Head to this rugged region in the far south of Spain and you’ll find kitchens peppered with Moorish influences and robust, seasonal cooking that shines in dishes such as bean, fennel and pork stew, and chilled almond soup.
The rugged foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains, south-east of Granada, the Alpujarras exert a semi-legendary pull on many Andalucians, and indeed many other Spanish people. It’s a romantic, whimsical place, known to be remote, rural and – that most Spanish of things – quixotic.
The region is blessed with extremely fertile soils that yield all kinds of ingredients, from almonds to grapes via figs, oranges and, of course, olives. The Moors, whose rule over the Alpujarras lasted for 800 years, introduced almonds, cumin, pomegranates and aubergines to the region, all of which thrived thanks to the many long days of sunshine. The ports, an hour or so away, are part of a thriving fishing industry, and the forests run thick with game and wild herbs – all high-quality raw ingredients that local kitchens make the most of.
A largely unsung hybrid of North African and Spanish influences, la cocina Alpujarreña is as rudimentary as it is delicious. It is not fancy, it is seasonal and robust. What distinguishes it most of all is its relatively straightforward preparation – traditionally much of it would have been done outside in the fields, using portable ingredients and improvised fire-pits (when prepared inside, people used elementary hearths in the corner of a kitchen).
Today, this approach hasn’t much changed. In Berber-like villages, small but resilient communities tend almond and olive terraces, and cultivate immaculate and ancient vegetable patches, while tiny local bars and restaurants serve recipes that have been handed down through generations of farmers.»
FIVE OF THE BEST THINGS TO EAT
1. Puchero de hinojo
The village of Mairena makes this rich bean, fennel and pork stew for the fiesta of San Marcos at the end of April. In the past, groups would make their own, but a smaller population means the village now eats together. Meat is used sparingly and many ingredients are foraged from the hedgerows.
2. Ajo blanco
Not only is this creamy Alpujarran soup – served cold – refreshing on a hot day, it’s also delicious and filling (and, despite its appearance, entirely dairy free). The secret is that the almonds are cracked on the same day so are super fresh. It’s served topped with a borage flower, apple or grapes.
3. Sardinas a la vinagreta
You can’t argue with fresh sardines cooked lightly with lemon and garlic, but this version (sardines cooked in a vinegar and tomato sauce) is a delicious alternative, and a change from frying, which is how we often cook them in the UK.
4. Habas con jamon serrano
This is an ancient recipe in which the saltiness of locally produced jamon serrano and sun-dried tomatoes combines brilliantly with the freshly podded broad beans that grow widely in the area each spring.
5. Higos con almendras y chocolate
A dried fig with a toasted almond stuffed inside it, these are known locally as cohetes (rockets). The local shepherds take them to eat as they walk across the hillsides. To make them extra delicious.
By David and Emma Illsley in "Olive Magazine", UK, September 2017, excerpts pp.99-100. Digitized, adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.