrym hastow Cristes curs,
For of thy percely yet they fare the wors,
That they han eten with thy stubbel goos,
For in thy shoppe is many a flye loos.

[Now tell on, Roger; look that it be good,
For of many a pastry hast thou drawn out the gravy,

And many a Jack of Dover hast thou sold
That has been twice hot and twice cold.
Of many a pilgrim hast thou Christ’s curse,
For of thy parsley yet they fare the worse,
Which they have eaten with thy stubble-fed goose,
For in thy shop is many a fly loose.]


The Parmesan Mountain. In the collection of tales known as The Decameron, the Italian writer Giovanni Boccaccio conjured up a particularly Italianate Land of Plenty:

There is a mountain made entirely of grated Parmesan. Standing at the top of it are people who do nothing else but make macaroni and ravioli, cook them in capon broth, and then throw them down the slopes. The more you take the more you get.

Parmesan cheese was first mentioned in the thirteenth century by a monk in Parma called Adamo Salimbene, and by 1568, a Dominican called Bartolomeo Scappi was declaring in his cookbook that Parmesan was the finest cheese in the world. This was a verdict shared by Samuel Pepys, who, during the Great Fire of London in 1666, buried his Parmesan cheese together with his wine and other valuables in order to preserve them from the flames. The cheese’s high reputation continues, and a recent survey showed that chunks of Parmesan are the most frequently shoplifted items in Italian supermarkets.

1357

Pardoned for Fasting. In his Book of Days (1862–4), Robert Chambers gives the following account of a remarkable fast:

In Rymer’s Faedera, there is a rescript of King Edward III, having reference to a woman named Cecilia, the wife of John de Rygeway, who had been put up in Nottingham jail for the murder of her husband, and there had remained mute and abstinent from meat and drink for forty days, as had been represented to the king on fully trustworthy testimony; for which reason, moved by piety, and for the glory of God and the Blessed Virgin, to whom the miracle was owing, his grace was pleased to grant the woman a pardon. The order bears date the 25th of April, in the 31st year of the king’s reign, equivalent to AD 1357.

circa 1390

Swan Served in Its Own Blood. “A fat swan loved he best of any roost.” So wrote Chaucer of his Monk in the Canterbury Tales, indicating that this man of God liked his luxuries—for swan was the most expensive bird to eat in the Middle Ages. The preferred mode of serving swan was with a black sauce made from the bird’s own finely chopped guts cooked in its blood. To reduce the “fishy” taste of the meat, the birds were sometimes fed with oats prior to slaughter.

* * *

A Coq d’Or on a Gilded Pig

The French royal cook Guillaume Tirel (circa 1310–95), known as Taillevent, is credited with compiling a collection of recipes called Le Viandier, the earliest manuscript of which dates from 1395. Presentation and dramatic impact were often as important as taste, as attested by the following “gilded dish,” a “subtlety” intended for a feast day.

Helmeted Cocks

Roast some pigs, and poultry such as cocks and old hens.

When the pig is roasted on the one hand, and the chicken on the other, stuff the chicken (without skinning it, if you wish), and [glaze] it with beaten egg batter.

When it is glazed, set it riding on the pig with a helm of glued paper, and with a lance fixed at the breast of the chicken.

Cover them with gold or silver leaf for the lords, or with white, red or green tin leaf [for those of lower rank].

By Ian Crofton in "A Curious History of Food and Drink", Quercus, New York/London, 2014, excerpts chapter 3. Adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.

* * *
Viewing all 3442 articles
Browse latest View live